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Everything posted by Zfighter76

  1. Do you think I could get some more info on the ign? Can you just unplug the injectors and tps and maf and it will work? Sorry I read the answers about it but would love some more info, I'm not very fluent with fuel injected cars or systems. Thanks!
  2. Do you think I could get some more info on the ign? Can you just unplug the injectors and tips and maf and it will work? Sorry I read the answers about it but would love some more info, I'm not very fluent with fuel,injected car or systems. Thanks!
  3. cool that's great info. I have yet to drive the car more than around the parking lot once or twice at my work because the car was in an accident and has no radiator or lights. im getting to fixing that now that its running good. ill start a build thread , ive been taking a ton of oics on this one haha
  4. would the alternator not working turn the fast idle on? and thanks again ratsun is always very helpful.
  5. good news! went back to oreillys and returned the alternator i just bough, turns out they had a remanufactured hitachi ir alternator in stock, so i swapped and it charges perfectly now, though i did have to go back again to get a different belt to fit. took her for a spin around the building at my work and she drives like a dream. before it idled a bit high and felt like it had a vaccum leak, i believe because the alternator was just free spinning, now that it has some load it runs completely different. thanks for the help guys!
  6. oh yeah and my door jamb reads 9/77 so its a 78 model year. off to get a new alt now.
  7. thanks guys, I believe the problem is that I have an externally regulated alternator on a car that should have an internally regulated one then. i tested continuity through the fusible links and they are fine. the door jamb does say 77' but again there is no external regulator to speak of and no connector for one. i will return to oreillys and return the external reg alt and head over to napa since it seems like they know what theyre doing a bit better. hopefully they can get me the correct alternator. ill post my findings after, thanks again!
  8. so I recently bought a 1978 b210, seller said just needs alternator. I replaced the alternator because I was stupid and believed him, and same problem, reads 12 volts when running with lights off, and it shuts off when I unplug the battery. the charge light works so that's not it, all fuses and connections are good, continuity to all wires. the thing I am most uncertain of is the alternator itself. it looks very similar to the hitachi unit that was on the car but one thing that I read is that 78+ b210s had internally regulated alternators. this makes sense because I found no voltage regulator or open connections for one anywhere. I just don't know if it had the wrong alternator in it when I bought it too, looks old but who knows how long it was not charging for. also the production date reads 77' but its registered as a 78'. any help? all wiring is original but good, checked continuity of all the wires ("bat" to battery, "e" to earth), and the battery is also new. wasn't sure how to test the "t" plug on the alternator though. thanks!
  9. turns out it was a stuck clutch disc, i dont have pictures because i used DanielC method of putting it in 4th with the e brake locked and bumping it, worked like a charm! will start a build thread soon, need to invest in a camera first, thanks for the help!
  10. i didnt use any parts from the l18 besides the master and slave. the 74 and up 4 speed looks identical to the z car 4 speed, mounted up perfectly with no driveshaft mods, just had to switch the z car male trans mount to the female l18 4 speed female mount
  11. the l16 was originally an auto but the person who sold me the engine put the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate from another l16 in, which was possibly from a 73 620 now that i think about it. other than that i put the throw out from the z car on, it seemed to fit perfectly and the clutch feels exactly how it did before which makes me believe that the pressure plate is correct. sounds like i have a stuck clutch disc. ill take some pics when i pull the motor back out, i hardly ever carry a load in my truck, besides my bicycle or car parts, my main purpose is just to drive around with good gas mileage and have fun in it. i think if i re-gear the diff to how the z car was it would be pretty cool, i got the z to 120 with the 4 speed and i probably wont ever go that fast again lol, i was a stupid 16 year old at the time. by collar do you mean the T/O bearing datzenmike?
  12. i mated the z car tranny to the l16 myself and checking the clutch for some reason didnt occur to me, but yes the motor has been outside for a couple months. i dont have any problem with taking it out i just wanted to get some ideas beforehand in case i mis matched parts that are not compatible. thanks for chiming in so quickly, i am just alittle frustrated because i ran into some snags with electrical and after finally firing it i cant drive :( anyways, it sounds like if all my parts are compatible than it is most likely a rusted clutch. once again just for clarification i am using a 280z 4 speed, and throw out bearing / clutch fork, 510 clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel, and stock 1974 slave cylinder and rod. i will most likely remove the engine and trans wednesday to fix the problem. also, any word on the gearing differences between the 280z 4 speed and the truck?
  13. so i recently bought another datsun 620, a '74 with an l18, the motor in it was leaking pretty bad from just about everywhere, i think the previous owner used the old gaskets when he put it together, anyways, because of this and that the 3rd gear slips out i decided to pull it and drop in my l16 and my 280z 4 speed. the trans worked perfect when i pulled it out of the z car and after some research i decided that it was the same length, and it actually appears to be the same tranny as my factory '74 620. the l16 is from a 510 and the clutch and pressure plate are also. i bolted it all together and had no issues, motor runs great, ect, but, after bleeding the clutch and ensuring that the fork was going through its full range of motion, i still cant put it in gear when running.? is there a specific combo i need to use to make things work? i have on hand a 280z clutch, flywheel, and my l18 throwout bearing and fork. i used the stock 510 clutch and pressure plate but did not disassemble to make sure they werent rusted. any ideas? the clutch feels normal, how it did before, and the fork seems to be moving the entire distance, but it will not disengage. also any info on the gearing differences between the z car 4 speed and the 74 truck 4 speed? i figured the z car would have longer gears or something. thanks!
