az_rat210

Here is a link I often look at for wiring Relays. Relay Wiring The use of a quenching diode is a good idea to prevent feedback in the curcuit after the circuit is shut off.

My 75 is running a 2" exhaust off the stock manifold through a small Thrush Turbo Muffler, with a Resonator before the muffler. Appears to have good flow, and the resonator brings the sound down pretty deep. No Fart Can sounds hear.

Add: Oil Drained Jack under tail end of tranny with mount unbolted (3 bolts hold mount to body) You may have to unhang the exhaust in the rear to get to the driver side bolts. All bolts holding tranny to motor removed (there is a depth variation on the bolts, keep track of what goes where. Have a piece of cardboard with holes in it, as you remove the bolts put them in the appropriate hole on cardboard). Wiring disconnected from the neutral safety switch, reverse light switch.

:crying:

I actually have not shot it yet. I have 200 rds ready to put through it and never seem to get out to a range. /facepalm I like the weight and feel but would like an ambidextrous safety. The over sized beavertail safety makes it difficult to cock left handed. (I am working on a system to train both right and left handed shooting and being able to switch eye-dominance.) That being said all the reports I have read say the gun just gets better and better after shooting.

I want one, but the A-Series is a tabbed cap, will it fit?

Good Question Mike, I had missed this part. Looks like he took car of the stall issue with rejetting except on downshifting but it still sounds like starvation (thats why I suggested the float level or fuel pressure, as it was so condition specific). Be interested to know exactly what fixes it besides a carb replacement, that shouldn't be needed.

Based on what you have said. The motor runs well, pulls hard, runs hard and the description about almost dying sometimes and other times not means one of two things to me. 1) Low Float Setting 2) Or if you are running a fuel pressure controller, the pressure may not be high enough to keep the float bowl full when you punch it causing momentary starvation. (I had a similar issue when running my fuel pressure at 1.5 lbs instead of 2 or 2.5). Check those.

I purchased a set of NEAPCO 1-0028 U-Joints to replace the Joints on my Staked Driveshaft. I wound up asking Precision Engineering to Press the one worn joint out and press in a new one. A good thing because the Joint that NEAPCO says fits Datsuns is 3.74 MM too short on the C-Clip. On the CAP it is 9.30 MM deep and to fit the clips the shop had to shave off approximately 3/16" of metal (3-4 mm) to allow the clips to fit. The actual depth needed is approx 12 MM.

If you are still looking for a grill the best I can do is point you towards ACS Auto here in Tucson. ACS Auto Wreckers 4353 East Illinois Street, Tucson, AZ 85714 (520) 747-8965 acsauto@azstarnet.com He has 2 or 3 210's there, one may have the square headlight grill with good trim.

ACS Auto Wreckers 4353 East Illinois Street, Tucson, AZ 85714 (520) 747-8965 acsauto@azstarnet.com Myron is the owner, Larry may answer though. Has access to at least 4 Dry Heads and one wet. There are 3 B210's there and 3 210's. There is also a person in the 210 Yahoo Group selling brand new heads (no goodies attached) he is wanting several $100 though I think. All have the Smog, as the oldest B210 is a 77, othere is a 78.

As it turns out I wound up with an NOS Drive shaft, it was supposed to be for my 75 B210.

I like his Parts Car....erm, I mean his B210. Clean

If you mean the plastic inside the door you can get rid of it but you would want something in there to prevent getting any water on the press board door covering. When I had a stereo in my car I made Kick Panel speaker holders. It is closer to equal distance to both speakers than door mounting and sounds better. You also do not need to worry about water getting on the speakers. How you do the sound proofing is ultimately up to you, half inch thick CCF will not fit the doors of course but would work well for the floorboard, but would be difficult to fit over the tunnel and still mount a center console, hand brake etc. You could do the 1/2" CCF on floorboard, get some CLD tiles to completely cover the Transmission Tunnel, drape 1/8" CCF over the tunnel and have it overlap the 1/2" on the floorboard. This would provide a continuous Sound Barrier on the floor. The B210 definitely gets alot of its noise via panel resonance and transmission to the interior. Start with finding any holes to the interior that are not plugged and close them up. Make sure your Door and Window Rubber is good. Run the 1/2" CCF to cover your entire Firewall, Floor Pan, Tranny Tunnel and behind the back seat. Test and see how it sounds. If the noise is reduced you can go from there, perhaps adding the CLD Tiles to the roof, Transmission Tunnel, and using Butyl Tape on the Crash Panels in the door, cracks over wheel wells. The fresh air vents on the right and left let in a lot of noise from outside, you might plug those with blocking plates.

I had a 80 310GX that had 106K when I bought it, drove it for 8 Years no problems with it. I read somewhere that the 310 has that long front end because Nissan had intended to also make a RWD version of the car. It would actually be fun to convert one of these.

