Booger

NorCal (Gilroy)

Thanks for the info everyone. I sent out an email to Datsport and if that doesn’t work, I’ll have to get it welded up. Thanks again

I’m having some trouble with the outlet on my coolant neck. The engine is a rwd jdm sr20de (non turbo) and the vehicle is a 72 510. The problem I’m having is my coolant outlet on my motor comes straight out towards the front of the car. Giving me virtually zero clearance for my radiator. I have managed to make it work for a month (by cutting off 1/8” off radiator inlet to make clearance) but the radiator is shifted wayyyy over to the passenger side of the car. Basically it looks like an idiot mounted the radiator too far on the passenger side 🤣. Having said that, I went online and purchased a sr20ve water neck outlet but that didn’t work either. The neck on the ve comes straight up and hits my distributor. I know I’m not the only one who’s ran into this problem before. Is there a outlet neck I can use that comes out towards to driver side of the vehicle? If I had that, then I could use a 90 degree coolant hose and come straight into my radiator which would allow me to “push” my radiator towards the driver side. ☝️clearance with stock outlet Another angle ☝️this is what it looks like from the front/top side angle (again stock outlet) what you see from the front of the car. The radiator is pushed towards the passenger side leaving a large gap/misalignment ☝️sr20ve coolant outlet I purchased online thinking it would work 🤦‍♂️ another angle of the ve outlet. ☝️👇pics for comparison. Sr20ve on the left and stock SR20DE non turbo rwd on the right.

Hi everyone, I have a 72 Datsun 510 with a S14 SR20DE. I purchased a Wiring Specialties Pro Series Conversion Harness for it and I need a little help. So, I followed the instructions and I got the car running....however my Chassis Connector interface (picture below) doesn’t seem to work. I have labeled all the wires (tach signal, check engine light, fuel pump trigger etc) isn’t working. So I bet ur wondering how I got the car running if I can’t get the fuel trigger wire to work coming from the Chassis Connector? Well, I wired the “hot” wire from the fuel pump straight to my ignition So I knew the fuel pump was working and the engine runs just fine. Having said that, I can’t seem to get any of the pin-outs to work (pin 1-20/and pin D for fuel pump) tho. Does anyone have any advice or info on these wiring harnesses? It’s pretty straight forward...and I thought the hard part was done...but I ran into a snag. Just to be clear, I can’t get the following to work: gauges/fuel trigger/alt light/oil light etc. I spent hours and hours trying to figure this out. I know I can wire up all the gauges individually straight to the source, but that’s defeating the purpose of having this harness. Any help would be great. Thanks online upload image

Here are a few pictures of the old clutch and the new Spec flywheel and clutch kit. Thanks to those who helped out. I ended up buying ARP flywheel bolts because I read on the FSM that the OEM flywheel bolts are stretch bolts and can only be used once. Having said that, i tossed them because I didn’t want those kind of problems later on down the road. upload

Alright everyone...I have an update. Just like it was stated above...the RWD SR20DE uses a 225mm flywheel while the SR20DET uses a 240mm Flywheel. Having said that, I can use a SR20DET flywheel (240mm) but I had to use the spec sn331 clutch kit to make all this work. When I was ordering the clutch and flywheel from SPEC, I asked SPEC to give me the info (year/make/model) on that clutch kit so I can purchase any clutch kit I wanted in the future...but they were reluctant to give me that info. I’m assuming because they wanted a returning customer haha. Anyways...thanks everyone for all the help. Below is a list of the parts I used. SPEC Clutch SN22S Single , Steel Flywheel SPEC Clutch SN331 Single , Stage 1

Yeah I was getting the same misinformation from multiple different sites. I’ve been on the phone with many different companies the past few days as well. I know the sr20det flywheel will work on my RWD sr20de non turbo. However...I don’t know which clutch kit I can use once I switch over to the det 🤷‍♂️

