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Everything posted by compression

  1. Boom! Thank you! I will reach out to them and see if I can get one ordered. Thank you for the link!
  2. Looking for someone that makes custom inserts/bezels so I can cleanly mount an AEM CD-5 digital dash in my 510. I was recommended here by another person. I searched around but was not able to come up with anything. Just like this one: https://www.dropbox.com/s/423gn4vknpw98v0/IMG_4613.jpg?dl=0 Let me know if you anyone can recommend someone who makes these. Thank you!
  3. Well, this morning I realized that my throttle linkage was keeping the throttle plates from completely closing. So I adjusted the linkage and the idle screws on the SU carbs and now I am able to get my idle down under 1000. Still have the vacuum advance disconnected though. I am grabbing vacuum from the port on the carb, as shown in this picture.
  4. One a car project years ago (240sx) I made a longer push rod shaft for my slave cylinder. I cut the shaft of an old cheap screwdriver to the length I needed then rounded the ends with a grinder and it worked well! Not sure if it applies here, just something I remember doing. I believe it was due to an afermarket HKS flywheel, that had been re-faced a few times.
  5. Starting a new thread here because I think this information might be useful to future people who try to do some searching. Just got my L28 put together and up and running in my 240z. This is a fresh install, pretty much all parts are brand new. Engine was torn down to a short block, inspected, then put back together (rods, crank and pistons stayed in). So it is essentially a fresh rebuild and I am just now getting running and dialed in. Issue is that I am trying to set ignition timing and I am not sure if I am on the right track. Parts being used: -Electronic distributor (black box on side of distributor) - New -New plug wires -New spark plugs -New SU carbs from Z-therapy Car starts and runs fairly well, but just trying to get ignition timing locked down. Here is what is going on: It likes to idle at 20-ish degrees BTDC (vacuum advance disconnected) Having trouble dropping the idle below 1000-1200 RPM, without it dying, but that might be due to carb adjustment, still working on that. When I hook up the vacuum advance it sputters and dies almost immediately. When I watch the timing and hook up the vacuum advance, I can see it shoot to very advanced off the scale. A 280z service manual (what the distributor is from) tells me that the vacuum advance should be advancing it 9 degrees with 11"Hg of vacuum. And mechanical (centrifugal advance) is 8.5 degrees at 1250 distributor RPM. It also says base timing should be 10 degrees at 800 rpm (I assume that is with vacuum advance hooked up....) So I assume that with vacuum advance disconnected, my base 800RPM timing should be 1 degree advanced? I did run it up to about 3000 RPM and set the total advance to about 30 deg BTDC, once again vacuum advance disconnected. Then bring it back down to idle and I hook up the vac advance and timing shoots up and it dies. What am I doing wrong here? Should I just run without the vac advance connected? What is the downside? Input welcome. Thanks in advance (pun) for any help!! PS: I know I will have this solved in a few days, so I will try to follow up with whatever I ended up doing.
  6. I made the plug wires using an MSD "Street fire" kit. The kit came with a crimping tool. 245/45/16...because an L28 needs all that tire.... ha ha haaaa.
