Stupid_fast

There are few new cars that actually come with efficient engine designs. The Hyundai Elantra is rated at 30mpg city/ 40mpg highway, the fiat 500 is rated at 30 city/ 38 highway. A little 2 door hatchback getting worse mileage than a 4-door sedan is pathetic imo. http://www.hyundaiusa.com/elantra/ Not to say its a bad car, its a cool little italian car and I'd love one if it where more efficient. Back in the 80's my parents bought a chevy sprint(suzuki swift) which was about the size of the 500 and got over 50mpg consistently out of a carbureted 1liter 3 cyl, why cant a newer modern car get better??

They are nice, but 40mpg seems pretty shit to me for such a small car.

Thanks but the car is at Troy Ermish right now. He is fixing everything, wont get it back until next week. Where you at the Santa Clara meet last night? Car was running really rich probably due to the wrong engine mount brackets having the engine/carb at the wrong angle. I replaced the thermostat and when I drove it to fremont it did OK, drove on freeway for maybe 10 min did great @ 70mph, temp was stable up until half way there(took a back road for most of the way), then from there it was almost at the H for the rest of the way. :( I just drove it gently and tried to keep the revvs down. Didn't go over the H and got it there okay. Spark plugs are NEW, gapped and regapped, coil, ignition is all good. I pulled plugs when I did the compression test, they where black... Running rich, not lean! I leaned out the idle mix as much as possible while still idling, and it ran decently. Timing was set before I left, 12btdc.

Wow that was cool, cant wait to bring my wagon next month.

Check the date on the original post. My goon isn't done at troy's... Gonna have to drive down the toyota.

Are we doing this? If not I'm going to drive down a few days early .. Want to finalize mah plans.

Those would look awesome on a AE86 IMO! GLWS.

Made it to troy's, was almost at h half of the way there, but it did fine. Better with the new thermostat.

Yep- I understand what you are saying. :P I'm just going to have them weld back the p/o's exhaust setup since I have it. Will save a few coin to get it JCCS-ready..

I'm 17.

The old one was new, this is a rebuild engine, everything new... The reason you just said is why I replaced it. :S Gonna mess around with it tomorrow, then head to troy's to get it tuned and exhaust welded in.

OK, everything seems to be working but the interior fan and wiper motor - the fan I have not even stated troubleshooting yet. The wiper motor is getting 0v on all 5 connectors with the switch on full.. I'm going to try to disassemble and reassemble the switch to see if I can find a problem.

Well, just tested the temp gauge and it seems fine. I'm going to replace the thermostat and check some other stuff.

Yes, I plan to remove them a few times for suspension and wheel-well work. I understand the 40 year old crap wont last, this is why I have bought new bolts for pretty much the whole car!! I just need to get some sort of mount that will work and look OK.

That would be OK, but the thing I'm worried about I'd want to remove and reinstall the fender again in the future... Would those still hold up as well after doing it over and over again?

Hello , on my 510 wagon when I removed the fenders a few months ago the heads of the lower fender mount bolts on both sides broke off, and the shaft and threads of the bolts are rusted and seized into the body. They are stuck so badly that I cannot really drill them out, I tried to drill and extract one and the tap broke off in the bolt. I was thinking of using a small bracket and moving the bolt to the little rail lip under the car, but was curious if anyone else has a better idea? Also one of the upper fender bolt heads on both sides broke off, and those are also completely seized in place. I really have no way of welding, and no budget left as I'm trying to get it somewhat "together" for JCCS. Just enough to survive the trip there and back and not look stupid. Thanks.

A classic skyline?! I have never seen one in person !!

That's the second thing I'm going to do, I have another new one I can throw in there also.

Yes, timed to 12btc or bdc or whatever the abbreviation is.. I'll test the gauge tonight after work, if it is bad I'll get an autometer one or something.

Well, none of those things happened. Bad gauge? I can go buy a gauge tomorrow night, but is there a better way to test the stock gauge? I will research tomorrow. thanks...

Thats what I'm starting to think... When it first overheated when I drove it with the ignition too retarded the overflow bottle was full immediately, but this time it was empty, rad hoses where only warm, ect. Bad thermostat? Bad temp gauge? The temp sender is a new unit. Ideas? Theres no real difference in how it drives when the gauge starts going up, how should it run when it starts to overheat? Thanks!

I tried to drive it again today, got down the hill and it overheated again... I checked the timing, carb tuning, everything... It would cool down if I idled it but if I drove it at all in gear it would heat right up. Ideas?

Was bored this morning, not really motivated to work on my goon.. Then I browse to this thread, and now I have the urge to work on it. Thanks!!

umad bro? We're simply stating the flaws with the ideas and information your posting, you are acting like you are leaving because you don't like what you hear. Cars are hard. We are just saying start with something simple. Do what you will, but pay attention to our advice. Sure we'd love to see this completed, but it is very unlikely it will be done right.