Stupid_fast

After driving a bit check your dipstick, make sure no air pressure is released. Get a real PCV valve.. they are like $3 from rockauto. Spliced wiring? Check voltage on ignition coil, mine was running at 7v due to some high gauge wire going to the tach. Ran a bit better after fixing it. How does it run overall? Does it idle smooth? I've seen L20b local the other day that ran perfect.. no wobble on idle, valves are silent, ect... thats how these should run! ADjusting valves hot is a pain.. I adjusted one exhaust valve, moved onto the other one and finished it, checked the first one and the clearance had already changed from cooling! I'm going to do two at a time and get em just right next time I can work on it.

Ahh I love boso! mild, that is... I am definitely going to throw an oil cooler on mine when I get the chance. Looks good.

I've tried adjusting warm, I've tried adjusting cold, I don't know. Gonna try it again and again until I get it right I guess. Nothing has been fixed, the hesitation is reduced a ton from what it was from jetting, but the stalling issues are still there and still very bad. It just wants to die out when rolling, when I'm at a stop it will stop stalling and just idle terribly ... I have the idle set at 1k rpm, while rolling sometimes randomly the idle will just dip to 500rpm and even below .. when I pull up to a stop it will correct itself sometimes.

I lowered by flattening out the leaf springs(flipping the 4th leaf onto the top of the pack) which raised up the shock perch and the axle toward the chassis, this means I have about 1-2" less shock travel than stock. With lowering blocks it moves the axle upwards towards the chassis, where as the shock perch and leaf are at the same position and distance from the chassis. I don't think that my shocks where the correct application for a 510 wagon, and where for an IRS sedan, that would be why they had so little travel. AFAIK the KYB AGX is still a great upgrade option for the stock shock mounting location. They are $96/each from summit racing. Yes, they are completely bolt-on identical fitment to the stock shocks.

15x7 0 with 195-55's, rub in the back if you don't roll fenders. I rolled the fenders and have no problems. Fronts should stop rubbing once I have my ZX struts in.

My car still runs like shit, lol. Try adjusting the valves until they are perfect... I've been working on it and apparently I really suck at valve adjustments. I went to a local meet and that's the advice I got from the guys there. L series should be really quiet, little to no valve ticking when adjusted correctly.

Check out that shock travel. ^shock is fully compressed. Found a nice shock option for the goon, KYB AGX short stroke! They came in the mail today. Drives soo much nicer. KYB part #743019, they are for camaro or AE86.

Nobody checked ratsun while we where there. That was a cool meet, glad to meet a bunch of you guys. Also thanks to whoever closed my hood when you guys left!

I commute in with my bro and he had to stay late to finish stuff...

I'm still at work... FML.

I run VR-1 non-synthetic racing oil 10w30 on my L20b.. runs great, but I don't have experience with other oil. It has the high ZDDP and other good stuff for older engine and cam designs. I have a cat, but my engine does not burn or leak oil so I never notice any issue there. Some cars that burn oil ZDDP will ruin a cat I've heard. From my research its one of the best choice for L series oil. $70 for 12 quarts on amazon. Works out to like $30/oil change with L20b(4.5 liters).

I would, but honestly if I make it I'm probably going to be late and have no idea when I'm leaving. I'm going to try to fix my ignition switch before I leave tonight, otherwise its bump starts and screwedriver jumping to get it going.

He was planning to have all ratsun guys meet at the am/pm, and roll into the in-n-out meet together so all out datsuns are parked together. I am going to try to make it down there.

I do not dislike the LS1, he said LS1 and automatic... It just seems like the most undesirable setup unless a daily driver car. I do like american V8, the corvettes LSx, Fords new 5.0's, they are OK for Z's but it just does not look right to me. Designed for an inline-6, and they just look at home in the engine bay... Why not L28ET? seems good like 230hp reliable and good DD? Then again thats crank rated HP... Its what I'm trying to get my brother to save for. And yes, manual shift is the best for touring sports cars!! Most fun! only sucks in traffic.

The thought of that makes me sick. At least put a 2jz in it.

The start position on my ignition switch just broke this morning. I can still start it with a screwdriver or pushstart, might be able to get there tonight.

You mean you actually broke the lower thermostat housing? JB WELD IT!! Mine is JB-welded! Works fine for temp solution.

I browse over at toyotacressida . net ... much more "tame" forum. Also some computer tech and game forums.

I like Konigs.

Stock ground point was from the battery to the lower starter mount bolt. I have this setup, I also have a smaller cable going from the battery negative to chassis.

I might be able to make it down that Friday.. Where are you guys meeting?

There was a large thread about this not too long ago.. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/39720-l20b-oil-reccomendations/

Fuel pump.