Hi everyone, I’ve been a member here for years and it’s always been my first place to look for information on swaps for my 510. Little back story, I’ve owned my 72 510 for almost 14 years now and my old ka24de motor (7year old swap) finally went out on me. Having said that, I had an opportunity to jump on a s14 SR20DE (RWD version NON TURBO) and I didn’t even hesitate. I’m currently in the process of cleaning it up, changing some thing and fixing small issues on the SR motor. This leads me to my question if your still reading...... Im gonna need a new clutch. I know what your thinking... use the internet!! But honestly....there isn’t much out there for this motor since it’s a rwd sr non turbo. All the clutches listed are different; SR20DE FWD Sentra, RWD SR20DET, KA24E, KA24DE and even my RWD SR20DE. All of these use different flywheels or clutch bolt patterns. The KA engines utilize the 225MM but the spines on the clutch are too narrow for the transmission. I’ve been reading that guys are swapping out the RWD SR20DE flywheel (225mm) with a SR20DET flywheel (240mm) however does a SR20DET pressure plate and splines work with a stock s14 sr20de 5 speed trans? I’m pretty much at a stand still rite now with the clutch and flywheel situation, so if anyone out there has a jdm s13/s14 RWD sr20de and knows what I’m talking about...I’d be stoked to talk with you more about your setup. I know I'm not the only one out here with this motor in a 510 😆.

Shoot I just found it. Hope this help anyone looking for this mod. Idk y it took me over a week to find ?‍♂️ http://www.freshalloy.com/showthread.php/158095-ka24de-Junkyard-Power-steering-delete-brackets lemme know if anyone can read the last digit of the part number. Idk what it says ?

Nahh thats not not the one. I see that a couple days ago but it’s different. I used a single cam lower/upper alternator mount, single cam pulley and a single cam thermostat housing. I did find a build thread but the owner didn’t specify belt number. He stated he would address it at a later time but never did. I’ll link the build ?

Hi everyone, I’ve been on Ratsun for years and you all come through in the clutch when needed. Okay, I have a 72 Datsun 510 that I swapped about 5 years ago over to a Ka24de. I haven’t driven it in about 2 years (married/children/house etc) and I’m starting to get back into it. I’ve replaced the alternator, water pump, thermostat, new battery etc. But I’ve ran into a problem. My engine is a Ka24de dual cam 2.4L with A single cam KA water pump pulley, alt bracket, thermostat water neck housing, Here’s the story: Back when I was building this 510, I came across a thread on this forum that talked about how to swap a adjustable alternator bracket from a single cam over to a dual cam. Doing that would allow 1 belt to work with the crank/water pump/alternator. Along with that thread came a part number for a belt for this particular swap. I hvent been able to find this thread and I’m having a hell of a time finding the correct belt. I would love to take my belt in to a parts store but it broke the last time I drove my Datsun because the alternator broke causing the pulley to freeze up which burnt up the belt and causing it to fall off on the freeway somewhere. I’ve been to 7 different parts stores and over 8 different belt sizes with no luck. The belts r either too long or too short. I’ve tried measuring and giving these auto stores the measurements, but they look at me like I’m some kind of idiot for not telling them the year make and model. My crank is two rib, my water pump pulley is two rib, and my new alternator is 3 rib. I can use a 2rib belt on the 3 rib alternator pulley, but I can’t use a 3 rib belt on my crank and water pump pulleys. Has anyone ever done this swap and know what I’m talking about? Any help would be great. If I’m not making any sense in this post, I’ll be more than happy to answer any questions. I need some help. Thanks in advance

Yes I did. I thought it looked better without it haha. Bumper is really clean, I don't think it has a dent on it and the chrome is super clean. I just liked the looked without the bumper. That's all

Pm sent sir

Still for sale.... Here's a little more info on the car 1. Disc breaks in the front (Toyota Calipers/from what I've been told) and drum in the rears 2. There are THREE carbs on my motor. All three are Mikuni's. 3. I'm not quite sure how many miles are on the motor. Rob Fuller at Zcar Garage build it and I ended up buying it off of him. All motor work was done by him. 4. There is little rust, but nothing to get all crazy scared over. The little rust thats on it was never ever a problem for me when I bought this car and still isn't. It's a 40 year old car, little surface rust. I'm trying to give you as much info as I can. 5. I do not have the original seats. These seats came with the Z when I purchased it. Here are a couple more pictures. Motor bay is a little dirty.....I didn't have time to clean it up before taking the pictures.

I agree haha. My original price was a bit high.....but thats exactly why I posted this topic on Ratsun.... to get everyones opinion. I know everyone here would give me an honest opinion and not bash the crap out of me like some of the other forums out there lol. Price dropped to $9k :thumbup: