royal purple too expensive now

[herculesinwyoming]

i have used royal purple a few times, back when it was 6 bucks a quart, today i needed oil for a oil change in my big chevy truck,

 

royal purple was 9 bucks a quart, so i got some 5 quart jugs of valvoline synthetic for 20 bucks each.

 

so is royal purple that good, or are people that stupid to buy the stuff.

 

 

the only reason i run synthetic is my truck has the 8.1 liter engine and i try every trick in the book to get more miles per gallon, slowing down 5 mph on the interstate and running 70, makes the best improvement.

[nismo dr]

Yes, Royal Purple is that good. A buddy of mind ran it in his top alcohol dragster - everything was gorgeous every tear down (quite a few times a weekend), he got a sponsorship from another oil company and it looks like a street engine even after 1 run.

 

edit: but I would definately only shell out that kinda dough for a full race motor, not really worried about mileage in that instance

Edited September 24, 2009 by nismo dr

[Guest DatsuNoob]

I've heard running a fuel cooler can add a couple MPG's. Not sure about the royal purple though. I buy whatever's on sale at Autozone, since my DD burns about a qt/week :lol:

[datzenmike]

Driving the posted speed limit with a tuned up motor, properly inflated tires, no 'junk in the trunk', no jack rabbit starts will save you way more gas than any product like royal purple. At best they give what a 2% increase in mileage??? less?? Not worth the money spent. Drive slower.

[hoov100]

At best they give what a 2% increase in mileage??? less?? Not worth the money spent.

 

worth the money in my book, when i get 8 around town and 11 on the highway going slow and gradually building up speed!

[herculesinwyoming]

i like royal purple it is good, but it is expensive, when work picks back up i will go back to it.

 

i do 70 in my truck and it saves lots of mpg compared to 75 or 80.

 

 

the royal purple had over 12,000 miles with a filter change and top off in the middle of that, and it still drained out purple. Im broke right now and the truck only has 24,000 miles so im sure it didnt hurt it any to go that long on the royal purple.

[a.d._510_n_ok]

I've heard running a fuel cooler can add a couple MPG's. Not sure about the royal purple though. I buy whatever's on sale at Autozone, since my DD burns about a qt/week :lol:

 

pick ya up a bottle of this stuff to slow your burn:

 

 

it's so thick it makes STP Oil Treatment look like baby oil.

 

make damned sure engine is running and at operating temp if you use it though :lol:.

 

it's the only petroleum product I've ever used that Dawn dish soap won't wash off your fingers.

[datsunaholic]

A buddy runs Royal Purple in his Honda 1200.

 

Mind you, his Honda 1200 (from a late 70s CVCC) is in a 1L Mod Hydroplane. Pure race engine. He swears by it, only because he had the filter come off during a heat race and it put all 4 quarts in the bilge, and the engine is unharmed.

 

I wouldn't run it in a street car. WAY too expensive.

[HRH]

It all comes down to how much you love your car.

 

I'm running Royal Purple in the 510, and will soon be running it in the D21. When the Royal Purple guy came to our NAPA car show/tent sale, he brought a nifty little bearing tester with him. It's an electric motor with a cup that holds whatever oil you want to test, and bearings that are inserted for each test. It consists of a lever arm that has weight added to it, which then pushes the bearing against the wheel of the electric motor.

 

Just about every oil I watched, even my good Valvoline VR1 zinc additive oil, did about 3 weights before the bearing seized and grooved a line in it. Mobil One did 4 weights.

 

Royal Purple did 5 weights plus a bottle of Royal Purple on top of the weights, and then another bottle finally seized it. That kind of load bearing is impressive.

 

Another good thing is RP is still an SL oil, not an SM, like most of what Castrol now offers, sad to say. Great for newer motors with roller everything, not so great for older motors with iron banging on iron, like L motors. SL is the old formula with more metals that protect the engine parts. The new SM was formulated for newer cars and is supposed to be backwards compatible, but ehhh, not really.

 

After that demonstration, I was a believer. I was talkign to the RP rep, and he said you can run RP 7500 miles, just change your oil filter every 3000, which makes the extra cost viable for a street engine. That's what I'll be doing for the hardbody, the 510 will still be changed every other month or so, depending on how much autocross/rallycross I get in.

 

Oh, and NAPA has Royal Purple in stock now, you should develop a good relationship with your parts guy so you can get it cheaper than 9 dollar regular price. :) I'm out at the Airway Heights store now, so any Ratsuners coming out there, look me up.

[MAG58]

I just cant bring myself to spend that much per quart. I run Brad-Penn oil in all of my cars, and after one tear down with over 200k on the motor, it still looked like it was just put together. I'm all for using the right oil, but for the price of royal purple, I could change my cars with new brad-penn race oil twice.

[NorCalDime]

Ive heard soo much bad stuff about royal purple that it makes me weary of it.

 

Run Lucas, Amsoil, or Red Line.

Edited September 24, 2009 by NorCalDime

[nismo dr]

It all comes down to how much you love your car.

