yenpit

Hey man, it was CUSTOM!! 😆 😎

I've wondered the same, cuz this thread has been quiet! The bug sure ain't gone, but the "plandemic" has run its AGENDA course, at least here in the States. My roommate just had CV pretty bad (yes, jabbed, but NOT boosted). My (new) boss just tested positive, had a couple hard days, but didn't miss a day of work (works from home, yes, jabbed & boosted). I have consistently heard of other positive testing among friends etc over the last few months, but very few bad cases. Brandon just recently ended the "emergency" (FJB), so again, their agenda seems to have run its course. I am NOT letting my guard down, continue with all supplements, keep clean, don't touch public door knobs then stick my finger up my nose etc etc..............

My Hagerty policy does have a mileage limit, but don't know what it is offhand.............

I knew a couple employees when Hagerty was in Michigan, they moved here to Golden & we know some of the people directly involved! We've had a number of customer cars on display in their building showroom! Yes, good people! 😎

Well, I was in MI for 22 years, so.............

Ha, really!!?? 🤣 I don't like the tip turnouts, so figured a flapper was the way to go.............we get enough rain/snow here in Denver, that I won't leave it cut straight & open pointing up! Hmmmmmmmmm..............

I'm building a single exhaust stack for my 521 flatbed! I bought two of the internally baffled "glasspack style" mufflers, cut one end off both, will weld together to create a double length thus double # of baffles muffler. Also bought perforated sheet steel, will roll in to a heatshield around the muffler/stack. And of course, it will have a flapper on top! I think I bought a 2in exhaust tube kit to build the piping under the truck.................

I'm assuming the one on the left is your original? The lock on the right looks like an aftermarket, where you can see inside & has an external spring. They are later model & likely a reproduction (not a later model Nissan NOS lock). I bought a Dorman aftermarket lock set to simply look at them for use on earlier Datsuns. The earlier flat steel arm that is held on by that tiny hairpin clip, do NOT fit the aftermarket lock shaft..................but I think they can be carefully modified............?? One or both of your original lock cylinders should have a key code stamped on it............usually the passenger side cylinder. Any good locksmith will know exactly what to do!

8/71 should be a 1971 240Z (I think from 10/71 would be a 1972). If relatively solid & a good price, buy it! If rotten like most Z cars, just another money pit. They ARE a blast to drive, but like any classic car, if sitting for years, will take a FULL fuel system restoration, including carbs. The slotted mags were a very common "dealer add on" accessory in the early-mid 70's!

Troy Ermish has a nice looking carpet set. We bought one for a customer car, but haven't installed it yet. For those with Wagon's, he DOES offer a matching rear deck section, but it is not listed on his website.

My comment is "You crazy!" 😜 Unless you are an electrical wizard, why try to put yourself thru that? That said, I might have a good dash harness & a good tail harness..................what year 510? I do NOT have every year/application. The engine compartment section is the hardest to find, cuz they were out in the weather & most were cut hacked up horribly modified/repaired. Most of the one year application sections do NOT plug in to the other year applications. Let me know what year, happy to try to help! 1968 only 1969 only early 1970 only late 1970-1972 basically same 1973 only

Yes, we have installed the threaded collar in OPEN snap ring carriers..............can you install the collar in a snap ring LSD carrier?? We typically install Quaife LSD units in open diffs & the Quaife LSD unit comes with the threaded collar (??) by application, so we have not had to modify/add collars to a Quaife!

Yup! When did the Z series deck height raise even more.........Z24?

I've seen numerous small dents OUT from under the hood, on hoods I have had over the years, right above the valve cover hump. Wonder if it is only an issue if using the 68-69 valve cover with the ridges raised above the hump surface.............?? Those raised ridges stand about 1/8in above. I have also heard rumors that the later reproduction rubber engine mounts (ie from Beck Arnley) were thicker & caused some raised height/alignment/fitment issues.....?? Regardless, my suggestion to verify height still stands........don't just slam the hood closed first time!! 👍

So ANY 68-73 510 R160 will bolt right in, but there were two ratio's.............auto vs manual. Those two ratio's were 3.7 vs 3.9..............I think 3.7 was auto, 3.9 was manual......?? You can also look for a 1980's Subaru R160, which is also a bolt right in. The most common was 4.11, then I think a 3.7 & 3.9. All were also available in LSD, but those are getting hard to find. All of the Subbie diffs from that era had a foil sticker on the rear plate, labeling the ratio, which is nice...................the Datsun R160's were NOT labeled & must be identified mechanically. I do not believe ANY of the casting #'s help identify..............

