Stupid_fast

AFAIK back a few pages goki said as long as its a wagon ... its a goon.

Only if you got teh piocs.

Thanks. Its a lot of fun to drive! Just gotta lower the back. ^That road starts about 1/4 mile from my house.

edit, nevermind! Everything is working now thanks for all the help!

Hmm someone just has to drop their chassis in a pool and use this method... Now that would be interesting.

Yup, charge light is just pulsing, can barely see it, it's just more noticeable at night. Alt getting 14.3v correctly to the battery, I wired up the autometer volt gauge and it stayed stable while driving around 2 hours. Ok, it was not overheating. I got an autometer electric temp gauge and now its reading steady at around 160* on backraods. Never saw it go over 180*. I watched the stock gauge go up on the H and the autometer was still displaying a steady 160* ... I put the autometer sender into where the coolant bypass hole. Threaded with some fittings I had leftover from the oil gauge! Idle was my mistake, I gapped the plugs to 0.035 (haynes guide for L16) instead of 0.041 ... running a lot better now. Thanks everyone for the help, now the carb just has to be rejetted and tuned. Seems it can wait until after JCCS! A lot of fun to drive now its running nice!

Yeah, the fan belts I had where NEW. Alt is new. Ritchening up the carb mixture seems to make it run cool, there's a sweet spot in the idle settings around 1000rpm that make it run OK. When I pulled the spark plugs at first oil change/ 20 miles they where BLACK! seems the carb is over-jetted ? I think it just needs a rejet/tune and new plugs... Bat voltage was 12.6-12.8v with car OFF, Alternator was reading around 14.3-14.6v ... even though the "CRG" light was pulsing very faintly, I guess its just more noticeable at night. Why would it be pulsing like that? This is my 2nd NEW/rebuilt alt. Again, pretty much everything on the mechanical of the car are new/rebuilt parts. Thanks...

I cant get it to idle smooth under 1000RPM ... I tried this speed screw 1/2 turn IN, adjusted mixture until it was as smooth as I could get it, set timing, overheating!! I tried and tried and now I cannot get back to the setting when it was not overheating. Need to mess with it more :( Charge light is coming on now too... suggests that fan belt is bad, but I just replaced it! its as tight as I can get it, very little play... I messed around with it for a bit, this morning the alt light was on also so fiddled with a few unrelated things, went to work, then it started working later in the day when I was home. Tomorrow I'm going to try to get it to where it was not overheating. and hopefully fix the alt. Bat voltage is good 12.65v. Fan belt was squealing a little on start-up when hot... Could bad alt cause temp gauge to go up?! Ideas? Thanks..

4A-GE .... That's all I can think of when I see it.

OK.. I'll go at it again. Its a bitch to get running right!! Currently wont overheat idling @ 1000rpm's but not running perfect. I've been fucking with it for the past hour or so just to get a feel for it. Its just cause I have no experience with carbs, I'm sure I can get it going right. I was following the weber lean best tuning.. I'll try your method!! Plastic 6 blade clutch fan with fiero rad. The thermostat already has a little hole with the jiggle valve thingy... Should I add another 1/8th one?? Sender is NEW and functioning !! The temp gauge and sender seem to be good and reading accurately!! Yup the exhaust sounds awesome, its not a daily so if I have a date I can always drive my CRESSIDA luxury. So quiet you wont know its there until its on top of you. And yes, its a weber 32/36.

Durrrr... I fixed the heat problem. I was driving it, heat was near H, pulled over, backed idle mixture out 1/4 turn(running more rich) heat is around halfway on the gauge now and running better than ever. Seems I just suck at tuning. Idle is still high, 1000RPM's. Just have to find the right balance of idle.

OK sounds good, at least I probably don't have to pull the engine... I'm doing the rear end diff oil, seals and lowering blocks tomorrow. The driveshaft I got from the p/o looks like it was shortened and never installed... looked good. Engine was just put in... All mounts are tight. Exhaust was just installed by Troy Ermish ... Seems perfect. I will check it all tomorrow, thank you both!!

But... Is it on the right way? In that pic its pressed onto the sleeve showing the top of the bearing that's contacting the clutch...

Then your missing out. S2000's are fun. In fact, a couple 510 guys have the motor in their cars. ;)

Wait- Is my throwout bearing on wrong??? I saw some other pics on threads here showing that the lip is suppose to go IN, not out, but if I put it the other way around it would jam the bearing... Or am I looking at it wrong? Its a NSK bearing... Should I order a new one and pull the engine?

Only happens under engine braking = with clutch engaged and in gear over 2krpm's. I was driving mainly on backroads 2,000-3,500rpm's with gentle throttle since its a rebuilt engine. I will try to get a video tonight or tomorrow. Its an OEM Nissan roadster pressure plate(30210-20111), Exedy Datsun 510 disc, AASCO 11lb 6-bolt flywheel. Trans fluid is royal purple synchromax, fyi. I thought the pressure plate bolts don't need locktite? is that incorrect? could those have gotten loose? Mainly I just want to know if its bad to keep engine braking even with the noise, will it wear faster? I can just avoid engine braking but it can be annoying on the freeway. I am driving to long beach in 2 weeks, does this have to be done before then?!?! Thanks.

Hello, I have just gotten my exhaust installed on my 510 wagon with 280zx 5-speed. Driving it back from the shop now that it is a lot more quiet I noticed when engine braking especially in 4th/5th there is a sort of whine/chatter from the gearbox, if I apply power/freeway cruising it feels and sounds fine. I'm curious what is wrong, currently I have no carpet and the shift hole is just a bit cut hole in the tunnel (I can see the ground/driveshaft while driving (rofl) so I can hear it more clearly Is it a normal noise? I also found out that I installed the throw out bearing backwards, and I need to pull the engine to fix that soon. Could that be causing this noise? Transmission is used with new fluid, clutch is new, flywheel is new, flywheel bolts are NEW nissan OEM w/ blue threadlocker, t/o bearing is new(but installed wrong), slave/master cyl and soft line are new, rebuilt engine/all of that is new. Bolts where all torqued to spec ... Could have come loose Maybe?! It sounds like its in the trans, though. Sounds like it comes from the transmission, but the diff oil is old and diff case is wet. I'm changing that out this weekend, could it cause this? Have been searching this but have not found a good answer. Thanks.

If you like limited slip, drive an S2000 around a corner and come out of it with too much throttle. You will fishtail all over the road. Proving that limited slip gives the most excitement.

^this

I am also enjoying my stickers!!

Since the day I saw this thread.. I've wanted to post this. I drove it!