RESURRECTION of SHORTY 75

[PtheDude]

Well, I am about to begin yanking the assed out engine and 4 speed from my 75 short and putting in the engine and tranny from my 79 parts truck.

 

Is it easier to pull the tranny out with the engine all at once, like the manual's state? What are the top 10 things I need to be aware of that might bite me in the ass?

 

why kill a 79 KC for a 75 short? Well, its red for one... I paid a shitload of money for it 2...

[RacnJsn95]

I don't know the real answer to that question, but if I would have known there was a 4 speed in my 4x4 at the time I was doing the new engine, I would have pulled the old engine and trans out at the same time, and re-installed the new engine with the 5 speed attached.

 

Not sure about yours, but on mine, it looks like a PITA to get the trans out with the engine in place, but if you're taking it all out anyway, erither way should be fine.

 

I can't think of anything that would bite you in the ass, just take your time, make sure everything is unbolted, etc. If you're going to pull it all out in one piece, it might be a good idea to get a "load leveler" from harbor freight or something. You know, the thing with the crank, that will tilt the engine forward and back. It would be helpful if you plan to leave them attached.

[OL YELLER]

Is it easier to pull the tranny out with the engine all at once, like the manual's state? What are the top 10 things I need to be aware of that might bite me in the ass?

 

Well in my recent attempt, I decided to do it the easy way..........I took out my handy dandy die grinder and radiac wheel and removed the center section of the radiator support...and pulled the trans out with the engine....installing the L20b and 5 speed was even easierIMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n275/ronkelley/truckeenaked.jpg[/img]

[OL YELLER]

http://s114.photobucket.com/albums/n275/ronkelley/?action=view&curr

 

hope this shows up

[tnip]

 

there ya go buddy.

 

damn that engine bay is clean.

 

did you just weld that piece back in place afterwards?

[datzenmike]

What are the top 10 things I need to be aware of that might bite me in the ass?

 

Disconnect the battery!!! You don't want the starter to weld itself to the frame when you remove it.

 

Drain the transmission and save yourself the trouble of an oil spill cleanup when the drive shaft comes out and/or you tilt it up to remove. It's marginally lighter too.

 

Don't forget to remove the speedo cable, the wiring for the reverse lights from the transmission, and the X member bolts. And the engine mounts!

 

Remove the clutch slave cylinder and wire it out of the way. I had to tape mine up so the piston wouldn't pop out.

 

Remove the shifter by removing the C clip and pin. Put the pin and C clip back on the shifter and leave it all in the cab, so you can find it later.

 

Remove throttle cable, vacuum line to brake booster, carb idle cut solenoid and choke heater.

 

Remove rad and the plastic fan... duh, and if possible the distributor cap and wires, so they don't get smashed lifting the engine out. Disconnect the hose to the charcoal cannister.

 

Remove temp sender wire, distributor power wire, and the wiring to the alternator (did you remove the battery cables like I said at the beginning? You do not want these wires touching anything!)Remove the oil pressure sender wire

 

Disconnect the fuel line and return line.

 

Disconnect the exhaust down pipe and both heater hoses.

 

Thats at least ten

[Icehouse]

Mike said it all. I always forget the shifter.. When you remove the fuel lines don't forget to plug them. Once I lowered the truck back down and left for the night I came back to a huge mess! The front was just low enough. It might of been a dime though I can't rember :)

[OL YELLER]

 

there ya go buddy.

 

damn that engine bay is clean.

 

did you just weld that piece back in place afterwards?

 

NO what I did was added two 3/8th thick pieces (welded on the underside) to the piece I took out (one on each side) drilled and tapped, then positioned it in place and drilled the holes to match in the remaining support..you then put it in place and bolt it back in solid (and removable again if need be) very solid.....as for the engine bay...that is two very intense days of brushing cleaning brushing some more, sanding and then painting...did the same thing with my Yeller truck a few years ago....

 

http://s114.photobucket.com/albums/n275/ronkelley/?action=view&current=fixedit.jpg

[OL YELLER]

 

here it is bolted in......I will try to get a photo of the piece back side to showw the welded area

[OL YELLER]

 

I believe that did it.....................

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Nice engenuity Ron..alot easier than replacing the whole core support [been there done that] :rolleyes:

[PtheDude]

Remove the clutch slave cylinder and wire it out of the way. I had to tape mine up so the piston wouldn't pop out.

 

Mike, where is the clutch slave cylinder?

 

No one's yet difinitively told me,

 

YES tranny with engine.

 

Or

 

NO, unbolt the tranny, pull engine first.

 

What is the very best CLUTCH I can put into a L20b with 79 5 speed?

[ppeters914]

where is the clutch slave cylinder?

 

Usually bolted near the front of the tranny. Just follow the tubing/hose from the clutch master cylinder.

 

No one's yet definitively told me,

 

YES tranny with engine, or

 

NO, unbolt the tranny, pull engine first.

 

Haven't done it on a Datto, but my limited experience and everything I've read says YES, pull 'em as one unit.

