Stupid_fast

A very useful guide! Thank you! I have run out of funds and have to get my suspension sorted out before I continue with the R1 swap, but I will post here when I finish it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAoH96IEZx4

yup, it was out too far because of oversized o-ring... runs better now. edit, runs way better now.

HAINZ, I was just messing with my DGEV, I pulled the idle cut solenoid, removed the hardware store o-ring I got and screwed it in until it bottomed out(NOT tightening past that) runs 50% better!!! Maybe it was causing fuel to drip ...? Its worth a try! Off to go for a test drive...

It is not adjustable, you have to buy a new nozzle for it... it has a number stamped onto it with the size.

I fell asleep with my eyes open driving once. woke up 10 seconds later in another lane. Scared the shit out of me. I use mr. bean method, toothpicks to hold eyes open! Everybody I know think I'm such a great driver it almost annoys me.. Lucky my datsun is so loud it keeps me more focused.

240sx suspension?????? Could probably get a wicked steering angle with that.

Jeep!??!! Get a hold of yourself, man! At least a 90's toyota.

Nope, both of em where tight. That happened to me before!! I made sure it didn't happen again... I always get it nice and snug!!

AFAIK the cam is stock, then again I don't know anything about the motor besides the fact it was rebuilt. I will measure the cam and see if it is stock. There is no brake booster.(ha, who needs power brakes anyway?) I was busy helping a friend with headgasket over the weekend, I will check the timing like you described tomorrow. Timing was last set @ 15btdc at 1000rpm w/ vac advance plugged. Float I've tried adjusting it many, many times and have found the best setting is weber spec of 35/41. Fuel pressure I have no idea, I still have to get a FPR and gauge. Pump is new(3000 miles by now) Kyosan. Yes it runs fine higher RPM with deeper throttle, can get on it while passing on the freeway like 4000rpm wot no problem. Drives nice cruising speed 3500rpm ~70mph no matter how steep the hill never have to downshift. Stall issue is still there, its just improved a little by rejetting. I'm still trying to figure out a pattern to when it does it. It seems random to me right now! I am also interested in whats causing this, I want to figure it out before I swap a new carb setup! Also when driving to help my friend this weekend, like 80 miles freeway when I got there and driving around town it started running badly, didnt want to idle well, really rough, ect. Before I took the freeway home I found the timing had been advanced a ton(even though dizzy was at the same position when I timed it last!). I retarded it a ton tuned by ear and it ran great, less stalling ect got home fine. I still have to dig in and figure out what caused it to get so advanced. Thanks for the help, I will time it more accurate tomorrow and try to find out more.

Its Friday, aint' got no job, aint' got shit to do!

Yeah I pulled out the cams & re oiled them(probably should not have... kinda useless) when I did the HG. I'll check the torque, its been running perfect for the past few days I'd like to keep it that way. I always keep mine full of oil, I don't let it get under 1/2 level on the dipstick if I can help it. Only time I ran LOWW on oil was 3000 mile trip to canada and back .. dipstick was an E when I got back.(stupid me forgot to check the oil levels during the trip... even though I BROUGHT oil with me ollz) Thanks.

I thought I'd just bump this rather than creating a new topic. So I got a jetting kit for the 32/36 as I would like to get it running decent before I start really modding. At first since the plugs kept getting blankened/carbon fouled after a while I thought the carb was probably too rich, so I lowered the primary jet from 140 to 130, this made it run worse hesitation was terrible to the point I could barely get going from a stop. I pulled it back apart and upped the jet sizes, put the primary's at 150-180 and now it runs a lot better, after that I decreased the primary air corrector from 160 to 150, which made it run even better. Current jetting has ended up at(with only tweaking it a few times), Primary's 150/180 AIr corrector's 150/170 Idles 60/50 There is less hesitation, better response and power through the whole rev band, but this does not make sense to me as it seems like really large jetting for an L20b. It sounds and smells like its running really rich. Anyone got any more ideas or tips for me to try to pinpoint this problem? I've turned my attention back to the ignition system but I don't know what else I can try. The main problem is the carb leaning out under some conditions, I went 2nd gear WOT to 5,000 RPM, 3rd- 4th going uphill holding at like 4,000 rpm for about 10 seconds, went off the freeway and it would not idle. It kept leaning out and dying, it does this sometimes on hills, while braking, coasting to a stop, ect. Ideas? Now that its rejetted it usually does not stall anymore but its still not running right. Has a hard time revving up for downshifts if I'm not careful. I've pulled out the carb a few weeks back and completely blasted it out with carb cleaner... reassembled and no change. I ordered a few sets of cheapo NGK plugs to replace the fouled out ones(gone through 2 sets of $7 plugs already). Thanks.

My office holliday party just happens to reside on the same day at the same time at an open bar.

Can't make it... Damn holiday parties.

Yup, I will eventually but it seems to be running perfect now ... No abnormal noises. I'll just keep on babying it while its cold like I've been doing for the past 2 years. I've always wanted a GTE 5spd in it flared crazy with negative offset rims ... maybe someday. For now it works well enough. Noise was coming from the valve cover. Alt bolts are good. Idler bearing? I'll look into it. Thanks for the help.

I just started it up and its running perfectly... No knocking, smooth idle, like nothing happened. Suggestions? Possibly just the start of future engine problems? 7MGTE is on my mind.

no idea... lifter could be sticking. I'll find some info on how to check it. There is no oil pressure gauge, no oil light on, no CEL .. no idea how much oil pressure.

Hey all, yesterday I started up my 92 toyota cressida and it started a rough idle and bad ticking/knocking noise from the valvetrain, it does not sound like rod knock. The car has 135k miles, its been running strong for the past 2 years I did the whole top end gaskets/head gasket at 125k miles. The only problem is it burns/loses oil slowly but I keep it filled up, oil was changed less than 500 miles ago i changed from valvoline standard to the premium stuff. The last time I drove the car was on sunday, I drove about 150 miles total with no problems. I never push this card when its cold, I barely get over 2500rpm before its completely warmed up. This morning I started it up to try to get more info on it, it started up the same way really rough and ticking/knocking from the valvetrain. Not very loud but very noticeable, I warmed it up and revved it a little and it started going away, the idle smoothed out and the knock/ticking noise is mostly gone but still there is ticking coming from the valvetrain. These are non-adjustable valves . Any ideas? Is it the cam bearings? valves? Should I start considering changing the motor? Thanks.. I'm not going to drive it until I know whats wrong. .