  14. radim, where did you find your door window rain deflectors?, they look like vw bug ones but i cant tell for sure, thanks!
  15. so if i have a factory l18 4 speed 620 i can bolt the l28 flywheel to the l18? the last post sounded like the 1974 l18 crank has a 6 bolt flywheel.
  16. so, i just bought yet another datsun, this time a 1979 810 wagon. pics to come, i work alot this week so probably next week. it had a rood rack on it, i bellieve it was factory, and also these sluminum strips running from the front to the back of the car. i really dont like the roof rack on this car because to me it looks like an old mans lincoln with it so i removed it. no problems, but then i removed the eluminum strips and a big portion of the rood sagged down. i understand that the wagons have a massive roof and not much support underneat, and i can reach my hand in the car and with very light pressure pop the deant back out, but i wake up in the morning and it has sagged again. any suggestions as to what i can do to support it from the inside?? i was thinking metal strips on the inside tack elded on that have a curve to them to keep the shape. thanks!
  17. I have a 76' 280z sitting in my back yard that i dont have room for. the body itself is really straight, paint is horrid (from sitting in a high school auto shop for 20 years, spraypaint ect.) the car has 35k original miles so the motor is strong, and will start with an ignition, battery, fuel lines and rad hoses/belt. i have no paperwork which is why i am selling as a parts car or part out. interior condition is as follows. -no dash -no carpet -no headliner -have rear carpet, is in good shape, but has 3m weatherstrip glue stuck to it in a 2"x2" blob. -seats are in fantastic condition besides one small what appears to be cigarette burn in the drivers seat. Exterior: - have all body panels, very minor dents on drivers door/rear quarter window -have all glass except door window. all windows were broken out and i replaced all except door windows. -have bumpers, dont have the mounts ect. paint is half spraypainted with japanese writing on tailgate and pass. side. panels are straight. Engine: -everything is there besides fuel hoses, hose clamps, rad hoses, rad cap, fuel filter, ect. runs strong when the car was running it ran smooth (i have a video of it running) -currently not running because aforementioned parts missing (robbed for my old 620 project, fuel line is expensive haha) -transmission is in amazing shape, all gears are amazingly smooth, i replaced the shifter bushings when i was going to put the trans in my 620 but never got around to it. Suspension: -everything is there and stock, 1.25 coils cut on the front struts. stainless brake lines. other things missing, turn signal mechanism, just replaced window wiper/lights mechanism but lights dont work due to them grounding through the turn signal switch(figures). Anyways. prices, im not sure on, let me know what you want ill let you know what i want for it. if someone can come pick up the whole thing i'll let it go for 700 ish, but if you want to separate the parts it'll be more. i'll give it away for a good price if it all goes in one. CALL AT (562)794-3471 -Evan. Located in long beach near california state university long beach. CLICK PICTURE OF TACHOMETER TO SEE IT RUN!! Please dont ask if you can 1.) drive it home, or 2.) if you can register it, 1.)No, its not currently running/registered 2.)i dont know i have no paperwork and thats why i am selling as a parts car. (could make it a track car if you want).
  18. That is literally the only thing that I know, I'm not even writing this because I don't know how or how to form words.
  19. 240z, 260z, 280z don't have knuckles, macpherson struts, that's all I know haha
  20. Beams are a different deal, you have to build in the camber and caster adjustments into the beams.
  21. 2 espensive mang. I can get econoline beams for what, hundred bucks for the whole setup? Haha. I dunno, I might just leave it alone and pick up a baja bug or somethin, who knows
  22. Cool thanks for the help, I'm really considering doing a rivited sheet metal bulge in the firewall so I don't have to weld and still have somewhat easy access to the rear of the engine just in case. Also I'm wanting to do a floor mount pedal setup which could make the brake cylinder issue non existant, now the problem becomes my legs being too long and being uncomfy, which leads me to raising the seat to extend my legs. I'm only 5'9" or so so the ceiling shouldn't be such a problem. Also I wanna move the steering wheel toward the fireall a bit. Cost always exceeds expectations, you're completely correct, many a time have I started a project with "more than enough money" and not finished until 3 paychecks later
  23. Yup. Ibeams it is I guess, best route. I've decided on for econoline link pin equal length I beams for ease of install, plus its symetrical which is nice for fabbing. That'll give me (if mounted stock distance apart from the for econoline) six inches wider per side than a ranger, about. Ill have them bent to lift and accomidate for camber. Thatll get me a capable setup, or at least have me on my way.
  24. Oh yeah just btw, it wasn't google lol ;P I've just had to convince people so many times that didn't understand how something heavier could fall at the same speed, even teachers, plus I think its interesting, but enoug of that :P
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