az_rat210

Its far easier to pull out the entire Unit as a Single Piece. That way you can take it apart, replace the 30 year old insulation, clean any crap out and get it all put together right. The Entire unit is held in by a bolt going through a Bracket at the top of the Dash, and 2 screws, one on either side that screw into brackets on the Firewall. Another reason to pull the whole unit out is because the rubber inlet hose coming from the Drivers side, connects into a Metal Connecting tube on the Back side, which goes into another rubber hose that then comes around behind the Heater Unit and U turns into the front of the Heater Core. That Metal Joiner Tube has a tendency to be rusted out. I replaced mine with Copper Tubing to avoid the rust problem.

Some thoughts to try and help out. Questions: 1) When it dies does it stutter or Flat Line? 2) Does it restart up immediately or in a few seconds? 3) Does it always cutout at the same speed range, say +/- 5 MPH? If 1) = Flat Line 2) = Yes 3) = Yes Then its possibly Vapor Lock. Could be as simple as the Fuel Line being too close to a heat source.

I hate to tell you this, but that clock is wrong by about 43 Trillion. It only shows the Public Claimed Deficit. :confused: In point of fact, the United States currently suffers from a 54 Trillion:eek: Dollar debt. The Country Originally declared Bankruptcy in 1938.:blink: :poop::poop::poop:

I tried the Plastic Dash cover for my B210 Dash, they fit like crap. However, I found a thread long ago on how to repair and recover a Dash. The process involved removing the dash, and wherever the plastic cover had cracked and bubbled up, sanding it down to level. Then filling the cracks with Bondo, or a hard foam. Sanding it smooth. Cover it with a foam Pad and then lay vinyl over it. Turned out pretty nice, and I covered in the color I wanted. I just went hunting on Google. I do believe below is the link I used 2 years ago for directions. Hope it helps for ideas. http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/5139_dashboard_rebuild/index.html

Actually you can beat the Factory Coil Setup. As mentioned above, MSD Blaster 2 Coil, they are designed to handle 12-14 volts direct. Pull Power direct from the battery via a Bosch Relay for a Full 14.5 Volts, you get a 48-50K Spark to Plugs. More Power, Better Mileage. Works every time on the older cars, as you're no longer suffering a voltage drop across all the ignition wires. Erm, but that is just the coil, not the distributor......I do still use the factory electronic ignition module.:D Solid Transistor State for surivability.:P

I appreciate all the responses. Negotiating for one from Seattle at present for $75.00. For some reason, adding the word Craigslist to my search never crossed my mind.:rolleyes: Thanks again for all the help. Now I have to figure out what to do about the park bench bumpers. A hacksaw and Sledgehammer come to mind.

So many cars to restore....so little funds.

[rant on]:mad: Yes, I smoke. The taxes piss me off.. However, even if I quit...which I am trying to do, the taxes piss me off. Excessive Government, Overtaxation, Misrepresentation, Big Government. The whole spiel violates everything We The People intended. Health Cost? Not a Government Responsibility. Its like Welfare, the Bailout and every Subsidized Socialist Program, not a Government Responsibility. And not our Duty as a People to subsidize or support it. The State operates based on the Authority Delegated to it by the People, but its now destroying us. Think about it. Arizona, American Spirits $8.64 a pack at Circle K. It cost at most $2.00 to make a pack of cigarettes. That comes out to a 300% increase in taxation:blink:. The Boston Tea Party was over a 2% tax increase. So to Big Brother I say :fu::fu::fu::fu::fu: [rant off]

Thanks Rubberman. The second one has a photo and is exactly what I was looking for.

I need a Grille for my 75 B210. The one with the Round Turn Lights. Someone stole the one off my 78 B210.:blink::blink:

Too get the car in my sig on the road. Needs: 1) Brakes Bled 2) Seats 3) Grill 4) Bumpers 5) Remount front windshield 6) Double Check Torque of Transmission Mount 7) Register/Insure Once it is on the road. 1) TAKE A BREAK!!! For a few weeks anyways. 2) Finish Interior 3) Install Air Conditioning back in [summers coming]:eek::blink:

T-Mobile Pre-paid. $100=1000 minutes good for a year. I usually have 200 or so minutes left when I purchase more to extend the minutes for another 12 months. I just seem to hate phones.

Crimson Metallic would look good, as well as a Deep Burgundy Metallic. A quality Deep Blue does also. I vote Crimson.