 

What is the very best CLUTCH I can put into a L20b with 79 5 speed?

First, define BEST, and then review this thread:

 

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=928

[PtheDude]

Lol, yes I was reading the L god clutch post. I'm going to put a 620 clutch in it, I was just wondering if there is a manufacture that makes a hardcore / heavy duty clutch.

 

Napa will likely have a few types, which is best? opinions?

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Centerforce may make a high performance clutch disk for the L tranny's/motors.

[datzenmike]

Remove the clutch slave cylinder and wire it out of the way. I had to tape mine up so the piston wouldn't pop out.

 

Mike, where is the clutch slave cylinder?

 

No one's yet difinitively told me,

 

YES tranny with engine.

 

Or

 

NO, unbolt the tranny, pull engine first.

 

What is the very best CLUTCH I can put into a L20b with 79 5 speed?

 

Passenger side down low and to the side near the torsion bar and just behind the starter. It will have a rubber flex line on it coming from the frame and a rod with rubber boot on the other end, connected to the clutch arm.

 

I always remove tranny first so I don't know if it's easier the other way or not. I also have a 4" lift on the body so there's lots of room to get at the engine bolts and I don't have torsion bars in the way either.

 

Although somewhat rare, if you can get a 6 bolt 200mm flywheel you could use a stock Roadster clutch. Probably the ultimate stock Nissan clutch BUT extremely stiff for use on a daily driver. It will likely blow out your old slave cylinder. For average use any 225mm clutch is fine or you could move up to a 240mm flywheel and matching clutch from a 4X4 720 '80 to '86? Just remember the the clutch size has to match the flywheel bolt pattern. The L20B is 225mm.

[OL YELLER]

I bought the 225mm clutch kit from Rockauto.com..(look under "77) (actually the 79 is the same also........the kit comes with everything!..Throwout Bearing AND Collar....................think it was about 150 bucks or something..good for a daily driver...(use "centerforce" if you are gonna abuse the clutch tho..)

[OL YELLER]

Nice engenuity Ron..alot easier than replacing the whole core support [been there done that] :rolleyes:

 

Mark..if you remember I showed you that I had done the same thing on my Yellow truck..(replaced the entire core support)..all neatly bolted back in place (instead of welded)...just decided to give this a try...Man sliding that engine and trans in there together is so sweet...you almost don't need a hoist to do it...cause it just goes straight in!!!...........

[PtheDude]

this the rockforce clutch?

 

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0619111

225mm Diameter;1 Per Car;Release Bearing Hub Not Included

Clutch Set, 225mm Diameter;8-7/8" Diameter;24 Splines;Release Bearing Hub Not Included;1 Per Car

 

where can I buy the centerforce?

[OL YELLER]

this the rockforce clutch?

 

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0619111

225mm Diameter;1 Per Car;Release Bearing Hub Not Included

Clutch Set, 225mm Diameter;8-7/8" Diameter;24 Splines;Release Bearing Hub Not Included;1 Per Car

 

where can I buy the centerforce?

 

Centerforce...I Believe that Summit racing has that clutch

I just looked at the Rockauto site...and I do not see the clutch kit I installed this past june listed anymore.....It was the same kit listed..(not Beck Arnley but a 225mm clutch kit WITH the t/o bearing and collar......don't know what the deal is now...

[PtheDude]

So the intake manifold on the 79's all rusty, and its got the big smog thing bolted to it still. My 75 has an interesting mod for removing. look at the pics. Whose got a clean intake, or should I steal it from the 75 engine? while your there, which carb is the one I have? what does the 5A stand for?

 

http://picasaweb.google.com/Lysakers/EngineQuestions

[tnip]

that carb is a weber 32/36 DGV it means the diameters of the barrels are 32 and 36 mm and DGV is manual choke, where DGAV is electric. am i right about that one guys?

 

what's this mod that impressed 'aholic?

 

do you need to pass an emissions test?

 

OLYELLER- damn man, that's a sweet setup.

[ppeters914]

Damn, and I thought mine was ugly. Can you take some better pics on how the manual choke & cable are setup? I need to do that on mine so I don't have to hold the butterfly w/ one hand while turning the key with the other. :rolleyes:

[PtheDude]

the engine and tranny from the buttugly 79 are going into the clean 75. God willing.

 

http://picasaweb.google.com/Lysakers/Datsun75Shorty

[datzenmike]

So the intake manifold on the 79's all rusty, and its got the big smog thing bolted to it still. My 75 has an interesting mod for removing. look at the pics. Whose got a clean intake, or should I steal it from the 75 engine? while your there, which carb is the one I have? what does the 5A stand for?

 

http://picasaweb.google.com/Lysakers/EngineQuestions

 

Someone has removed the EGR on the '75, but then had to make something up in order to run the PCV valve which is very necessary. I think that the EGR manifold should be left on so that you don't have to cobble something together for the PCV. If you don't want EGR why not just disconnect it? People rip these things off and it doesn't run any better and it just makes work to fix them.

 

Stick the '79 into the '75 and keep all the 'smog stuff' It'll work just fine.