FYI the early & late R180's bolt right in........same axles etc. If early R180, you want to use the early R180 stub axles! If you go with a later SNAP RING (stub axle) R180 out of a later Subbie, then you must purchase the custom stub axles (FutoFab, John Williams etc.............there are a few making them). The early R180's had a long bolt thru the center of the stub axle, threaded into a collar inside the carrier (internal). The later R180's had a wire "snap ring" holding the stub axle in. This difference is why you need custom stub axles, if using a later R180! I think it is safe to say that the change point on the Subbie diffs was around 1990/1991. The Nissan diffs did not change in a single year period...........the 4x4 720 front diff (yup, you CAN use them!) had snap ring stub axles some time in the early 1980's, as did the 280ZX. I THINK all of the early RWD Maxima's also had snap rings. Hope that helps!

Most people that own an old car, don't want to go thru the known hassles of getting a title, if they never registered it. Many family members of a deceased family member (or incapacitated) are not aware how easy it is to get a COPY of a title, in most states. I believe the legal executor of an estate has that ability. Some people buy without title, thinking they can easily get one, then come to find out the hassles..................so they try to off it. I think most states have a process, although many are difficult & cumbersome. Here in Colorado, we must create a "bond" with the state, which is kinda like an insurance policy. In the period of the bond, if the previous owner steps forward, they can claim the vehicle. The bond protects the current owner & the state from it having been a criminal/dirty act of ownership. A local buddy just successfully did the "Vermont title trick", by submitting their required paperwork, getting a title (510 had a vin # but no CO paper title). Now he needs to have the car vin inspected by the state & he gets a CO title. When I buy a car (Datsun) without a title, I am ultimately buying as a parts car, as I don't want to go thru the hassles of the CO bonding process..............

I sold Amco products NEW in the mid 1980's! I believe that was near the end of their reign, as manufacturer of some really nice (GROOVY!!) products. During that same 3 year employment (Mountjoy's Auto Shop in Hyattsville MD), we bought out all of the Amco inventory from a large auto parts company in N VA (Electrodyne??)........must have been right after Amco closed down........?? We bought it for the British accessories, but ended up with a bunch of other accessories, including Datsun! I was not into Datsun's at the time, but I personally bought most of that Datsun inventory & sold it off over the years. I do remember at least 3-4 center consoles, but the Datsun 1200 parts stick out in my mind. Nope, I have NOTHING left!!

Agree! You can easily make a stepped washer to compensate for the thinner exhaust manifold/header flange OR Troy Ermish sells some. Even if you buy something from Troy, you would still likely need to "adjust" the actual thickness to match whatever exhaust manifold/header you have. CraZee if you want to go back, there should be a casting # on the top of the rear intake runner ie W58 if it is a late L20B. The L16 L18 manifold is different.

I get so frustrated when Mitch McConnell etc etc side with the libtards on some of these policies. I can see some of it, but there have been times when it makes no sense, so THAT tells me that republican has an agenda of some sort. I trust VERY FEW democratic politicians & there are a few republican politicians too!! 😡

I'm a red head.........that was offensive 😜 😲 😭

Dig thru rubbertherightway.com's website! They do list the Z car rubber parts, but nothing else. If you find something on the website, but need a little more info, Clayton seems to at least have an interest in our old Datsuns! He & I figured out that his part #10-205X (pair) of outer rubber door glass wipes work GREAT on the 510 & Z cars! I am currently looking at finding an inner & outer fuzzy wipes that will work for my 1972 521 pick up.................... If you do call, tell him TJ in Denver sent you!

Nice! What part of MD (I grew up in Silver Spring) & where did you find this? I would say it looks like a GREAT Z to start with!! 😎

Welcome & great history! 😎 PS kfvintagejdm.com released patch panels about 2 years ago & coming out with more! The Wolf Steel/Alfa Parts patch panels are HORRIBLE.............please don't waste your mulla!!