Stupid_fast

Nevermind, failed to read posts correctly... Getting more coffee..

I think it is the carb at this point, I've fixed every other possible problem with mechanics of the engine and ignition. I found one small vacuum leak on a plugged PCV valve, replaced it with a bolt and a runs a little better. I notice if I hold the throttle barely open, like 2-3% it will be more rough than idle, but more on the throttle and higher RPM will be normal. If I open the 2nd throttle(by hand) from idle, it is not rough like doing the same with the first... This seems strange to me. The main thing that is annoying me is the hesitation, engine breaking, coming to a corner, foot on break, clutch in, lower gear, blip throttle and it just hesitates... Wont rev up unless I do it gently. Can float setting cause hesitation?

Some applications with the "pigtail" ends is possible, I did it in my toyota cressida. Both front and rear require spring compressors, the front spring pearches have a lip, so you can cut the lower coils off. The rears are tapered towards the lower end so you cant cut the bottom, have to cut some off the top and its good springs are secure. Have to use your own judgement when deciding to cut or not to cut, safety first! Only con is the front ones now groan a little bit! Not loudly, but noticeable. IMO chopping for a small drop with NEW shocks is OK, a new set of KYB's where only $120 for my application. Agressive stance should always be on coilovers. My toyota handles much nicer after dropping it 1", it should have come this way from the factory!!

If they can do it in a juke... Why not do it in a classic skyline!

I think I suck at adjusting valves. I spent some time on them while the motor was hot, the valves are a lot more quiet now and its running better but not perfect. Idle is still rough, I think its a matter of fine tuning out every small problem. The hesitation is still there... I'm wondering if rejetting the carb would solve this or if I should just grab another carb?

If it where worth the parts I needed to drive there its not too far. What junk yards are there?

Hey does anyone know of some good junk yards in the bay area, california? Picknpull is a bit annoying, and they no longer have any cars I need parts off of in their inventory.

T-T-T-TRIPPLE POST!!! @KEWL510, I have checked the timing... at TDC the cam/crank timing is correct. The car runs fine at steady RPM, I cruised from long beach at 80MPH 4000RPM no problems!! Could not get the dizzy.. Got stuck in traffic didn't make it to the meet. :( I did not assemble this motor, the previous owner of the car bought it rebuilt and never dropped it in until he sold it to me.The furthest checking I've done is pulling out the plugs and making sure engine was TDC...I can pull off the head if I have to but rather not. 171 comp on L20b according to olddatsuns. It does it consistently... Same time difference between shakes of the motor. It is very slight but noticeable. Yeah... runs good at higher RPM and nice power 3500-4000. Up the grapevine from LA(mountain pass) doing 80mph uphill was no problem at no more than 1/2 throttle(32mm open). Eh? What part loosely? Which part should have drag to it? the feeler gauge? I adjusted it cold this time... Perfectly to cold specs. I will warm it up tomorrow and adjust it hot, see if there is a difference.

Looks like it was nice... I got stuck in traffic from petaluma. :(

Yeah, if the pertronix or anything is positioned off it can be dialed out... I stuck some screws onto the magnet and looked like they where pretty straight 90* from eachother. Yes, it does it every rotation ... if you listen to the exhaust can hear a slight consistant "pop"(not loud!) like its a harley... Like bad wires or spark .. or comp is off on a cyl(but i tested that). Bad wires maybe?! I'm not going to have more time to work on it until the weekend... I will dig into it more then. The valves have always been noisy... I thought this was normal cause they where even when I adjusted them several times. I got the adjustments so they smoothly slide in the gap but not loosely. Maybe try to perfect it more? What could cause that? KADET510 says he has a single point distributor, so I'll be able to pick one up in santa clara tomorrow. At 11:28, verified... motor at TDC. Pertronix install, I tired to make it more even against the magnet with a single screw to test, it made no difference in how it ran.

@laecaon, That's a good point ... I wonder if there are any disadvantages? is it 4 lug? Definitely would want 4 lug.

Question is... Will it drift? I want to do this badly... I'm hoping to start taking some welding classes soon.

Gonna make it tomorrow if all goes well, and force my brother to bring his 280zx. Does anyone have a single point distributor? I am in need of one, it would be great if I could pick it up locally.

it revvs to about 2k's, Stays at RPM instead of dropping? When I drove to LA mine started doing this in traffic (with weber 32/36... after driving about 6 hours, not very fun especially in LA), I pulled over and found a fix. Try spraying some WD-40(or other preferred lubricant) on the throttle linkages, this fixed it for me. Also try loosening the nut that holds it down. It should not be tight, not even stug, just holding the throttle with the lock washer thing holding the nut so it does not get too loose. I'm guessing the carb/linkages get hot after running a long time, and expand a little causing it to bind.

Yeah, those are for a 3" axle, so I bought u-bolts for a 2.5" axle then found out the blocks didnt work... Summit racing has some 2.5" 8" long u-bolts 1/2 diameter ... they are nice probably would work with 3" blocks.

Yeah I did mod the plate to fit in.. maybe that can cause problems. Something else I thought of I heard the magnets can be 1/2 deg off, could this cause my problem? Is there anywhere I can get a replacement rotor for the pertronix? Its strange though, it does it every rotation like its a single cylinder that is off slightly. I'm going to santa clara monthly tomorrow, I'll definitely ask around. Thanks.

