Stupid_fast

This is the exact setup I was about to buy... Wont have cash until end of the month... If you've still got em by then I definitely want them!

Hello, I'm looking to buy some ZX struts and hubs in bay area, CA. Modded for coilovers would be even better if its good price. Not sure whether I want to go for the MR-2 rear's or ZX shocks yet. Open to trade if somebody wants the 510 setup. I currently have a set of 510 struts with T3 camber plates, coilovers, 200# springs and 3000-mile tociko BZ3099's ... worth $350 easily. it goes REALLY low. highest height has no wheel gap with 175-70-13's. Only problem is needs new calipers, rotors resurfaced. Gonna transfer this stuff to ZX struts if I get the bare struts.

^Wow that is pretty... Are those 14x7 +0's with 195-60's? I'm wanting to go 15's on mine. Stock roof rack looks nice! I've got to get mine installed. Oh and I need stiffer shocks for my goon, new stock ones are way to soft! Some search gives that camaro 68 front's fit on, anybody got a recommendation for good adjustable ones?

and a hakosuka GTR...

I'm trying to get my brother jelly... but he wont even put the under-dash plastic pieces back... Damn wires hangin' down...

I fixed the front camber... Rolled the fender lip and now it drives a bit better. Next step is konig rewinds.

I remember seeing this car back a year ago... nice to see that rust over the windshield getting fixed!

Even new ferrari's catch fire... Never know when there is cheap glue near your exhaust pipe!! Can never trust those Italians! I don't carry a fire extinguisher...

Eh thermostat temps? i have a 180* .. Yeah, just drove it to work and home .. sat in traffic and temp went to 180* and held fine. freeway temp went down to 170 ... never went over 180. Seems good to me! I'm going to set up a fan controller for it as soon as I can... For now it works. My fiero rad is 13 psi cap ... Hmm after driving a while in traffic I notice oil pressure went down a bit... probably got hot? Was getting under 15psi at 800rpm. Oil too thin? I'm using 10w30. Was going to upgrade to a high volume oil pump. Anyway.. the car works and I can drive it reliably so I'm happy. Thanks everyone for the help.

My stock gauge is completely broken, I am using an autometer electric short sweep ... water temp like 160 on freeway, 180 sitting, 170-ish on backroads ..

I will test this next time I can.. Yeah I awlays thought it ran cool... has a 180* t-stat water temps are always 160-170 .. Never said optimal .. I only say this is what it runs at. Do you suggest I put a 190* or 200* t-stat in? What temp should L series run at? 180* constant? I have done hot day in traffic... sitting in line for the bay bridge idling for like 20 minutes, no problem 180* solid .. I went on a rampage to the car store buying parts... I ended up with a 78 510 pump which does not fit the stock fan, I'm going to order a new pump and get the setup sorted soon. When I realized the stock fan would not fit I was just like $@*& went to car store bought elect fan wired up with a relay... I know it was silly, but I had lost patience and ended up with an elaborate non functional setup... Why go back to stock rad? I have fiero rad.. Nothing is setup for stock rad.. Uh well I was going to wire up a toggle temporarily until I get a proper thermometer switch setup .. im planning to get a thermo-switch so the fan comes on when needed..

I see... its normal to run a bit rough with 12btdc? 32/36 carb.. Gonna go fill up the gas and take it for a spin...

Sigh I'm an idiot... I just bled the system(method on datsun 1200 wiki) and it works fine now. temps on backroad/giving throttle 2500-3500rpm's are 160-170... just under 180 idling in the garage. Maybe the coolant bypass prevents air from getting trapped? I feel like a complete idiot now... thank you all for the help. weber 32/36 .. might still be underjetted, but its running OK now. It never overheated when it had even smaller jets. Vac adv not sure if working... will troubleshoot that, at 1k RPM's it likes around 20btdc ... unsure why that is still. Yeah, I'm going to wire up a switch for the cooling fan.. this was just a temporary solution.

