Jester Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 My goon total width is 53 Inches thats from clear out on the pilot to pilot. Building some toyota diffs to swap into wagons. But the wheels don't sit on the axle, they sit on the drums. I should have measured the width from the axle flange too. What rear end are you starting with? Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Toyota 8 inch truck axle narrowed up for the wagon and the axles machined and redrilled 4 4 1/2 for claytons wagon. Gonna be pretty sweet super tough and any gear ratio locker or lsd ya want. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 What will be your finished width? I'm trying to remember what offset he is running on the rear. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I would like to run a 7.5 wide at +20 offset... :rolleyes: But serious (I know you will) keep the jigs around. It is something that is high on my priorities list for the wagon. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 Same width as a wagon axle is. I can go narrower but not any wider cause I cant narrow the shaft enough to get their. But I have a secret weapon to get me to the wagon width. making these axles isnt very cheap but what options ya got that small and fits under a stock floored wagon. We also narrowed one for the 521. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted January 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 I am currently looking into the Ford 7.5. A '79-'93 Mustang rear is 57". Easily narrowed and a lsd through Summit is a mere $200. And there should be enough of them out there that have been swapped out in favor of the bulky 8.8 Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 Yea I'm just not a fan of C clip axles and non drop out 3rds I dunno what size shafts the 7.5 have but yota shafts are just over 1 1/4 and 30 spline will stand up to just about any amount of power you wanna put to it. stock common ratio of 4.10 add a v6 third and its even stronger,. Any diff swap narrowing etc is gonna be expensive no matter what. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Isn't he Ford 8.0 rear end a drop out and non C-clip? Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Yup but the 8 inch has small axles and the housing is quite large. I dont think most people have ever measured these ford diffs vs the datton h 190 their physically alot bigger and theirs barley any room under a wagon as it is. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Got a couple projects done Saturday that have been long over due. I had installed a pair of later 620 shoulder belts in my wagon and wasn't too happy with the factory spot for the original shoulder loop. So, lets get started. As it looked before I started. After removing the B pillar head liner material, I prepped the area for welding. Then I drilled a hole in the B pillar to accept the nut that I tig welded onto a piece of 12 gauge sheet metal. I had planned on taking a picture after tig welding the new mounts, but, my phone decided to die. So I did it today after washing the car. I have a roof section from one of the trucks I parted out that I am going to steel some material from to make some new B pillar covers. But, for now, this will work as a final. I also tore apart an old ignition switch and swapped the tumbler keys from my 510 switch into it. WHAT A PAIN IN THE ASS THAT WAS! If anyone decides to take a key tumbler apart to clean it or rekey your own ignition switch, make sure you keep the tumbler keys in the correct order when your done cleaning them. I wish I had taken pictures of this project. It was amazing how worn the brass had become. I actually took a small ball peen hammer and flattened the brass back down. It had worn enough to push the brass out one side. I also filled the tumbler keys lightly after re installing to make sure there were no sharp spots to catch on the key way inside the cylinder. A little dry graphite for lube and she works like new. I now have my key mounted in the dash instead of the column. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Nice upgrade on the belts. :cool: Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Thats a fine idea on the belts I got honda belts in my wagon. I hate how the stupid shoulder belt just bout goes across my freakin face! Mind if I borrow that idea? Hopefully its not patened pending ha ha ha. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 Ya, it's at the patent office right now. I agree with the belt in the face deal. Before it kept rubbing on the side of my chin. Sucked!!!! They feel sooooo much better now. I hardly notice that I am wearing them. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 I guess the japanese were tall LOL! or they thought americans were giants. Quote Link to comment
goichi1 Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 Just read through your thread, nice wagon project and some really cool thinking outside the box, really like the ignition switch in the radio bezel, I just hate how the stock location is on the left of the steering....I guess I need to get over here on Ratsun more often, just look at all the good stuff I'm missing out on!! thanks for the cool read!! ....side note: when removing a fender for the first time, just tighten the bolts till they break off, then twist them out from the other end when the fenders off....works like a champ and it's much easier than drilling them out. 1 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 ....side note: when removing a fender for the first time, just tighten the bolts till they break off, then twist them out from the other end when the fenders off....works like a champ and it's much easier than drilling them out. THAT is funny. I will definitely try that next time. I usually turn them in just a little, spray them with PB Blaster, let it sit a while and then work them out slowly. Didn't work this time. I still need to fix the bottom fender bolts behind the front tire. I had them coming out.........till they broke. I was going to drill them. I can't seem to be able to reach what is left of the bolts. Figured since they started to come out that maybe with some drilling action, they will go back in like your saying. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 I also put my new calipers on the front tonight and adjusted the rear drums. I have had the calipers sitting in the garage for about 2 months now. Didn't want to rush it or anything. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 I also put my new calipers on the front tonight and adjusted the rear drums. I have had the calipers sitting in the garage for about 2 months now. Didn't want to rush it or anything. Definitely took your sweet time there! :lol: Do you still have the 510 struts? Quote Link to comment
goichi1 Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 Yea, the bottom one you have to be very gentle with, PB works good too, pull the interior kick panel and spray some on the inside too, I was talking break off the top row, the bottom and door jamb needs to come out carefully. Also use a 1/4 drive ratchet and it will help limit the torque you will put on the bottom one, unlike a bigger 3/8 drive, sometimes you don't realize how much you are twisting them. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 Definitely took your sweet time there! :lol: Do you still have the 510 struts? No, I put some 280ZX struts with shortened 280Z springs and seats. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 ....side note: when removing a fender for the first time, just tighten the bolts till they break off, then twist them out from the other end when the fenders off....works like a champ and it's much easier than drilling them out. +1 For excellent tech tip. I think I'm getting the hang of the rep thing :lol: Quote Link to comment
Siempreloco Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 2eDeYe' date='07 February 2012 - 12:34 PM' timestamp='1328636075' post='628685']+1 For excellent tech tip. I think I'm getting the hang of the rep thing :lol: Rep works like this: +1 Anything good/smart -1 Honduhs and retards. -874326583265 Siempreloco always. Quote Link to comment
goichi1 Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 I can't take credit for that one, that's a Jeff Hino (icehouse) master of the 510 trick, and you know this....man! Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Well, I haven't done a whole lot that can be seen on this car lately. This little car has been so awesome that all I need is to keep gas and oil in it and just drive the shit out of it. This Mothers day, I bought a '02 Dodge pickup to take care of the daily duties of going to work, making the wagon available for modifications that I have been wanting to do. So, my search for a front half of a dime as a test bed is over. I'm going to use mine. With all that, let me show you guys what I have been up to. Picked up this little TEO4 from a Mitzubishi. Still trying to get the inner cooler from the same car. In preperation for the 90mm KA pistons, Z22S rods and O-ringed block, I decided to race prep the entire block. This was about 3 hours into the task. This is about 15 hours of work. My plan for the fuel system consists of a '84 200SX CA20 ECU and harness. I may talk to a buddy of mine about making me a custom intake. I will be designing my own header as well. No real destination on power other than building it and seeing what comes of it. Should be fun with about 10 pounds of boost though. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Me likey! So what block is that? Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.