My 1971 521!

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Awesome news..the L motors are hard to kill!

[hang_510]

wOO hOO! :cool:

i just resurected a sitting 10yr car too. wait till you get it out on the road :D

 

 

 

for the wiring (blinkers/horn): check each connection for corrosion, clean regardless, put NEW fuses in (dont reuse the old)

[fisch]

wOO hOO! :cool:

for the wiring (blinkers/horn): check each connection for corrosion, clean regardless, put NEW fuses in (dont reuse the old)

 

 

I will totally change the fuses, thanks for the suggestion. They looked ok under visual inspection, but who knows what they are like at the ends. Last time I tried the horn, I heard a clicking sound up front as if it wanted to sound, but nothing.

 

I will add a bit of text here from another thread I have going in the Engine section. Prolly better suited for my main thread.

 

"I still have to figure out the brakes and clutch. (Pedals go to floor, and cups are empty) before I can drive. Not to mention eventually fixing the gas tank (leak), and finding out why the blinkers and horn do not work (will need that to pass inspection.) I haven't even started looking into those yet. But I will shout if I need some help!

 

Tonight I smile for it has a heartbeat!"

[shane_lxi]

Sweet! The first 521 I bought this month had been sitting for 9 years!! The L20 started right up after fixing a fuel delivery issue :D. Cant wait to drive it :D.

[fisch]

Sweet! The first 521 I bought this month had been sitting for 9 years!! The L20 started right up after fixing a fuel delivery issue :D. Cant wait to drive it :D.

 

I hear you Shane! I'd love to get this on the road before the snow flies and I put it up for the winter.

[tnip]

as far as brakes and clutch, without any fluid they won't do anything and go directly to the floor. have you filled them to check for a leak?

 

also, good to hear you got it to run. always nice to hear about another datsun being fired up again.

[73super]

More Pics! For now I might try to naturally lower the front a little. No major mods, at least for a while. There was a gray truck on Mini truckin that is a good example of what I'd like. But with different paint. If I find the link I will post it.

 

Has the lighter, tool bag and jack handles. Non locking gas and glove box. Original rims were in the bed. What is a keyed antenna?

 

Headliner is fantastic as are visors. Seat would have been perfect, except for those darn chipmunks making a nest right in the center!

 

I am in Belchertown MA. New England is a hard place for a Datsun fan, and I was psyched to find a body in this condition. The bed had a cap, so it is in great shape. Originally a Texas truck.

 

She has been garaged for 10 years, and not started. But other than carb troubles and a leaky gas tank, the owner said she ran fine before parking. I figured the risk of some engine/ brake/ clutch work was worth it for a local truck in such good shape. Plus I couldn't argue with the price. Scored her for $250+ a uhaul to get her home!

 

If you do get in your storage, I'd totally be interested in your glove box. Also any leads on a dash or a company that makes a nice dash cap would be great!

 

Scott

 

 

 

 

 

 

I love that truck! Looks totally old school.. I wouldn't change a thing appearance wise.. that's sooo cool!

[73super]

Love the Mobil Drop logo. I'd try to keep it or maybe repro it on the new paint job.... :D

 

Yes, keep it.. don't repaint! That thing has history. Do all the performance mods you want.. but I personally, would leave that irreplaceable patina. Gorgeous truck.. would look great with wide whites! :cool:

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Brakes & clutch...been there/done that on my 320. Fill both the brake & clutch masters & bleed & see if it holds. If it doesnt you may have a bad master, bad wheel cylinder, or defective brake hoses. On the clutch if it doesnt hold replace the clutch slave & gravity bleed it [by yourself,easy] & it should be good. It's a generic approach but a good way to start, i mean the shoes may need replacing & or there may be other problems but try adding fluid/bleeding 1st before spending $ & replacing parts.

[fisch]

Yes, keep it.. don't repaint! That thing has history. Do all the performance mods you want.. but I personally, would leave that irreplaceable patina. Gorgeous truck.. would look great with wide whites! :cool:

 

The paint had some serious flaking issues. (Color will actuallly come off on your sponge if you wash it and easily scratches with fingernail.) And some exposed metal w/ surface rust. So I have had to wire brush spots. I am hoping the red primer I get will be a close match. If nothing else, it will add to the ratty look!

 

Thanks for the advise on the brakes and clutch. I need all the help I can get! Don't worry about insulting my knowlege of the basics, cause I know nothing! This is my truck to learn everything I never learned about cars.

[Pacific coast Datsun]

No worries, just go slow & ask questions. Pics help alot too :D

[73super]

The paint had some serious flaking issues. (Color will actuallly come off on your sponge if you wash it and easily scratches with fingernail.) And some exposed metal w/ surface rust. So I have had to wire brush spots. I am hoping the red primer I get will be a close match. If nothing else, it will add to the ratty look!

 

Thanks for the advise on the brakes and clutch. I need all the help I can get! Don't worry about insulting my knowlege of the basics, cause I know nothing! This is my truck to learn everything I never learned about cars.