OK.. I'll try to go to hardware store and rig something up replacing the stock temp sender..(stock gauge does not work anyway) Such a bizarre problem... It makes no sense to me that this would fix it.

What. If you are sure that will fix my problem... Time to replace the t-stat housing. I have an L20b housing but the bypass was plugged when I got it. Its where I installed the auto meter temp sender... with the wrong fitting and busted up the lower housing. I have it JB-welded in at the moment. So run it from the lower t-stat housing to the water inlet port next to the lower rad hose?

With rad cap off, revv it and coolant level drops down low, revv it hard and can see coolant spilling from the rad core... Radiator gets warm meaning there is flow and heat transfer... fins where the fan is blowing are cold.

I covered all of this stuff in my post. Yes to all. Radiator is NEW(I put it in yesterday with fresh coolant) straight out of the box... t-stat already has a little failsafe/jiggle valve. I tried running motor without thermostat didn't make a difference. Already broke in the engine just fine, comp is nice at 170/cyl. over 3000 miles since break-in run and 5 oil changes later w/ K&N filters... valvoline non-synthetic VR-1 30w for break-in run and now 10w30 .. Fan is the correct way around, hooked up as a pusher. Fan is hooked up to be on when IGN is on w/relay(temporary solution). Bay was cleaned before I dropped the engine in. There is no hose to the bottom t-stat housing(L16 stuff). The head has no water ports. I want to drive it!!

Well, I've finally decided to create a thread on this... While driving, the temperature will keep going up and up... the faster I go the higher the temp, I always shut it off before it gets past 220. Temps verified with infrared sensor. setup; Everything has ~3500 miles on it. L20b(rebuild), 32/36, fiero radiator, 12" electric fan 350cfm, autometer electric temp gauge. things I replaced since I noticed the overheat; Water pump, upgrade to electric fan, thermostat(tested on stove), head gasket, radiator, ect. I also rewired the gauge ground. While doing the head gasket I visualy inspected everything... I looked into the engine and didnt see any blockage, ect .. old head gasket was fine. I rechecked the cam timing and chain(dropped the tensioner, LOL!) it is set correctly, dizzy shaft 11:28's @ TDC. Comp is good, runs great, fast, good power, goes up hills without a problem. The car has always ran cool before this, 150* driving around on the freeway 70mph, never exceeded 180* sitting in traffic for 15-20 minutes at toll gates, driving to JCCS going 70mph 3500rpm highway 5 like 85-90 deg ambients it topped 170 deg!! Spirited driving on backroads with high throttle would be fine... 3000-4000 constant revvs at lower speeds temps where ~160-170. I've upped the jet sizes on the carb since I drove to JCCS... plugs are light grey suggesting slightly lean. timing set to 12BTDC(timing light) currently and running strong.(I shut off and caost when the temp starts going high) Last time I drove it before it overheated; I drove about 90 miles to see a friend, when I got there driving around town it was performing terribly ... stuttering, popping, stalling ... before I left to come home I found advancing the timing fixed this(to like 25btdc... it before it was timed correctly to 12) Drove home without an issue... 3500 revvs all the way. Temps where fine, I always have a habit of checking them periodicity. 150*-160* there and back freeway temp. Next time I drove it was a few days later, coming home I noticed the temps going up. coasted down the hill to my house and started the last few weeks of troubleshooting. Running observations; Upper radiator hose is HOT when the car is warmed up, lower rad hose is WARM. rad fins where the fan isnt blowing are hot. radiator level is full. radiator cap is good. nothing going into the overflow can. With temp gauge at 180* IR sensor says: block temp 180-200 head temp ~190 upper rad hose 130 lower rad hose 100 temps climb as water temp does... Ideas? Help me ratsun, you are my only (cheap) hope~! Next step is to tow it to Ermish racing and see if he can sort it out.

Google image search "datsun 510 BBS RS" http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/898265-datsun-510-with-s2k-motor-swap/