NCRmtrsprts510 Posted April 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2010 How well did those welds penetrate on your tranny crossmember? Personally I would of got something other than flat stock to hold my tranny. I know its 1/4" thick, but you would be supprized at what kinda torque can be placed on that trans mount. yes they did but the slag just drooped down because i was welding upside down, i dont think it would bend or break i am not going to be running a ton of hp. i should be fine lol Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted April 4, 2010 Report Share Posted April 4, 2010 Yeah I understand about the slag, but what I am concerned with is the flex when you hit a bump or something, you pretty much have it sitting on a leaf spring, its not going to be very solid at all, it may feel kinda sloppy for gear changes. Just a thought... Quote Link to comment
NCRmtrsprts510 Posted April 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2010 hmm yea now i get what your saying, ill see how this does at first and if it moves around too much then ill think about reinforcing it somehow.. Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted April 4, 2010 Report Share Posted April 4, 2010 hmm yea now i get what your saying, ill see how this does at first and if it moves around too much then ill think about reinforcing it somehow.. if it seems sloppy. What you could do is weld a flat bar verticle to give it some ridgity. Pretty much make your own L type channel. That would help it not flex anymore Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted April 4, 2010 Report Share Posted April 4, 2010 if it seems sloppy. What you could do is weld a flat bar verticle to give it some ridgity. Pretty much make your own L type channel. That would help it not flex anymore i like that idea but i would take it a step further and tie the new vertical part into the "feet" of the cross member this will make it alot stronger especially if its all made out of 1/4 inch plate damn thing will be stronger then the car your bolting it ot Quote Link to comment
NCRmtrsprts510 Posted April 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 yea that would increase the strength by a lot, ill keep that in mind and see whats up when i get this sucker running. but its gonna be a couple months before shes done, because i dont know if u guys know but i am only 19 years old, and i dont make a lot of money.. so stay tuned! :cool: Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 i am only 19 years old, and i dont make a lot of money.. so stay tuned! :cool: i understand this all to well im 23 and worked fast food for 600 a month Quote Link to comment
NCRmtrsprts510 Posted April 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 my turbo has arrived.. oh baby!! :w00t: Thoughts??? Quote Link to comment
polski ogorki Posted April 24, 2010 Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 Thoughts??? Yayer! Nice work man! I've been watching from the side lines and I love your car it looks tough! Your gonna have fun with this one! I't looks like the urban asault 510! Quote Link to comment
NCRmtrsprts510 Posted April 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 Turbo lines are on! Quote Link to comment
b210in Posted April 29, 2010 Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 Turbo lines are on! what are the specs of the turbo? are you going to run bigger injectors? nistune or aftermarket ecu? Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted April 29, 2010 Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 5. Fuel cell 12. Driveshaft Shortened and balanced PM me for details if you still need a fuel cell, 15G IIRC. dunno dimensions, but there is a shortened wagon DS in SF (listed here - im considering a trade it for my stock wagon DS) but may work for you Quote Link to comment
sssr20det510 Posted April 29, 2010 Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 my turbo has arrived.. oh baby!! :w00t: Thoughts??? looks like a pretty big turbo what size is it Quote Link to comment
NCRmtrsprts510 Posted April 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 turbo is 63 a/r turbine 50 a/r compressor. i might need to run bigger injectors, idk yet. and then probably running a AFC for tuning.. 1 Quote Link to comment
NCRmtrsprts510 Posted May 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 i cut the gauge holes and made a tranny hump cover, and soon i will be finishing that heat shield for the master. 1 Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted May 14, 2010 Report Share Posted May 14, 2010 why not run more gauges? you have all that space i know i would want every gauge possible Quote Link to comment
NCRmtrsprts510 Posted May 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2010 why not run more gauges? you have all that space i know i would want every gauge possible i am dont you worry! next to it in the middle is gonna be 4 more gauges: Boost/Vac, Oil Press, Voltmeter and clock?? apparently they dont make A/F ratio gauges in 2-5/8" :confused: Quote Link to comment
NCRmtrsprts510 Posted May 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 pushed her out of the garage to get a little tan, and turn her around so i can do the fuel system next week. 1 Quote Link to comment
b210in Posted May 21, 2010 Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 your shit is looking pimp. i diggin the little fat wheels. i was originally going run a set like that but i did the 280zx front brake swap and now cant clear 13's. when you get around to doing your harness and attaching it to your 510 fuse box, the orange wire is what tells the ecu it's time to turn on the engine, if you don't connect this wire you will have a hard time trying to get it started. have you had a chance to review ratsun forum member Icehouse's diaghram? it's in the how to section. i followed that diaghram to the last detail and my shit ran on the first try. Quote Link to comment
NCRmtrsprts510 Posted May 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 yea im using his diagram too, and followed it specifically, ill look for the orange wire next week to see if i hooked it up when i get back with all my fuel system stuff. then hopefully next weekend she should be running. B) Quote Link to comment
NCRmtrsprts510 Posted May 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 for the FPR... i have an aftermarket one, but it is an inline one, so should i mount it after the stock FPR?? or what? some goodies... Wiring mounted, ECU is mounted inside the glove box. AFCO Radiator SS hardlines, Fittings, walbro pump, fuel filter, regulator, fuel hose fuel cell :cool: Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted May 26, 2010 Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 I'll race you once I move back to the bay area come august :) Quote Link to comment
b210in Posted May 26, 2010 Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 dude, i have not been able to wrench on my shit. i will definitely get to it this 3 day weekend. what lines do you need me to point out first? if you are installing an aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure reg, get rid of your old one. you don't need to run it. Quote Link to comment
NCRmtrsprts510 Posted May 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2010 but how am i supposed to get the fuel from the rail to the aftermarket regulator, cause the fpr doesnt bolt on to the rail... i also need to find a dropping resistor.. Quote Link to comment
compression Posted May 27, 2010 Report Share Posted May 27, 2010 but how am i supposed to get the fuel from the rail to the aftermarket regulator, cause the fpr doesnt bolt on to the rail... i also need to find a dropping resistor.. You run the regulator on the return line that heads back to the tank, after the fuel rail. I didnt read the whole post, but What turbo is that? (please dont say chinese Ebay turbo.....). Quote Link to comment
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