 

Just shoot a coat of flat clear over it when it's warmer. That thing has a look you won't be able to ever get back.. Of course it's your truck and I know what it's like when you have a ton of ideas running through your head. If you do decide to paint.. take tons of pics and send them to me please.. maybe I'll try and duplicate it sometime.. I like it that much...~! :D

[fisch]

Happy to report both the horn and the blinkers are working now! Funny I was looking all over the place for a loose wire, blown fuse, etc. Then as a last ditch effort I took a little sandpaper to the blinker arm switch, and the horn contact. That is all it was, oxidized metal! Hell it was so oxidized that what I thought was brass actually was steel underneath there!

 

Also discovered the AC fan is still hooked up so I can get a little breeze even though the ac pump is not hooked up.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Fill the brake and clutch masters and start bleeding the system.

From right rear then up front for the brakes.

 

I got my masters from Rockauto.com or Napa. Didnt cost that much 50$ or so for the brake master single resivoir.

 

Since its so old the rubber might be tdried out so Be ez on it if your going to drive it cause they still might blow out.

 

I bleed my own brakes by using a clear plastic bottle and a LONG clear tube that fit over the nipple. I will fill the res then loosing the bleed screw then pump the brakes. Keep the tube at the bottom of the bottle so as the bottle fills up when you let off the brakes, the fluid once the bubbles are all gone might suck up a little back but since all the bubbles are gone then close the bleed screw. This works for me and I dont use any other type of brake bleed tool tools. This can be done with the Clutch also.

[fisch]

I bleed my own brakes by using a clear plastic bottle and a LONG clear tube that fit over the nipple. I will fill the res then loosing the bleed screw then pump the brakes. Keep the tube at the bottom of the bottle so as the bottle fills up when you let off the brakes, the fluid once the bubbles are all gone might suck up a little back but since all the bubbles are gone then close the bleed screw. This works for me and I dont use any other type of brake bleed tool tools. This can be done with the Clutch also.

 

 

Is this a solo method? Do you just keep pumping a zillion times till the bubbles are out from within the cab? And because of the long tube, the air won't travel back in?

 

I thought someone had to tighten the valve down while the pedal was pressed? AKA Loosen valve, pump 5 times, (or is it pump 5 times, then loosen valve?) hold pedal down, tighten valve, release pedal, repeat?

 

I know the basic instructions are in Haynes, so I am sure I can look it up, but a solo method might be more convienent!

 

I remember my dad having me help him do this when I was a kid. All I can remember is a sore leg afterward!

[73super]

Is this a solo method? Do you just keep pumping a zillion times till the bubbles are out from within the cab? And because of the long tube, the air won't travel back in?

 

I thought someone had to tighten the valve down while the pedal was pressed? AKA Loosen valve, pump 5 times, (or is it pump 5 times, then loosen valve?) hold pedal down, tighten valve, release pedal, repeat?

 

I know the basic instructions are in Haynes, so I am sure I can look it up, but a solo method might be more convienent!

 

I remember my dad having me help him do this when I was a kid. All I can remember is a sore leg afterward!

 

I always find some kind of a stick or dowel and stick it between the gas pedal and seat (depressed). Then I go under the truck and loosen the bleed valve. I do this back and forth until I've done all the wheels. Takes a little while, but I don't require anybody else around to bleed the brakes and it seems to do the job.

[Bleach]

I gravity bleed my brakes. Its a solo method and works perfect. I usually do the front two at the same time, then the back two.

[fisch]

I gravity bleed my brakes. Its a solo method and works perfect. I usually do the front two at the same time, then the back two.

 

Just did a quick google to see what you were talking about Bleach. I've never heard of this. (Not surprising) So literally it is as easy as opening the valves, filling the cup, coming back in 20 min, toping off the cup, tighten up valve. First for back, then repeat for front?

 

Seem to be alot of folks out there who swear by this method.

[banzai510(hainz)]

This is the way I do it.

 

I never tried the gravity method as once Im doing it Im gonna finnish it and not come back again.

 

Its a bit of a pain since I got to get up and refill the resivior often but it works for me.

Yes the long tube is so the bubbles to get back to the cylinder. Dont have to be to long. over 12 inches should be OK. Just depends if the end pops up in the bottle if its not full enough.

 

 

Be nice and have your wife push the pedal and refill the res while your under the truck ,521 is a 11mm bleed screw 510 are 10mm. Why I dont know !!!

 

 

I seen the hand pump brake bleeders but never liked them.

[73super]

 

 

I seen the hand pump brake bleeders but never liked them.

 

 

 

Agreed... Don't like those either. Never did a real great job for me. :mad:

[]2eDeYe]

For solo bleeding, these are the best investment you can make...

 

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

[ppeters914]

Here's how to make your own power bleeder:

 

http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

[banzai510(hainz)]

the last 2 photos on that link is my method