If anyone wants an easier change over, the 89-91 Maxima Alternator is 90 Amps. You drill out the bottom hole a bit bigger to accept the bottom back bolt. Switch the pulley over to replace the serpentine belt pulled. Obtain the correct plug from an alternator shop (you can ask them about which wire is which for the internal requlator). Attach and done. I have had no issues with it on my B210....works great.:thumbsup:

Datsuns come Hack Job from the Factory. Splicing inside the Wiring Harness instead of having a common point for the power wires? :blink::blink::blink: Life is better when your wiring is organized.

Here is the Wiki Link for going into a 1200. http://wiki.datsun1200.com/index.php/Engine_Swaps Pretty much what will fit a 1200 will fita B210/120Y. B210 is just a tad wider. I still seem to be link posting challenged though.

Unfortunately No, I cannot cut and weld. I can drill though:D I was looking at the setup again this weekend, dimpling would probably work real well. the Header comes down right against the Steering Gear Box, and meets just below the top. A 1/8 inch flat spot would probably work just fine. I was just thinking I did not want to have a variance in back pressure amongst the cylinders, but these headers are not tuned to the motor so I doubt a dimple would make all that much of a difference. Guess I will dredge out the Sledge Hammer, or ask the Exhaust Shop to flatten it a bit when I get it over there. On the bright side, after a year of reassembly, ITS RUNNING!!:thumbsup: Now I have to get the exhaust, take it back to the body shop for a redo. Guy who did it was fairly certain I would ding things up during a ground up rebuild. He was right....dammit. p.s. Thanks for help on this one.

Not trying to insult anyones intelligence with this. But whenever I have had a problem that I know is the distributor the first thing I do, is realign the distributor to No 1 Position at TDC on the No 1 Cylinder Compression Stroke. Is it possible that on initial alignment your No 1 Cylinder was not on the compression stroke when aligning to 0 TDC? Just a thought. And if you're using a Transistor Style Electronic Ignition, there should be 2 wires going from the distributor back to the box. (at least there is on my A-Series Motor). Other possibilities could be that the Diagphram in the Vacuum advance Module on the Dizzy is bad. That would create a vacuum leak which could impact how it runs.

I own a 75 B210. A15 Motor with Thunderbird Headers. The outer most header pipe is right against the Steering Gear Box. Will it hurt anything if I shift the motor a quarter inch towards the passenger side, in for the Header to clear the steering gear box?

2 Things. 1) There is a company in Australia that makes a Kit to fit the CA18 motors to the 120Y/B210's. 2) If that is a 5-Speed, feel free to inquire as to my shipping address.:D

On a more serious note, I read on the web about replacing the locks with those round style key locks. This would avoid the issue of someone taking a screwdriver and just popping the locks out. Unfortunately, I cannot remember whether I read it here or on yahoo forum or elsewhere. I will see if I can find some further information on the locks I am talking about.

Wires in the seat, only you know you need a rubber mat. A cell phone to a bomb. If it does come up missing, make a call so you can locate it...just follow the Datsun Shattering KABOOM!!

Short Story for you. I grew up as an Army Brat over in Germany. A 20 Year old G.I. Slammed my older brother against a Dumpster in an attempt to force Sex from him. As I told the G.I I might only be 6, but at 7 Yards I wont miss, this Target Arrow does not give a DAMN who's holding the string. i.e. My Dad taught me well. It is possible to teach a child to use a weapon responsibly and appropriately.

140Z L14/160Z L16. South Africa Only, cause they had their own plant. To get in U.S. would require mass amounts of shipping cost. :blink: I would cry now, but their is no emoticon for it. So I curse instead. :curse: :jealous:

Determine what you want to achieve first. MPG vs Horsepower, enviromental, etc. After that, below are some various options to consider (note: I said consider, not do outright). Be sure you have an idea of the ramifications of your actions before proceeding. The web is great for finding various options. If you keep the smog equipment, there are 2 changes that will improve things. 1) Change the catalytic converter. Modern converters breath much better than the old charcoal style converters. 2) Crankcase to Intake hose, run it through an oil trap. This will clean up the air going into the intake from there. Otherwise, if you are going to remove the smog equipment then do the following. 1) Remove the Air Pump. Where hose goes into manifold beside the Thermostat, put a bolt in to plug that hole. 1 Less Belted item is that much less drag on the engine, freeing up a couple of horses. 2) Block off your EGR, or change the vacuum out somehow so it only happens at idle. 3) KEEP the charcoal canister hookup, this traps and pulls vapors from the gas tank. You want to have those vapors going into the engine. 4) Consider a Weber DGV 32/36 carb, better fuel mileage and power. Datsun1200.com is a great site for researching the A-Series engine. Hope this helps out some.