MicroMachinery Posted January 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 Thanks man. Should be soon :) Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted January 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 I'm running a matchbox I got the plugs that are listed for a 79 200sx(I'm also running a matchbox). Nothing snazzy, NGK BPR5EY-11. Quote Link to comment
bredatto510 Posted January 27, 2011 Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 thats a hotter plug... depending on your compression ratio and octane... it might ping i have an l20b with flattops and im running br7es 's also you could try br5ey-11 so that they wont be projector style as those shoot the flame further...just fyi Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 27, 2011 Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 Most excellent... :thumbup: When you have a sec.....can you measure the length of the drivers MM you used.....Thanks. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted January 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Most excellent... :thumbup: When you have a sec.....can you measure the length of the drivers MM you used.....Thanks. Ok, these are approximations, but they're close: The diagonal length, tip to tip: 5" The base: 3 1/2" The height: 5 1/2" The width: 2" Hmm.. after looking at em.. those don't seem right. The diagonal cut should be the longest one, I would think.. I'll measure again tomorrow. Today I messed around w/ options for the exhaust. I have a short tube header, a long tube header, and a factory cast iron manifold. The long tube header hit the frame, so that was out. Now it's down to the factory manifold and the shorty header; both of which fit very nicely, and both have their perks. -The cast manifold(square port), of course has sturdiness, ease of installation/removal, and good flow going for it. The strikes against it are the weight, and having to come up with a custom flange that opens up into a 2" pipe. -The header is light and I have an exhaust from a 510 that could probably be modified to work on the 720 for now(It's 2 1/4" I believe). That way, I wouldn't have to break the engine with an open exhaust, and I wouldn't have to immediately go shell out the cash for a custom exhaust system. Cons, it's a header, and they're prone to cracking and being a PITA to work with. I was also playing around with my induction systems I could use. Decisions... Decisions... Decisions. :devil: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 (edited) Ok, these are approximations, but they're close: The diagonal length, tip to tip: 5" The base: 3 1/2" The height: 5 1/2" The width: 2" Hmm.. after looking at em.. those don't seem right. The diagonal cut should be the longest one, I would think.. I'll measure again tomorrow. Today I messed around w/ options for the exhaust. I have a short tube header, a long tube header, and a factory cast iron manifold. The long tube header hit the frame, so that was out. Now it's down to the factory manifold and the shorty header; both of which fit very nicely, and both have their perks. -The cast manifold(square port), of course has sturdiness, ease of installation/removal, and good flow going for it. The strikes against it are the weight, and having to come up with a custom flange that opens up into a 2" pipe. -The header is light and I have an exhaust from a 510 that could probably be modified to work on the 720 for now(It's 2 1/4" I believe). That way, I wouldn't have to break the engine with an open exhaust, and I wouldn't have to immediately go shell out the cash for a custom exhaust system. Cons, it's a header, and they're prone to cracking and being a PITA to work with. I was also playing around with my induction systems I could use. Decisions... Thanks....that length sounds like the stock Z22...? Must be nice to have all those options... :) Think you should ship those SUs north.....barter.... :D The 'masses' suggests to break it in with the 32/36...and then I'm not knowing. Ya....on the EM....I just have this.....not sure yet weather it will fit. Edited January 28, 2011 by Sealik Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted January 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 It's not the same as the Z22 mount.. I tried reversing those and using them on the opposite sides.. it's something else. As far as break in goes, I'm definitely gonna break in w/ a 32/36. I'll probably end up trying and possibly dynoing a few different setups. I have the 32/36, 38mm SU's, 46mm SU's, and the Mikunis. Probably won't go with the Mikuni setup long term, because that just wouldn't make sense on a DD work truck. I believe it'll be between the two SU choices I have.. 38's or 46's. I'll look at the results on the Dyno and see what the difference in economy is, and then make my choice. I may throw the Mikunis on just for fun and run em on the Dyno just for shiggles, however :) Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 Any suggestions for a starter on this engine? Tonight was pretty frustrating, as burned through 3 L-series starters along with a gear reduction.. not sure what's going on, but I tested them before I put them in(they worked), installed, would get a crank or two, then just a "CLICK". I pulled them all back out and they're now among the rest of my cores. Pretty bewildered.. I figured I'd be out breaking it in by now. :unsure: Quote Link to comment
SRSANDS Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 I really dont think you startes are frying.........I personally think you have a bad or weak battery. I have had the same issue. Get a new battery and try again really. I have had batterys tested good and still wont crank it. Especially if the timing is not dialed in it works harder to turn the flywheel Quote Link to comment
SRSANDS Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 And Im using the L motor starter. Works just fine Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 try new batt cables with the molded ends, also and make sure to have a good ground. Unless you seen the starter smoke I highly dought that they are bad. unless you wired them backwards. click click click could be a low voltage across the key switch. wire in a hot start relay. so the batter gets full voltage. somebody should have a drawing as I cant post photos on here. or PM you email. Quote Link to comment