"sigh" I might even be able to make that, depends on if I get the car a bit more highway stable or not. I need to drill out the staked u-joints and put in these Neapco Joints I purchased.

If you are wanting to quiet the car a bit with as low a cost or weight gain as possible do it in stages. 1) add butyl tape into the top of the crash panels on the door, cover with some aluminum to keep dirt out. This will lower the resonance frequency of the door by splitting the single out skin into two separate panels for resonance purposes. (try it, I did it as a test to see if the guy at sounddeadenershowdown.com was right and it works a treat). 2) You can get 1 or two boxes of damplifier from Second Skin, to bring down panel resonance on the inner body panels. It only takes a 25% coverage to accomplish this. I will note I went with the thinner stuff they had (about 1/16" thick) and covered my entire floor pan, but I have a hatchback so my Fuel Tank acted as a sound amplifier into my cab. Since yours is a Coupe you would only need to block sound real well behind the driver seat. CLD, Closed Cell Foam and MLV would take care of that. 3) Lowes as a 1/4" thick closed cell foam mat that is designed to help avoid foot exhaustion for people who stand all day. Runs $4.14 per foot (3' wide), I think it took 8' to complete my entire cabin including up the firewall. Below is a copy of the materials qoute I got from Don Sambrook at Sound Deadener Showdown. However I went with the matting from Lowes for my floor and the Second Skin option as they are here in Tucson. I skipped the MLV as it would add way to much weight to the car and would only be on the floors. There is not enough room on our doors for it and Don had mentioned if there is insufficient room to do the CCF rather than the MLV for effectiveness and water proofing. Also remember the cost I was looking as is for a Hatchback not a Coupe. =========================================================== I forgot the 15"X51" panel below the hatch. I'll be adding: 4 CLD Tiles 5.4 ft² MLV 5.4 ft² 1/8" CCF 2 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides I'll price it both ways since you don't seem all that jazzed about the Second Skin option :) With CLD Tiles: 69 CLD Tiles @ 2.25 = $155.25 1 85.5 ft² roll MLV @ 146.38 = 146.38 3 sheets 1/4" CCF @ 27.65 = 82.95 4 sheets 1/8" CCF @ 14.95 = 59.80 2 Velcro Strips, adh. 2 sides, 10-pack @ 14.65 = 29.30 1 Velcro Strips, adh. 2 sides, 2-pack @ 3.25 = 3.25 1 8 oz can HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement @ 8.50 = 8.50 1 2" Maple Roller (Free w/ 60+ CLD Tiles) N/C Sub Total: $485.43 Shipping for MLV: 99.17 Shipping for Balance: 64.62 Total: $649.22 Without CLD Tiles: 1 85.5 ft² roll MLV @ 146.38 = 146.38 3 sheets 1/4" CCF @ 27.65 = 82.95 4 sheets 1/8" CCF @ 14.95 = 59.80 2 Velcro Strips, adh. 2 sides, 10-pack @ 14.65 = 29.30 1 Velcro Strips, adh. 2 sides, 2-pack @ 3.25 = 3.25 1 8 oz can HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement @ 8.50 = 8.50 1 2" Maple Roller (Free w/ 60+ CLD Tiles) N/C Sub Total: $330.18 Shipping for MLV: 99.17 Shipping for Balance: 25.20 Total: $455.55 ======================= I hope this helps you our to quiet the ride. James

Thank you for the write up. I am in the process of doing this now with my B210 Heater Valve. For the Tabs it can initially be difficult to get a flat bladed screwdriver in under the Tabs, if so use a pair of angled tweezers to clear enough room for the screwdriver to fit. Make sure they are good steel tweezers though. ---- Had the switch pressure tested and it is sealed up fine. Thanks again, the $35.00 saved is paying for the heater core repair.

I know this is an old post but as an over the phone PC Rep and ex-microsoft support rep. there are just some things that should be noted. 1) Msconfig is for troubleshooting purposes. If you want to disable most programs from loading at startup, going into the options of the program and turn off the selection that says "Load at Startup", yahoo messenger and other chat programs all have this. 2) From Windows 2000 on the OS maintains a file list of your hard drive which uses up system resources. Turn off System Indexing For Faster File Searching. This is accomplished by right clicking a hard drive and unchecking it in Windows XP onward. You may receive an error from the system about file access, just click "Ignore All" and let Indexing be turned off for everything it can. The process takes a while (this also speeds up fresh installations). 3) Windows managed swap files use up system resources. Right click My Computer, choose properties (or open system properties in the control panel) go the Advanced Tab, under Performance click Settings, go to Advanced tab again. Choose a Custom Swap file size, set to 1.5x your Ram. 1 MB is 1024 kilobytes, 1 gigabyte is 1024 megabytes. So if you have 8 gb of ram, multiply 8x1024x1.5=122888 gig swap file. If you do have programs loading at startup that you cannot get rid of, the open Registry Editor. Most all programs load from HKLM\software\microsoft\windows\current version\run or HKCU\softwaremicrosoft\windows\current version\run. A trick is to use msconfig to deselect the programs you do not want loading, reboot and then open Regedit. A temporary key is created call _Run, and you can delete that key, but its best if you just turn the program off inside its options. Note that if you do the msconfig/_Run trick that msconfig is restored to Normal Startup minus the entries you left unchecked. Be careful using malware/spyware programs as often times entries can be identified as a Virus or Malware that are actually crucial to a program you have on the computer, especially if the program uses ActiveX/Scripting or .NET Framework. Ccleaner works sweet. Be careful of the options you use, as it has choices that reset windows size settings, the startup menu and can delete you desktop shortcuts. Googles searches for Tweaks, Tricks and Tips to improve Windows Performance are very helpful. Whatever options chosed, make use of the Web, and understand what you are getting rid of before taking action. Hope this helps everyone out.

