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sound deadening on a ratsun budget


jesusno2

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I have used dynamat, hushmat, and extreme. I have also rhinolined the interior of a SPL car after foaming hollow areas. Other than the smell, the roof patch is pretty much the same thing,except for the hushmat sticks like a bad rumor!! That crap will take your hide off if it gets on you :blink: Now the this is all just one step to quieting down your ride by stopping vibration in the metal, the next is insulation between the carpet and floor and up around the firewall to stop the sound itself. Jesusno2 is on the money with the sleeping pads, the cheap thinner ones work great, easy to cut to shape, bit of gorilla glue is my personal choice to make it stay.

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how many rolls would you estimate to do a single cab 620? Im going to do ceiling, door panels, fire wall, and a whole bunch on the floors, Im probably going to use multiple layers on the loudest areas like the floor and fire wall. How much will I need.

 

I think 3 should be enough for one layer.

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In all fairness enough layers of anything will make a big difference. I think whats most important is the cost/weight/durability. I caved and bought cheap purpose built stuff because of weight and durability.

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alright guys, i have absolutely no experience with dattos but i do happen to know a little sumsum about sound deadening. peal&seal is not good. it is asphalt based and WILL stink when it gets warm and WILL fall off at higher temps. melted asphalt in your dime probably wouldn't be pleasant.. so my solution is damplifier from ssa. it's anodized black instead of silver.. and instead of covering every inch of the interior with the p&s you need about 40% coverage on the middle of the panel to control resonance.. which results in less overall product and weight for all concerned. they also have damplifier lite which is what the title suggest.. lighter. but it is silver. i went a little overboard with my car :) but i digress. what i mean is the middle of the floor, roof or doors. anything else will only yield marginal gains. well worth the money. also there is a company called sounddeadenershowdown ran by a guy named don. don will tell you exactly what you need to hear, even if it means not buying his products. sorry that this is my first post but this is just about all i can contribute to this forum right now

 

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alright guys, i have absolutely no experience with dattos but i do happen to know a little sumsum about sound deadening. peal&seal is not good. it is asphalt based and WILL stink when it gets warm and WILL fall off at higher temps. melted asphalt in your dime probably wouldn't be pleasant.. so my solution is damplifier from ssa. it's anodized black instead of silver.. and instead of covering every inch of the interior with the p&s you need about 40% coverage on the middle of the panel to control resonance.. which results in less overall product and weight for all concerned. they also have damplifier lite which is what the title suggest.. lighter. but it is silver. i went a little overboard with my car :) but i digress. what i mean is the middle of the floor, roof or doors. anything else will only yield marginal gains. well worth the money. also there is a company called sounddeadenershowdown ran by a guy named don. don will tell you exactly what you need to hear, even if it means not buying his products. sorry that this is my first post but this is just about all i can contribute to this forum right now

 

 

 

Welcome! & thanks for the info :) I checked out Second Skin and the prices are actually quite reasonable! I personally Like the idea of a total body covering under my carpet so I'm thinking 20x'20' would be PLENTY to cover all of my 2Dr sedan and misc area's... At $60.00 its twice the peal & seal but well worth it sounds. The 'OVERKILL' Product sounds like the camping pads that were talked about earlier in this thread and is very cheap :) I was hoping to start sealing my dime this weekend but I think I'll hold off till I order some of this stuff!

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i wasn't sure if i was allowed to post links but i guess so! yes, overkill is closed cell foam and is meant to stop waves from passing through it. it is also water resistant so you can apply it to the door shell to stop both road noise and increase the midbass response of your speakers. the stick-on stuff is actually a vibration reducer and you need to use both of those products in combination with each other to get the maximum effectiveness. but any vibration reducing product that contains butyl rubber instead of asphalt is more effective and less messy. here's the sds link. like i said, if you want to know anything else, shoot him an email. he is always helpful and knows more about that stuff than i do. much more haha. seriously, just contact him if you have ANY questions about deadening. don't buy dynamat. it is twice the price of damplifier

http://sounddeadener...i-bin/index.cgi

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@ the last So. Cal (LA) swap meet I went to there was a guy selling a spray on stuff. Quiet car it might have been called? I need to find the paper.

