Stupid_fast

It does give me an excuse to wash it an polish the wheels. You think a bone stock X8 dropped 1" is cool? That makes me happeh.

Oh man that is cool, I want one now! Looks like there is a good amount of leg room?

Well this looks cool, I may be going depending on how car work goes on saturday. =D

@Hainz, he has not worked on his cars for at least 5 years... that's why he sold them. He just happened to have a rebuilt L20b he bought ... sold to me with the car. No idea who put the cam in, maybe he gave it to the rebuilder... If you zoom in on that pic and look in the middle of the cam you can see a C marking and what looks like a W before it. Now I just gotta get home and measure everything.

@Sealik, I will check the lash pads and see if they are stock or not. @hainz, the previous owner is a trustworthy guy. I just asked him and he says the only thing he remembers about the engine is that it was an aftermarket cam. I will look more closely and take some pics and measurements once I can. @Datzenmike, yes the cam is worn, that pic is from before I ever cranked the motor. I assumed he used a stock used cam, maybe he used something from another engine he had. I found another picture of the intake side. This is from before I even put oil in it... As I said before, I will look at it again over the weekend and get more information. Thank you all for the great info.

@ Sealik, can that potentially cause other problems with the engine as well? How do I fix it? Get new lash pads? Motor is most likely completely stock besides the cam.

@Banzai, This is the only picture I have right now. its back when I first took the valve cover off to do the lash before starting it the first time. I'll get a better picture up on saturday. I can say... this engine feels like it hits its torque max at about 4k RPM. pulls nice to 6k ..

1, I have tried setting half the valves, driving, then setting the other half... never seemed to help much. I always check the valves against the other one I did so I take engine cooling into consideration. 2, I am using 10w30 Valvoline VR-1 ... non synthetic with ZDDP, my car runs in 30-60 degree weather at the moment. Is that REALLY too thin for this engine? 3, I will check over the valvetrain, I believe I measured the cam once and verified it was stock. It did have some wear on it even in the rebuilt motor, so maybe it was a used cam. I'll try it again with various methods and see if I can improve it. Hehe, I see what you did there! I was noticing when I set 0.08 int, 0.010 ex cold it was too loose when the engine was warmed up, I will also try setting it tighter cold. I don't think its aftermarket, but I don't really know anything about this rebuild... Is there something specific I can check over or measure? I am on business until the weekend, I will mess with it then. Thank you for the replies. Edit, just talked to the guy I got the engine from... Its an aftermarket cam! That's probably why I've had so much trouble... I'm going to measure it when I get back home on the weekend.

Hello all, I've had lots of engine performance trouble that have not been fixed and there is one thing that I have noticed happening for a while. The motor is an L20b with A87(pretty sure..) head. Motor was bought as rebuilt, has about 4000 miles on it. I have adjusted the vavles cold, and hot to the on the specs from olddatsuns.com probably 30 times and I cant get them right. I'm taking the car to troy ermish shop in the next few weeks to have him sort out other running problems, but I'd like to have it running as best as I can get it when I take it there. It seems every time I adjust my valves, it goes out of spec just driving it once. Last night I set my valves to hot spec, set motor to TDC adjusted 4 valves, turned crank 360* and adjusted the other 4 valves. (0.010 int, 0.012 ex) I adjusted it so the (for example) intake 0.010 would fit in with little drag, but the 0.011 would not fit. Also I tightened down the adjusters quite well and verified the lash setting everything seems fine. After adjusting it, I take the car for a short drive about 1-2 miles up the roads around my house, when I left the valves made very little noise but when I came back after the drive they where making a ton of noise again. I really don't understand what could be causing this, could this be a problem with the valvetrain? Thanks.

newfag cant triforce. ht /repost

Eh if I wash my goon I may make it out. :sweat: Thats if my company does not send me to LA this week...

Sorry I do not know if those will fit in the 210 struts. Try measuring or finding the measurements of the 210 ones and find something the same size.

Very cool.

Yeah, that's what I was trying to explain. . Those parts are the jets, little tuning parts that are set differently per car model.. all those jets and little tuning parts you can buy in all different sizes, so you should be able to match all three carbs. Go with the stock Z settings and tune it from there, should run nice. Good luck

check the jets on all 3... see if there are any that are different.

VQ?

Thankyou for the info, maybe I will just get a new steering wheel then.

Other people here know a lot more about these carbs, but for starters .. Are the carbs the same size? I think you can change the choke size? Are they the same size? If its just the jet sizes that are different that's easy, 10 minute fix. There are lots of things that would need to be known ... if the carbs are all DCOE 40's they can be tuned the same. Do you have a carb synchronizer?

Looking good! Do those T3 adapters work with 9-bolt steering wheels?? I want one!

No the 5 speed bellhousing is the one I've heard of people doing, I don't think the 4 speed bellhousing will work properly. I could be mistaken. Look here, http://atlanticz.ca/...tall/index.html ^From there;

The 240sx KA24 have the later FS5W71C which does NOT bold on to the L series engines. The FS5W71B(280zx, 720, ect) is the correct bolt-on choice.(besides x-member mods) It is possible to swap the bellhousing with an L series FS5W71B transmission, but the FS5W71C has larger input and output shaft bearings. I don't know the exact specs but its pretty cheap($100-150) to get the L bellhousing modified to fit the FS5W71C. its pretty easy to find all the correct information and specs to give a machine shop to mod the bellhousing. I plan on upgrading to an FS5W71C transmission, and getting my bellhousing modified. I've heard that Ermish racing does this modification, but I have not talked to him about it yet. With the C series trans you can use a KA short shifter, versus the older 280zx shifter which there are no aftermarket options for.

Depends on how you're lowering it as well, I did not really explain myself. The rear of my goon is lowered by flattening out the leaf spring(flipped leaf) which brings the shock mounting closer to the chassis, if you have lowering blocks shock travel is not a problem(shock mount stays the same distance from the chassis). for the 210(B310) I'm pretty sure you can do the 280zx strut conversion. Some information here ... do not confuse the B210 and B310(datsun 210) models. http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=280ZX_Strut_Swap

Wow... if you where not in Thailand I'd recommend scrapping and finding another one. Those ZX are easy to come by here in great shape, its surprising to see one like that! Good luck with the project, my brother has a 280zx and they a definitely fun cars.