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Rigging Question - How do I get my mill off the shoring blocks?


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I went to look at a cutting torch I found on craigslist and ended up dragging home a Grizzly knee mill instead. I got it unloaded and it is in the position I'd like to set it in. It is currently resting on 1.5" square tubing passing under the fork lift pockets. The tubing is setting on stacks of (3) 2x4s so I could get the pallet jack out from under it.

Now comes the fun part - How do I get it down?

I don't have anything above it to hook my chain fall to..Thanks in advance for any help!!

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i got an idea, sounds a bit out there but maybe it could work.

so start by cuting the wood so its flush with the mil on the front half. then get a few round pipes (heavy duty) and slowly push the mil on the pipes, the mil should roll like its on a conveyor belt. then just move the wood and push it back. its going to take a few guys but iv done somghing like that with a big ass oven at my old job.

 

(would be even better to cut the wood at an angle so you can get the pipe under the mill a little)

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crowbar/leverage is a sweet idea, just get a mate (or perhaps two) to steady it

 

if you've got some more steel and a welder handy could make a stand for it out of the two bits that are already there, which'll facilitate you moving it in future

 

cool pickup, im jealous :( i want a mill baad

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Engine hoist isn't really a safe option I don't think. The mill weighs just at 2000 pounds. I hauled it home in my 620 KC. I removed the head and made two trips. I have a 2 ton chain hoist that I used to put the head back on the column. I don't have a good way to lift it now that it's in place. I'm thinking of using a prybar (long piece of 1.5" square tubing) to lift one side and knock the blocks out. I **think** that will work. Now I just need a helper...

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You could look into renting a couple house or toe jacks. They have the capacity and are designed for a similar type of lifting. There is also a type of lever called a (no kidding) johnson bar that may work, but would need to be used in stages, not all at once. HTH.

 

Mark

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Since have 3 mills in the work shop, I can give you some input. First off you will need lots of blocking( 3/4" plywood) and a long bar and a helper. You need two get rid of that tubing first. Metal to metal contact is not good, if the mill starts to slide on that tubing you will not be able to stop it. Get some new wood blocking under the four corners of the mill, by prying up on the front of the mill, inserting the new blocking . Now do the rear side like the front. Next remove the exsiting tubing and your old blocking. To get the mill on the ground, pry the mill up, then remove one block on the front side (both corners), then do the rear side. Keep repeating the proceedure untill its on the ground. Please be very carefull, take your time, be safe. You need to be respectful of that 2000lbs. If it starts to get away from you, let it go. It might damage the mill, but you can live another day to play with Datsuns. If you need any other help with the mill, in care or operation, just ask.

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Engine hoist isn't really a safe option I don't think. The mill weighs just at 2000 pounds. I hauled it home in my 620 KC. I removed the head and made two trips. I have a 2 ton chain hoist that I used to put the head back on the column. I don't have a good way to lift it now that it's in place. I'm thinking of using a prybar (long piece of 1.5" square tubing) to lift one side and knock the blocks out. I **think** that will work. Now I just need a helper...

So what's wrong with a 2 ton hoist?
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Looks tall enough to tip to the side and lift the other enough to slip the wood out, set down and tip the other way for the other side.

 

Use a floor jack and a length of wood to push up under the table to lift.

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