benzo

congrats on your first build. not bad. what cam are using or spec wise? also you should look at switching to either some Z SU's modded from Z therapy or going dual mikuni's or webers 44's at minimum. I have a long rod 2.3 from Rebello and for sure can tell you it needs the 44's. I actually am supposedly running SK45's. Are you running 93 octane? I know most places outside of california provide that and if so that is good. I use 91 and had to watch the timing. For me it was easy I just follow what Rebello said and it is running fine. just maintaining it. I figured he is the engine builder. He was on dot with my hp #'s as I did dyno it and it made 140 whp but it was running rich hence Rebello made it like that to be safe running. I have not touched the jets but did move timing up a bit and made a difference but will not go more until I get my wideband out to check AF ratios and play with Jets. But for a small car the power you are making it moves still. good luck

I would clean off the spindle and check the race for where the bearing sits. if it is in knicked I would change out that whole spindle and bearings and hardware. that is if you want to make it last a long time. up to you if you want to do a quick fix but you will end up taking it apart again. as for a zx rotor fitting it won't different size. of course don't forget to repack the new bearings and get the seal and torque to correct rating to not crush the bearing good luck

oem window channel felt set. good to do two windows. I believe this may fit trucks also. 65.00 OEM inner window squeegees 15.00 per side. new set of NOS Tokico HP's HZ3003 fronts for stock 510 strut housings and rear HE2572. selling for 160.00 Datsun horn button. will fit most momo and sparco or Nardi wheels. nismo version.40.00. new leather datsun shift knob with Datsun red/white/blue logo 40.00 Momo horn button new.old school yellow arrow 40.00 datsun 510 hood bumpers new 20.00 jdm fuse box cover new 40.00/sold out for now used hood latch assembly for 510 40.00 IM me for pictures. please leave your email. buyer pays for shipping. paypal accepted. Thank you

that kit from Techno toy is not a bad price but you can check ermishracing as his kit is not bad either and I think it may be a bit more affordable. the price for the coilovers in front is not bad and that is what I sell it for also. as for welding you can bring it to anyone who welds and they should not charge you much to do the welding of the perches for the front. some will say get clamps to mount the front coilovers so you don't have to weld and I am sure that works also but for me I like the weld a bit more. as for rates I would go with what the kit gives you. Get to know the car and then go from there as you get more used to it and driving style. also roads are different everywhere so a rate for one persons use may be different from anothers. maybe a starter rate would be 225 to 300lb front

haha. you maybe correct. I am sure Mr. Squirrel would like that response. but then I again I would have to say wagons are cooler and sicker.

very helpful info. thank you sorry to jack this thread but for those looking for fuse box covers. I do sell jdm ones. I do have it on my classified ad. only thing they are in japanese writing but they are all brand new units.

4drs are pretty much the same as a 2 dr. lots like the sedan look which is cool. when I go to japan I see more sedans (4drs) than coupes. if you look at my flickr account under benzo510 you will see many 4 doors. I am considering one myself in the future. good luck and have fun

can't make JCCS this year but for sure next. need to make some local bay area meets also. I am trying to head to tokyo auto salon.

check out my pics of my car as well as others on my flickr account under benzo510. I use a cable I believe from lokar for GM modded. Contact Troy Ermish I think he does that cable mod and is in Fremont. I personally am not a fan of the linkage set ups. what is the exact issue you are having?

yeah I got to get out to that show to see it. I have missed it ever since it started. so much cool stuff to see. I personally like the yellow wagon with the longchamps. I am such a JDM fan.

Personally I would leave it in the stock location or close to the dist maybe near the headlight housing. I would not mount in car and make a long coil wire. supposedly you should have the shortest amount of wire possible and away from heat or have the wires shielded.

if you can get MR2 inserts for a good price go that way. as for coil overs be careful as sometimes you do get what you pay for. at least find out what coil rates they are using. as for the the control arms if that is what you are talking about I would not move them but get bump steer spacers. as for if the 13" wheels will fit not sure as some wheels do and some don't over zx brakes. the only 13's I know would be panasports or some jdm wheels depends on offset. I would consider moving up to 14" as tire choices are more abundant but then again a good looking set of 13's are nice at times. you should consider changing all the bushings and suspension items like ball joints and tie rods and for sure get alignment good luck

personally if all the cylinders are within 10% of each other and the motor is not burning huge amounts of oil or smoking mad leave it alone and save up to swap motors ot something healthier. The motor you have may be tired but still runs but there is no magic low budget thing to cure age you can just prolong it to buy time.

from what i understand I don't think it is good to mount old style oil bathed coils near heat and should be mounted sideways to let the oil inside cool better internally. I think if you want to mount any coil on a motor maybe get the epoxy filled units or go with another style coil. I personally think the stock 510 location if that is the car you have is fine.