  7. OK John, you talked me into it! :-) Here are some teasers
  8. Yep, I have a plan for monitoring and regulating the fuel pressure. Thanks for the tip though!
  9. First off, sorry no pictures in this post. Those will come later, when I have time to sort through them all. Man, I did a lot of work to the car over this winter (2017/2018). So many things changed. I am calling this Phase 1 mods (L-series, suspension, wheels/tires, brakes, etc). If I decide I love the car and want to keep it forever, I will plan Phase 2 for another year or two down the road (body/paint, engine swap, interior, etc) So this winter been hard at work on the following: -Reassembled an L28 I got off of craigslist. Replaced all critical parts (yes, I used an OEM head gasket) -Sent the SU's off to Z-therapy for a rebuild...still waiting for those to come back.... -Removed every non-critical component from the engine bay, they cleaned and painted it -New brake master cylinder (for disc brakes) and new brake lines along with a Wilwood prop valve -Reassembled L28 and dropped it in with new everything pretty much -installed electronic distributor -Redid engine bay wiring -Made new spark plug wires -New clutch and resurfaced flywheel -same 4-speed transmission -Installed MSA 6-1 header and matching 2.5" exhaust system (great fit by the way!) -took out fuel tank and treated/coated the inside and got the exterior powder coated -installed electric fuel pump by fuel tank (mechanical one went bye-bye) -Removed ALL suspension from the vehicle front and rear and power washed the complete underside of the car -installed BC Racing coilovers -Got all suspension brackets and arms powder coated and installed new poly bushings -Installed T3 GTX2 front control arms -Toyota 4-piston calipers and 300zx rotors on the front -Maxima rear calipers and 300zx rotors on the rear, with working parking brake -All stainless braided teflon brake hoses -New OEM rear hub bearings -Suspension techniques swaybars front and rear -New front hub bearings -New tie rods and refreshed the steering rack -New wheels, 16x8F, and 16x9R Rota Grids (yeah I know, but they will work for the time being until I find something I really like or get a custom wheel set made) -MSA bolt-on ZG flares and all the corresponding wheel well cutting that goes with these -installed some sparco seats -installed sparco steering wheel I think that is about it.....Once the carbs come back, then I can fire this thing up!
  10. UPDATE: After spending a good amount of time driving around, I decided I wan to change the position of the driver seat, slightly. For reference, I am 5'11". I had about 1 inch to between my head and the headliner. The passenger seat can stay where it is, since it does not really matter. I want it to sit about 1 inch lower and I want to slide it back about another 1 inch. Since it is already the lowest that will allow with the factory sliders, I am going to have to do some cutting/welding to the mounts in the car. Not a big deal, but kind of a project. For sliding it farther back, it is hitting the seat belt reel mechanism of my MSA seat belts (actually made by Retro Belts). So I have to re-mount the reel somewhere else that is not directly behind the thickest part of the seat. Possibly more welding involved. Don't worry, if I have to remake a seat belt anchor spot, I will make sure it is reinforced. Will post an update.
  11. Hello all, I just installed a set of Sparco R100 seats into my 1973 240z. Here are the details of the installation. The R100 seat from Sparco is their "budget" seat. They retail for about $300/ea. I chose the black vinyl ones. These are made in China. Before I purchased the set, I sat in them and really liked the fit. There are a wide variety of "racing" seats on Ebay from unknown manufacturers for very little money. I chose the sparco seats because at least I have heard of Sparco and I think if I had any issues they would be able to take care of it. The installation shown below covers the passenger seat. I will just repeat the process for the driver side. I did the passenger seat first in case I learned anything and had to make corrections to the install process when I got to the driver side (the important seat!). Step 1: Remove the OEM seat: Step 2: Remove the sliders from the OEM seat and mark the orientation of each one (FWD/Inside) Compare the seat bottoms OEM vs R100. Step 3: Test fit the non-handle slider to the R100 seat. Line up the rear stud with the rear hole in the seat. Notice that the slider is too long for the R100 seat. You do not want to line up the front stud with the front hole of the seat . This would put the seat too far forward. Carefully mark the slider where you will need to drill the front hole You will re-use the OEM hole for the rear bolt (after you push out the stud fastener). Step 4: Push out all of the short (seat side) studs from the rails. The R100 seats are female threaded for M8x1.25, so you will need to find some M8x1.25 x 25mm long bolts. If you can find them in button-head allen form, that would be the best (low profile head). If you deform the steel of the rail, try to flatten it back out as much as possible. Step 5: Drill the