az_rat210

DOH! you are correct. I flipped the hitachi lever so it pulls from left side so I had a way to mount the cable, since the weber does not have a built in cable mount like the hitachi. Either way, it works fine.

The Hitachi pulls via cable towards the passenger side of vehicle. The Weber 32/35 will pull towards the drivers side. I just used the lever from my hitachi and flipped it upside down cable could pull towards driver side. Used the Weber bracket to hold the cable.

What Mirrors are you using on the car?

I have found this little guy helps immensely getting to those screws.

All right.

Merry Xmas to all and a Datmas too.

In case I do not make it on here tomorrow. To all my fellow Veterans glad to see you survived, do not forget those freebies out there. To those who have not served but have lost a family member who did, my condolences and find peace in the fact we remember them also and thank them for the sacrifice. az_rat210 James

Pulled my slave and clutch master cylinders and cleaned them. Car is driving very well now. Thanks again for all your advice.

I retorqued the head this morning. 4 of the bolts moved at 55 ft/lbs then I readjusted the valves to .010 cold which if its a snug fit (not just a little drag but a little hard to pull out) then the valves come out to .014 when hot (at 180 degrees F). No more smoking and the car is running great, well enough in fact that the idle screw on my weber is just touching the throttle plate at 750 rpm. While the car sat though I seem to have lost clutch, so now I need to adjust that and hopefully the slave cylinder is not dried out. Oh the joy of cars. Thank you all for support, help and advice.

Update: The head gasket is replaced, and not leaking. It was a torque issue as the bolt holes which I thought were clean were not. Anyways the car is running smoother, no overheating as yet. I did not have a lifter tick before relacing the head gasket and now I do. Valves were readjusted to .33 (.013) cold and all the lifters are under the tabs like they should be. Should I have gone with .014 cold instead? And yes I put all the lifters back into the slot they came out of, I made sure to keep track of that. It smokes when I rev up a bit, I think I will wait until the motor has cooled overnight, reject my torque settings which are currently at 55 ft/lbs and readjust the lifters to .014 cold and see how that does.

Same head, new head gasket with copper sealant. And my thought is it should not have leaked with out pressure either. If it had waited until the system was presurrized then I would say I screwed up on the gasket or surface. I will be disassembling it again to see what happened. It is the same head and bolts, and something getting into the bolt passages while I was not looking has occurred to me. I will just have to try again.

Can there be an upside down to these gaskets? All the holes lined up even if I flipped it end for end; I made sure of that. I did copper coat the gasket which should have helped it seal better. Bear in mind I have only put the vehicle back together, it has yet to be run and the cooling system is not under pressure. This leak is like a bucket with no bottom. I purchased a DNJ head kit but the head gasket actually sucked. None of the water passage holes lined up on it so I used another gasket I had. The gasket used is a multilayer, metal sheet in the middle between an upper and lower layer of something.

I just replaced the head gasket, and when I put water in the cooling system is pours out the back of the head right where the gasket is. The freeze plug and heater connection all stay nice and dry. Maybe the gasket slipped or a piece of dirt or rock got under there between me blowing it clean, recleaning the surfaces and then putting on the gasket and head. But it is definitely between the head and block.

AAAAAND put water in the cooling system and it is pouring out the back side of head. Looks like this is a total bust. Ah well, I tried.

My A15 goes into a 2" pipe back to a turbo muffler with a resonance chamber before the muffler. Nice low base w/o being obnoxiously loud like fart cans. Seems to flow fine, definitely better than the stock exhaust did. I still have good velocity at the tail pipe.

I have the head gasket replaced and copper coated. Torqued the bolts down in sequence 3 stages last at 52 lbs. Old oil still looks good so I was think I will run it with some ATF first to clean it then do an oil change and at the same time run a vinegar/watter mix through the cooling system to flush it. Let is sit over night, retorque the bolts and the oil change and add proper coolant. I think that should do it as long as the head gasket has a good seal.

Aw crap, the gasket set I ordered off rockauto is from DNJ. :poop:

Thanks Mike, Will skip that metal gasket then for a head gasket kit and buy a brass wire wheel.

Question 1: 1) Does this look like its a metal gasket and if so, am I better off using it. 2) What are you all using to sand/clean off the mating surfaces. 3) My intake gaskets looks to be in good condition, not sure whether to reuse it or not. Was thinking of buying a new one from rockauto see below. But it says its an H7410 and mine is a H72 head. H7410 is supposed to be round port not oval according to Datsun 1200 tech wiki. Would prefer a copper protected one but it's na on rockauto.

Some A series motors have coolant passages from head to the intake, but mine does not.

Do I want a head gasket for an A15 or for an A14. It's an A15 block with an H89 Oval Port A14 head on it. With all the years I have been working on my own cars, this will be the first time I have gone into a motor. Suggestions on the best head gasket along with prayers the head is not warped.

I have been using up water, so today I retightened the cylinder head bolts to 51 ft lbs (in pattern). Warmed up the motor then went to adjust valves. In the process something seems to have broken badly as with spark plugs removed the No 4 cylinder is spray water out on the compression stroke. No water in the oil yet, but Head Gasket or do you think I might have cracked the block on this A15 with A14 H89 Head. Thoughts?

Granted my car is a B210 not a 720, but with that said. For seals on my rear tail lights I obtained some closed cell foam like is used for sealing doors on houses, from Ace Hardware to use. Just cut it to size and inserted. Not sure if that would work for you or not, but hope it helps.

Actually yes, Kirk made a comment about Scotty just taking the actual manhours and multiplying by 4x. Scotty responds, How else would I look like a miracle worker?

Now thats Ratsun Repair (or would that be redneck), either way; If it's crazy and it works, it ain't crazy.