 

I plan on rhino lining from the bottom of the windshield to the back of the hatch, door innards and inside the rear cargo areas. Was thinking about the roof too since its so long.

 

Figure since the car will be gutted. Do it before I paint it.

 

Thoughts?

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It's all bullshit but everyone has their own opinon I suppose that the whole trick to selling products like this is to scare ya into buying from them. My car sat out in the sun all summer the peal n seal never melted off. If it were on the roof of the car I might be a touch worried then. Think how damn hot a roof gets on a house. Either way what ever you buy the dampening mat is not what makes a car quiet its the closed cell foam that absorbs noise the mat is for vibration. I'm am just letting people know a way cheaper route without having to get suckerd into someones sales pitch. Another word of advise about deadning mat is buy more than you'll think your gonna need because wrong cuts get made, or ya drop a section in the dirt, not to metion how hard it is to get it up inside the doors without wadding it up (trust me on that one lol!)

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i did my whole car in a weekend.. and i spent 165 shipped on all of mine because of the awesome sales you snag from time to time. 60 sq feet of dynamat and a gallon (another 40sq feet) of the spray stuff. i have about 20 sq feet left of the mat and about 1/4 of the gallon left because it takes less material to do the same job, resulting in less weight. and butyl based adhesives don't stink like the asphalt does. my car smells the same as it did before the deadener

 

that's exactly what i said, ccf is what actually stops sound waves the mat stops vibrations. the mat does block some sound, but it's just the sounds made from the vibrations of the sheet metal. that's why you only need to cover half of the panels to curb resonance then glue the ccf over it to create a barrier.

 

you shouldn't buy more than you need.. even i overbought. don't worry about cutting it wrong. the shape of the material doesn't matter as long as you have sufficient coverage. if you drop it in the dirt, spray some brake cleaner on the adhesive side of the mat and wipe off. i had no problem putting mine in the doors withoput it wadding up.. the thicker foil of the damplifier stops you from making mistakes. it only bends when and where you want it to. if you're having trouble fitting it into the door cut the sheet into smaller pieces and apply with a screwdriver handle like so:

 

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if cost is really that much of an issue, buy 20 cld tiles from sds (highly recommended) or spl tiles from ssa. they're less than 2.50 a piece and they are 6"x10" these require 25% coverage for maximum effect. i didn't mean to 'advertise' i'm just telling you i have had experience with both p&s and vibration dampeners and the real stuff works better while using less material. the asphalt based stuff does stink when it gets hot and does tend to peel off in extremely hot temperatures and fall off when it gets cold.. in my experience. if you are really that strapped for cash, sign up for the ssa newsletter and wait till they send you a 10% or 15% off coupon

 

like i said man, i'm not trying to give you some sales pitch. just recommending products that have worked well for me

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  • 5 months later...

So this will be my second half to the sound deadning thread. Its been a long time (i know) but ive had many many other pressing issues. so i belive the pics say it all. As much as I fucking hate Wal-Mart I will admit I could not find it cheaper anywhere else (belive me i tried) 5.88 a roll. its about 6x3 I think about 1/2 thick so it doubles as carpet padding to water proof closed cell foam. Sorry for the lame cell pics.

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  • 1 year later...

i may try this home depot stuff today!. i might try putting it under my hood too to heep the carb noises down.

 

If you're going to try the peel n seal be careful with it under the hood like that, it really doesn't seem to like being upside down. I used this in my supra and had good success with it on the floor and side panels but when I used it on the underside of the hatch it started to fall off after time. I would think with the engine bay temps it would fall a lot faster.. just my experience with it though, results may vary I guess.

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I dunno if I would trust it upside down either hard saying really. (update) Ive had this stuff in my car for quite a bit, since I satarted this thread. its still stuck like hell on the insides of my doors etc and still soft.

 

 

What about the smell?

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I did the inside of my toyota truck with peel and seal over a year ago and it has performed well over time... No smell at all even on the hotest days and even with our extreme temp swings here in central oregon (as much as fifty degrees in a single day!)there are no adhesion issues whatsoever. I will be using this same product on the wagon when the time comes.

 

Later

Joel

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