MicroMachinery Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 I thought it was suppose to be set at 11:20. Maybe so.. close enough :) Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 Some more candy for your viewing pleasure :) http://s686.photobucket.com/albums/vv224/MicroMachinery/720%204x4/?action=view¤t=Video031.mp4 Filmed today, on location at Micro Machinery :cool: She's timed and dialed now. Quote Link to comment
skunk Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 nice :thumbup: sounds good. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 I didn't like the steel, so I went with brass :) You are fortunate....they didn't even have a listing for my frost plugs... :blink: .let alone brass. They cross referenced the block warmers (size) I use...and gave me some generic 40mm steel plugs. Anywho......where is your PCV located?....out the side of the IM? Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 So I was out driving around town today, and I started smelling clutch. I figured it was someone else driving by, so I didn't pay much notice to it. I got out to my shop, then dropped something off, and left to come back, and I smelled it again, along with what felt like some slipping. This was very surprising to me, as I don't even have 400 miles on the clutch. It's a Daiken(Japanese) clutch for a Z22. I wouldn't think that my LZ22 is putting down enough torque to make the Z22 clutch slip.. could I be wrong? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 If you have the wrong release bearing collar, one that is too long like for a 200mm clutch on a 225mm it may not fully release. Do you have any pedal free play?? Push down on the clutch pedal with your thumb. It should move about 1/8" before any firm resistance is felt. If there is no free play the clutch master cannot return to it's rest position and it's like driving with your foot pushing on the clutch pedal. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 PP new? I dont think it has enough torque to do that, i think hang 510 runs an lz motor, don't think hes had that issue. Maybe when you put that 5 speed in get a Kevlar clutch disc :D Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 If you have the wrong release bearing collar, one that is too long like for a 200mm clutch on a 225mm it may not fully release. Do you have any pedal free play?? Push down on the clutch pedal with your thumb. It should move about 1/8" before any firm resistance is felt. If there is no free play the clutch master cannot return to it's rest position and it's like driving with your foot pushing on the clutch pedal. Yeah, I have quite a it more than 1/8" free play.. I'll adjust the pedal. Also, it's the release bearing that came with the clutch kit, and the clutch kit for the LZ22 engine(from an 81 720). PP new? I dont think it has enough torque to do that, i think hang 510 runs an lz motor, don't think hes had that issue. Maybe when you put that 5 speed in get a Kevlar clutch disc :D Yeah, ha. The 4-speed is only temporary. I have that 5-speed, and if it burns the clutch, I'll take it back and get a stronger one, or just say screw it and use the 200mm with roadster clutch :D I went out and moved a bunch of stuff for my girlfriend today, and didn't smell anything or feel any slipping, so I may be in the clear.. could have just been the clutch not disengaging all the way(pedal not adjusted correctly). Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 just say screw it and use the 200mm with roadster clutch :D i said screw it! :) no slippage :unsure: just 2 patches ;) Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Yeah, I have quite a it more than 1/8" free play.. I'll adjust the pedal. Also, it's the release bearing that came with the clutch kit, and the clutch kit for the LZ22 engine(from an 81 720). Yeah, ha. The 4-speed is only temporary. I have that 5-speed, and if it burns the clutch, I'll take it back and get a stronger one, or just say screw it and use the 200mm with roadster clutch :D I went out and moved a bunch of stuff for my girlfriend today, and didn't smell anything or feel any slipping, so I may be in the clear.. could have just been the clutch not disengaging all the way(pedal not adjusted correctly). Sweet! Im sure you know, but youll have to find a car flywheel thats 200mm.... Coming to seaside anytime soon? If not ill let you know next time im down that way i wanna go for a ride.. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 I have one, and it's a 6-bolt, too :) I don't see any near-future plans to make it to Seaside, but if you're down in the area anytime soon, shoot me a text. I just took it through the bog yesterday :cool: Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 So this morning I got up after letting the LZ22 sit all night, and I re-torqued the head bolts. One by one, I broke em loose and went to 55ft/lbs. Took the pickup to the car wash, and drove to the shop. Got a call from the girlfriend, and she was having car trouble. I drove to pick her up, then headed back to my shop. On the way there, I noticed the temp gauge climbing up higher than I'd ever seen it before, which grabbed and put my immediate attention in a headlock. By the time I was pulling into the shop, the temp was lowering to normal, and I popped the hood to let it sit for a few minutes. Later on, I released the pressure from the cap, and opened the radiator. It was low.. down past the fins. WTF. So I topped it off with a half a gallon, and ran it to check for bubbles, etc... Nothing. No bubbles, no oil, nada. I pulled the dipstick to check the oil.. clear and perfect; no milkshake. I checked the exhaust; no steam. What could be the issue? I can only assume that there was some air trapped in the system SOMEWHERE for the past 500+ miles of break in, and somehow it just magically presented itself. I dunno.. for some reason, it runs better, I've noticed. Not as much hesitation from a stop. I'm a little concerned that I may have F-ed something up by re-torquing, but I don't see how. I did it just like I've seen written: Break them loose, tighten to spec, ONE AT A TIME... I guess I'll just keep an eye on it. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Hmmmmm......maybe a little short on water initially? New thermostat?.....With jigger 'placed' away from engine? Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 I was just going to add ,,,, air in the system :lol: ,,, I worked on an F-150 last week that had a leaky water-pump ,,, bled in air bubbles and freaked out the system ( temperature sensor ,,, not sender ) ,,, and did the same thing as you described ---> hesitation off the line gone , no fluctuations , yada yada ... I always get a premium thermostat ,,, the cheapies in my experience never work right as intended or fail early ,,, half a gallon is a substantial amount ,,, hhhhhmmmmmm def keep an eye on that puppy ! Good luck man ! Love the build so far if I might add :cool: Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Hmmmmm......maybe a little short on water initially? New thermostat?.....With jigger 'placed' away from engine? I'm hoping so.. It's a new thermostat, with the jiggle-pin. It's installed correctly. half a gallon is a substantial amount ,,, hhhhhmmmmmm def keep an eye on that puppy ! Yeah, it is quite a bit, but it was the leftover half gallon from when I initially filled the system(1 gal distilled water, 1 gal coolant). I have a small leak in the radiator, but have never noticed even a drop on the ground when the truck is parked. This has me very concerned, but like I said, there's no steam out the tail pipe, no bubbles in the radiator, and the oil doesn't look contaminated with water.. could it be possible that the air hid out somewhere in there for this long? :huh: Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 So the other night I had enough and decided the 32/36 was no longer welcome on my LZ22. Slapped on the set of 38mm twin hitachi's I have, and she fired right up. Here's a few seconds after the startup.. http://s686.photobucket.com/albums/vv224/MicroMachinery/720%204x4/?action=view¤t=Video033.mp4 After a little tuning, and some over-the-phone counseling from Skib, I got her running quite a bit nicer. I still need to get my hands on a Unisyn, but for the time being, it's good enough, and judging from the plugs, I'm in the ballpark. I also need to figure out a more effect cable setup; mine only pulls to 3/4 throttle(but maybe that's a good thing ;) ). I'm really liking the way these things look in the 720 engine compartment.. ... I love the way these things sound at about 4k. :D Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 ..... could it be possible that the air hid out somewhere in there for this long? :huh: Was this trip the first time you ran the heater? The air was probably hiding in the heater core. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 No, I was sure to run it right from the start. When I took the 32/36 off, I saw that coolant had been migrating from the coolant port up into the intake ports.. I don't know how some people can swear by not putting any sealant around pressurized coolant passages.. never has yielded good results for me. Ever. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 Fappy mc fapperson!!! Quote Link to comment
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