sinner720st Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 im using the stock z24 starter, wish i had a gear reduction, my timing is 13* advanced (z24) and if its cold outside the starter will bump up against the ignition, i have to bump it about five times before it passes what i think is the ignition hump. i agree with srsands 100%, your battery may not have enough amps to lend to that starter Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 Ok, I'll check it out.. it should have enough amps, though. I had the battery charger set to 12v/40amp charge while I was doing this. I used the battery out of my 521 and it cranks the 521 over beautifully. :unsure: .. granted that is just an L16 with lower compression.. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 grab one of thos eso called bad starters and put it in the 521, if it works then you know its a wireing,or batter cable issue, Unless You have a matchbox ignition and have a wrong dizzy pedastal for it which makes it seem like its a tooth off. You have to line motor up to TDC and ck the rotor posiistion and see if the star in reluctor lines up pretty close. where you can dial it in by hand *turning the dizzy left or right. Its mention in Jason Grays write up.There wer 2 types of Matchboxes and they had their assigned dizzy pedastal so soemtime people forget the pedastal and grab another later thus rotor will be in between the 1 and 3 plug wire. thus making it fight to start. Or the oil pump spindal is in wrong PS stock starters are fine. The GearReduction units are overrated. for the amount of cost Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Ok. So I went and tested the ground and positive battery cables. and they both ohm'ed out fine. On a hunch, I unhooked the positive battery cable from the starter, and used my jumper cables. It cranked with the key, but the ground cable started to smoke. I used the other half of the jumper cables to piggyback the negative battery cable to engine ground; no smoke, and it cranked fine. So I moseyed down to the parts house and got a new positive and negative battery cable. Beautiful: no smoke, strong cranking. Thank you, gentlemen. You have a matchbox ignition and have a wrong dizzy pedastal for it which makes it seem like its a tooth off. You have to line motor up to TDC and ck the rotor posiistion and see if the star in reluctor lines up pretty close. where you can dial it in by hand *turning the dizzy left or right. Its mention in Jason Grays write up.There wer 2 types of Matchboxes and they had their assigned dizzy pedastal so soemtime people forget the pedastal and grab another later thus rotor will be in between the 1 and 3 plug wire. thus making it fight to start. Now that you point that out, Hainz, I do believe that my matchbox dizzy has the wrong pedestal on it. I was sure that I put the distributor drive at the 11:35 position, as I always do, but it seems like I couldn't get enough advance out of the given adjustment slots. So I took the larger of the two adjusting bolts out, and slid the distributor around until I was getting 12 BTDC, and locked it down with a set of needle-nose vice grips. I took it for the break-in drive, and it ran like a champ! Lots of power, good mid-range, and no issues whatsoever. Here's a video of the initial start up.. I'm sorry for the sound quality, it was taken on my phone. The high pitched noise is my temporary exhaust, and not my bearings, so don't worry about that. Also, before I took it on the drive, I dialed in the timing and carb a bit more, but didn't take the time to get a video of that. As I've been reading, time is of the essence. http://s686.photobucket.com/albums/vv224/MicroMachinery/720%204x4/?action=view¤t=Video027.mp4 I will take another video tomorrow of it running as it is now. I didn't have time once I got back from the drive, because I was already late for my night job. :o Luckily my boss is laid back and was anxious to hear how my truck was running :) Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 On my car when I tried starting it after it longs hibernation, it would sometimes crank, sometimes just give the spinning grind sound. My step dad and friend both said new starter and I was like nah. So after needing to move the car and it not starting I got a new idea, turned the ignition on and then bridged the starter solenoid myself with a hammer. Instantly a good crank, and consistently. I knew from that that new battery cables were in need. Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 i read through the thread and didnt find anything about what cam you used withthis build.. was it just a stock l20b cam? it sounds really good. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 Vroomm....vroommmmm. Right on... Question....the Z22 block has a coolant fitting on the side of the block...did you tee that into the hose coming from the L water pump...?....which then goes to the lower heater core connection on the firewall. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 i read through the thread and didnt find anything about what cam you used withthis build.. was it just a stock l20b cam? it sounds really good. Thanks man. Yes, stock L20b cam as far as I know.. it came in the U67 head. Vroomm....vroommmmm. Right on... Question....the Z22 block has a coolant fitting on the side of the block...did you tee that into the hose coming from the L water pump...?....which then goes to the lower heater core connection on the firewall. I took the Z22 water fitting out, blocking it with a brass plug. I used the above fitting(identical) in the L-series head, and connected it to the hose leading to the heater core. The other line going to the heater core is attached to the lower radiator hose connection on the block. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 Thanks man. Yes, stock L20b cam as far as I know.. it came in the U67 head. I took the Z22 water fitting out, blocking it with a brass plug. I used the above fitting(identical) in the L-series head, and connected it to the hose leading to the heater core. The other line going to the heater core is attached to the lower radiator hose connection on the block. That's what I figured. Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 well thats good to know then... im still lookin for a z22 bottom end.. they arent very commin around here. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 well thats good to know then... im still lookin for a z22 bottom end.. they arent very commin around here. Seems to be little common up here.....well....for me that is.... :D Have a couple with only 100,000 miles on them Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 I was sure that I put the distributor drive at the 11:35 position, as I always do, but it seems like I couldn't get enough advance out of the given adjustment slots. I thought it was suppose to be set at 11:20. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 I'm sorry, I thought I posted these. I didn't like the steel, so I went with brass :) Quote Link to comment
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