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DogLeg or Z 5 speed


DatDoug

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The dogleg (FS5W63) drops in to the 510, no drive line shortening needed as it's the same length as the stock 4 spd. You may need to mod the rear mount.

 

The FS5W63 shift pattern is:

 

R 2 4

1 3 5

 

 

The FS5W71B 280z 5spd ('77-'78) is almost 6" longer and besides shortening the driveshaft you will need to make/mod a mount for it and get a longer speedo cable.

 

The 280zx 5spd. ('79-'83) same as above but a much higher 5th overdrive ratio.

 

The FS5W71B shift pattern is:

1 3 5

2 4 R

 

Of the two the FS5W71B is stronger than the FS5W63 but either will be fine behind an unmodified L20B.

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****WARNING POSIBLE THREAD JACK (sorry)****

 

Thanks datzenmike i see why your called "king rat"

 

 

MY CAR IS A 71 W/AUTO, WITH THE DOG LEG WILL I HAVE TO MOD MY DRIVE SHAFT???? SPLINES, LENGHT??

 

IM ON THE FENCE IF IM JUST GOING TO THROW A 5SPD AND DRIVE IT TILL THE MOTOR POPS (47K AND YOU CAN EAT OFF THE INSIDE OF THE ENG.) SO IT MAY LAST FOR A WHILE OR IF LIKE MY DAD SAYS MY LIFE TIME LOL.

 

OPTION 2 IS TO PUT A KADE WITH SOME CARBS OF SOME SORT (im thinking r1) or just some mikunis but i kind of want to be diff

 

OR OPTION 3 IM NOW THINKING OF GOING CARB'D VG AFTER SEEING A FEW NICE SWAPS I THINK IT LOOKS GOOD IN THIER WITH THAT MOTOR BUT I DONT LIEK THE IDEA OF DUAL PIPES UNDER THE CAR IDK I HAVE NOT SEEN MANY PEOPLES EXAUST SET UPS WITH THAT SWAP YET OR KNOW HOW RESTRICTIVE IT WOULD BE TO MAKE A 2into1 SYSTEM FOR THAT MOTOR WOULD BE

 

BUT IF I CAN JUST PRETTY MUCH BOLT A DOGLEG IN THAT MIGHT BE THE BEST OPTION TILL I CAN FIGURE OUT WHAT I WANT TO DO. CUZ ONCE I START GETTING INTO MODDING THE SHAFT AND MOUNTS I MAY ASWELL JUST DO THE MOTOR SWAP AT THE SAME TIME CUZ I DONT WANT TO HAVE TO DO THINGS TWICE

Edited by JDM510
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What's with the caps lock? That is really hard to read..

 

im sooo sorry i just noticed that i hit the caps lock im on one of these new stupid lil laptops and i guess my fingers are hitting every button but the one i want lol

 

 

also my first 510 i did the zx swap and mods included: cutting the tunnel for the shifter cuz its futher back, shorting the drive shaft, and on my car all i had to do was flip the tranny x memeber around and it bolted right up

Edited by JDM510
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the dogleg is a bit of a pain when racing due to 1 being down and 2nd up and to the right which you can blow a shift . sometimes put it in reverse. thinking its 1st. Frank/Jeff might have drivelines cut already in the correct length

But its a EZ swap putting the doglegin. if you dont race around its fine in my book.

the ZX is alot beefier. but needs shorting.

 

Carter said Dave Carrol has made soem new X members and is taking orders

 

from yesterday:Carter Boad [CarterB@Electroimpact.com]

Great news guys. We finally have a new batch. It is currently being powder coated so I can take orders again and ship next week. Let me know if you are still interested. I have nine available in this first batch and the next batch won’t be too far out.

 

The crossmembers are still $75 each. $10 shipping to the lower 48.

 

I also have some experimental engineering idler bushing kits in stock at $32 each and a few T/C kits available as well for $28 each.

 

I also have the last of the experimental engineering wheel spacers available in 1/2” and 5/8” for $50/pr.

 

No additional shipping charges will be added if any of these items are included with your crossmember order. Thanks!

 

--carter

 

 

 

If you are doing a KA or SR swap, the crossmember *should* still be a bolt-in but depending on your engine’s location, you may have to increase the slot length or drill new mounting holes. Reports from customers have been about half and half. For the L-motor stuff - it is VERY rare that it is not a true bolt in.

 

--carter

 

also get the Cysler door hinge kit to use the brass side bushing for the shifter. the plastic ones suck HELP brand 38377 or the mutipack 38374 from Schucks

 

 

Being a Z car has such a high ratio diff I dont think youll see any difference in MPG Maybe 1st will be to low in the ZX trans combined with a lower diff ratio in a 510

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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the dogleg is a bit of a pain when racing due to 1 being down and 2nd up and to the right which you can blow a shift .

 

sometimes put it in reverse. thinking its 1st.

 

:lol: i only do that at stop signs! :GRIND: :o

 

racing: thats only an issue from a stop! in the cyns, the straight 2-3-2 shifting is the :poop:

 

 

i have both, they are used for different applications.

 

the goon will have the ZX, the sedan has a dogleg (and i wouldnt swap it either!)

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:lol: i only do that at stop signs! :GRIND: :o

 

racing: thats only an issue from a stop! in the cyns, the straight 2-3-2 shifting is the :poop:

 

 

i have both, they are used for different applications.

I read somewhere on the 1200 site that the dogleg pattern was actually a racing development because the 4-5 and 5-4 shifts being the most common on a road course.

 

In response to the OP - I would probably use the dogleg just because it is a more direct swap.

 

Related question: What is the difference between the 200sx dogleg and the one used in the 720 w/L20B?

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I read somewhere on the 1200 site that the dogleg pattern was actually a racing development because the 4-5 and 5-4 shifts being the most common on a road course.

 

In response to the OP - I would probably use the dogleg just because it is a more direct swap.

 

Related question: What is the difference between the 200sx dogleg and the one used in the 720 w/L20B?

 

dogleg didn't come stock. was installed afterwards, i believe the 80 720 with l20 came with a 4sp

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