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About Spiff

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    Advanced Member

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  • Cars
    720, mazda b2200, merc s320
  • Interests
    cars, motorcycles, anything with an engine.

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  1. Yeah nah this is not by any means easy to spin by hand. Damn I regret tossing the z20 pump now 😛
  2. I'm carefull with rtv myself as I have experienced it almost blocking the oil screen of my old motorcycle, some of the pieces where red rtv but I haven't used any red rtv so It must be something that has been somewhere in the engine from before. I tried to rub the bores and rotors with a fine wet sanding paper but it didn't help, the pump is still really hard to turn by hand. I wonder; if it's hard to turn by hand, surely it's gonna put an extra load on the engine? could it affect idling if it's sticking enough? I have had a hard time dialing in the idle on this, I'll put it at 800rpm and it'll run fine there and then some other time it's barely staying alive... 😕 I've ordered a new one now, fedex usually take a week or so from the US. Yes I've posted about this on that group too
  3. Here is a log from today as i started it. you can see the oil pressure fluctuating very much. Perhaps because the oil is cold the pressure gets so high the regulator piston gets pushed back and sticks before it works loose again and the cycle repeats untill the oil/engine gets warmer?? Or something is blocking the inlet or something. I don't know... I'm thinking I'm gonna replace the oilpump, new oil and filter and cross my fingers and say a little prayer.... There might be damaged bearings, there might not be, It's not making any abnormal sounds (yet). So we'll see how that goes..
  4. Is this a bad thing or a good thing? Back to my engine; I drained the oil today, could not see anything blocking the pickup. The pump however.... Follow this link for pictures of the rotors and regulator piston https://photos.app.goo.gl/cXwkDL6Wxw3zH1HB7 Looks like someone has tried to run gravel through it. I also see signs of rust so it's clearly been stored dry for a long time. The regulator piston was hard to remove, like it was catching or sticking. Also turning the pump over by hand you feel it catching on a couple of places as you turn it. The oil was also shimmering, sadly all that glitters is not gold but I guess that is to be expected with carnage like this. Cut up the oil filter too and found some small metallic pieces in it. Also found tiny pieces of rtv and generally a lot of crap in the filter, I guess that doesn't help with pressure either...
  5. Yeah we didn't really get any ka's over here. Nearly all the trucks where diesels, s13 and 14 had the ca or Sr. So rockauto is the place for me. I see they have hitachi, Melling and a couple of others. The hitachi is marked as "actual oem part", is that right?
  6. Unfortunately I don't. But the thing you mention about casting flash is something I have read about while searching the net, well maybe not exactly casting flash but the regulator getting stuck on non oem pumps. Whatever it is, if I find something I'll be sure to update this thread.
  7. Yes, it's basically making the same pressure as the junkyard unknown mileage z20 I pulled out of the truck. So I asked about this because I've read the ka pump seems to bump up the pressure as well a little bit but several people said no you're good. Its more volume, not pressure. So I don't know anymore. What I know is a loss of oil pressure is definitely not good. Rod bearings where replaced so they should be good. I was asked about the oil pickup as well but I think if it was loose or anything a loss of pressure should show up during driving/higher rpm too? I'm gonna inspect it with a boroscope when I drain the oil. Bad pump i have considered, it really seems like the most obvious cause doesn't it? I checked that the rotors where the bigger type but didn't dvelve deeper into it, but it seems like something regulating the pressure sticks or is open or something. So I'm thinking I'll pull it and see if I can spot anything. Unfortunately I don't have easy access to a new one. Need to order from the US or something. Sender seems unlikely as its a brand new honeywell sensor and the oem pressure switch is also new and that they both fail and start working again at the exact same time on different circuits would be pretty wild.
  8. I seem to have made a comma mistake in my original post. Edited that now. When warm (oil temp around 80c) pressure is about 70kpa on idle 220-250 at 2000rpm rising to about 400-420 at 3000rpm
  9. On two occasions now I have had the oil light not going off after restarting the engine while hot. No oil pressure was also verified by the pressure sensor feeding the ecu. I also reviewed some log files and found one occasion where oil pressure dropped momentarily and then picked up again right after starting it cold. This didn't go low enough to trigger the oem oil light switch though but still went from 500kpa to 30. Anyone know where to start looking? It's a newly assembled engine with new oil pump(hv one). I have shut it down and after restarting it oil pressure is fine(however this morning it had to be started two times before oil pressure returned to normal. I need to change the oil and filter this weekend and I'll probably pull the oil pump too. Anything in particular I should be looking for? I haven't lost pressure during driving or higher rpm I should add, only on idle right after starting it
  10. The heater valve/watercock in my 720 has developed a slight leak and new ones are NLA. But I see several new for the 240z for sale online (probably repros?) so I was wondering if it would be a viable option to use the internals from this to overhaul my leaky one? I assume its one of rubber seals in it thats bad. I saw it done on a 510(using a 620 watercock) http://www.510coop.com/completed/heater.htm The plunger body on my 720 looks similar enough to the 240 one so...
  11. Spiff

    3-4" lowering U-bolts

    I bought U-bolts from summit racing. I know they're not in europe but they ship worldwide and have heaps of options for lengths so it was the easiest option...
  12. Spiff


    Either get a new used one or have your broken one repaired. There is probably more than just one place to have it serviced in the US I would think. It could also be as simple as a broken solder joint, or one of the wires to the coil thing that drives the needle, those wires are really thin.
  13. The internet isn't completely wrong in this case it's just that for the US an lsd was probably never an option. We got them over here in Europe, maybe not all of europe but at least for Norway it seems most diesel 4x4 720's had a rear clsd in a c200 axle. They also have very low gearing of 4,88 or something like that. Sadly this doesn't help you guys though(and it's difficult to find one even here)
  14. There isn't enough depth in the glove compartment to fit a cd player. You can fit a shallow mediaplayer in there, they're like half the depth of a normal one. Other options: -You could buy an amplifier with built in bluetooth and hide it under the seat or dash -You can use an fm transmitter with bluetooth or aux and use your original radio -You can hardwire an aux-in to your original radio. -Buy a media player that looks retro like the retrosound ones, there are other ones as well.
  15. Spiff

    How I turboed my 720

    Correct, the manifold is round port so you need to open it up a bit for the square z24 ports. Also you need to make a little notch in the 24 head for the injector ports. You can see it here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/RZFGtR51gvUQrxAZA
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