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RESURRECTION of SHORTY 75


PtheDude

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IT HAS BEGUN!!!

 

Hood is off! Radiator is out, fan is off! It's going to be interesting finding my way thru the issues of putting a 79 engine into a 75. Like the coolant over flow, or for that matter the radiator. Do I need the 79 radiator, or can I run with mine? My 75 truck is in REALLY good shape. Its really clean, radiator looks nearly new.

 

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2007-9-18009.jpg

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Still looking for input on the best clutch kit. Is it worth the money to put in a $200 centerforce?

 

Put a post in engine area about the friggin top bolt, looks like I need to pull the entire thing at once.

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IT HAS BEGUN!!!

 

Hood is off! Radiator is out, fan is off! It's going to be interesting finding my way thru the issues of putting a 79 engine into a 75. Like the coolant over flow, or for that matter the radiator. Do I need the 79 radiator, or can I run with mine? My 75 truck is in REALLY good shape. Its really clean, radiator looks nearly new.

 

 

The rad should switch but if the old one is good, keep it and save the '79. Keep the coolant recovery and overflow catch can and use on the '75 . You have to use the '79 rad cap to make this system work if your '75 does not have it. If the clutch fan is firm when you twist it against the pulley (not too loose nor seized tight) leave it for now, it's in working condition. You can mess with an electric set up later.

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Bought stock clutch. should be good enuff.

 

Bah, J2 came over, said I have a smog head on the 79, with the rusty tubes all over it. Round port head, not much I can do in the way of manifold, I gather.

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Only problem there is the port configuration- round to square, which makes the gasket have sealing issues over time (it does work, temporarily at least. I've seen some last years). Me, I used the stock '78-79 exhaust manifold with the air injection tubes removed (welded up on one, replaced with setscrews on the other) and a L16 intake on one. Of course, the L16 intake runners are smaller, so there's a size mismatch there too. On my 4X4 I have an EGR manifold block-off plate that has a PCV valve port built-in, which makes the stock '78-80 intake manifold work.

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He should be able to just bolt up his exhaust to the smog manifold to get it running. Both manifolds have the same flange at the pipe.

 

Paul, I would just swap the motor, manifolds and all, and run it. Then get the other motor rebuilt. That way you can use the truck for what you got it for and will have a good motor waiting in the wings.

 

...and it's redeye ;)

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I chopped the liners out of a head I had using a chisel and vice grips. Best if the head is off and valves out but took about 20 min per port. Filed down the little 'nubs' that hold it away from the port walls so it will glow hot when running. Really opened it up!

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mmmm notchback....

 

Drain the tranny to save yourself a spill when you pull it. Oil will run right out of it where the driveshaft used to plug the hole.

 

You can take the antifreeze to the hazardous waste transfer station.

http://www.govlink.org/hazwaste/house/disposal/AnyProduct.cfm?entityID=906&catID=974

 

I like the new avatar :P

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Thanks Redeye / Mike.

 

damn that's smart. I wonder if doug has a driveshaft he'd let go...

 

nahhh. probably not.

 

I don't have the gear to replace the damn tranny fluid with. DAMNIT this "new hobby" is freaking EXPENSIVE.

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plastic tube $2, funnel $1 :) that's my equipment to add fluid

 

Some engine hose - $0, tightly fitted into the neck of a plastic 1.5 liter Coke bottle with bottom cut off - lost deposit 25 cents. Hold Coke funnel upright, feed hose down through the shifter hole and into the filler hole in tranny, add oil. Clean up mess. Note to self: use two people next time. Steal Coke bottle.

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