That is the advice I was looking for, thanks! What about blocks? I was thinking 1" blocks and the flipped leaf would give a nice stance, but the belltech 6002 kit I got was the wrong pin size. (its like 3/8" .. does not fit over the center bolt on the leaf)

Yeah 600 is a bit much for me. Where did you get mikuni's for 250?? with manifold? I'd buy that instantly if I saw them at that price. I will check the dizzy tonight hopefully, I'm hoping I can fix it and verify 11:28's. I agree its not good to just throw money at it, but I've exhausted almost every other option at this point. I don't mind spending money if its worth it, but I already have thrown way too much at this project now and frustrated by the results. Tomorrow night I'm going to the santa clara monthly meet, maybe someone there can help me out. For the pertronix I'll get a pic of my install but I did as best a job as any as far as I can tell.. engine timed 12btdc the adjustment bracket on the dizzy is at 0 . I will try some more stuff and get back with more info tonight or tomorrow. Thanks for all the help.

It should be placed on the upper outlet before the thermostat to read the most accurate engine temp, AFAIK. That's where the hot water is flowing out of the engine! I mounted an autometer sender there, you can get some adapters for the stock mounting threads just make sure to get the proper british pipe thread... I split my thermostat housing by using a wrong adapter.

I got a question about this, I was going to do the last leaf flip. I heard from troy he does it for like $150, then again I could do it myself... Though I hear its dangerous if the pack pops apart and I have no experience with it. I've been researching leaf springs and I heard it is good to pack in some grease inbetween the springs, do any of you do that? Also do you clean up and paint your springs? Does it help anything except looks? Also what kind of blocks are you guys running? I got some belltech ones and the center pin was the wrong size! I really want to get my goon dropped and stiffened in the back. Handling is pretty bad right now slammed in the front, stock in back. Thanks.

You would not recommend a single sidedraft setup? Yeah, yeah... I am just annoyed it will delay me getting new wheels. You really think its worth it $255 for new weber 32/36 spare carb? There is also a twin 40mm setup in the for sale section for 600... Tempted but cant afford it yet. Maybe a twin SU setup? There is a set on the for sale section for 250... I am not experienced with carbs, I just want something that will give nice torque, smooth acceleration, reliability and fun. Also its gotta sound nice, the weber I have has a good sound to it ... I pulled apart the pertronix yesterday, I checked the dizzy... its still as nice as it looked when I put it in. It was a remanufactured one from napa. Anyone got a single point dizzy laying around they want to send me? Oh and Datzenmike, http://notch.tumblr....ickens-and-eggs (Its about a videogame, fyi)

The pertronix kit 1741 I got did not come with a feeler gauge. @hainz, I did pull out the dizzy shaft when I primed the oil pump.... Maybe I did not put it in at the right 11 28 that I thought I did. I will check that again, its the only thing I can think of. Maybe I can buy another dist off a member here, or convert this one back to points.. at least to test it. As for the carb I could get a used one, but I just don't like spending cash on a setup I don't think I'm going to keep for a long time. I'm thinking a single sidedraft would be nice.

I don't have a spare carb or dizzy... Maybe should just ditch it and go to sidedrafts? Yeah, the idle jet is a 60. Speed screw is barely turned in. advance is plugged in correctly. Eh? There is a little gap (idle speed???) but not even 1mm wide... I checked it today.. idle speed screw is barely in. I also ruined my idle cut solenoid today, cut out the needle to bypass it... no effect. I tried loosening it again today, no difference I already had it adjusted right. Yeah as I said in 1st post, 170-170-175-175.... comp test I did at like 50 miles was 170 on all 4. Not sure what to do at this point I played around with the pertronix mounting, seemed OK. Nothing I can really do there. It does run better if I advance to like 25-30 btdc, but then it likes to stall when I clutch in ... More fiddling with the carb and nothing really has changed. I will try to get a video of it running in a day or two.

Lets see, primary idle is 60, secondary 50, main's are 140-140, air correctors are 170-160 Mixture screw is best at about 3/4 turns out. I dunno about the speed screw, have not checked how far in it is. idle is about 800rpm's it wavers by about 30rpm's.(timing light has a tach on it) The stuttering/hesitation problem happens anywhere 2000rpm-3000rpm. It is less harsh at higher RPM, and is pretty much gone around 3500+, but my tach isnt hooked up at the moment. What about that idle cut? Isn't it strange nothing happens when I unplug it from 12v?? Vacuume advance looks good, reman dizzy, new hoses on everything and CLAMPED. cam is stock AFAIk, does not feel like an aftermarket one though I could measure it.Pertronix gap?! its about 1mm from the pickup, how much is it suppose to be gapped!? I had to mod the mounting plate for it to work correctly in the dual point dizzy, maybe this is a problem? I fixed the problem of the rotor being loose on the shaft, so that's not the problem. yes. One thing I could think of was blown gaskets... blown head gasket? But no other symptoms of it. I did run it hard ... ? It does run cold... I have an aftermarket autometer gauge. water temps about 150 on freeway 3500-4000rpm's 70-80mph, never hits over 180 in traffic ... Backroads keeps around 150-160 3000-3500rpm's. If temps under 180 w/ 180 deg tstat, the rad isnt even kicking in is it? Thanks.