 

I'm running Royal Purple in the 510, and will soon be running it in the D21. When the Royal Purple guy came to our NAPA car show/tent sale, he brought a nifty little bearing tester with him. It's an electric motor with a cup that holds whatever oil you want to test, and bearings that are inserted for each test. It consists of a lever arm that has weight added to it, which then pushes the bearing against the wheel of the electric motor.

 

Just about every oil I watched, even my good Valvoline VR1 zinc additive oil, did about 3 weights before the bearing seized and grooved a line in it. Mobil One did 4 weights.

 

Royal Purple did 5 weights plus a bottle of Royal Purple on top of the weights, and then another bottle finally seized it. That kind of load bearing is impressive.

 

 

I've seen at least 1/2 dozen different oils/additives do similar demos - amazing how the product they are selling always wins:D

[NorCalDime]

I've seen at least 1/2 dozen different oils/additives do similar demos - amazing how the product they are selling always wins:D

 

exactly ;)

[HRH]

Ive heard soo much bad stuff about royal purple that it makes me weary of it.

 

Run Lucas, Amsoil, or Red Line.

 

 

If you go to Amsoil's website, their stuff is the best, but if I remember correctly Royal Purple is the only oil anywhere near close to Amsoil. :D

 

I'll let you guys know if anything goes wrong, but so far I love the oil.

[yello620]

Is amsoil that good? I have never tried it.

[HRH]

exactly ;)

 

To be fair, I did bring several bottles of oil off the shelf just because I didn't trust the demonstration. And really, you're not going to have that much direct weight on a part, if you do, the motor will fail anyway. I'm sure I could run Valvoline regular oil in the car for the next 100,000 miles and it would still be fine. But it works, I like it, it's still not that expensive, especially not at employee levels, so yeah, I'm sticking with it until I find something I don't like.

 

Oh yeah, and there is the saying, "You get what you pay for."

[HRH]

Is amsoil that good? I have never tried it.

 

My uncle runs a 600 hp road race 5.0 Mustang fox body, he swears by amsoil, and his motor cost about 10,000. So far, no failure.

[72240z]

I think the oil argument goes back further then most of us have lived. Most swear by their own. RP is good I know it 1st hand but throwing it in any motor besides one that's built for the track imho is a waste of money. Even running its 7k miles and only changing the filter and consequently topping it off, its just way more then ANY street car needs.

[hoov100]

lol, my old 52 willy's had nothing, but the cheapest and thickest oil i could find. Its on its 57'th birthday next june and has around 5-600k miles on an engine thats never even had its head off and it never leaked a drop of oil, barely consumed 1/8'th of a quart over 5k miles, no smoke, no ticks, no knocks, nothing, it fired up and took you where you needed to go, no bitching, moaning or complaints. I only wish i could buy it back from the guy i sold it to, he was going to do a resto on it, but it drove so good, he gave it to his wife to daily around town in.

 

[/heart_felt_moment]

[banzai510(hainz)]

I use regular oil and when really cheap Chevron oil.

 

most time Vavoline,Q state, Havoline Chevron .Union 76

 

The car motor will go bad due to lack of cking the oil than type of oil used. That what really kills most Datsuns. lazyness in cking water and oil.

 

 

I used the cheapest oil in my Banzai car at the end before the rear oil seal came off. 190k. Took crank to machine shop and say the crank just needs a Polish. then also another motor. just a polish. Shows more the quality of the crank than the oil used.

 

But nothing wrong with Synthetic. If car manfacture suggest it then use it. newer motors are designed for thinner oil to get the HP and milage ratings up

[OpelWagenGT]

I'm going to be ignorant and say that I have never heard of royal purple but I did run Mobile 1 fully synthetic in my opel Gt after we rebuilt the engine. In my 1200 I just run whatever conventional is on sale.

[datzenmike]

I've seen at least 1/2 dozen different oils/additives do similar demos - amazing how the product they are selling always wins:D

 

That's because it works for that test. Oil has to do way more than just protect the bearings. It has to handle heat and being diluted by by-products of the combustion process. It has to lube through a range of very hot and very cold conditions. It must resist foaming, and breakdown and protect against rust. The list goes on...

[nismo dr]

I saw one snake oil demo where they ran a motor minus oil pan for 30 min before it seized. - Went and got a closer look - the main caps were loose - nothing like a little extra clearance to sell your stuff

[datzenmike]

Saw one motor make 1,100 hp on the dyno without the oil pan on. I know it was a trick but did not see how it was done.

[fo0manchu]

I'll back Amsoil for sure. My brother uses it in his subaru wagon. My buddies use it in their track car which is a 240sx with sr20det. They use it in their bmw's. I used it when I had it in my montero. Checked oil after 10,000 miles and was still golden and clear. My other buddy actuall sent out oil samples after using them to a lab, and Amsoil had the least amount of carbon break down.

 

It does cost a good amount though. Thats why I don't use it. I go with Castrol. $10 bucks for 5 quart jug at Walmart or like $15-$17 for full synthetic. And just change my oil regularly. Can't beat that.