I have had the clanking noise occur when I seated my distributor on the exhaust stroke of the No 1 cylinder instead of the compression stroke. Recheck the alignment if you removed the distributor at some point. If the distributor was not removed then its not the issue. If the car dies when foot is removed from pedal this could be fuel cut off solenoid going bad. Easy to check, take out the solenoid and remove the needle, see if the car idles after that, if so its the solenoid. Cap off all vacuum ports while getting the car running right to ensure no vacuum leaks. Once the motor is running well then you can hook up vacuum lines and troubleshoot those. The oil leak at back of Valve cover could be due to the lip being bent upwards. (lips on these valve covers is very thin). To fix the leak on mine, I took off the cover, gasket clean all surfaces with acetone, made sure there was no residue or build up whatsoever, ensured the lip was straight all the way around. If you look inside the valve cover around the edge is a raised lip that is supposed to provide seal on the gasket. Sometimes its necessary to apply gasket sealer though. If this were my car I would do the following steps. 1) Re-Align distributor on Compression Stroke of No 1 cylinder 2) Plug all vacuum lines and remove the fuel cut-off solenoid needle. (your brake booster vacuum is still connected). 3) See if I could get the car running properly at 8 degrees BTDC. Some observations: You are missing 2 heat shields and exhaust manifold is not wrapped, this may cause problems once the car is warmed up with vapor lock. You might consider getting some heat wrap to put around that exhaust manifold to reduce the amount of heat coming up to the Carburetor. I note this is a water cooled intake manifold so with the heat wrap you should be good to avoid vapor lock. Good luck with this. Hope you have it running soon.

What I have: 1975 Datsun B210 Hatchback, A15 (oil pan modded to fit) has a longer stroke thus more low end torque 2" Exhaust (Stock Exhaust Manifold) Do Not add a Header if you are already running larger exhaust than the stock 1" pipe MSD Blaster 2 Coil (bosch relay setup to pull 14.5 volts directly from the battery to positive hook up) That alone will increase your MPG by 2-3 on the Automatic. (it did just that on my 78 B210) Put a Larger Negative Cable from battery to Chassis to improve voltage flow 5-Speed FSW60A (from 79-82 Datsun 210) running into the stock 4-speed driveshaft which is the same as the automatic drive shaft, but slighty different length by about an inch. Differential is the 3.9 Automatic Rearend. Carb Weber 32/36 DGV ---- If you just want to see an improvement immediately do the bosch relay to pull power directly from the battery. It makes a 50K volt spark. Improvement is immediately noticeable as your idle will increase by about 300-400 rpm (as its burning the fuel better) I do 85 at 3200 rpm in 5th gear. On any On-Ramp I can be up to 85+ before time to merge. Its not fast but its not a 12 second 0-60 either and I still get 30 MPG.

I ran into the exact same problem. The 5-Speed Rear Mount did not fit my 75 B210, so I used the 4-Speed Mount with 1/2" or 1" spacers to get it closer to the correct height. The 4-Speed had a mount height of 1" but the 5-Speed (FS5W60A) has a mount height of 2". I am running from memory here and would have to get under the car to check it, but I think the above is accurate. I plan on taking it to a shop and asking someone to make up a bracket that will have the engine at the correct angle.

Yes, Rivergate, the FS5W60A is used in sprite conversions. Rivergate does mods to make the FS5W60A fit and has rebuild kits. Here is the phone number for Rivergate Restoration Projects. At present their site appears inoperative. 423-332-2030 Hope this helps

Here are some photos of my weber installed on an A-15 This is showing the Charcoal Canister. The small inlet you can get activation vacuum by T-Connecting with Distributor Vacuum. These are of Weber Vacuum connections. The forward one is distributor vacuum, the one back of it is for EGR. This is my linkage setup. Just reverse the stock hitachi Linkage, flip it upside down, you can hook up the cable. You will note mine is missing a bottom portion because I cut it off. The bracket came with the Carb from Redline.