front hole in the rail (clearance size for M8 threaded fastener). Step 6: Bolt the rail to the seat (assuming you drilled in the correct spot). Step 7: Repeat the process for the side with the locking mechanism. Bolt the rail to the seat bottom. You may notice that the lock mechanism slighly interferes with the a metal bar on the underside of the seat. You can add short spacers (maybe 4mm thick) between the rails (at all four bolt points) to handle the interference, but I did not. I wanted the seat to sit as low as possible. Step 8: Now that the rails are mounted, you will notice that they sit wider than the OEM seat by about 5/8". Step 9: Time to slot the holes in the floor pan seat mounts. Step 10: I slotted all four holes outward until they were wide enough to accommodate the new seat rail positions on the seat. Only about 3/8" per hole. NOTE: when I do this for the driver side seat, I will only lot the holes by the transmission tunnel, this will move the seat inboard and allow more clearance with the B pillar. Step 11: bolt seat in place. Use some M8 nuts with flanges and some large diameter washers (because of the slot). The pictures below show final fitment: This picture shows the RH reclining lever (there is one on each side) There was not enough clearance to install the plastic cover on this lever. But there was on the inner lever. So I am leaving this cover off. (you can still activate the recline pulling on the metal arm.. or use the the other lever). As you can see in this picture there is just enough clearance for the seat belt retractor! so close! This seat belt kit is from Motorsport Auto. The OEM seat belts are non-retracting so it would not be an issue with those. Final impressions! Seat fit is VERY GOOD!! Slider is fully functional and seat is positioned exactly where I would want it, although I will shift the driver seat inboard a bit more. Seat belts are still fully accessible (might add harnesses in the future). Installation was pretty easy (as you can see) which makes me like them even more. They are comfortable and will meet my needs just fine. Highly recommended!!!
  12. Guys, I am troubleshooting a power draw. When I connect the battery (ign off), I get a click form this relay: Can anyone tell me what this relay does? Or maybe tell me where I can find a nice full-size color wiring diagram for the car?
  13. Put about 20 miles on it yesterday. So far so good. I did lose a hubcap into oncoming traffic, which then got run over by a commercial truck...booo! The thing runs and drives quite well! I am very surprised! I am guess that the previous owner (a doctor) drove it as a daily for many years. Then something happened (bad battery?, got a new car?) and he decided to park it. He was not cleanest guy, so the interior needed a good vacuum and clean, but everything worked. I am guess it has been sitting for a several years in a very dirty garage or some sort of carport. There was no moisture or mold inside of it, but lots of dust on the outside. The car was painted at some point it in it's life. It was originally a copper color, now it is a maroon-brown color. I buffed the paint, which looked good for about a week. And now it is looking oxidized again....?? I am not a paint guy so I dont know why. I put carnauba wax on it after the buff. I am in the process of fixing some minor annoyances: -shifter handle bushings were completely gone resulting in a shifter that had about 8" of lateral play. -Install electronic signal flasher (old one was very slow) -Install 280zx I/R alternator -deleting the EGR system -deleting the PCV valve and venting crankcase to a catch can -Figure out what the clunking sound in the rear suspension is. -Going to swap the muffler to something a bit more "sporty" since the car is deathly quiet now. I cant stand it! I cant even hear it idling when I am in the car. I have to check the tach to make sure it is still running! I am surprised at how many things still work -Power antenna - WORKS! -Original AM/FM radio - WORKS! -Seat belt buzzer - WORKS! (until I unplugged the damn thing) -CHOKE indicator light -WORKS! -HVAC fan - WORKS! -Horns - WORK! -Dash lights - ALL WORK! -Parking brake -WORKS! The previous owner obviously had some work done on the car on a regular basis. There was a sticker from Reborn Automotive in NE portland. Just going to clean it up, get the annoying stuff fixed and see what I want to do with it from there.
  14. Pictures, finally! A little before/after comparison:
  15. On the topic of front brakes.... Is it common or advised to consider a 280zx front strut/brake swap? Obviously the spring perches are different, but those can be cut off and modified. Did this all the time on 510s and just wondering if it would apply to the S30 as well.
  16. Great info! Thank you much everyone. I have also been reading that a diode is needed in the VR harness. So I got some diodes coming and 280zx alternator. I PROMISE to have pics soon!!! But just imagine a bone stock 240z (with stock 14" hub caps) in maroon color and you get the idea. Is the ZX rear disc conversion a simple swap-over? what about parking brake? I guess I would have to find a donor at a U-pull-it wrecking yard.
  17. I got my first 510 back in 1996. Over the years I have had many project cars (a few 510s, 240sx, B13 SE-R, Subarus, 610, etc) but never a Z car. Recently I happened upon a '73 240Z here in the Portland area and got it for a good price. The car is 99.3% rust free and 100% stock in every way. Runs/drives. Someone used it as a daily for quite a long time, then stored it for several years. Anyway, I have a few questions about getting this thing road worthy that focus on safety and reliability. I don't want to go all-out on anything because I don't know what my long term plan for the car is yet, besides get it reliably running and safe to drive. 1. Seems to be a charging issue. I want to get rid of the points-style mechanical voltage regulator and go with a more modern internally regulated alternator. What is the most efficient way to do this? ZX alternator? Before you say "search dumbass!", I want to let you know that I did, and I spent almost an hour scouring through all sorts of crap without a direct coherent answer. I am just looking for a straight forward "buy this alternator, do these mods, done". 2. I hate drum brakes. No, really, I do. I can convert a 510 to rear disc in about 2 hours using parts I have memorized the part numbers for. But for the Z, it is different and foreign to me. I see MSA has a rear disc kit, but it is priced high for what it is. Any other alternatives? I have 86 Maxima rear calipers sitting in my garage..... I already make affordable rear disc brake conversion brackets for the 510, maybe I need to expand my offering for the Z cars...we will see. 3. Front brakes. Details on a front mild disc brake upgrade (vented rotors for sure). Don't want to go full on TTT or Arizona Z car and drop multiple thousands. Just something that is good for street driving and improves over the stock setup. Anyway, those are the things I had immediate questions about. I will post a picture or two when I get it back on the ground and out in the sunshine. Thanks in advance. It is good to be back in the Datsun family.
  18. I put a viscous subaru diff in my former 610. I used the 610 axles and just slid them into the subie diff. The long bolt has nothing to attach to, so I didnt fasten them in place. They stayed in there just fine. If you have a lot of angle in your half shafts (car is jacked up in the air or down low in the weeds) then they might pull out. But it was never an issue on mine.I glanced under the car all the time to check during shakedown runs. I never could tell if the viscous unit was working corretly. But I could successfully do 2-wheel burnouts though...as seen here at the 1:50 mark: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EaaSyy28KU
  19. http://radiumauto.com/media/blog-page.php?The-Classic-VW-Bug-82 Craziness.
  20. Just some additional clarification: 1. The brackets are for 2-door and 4-door sedan only. Not wagon. Wagons have some rear bearing craziness that complicates the process. 2. I only stock the brackets that utilize the 1986-87 Maxima rear claipers(option 2). I no longer make the brackets that use the 200sx calipers. However, both use the 200sx rotors. 3. I have wilwood rear conversion brackets as well, however, these are specially made on a per-order basis and are a little more expensive than the Maxima brackets. 4. At the time of this posting, the Maxima brackets are $95 with free shipping in the US and mounting bolts are included. 5. I can also include the custom rear brake lines for additional charge if requested. High quality braided stainless/teflon with fittings. Contact me directly (NO PM's) at: engineered.datsun@gmail.com to set up an order, or if you have any questions. Thanks! -Aaron
  21. Bunch of HDR and other misc shots on my Flickr: Even some from Canby a few years ago mixed in there. http://www.flickr.com/photos/31536204@N00/sets/72157622400873950/ Z-car Engine Bay by A. S. Photography, on Flickr
  22. Got some pics to post. Will get the rest up soon.
  23. I have some instructions on how to adapt the parking brake system from a 1986-87 maxima into a 510/610. Basically it covers installing the tunnel-mounted pull handle, cables and calipers from the maxima. Some mods are involved to get it done. If you want a copy of these instructions, just Email me at: engineered.datsun@gmail.com
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