Joel. here is my email bull_ogna@hotmail.com. in the case of a wagon you are right as some have pointed out that if you use blocks you don't move the shock height but moving to a shorter stroke shock could not hurt as that may help with better dampening. as for warranties you can warranty from the factory or through a dealer given a dealer knows how to do the program. what I normally do is have the person who is warrantying shocks buy a replacement first and then have them give the worn out ones so I can send to the factory and when the factory clears the old ones for warranty they issue me a credit and then I issue a credit the end user/purchaser. I have been so busy lately with wedding stuff I have not had a chance or enough money to try different shocks for my wagon. I will be testing out the 97-01 explorer fronts and camaros as well as others with similar mount points. It just takes time as I have to raid my friends warehouse and put all the shocks out and compare I personally would not go lower than 2" on a wagon as the diff will hit the driveline tunnel. mine is hitting now. the only remedy would be to cut the tunnel and make another plate for more room but you have to see how much room you have for the rear seat to be in position. I also cut my bumpstops and that helped quite a bit for comfort without bottoming out. I personally have not seen cars that are super low handle any better. mainly for looks. to get good handling you need matched parts,good travel and good wheel and tire combinations. i have a rear bar and that helped a lot. just takes a bit getting used to in the beginning as it does create more oversteer. I am using the addco bar and it is not bad. there are not to many companes that make a rear bar. One item I feel wagons can benefit from is a panhardbar. anything more I would say go 4 link but that is a whole new story and money to bring up.

installed new dome light with brighter unit I got from Japan. lots brighter inside.

oem window channel felt set. good to do two windows. I believe this may fit trucks also. 60.00 Datsun horn button. will fit most momo and sparco or Nardi wheels. 50.00. new leather datsun shift knob with Datsun red/white/blue logo 50.00 Momo horn button new. 40.00 datsun 510 hood bumpers new 30.00 jdm fuse box cover new 50.00 IM me for pictures. please leave your email. buyer pays for shipping. paypal accepted with 3% fee. Thank you

Pm responded. send me your email for pics. thanks

personally what I would do and have seen is people put a pipe back and then route a hose to a crankcase breather tank. this way in case of any blowby the catch can catches the fumes and oil. you can also route a breather hose from the valve cover also to the breather tank.

it will work for all models. there is enough to do two doors。let me know if you want the kit. thanks

you are correct as the zx struts do have more travel but some make it even shorter for even more travel. 2 inch low is not a lot but some look at it as it never hurts to have more travel to make ride comfort well and maximize handling. tokico also offers lifetime warranty also. food for thought. also if you need tokico I supply them also as well as ground control

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for me I used 280ZX struts with ground control coil overs and tokico HP (blues) in front and tokico hp in the rear with 2 inch blocks. I would not go any lower unless you plan on doing some mods or going 4 link in the rear. KYB is good for the money and at this point anything is better than stock as the stock stuff is worn out. I would go Tokico over KYB as I know they can handle lowering better then KYB. I believe you can use a tokico shock insert from like a MR2 for the front and cut the housing to get more travel. this is better if you want a better ride quality. good luck with your choice.

I personally have never seen a light flywheel cause idle issues. a 8 lb or 9.5 in my opinion and experience will be fine for daily driving. if you are concerned then go with the 9.5 lb wheel. I personally feel you will like the response from a light flywheel. the main thing you want to do is get clutch that is streetable. that is the item that a lot of people choose incorrectly and end up with something too aggressive for daily driving. if you are not drag racing a lot or making a lot of power you don't need anything too crazy. I have seen many use a oem style pressure plate with a disc with two different materials. one side may look a stock oem material and the other may be like ceramic or metallic so if anything gets worn it will be the pressure plate or some choose to use it on the face side of a flywheel if you have a wheel that has a removable/replaceable contact surface. hope this helps. good luck

I have a stock unit lightened by rebello to about 12 lbs and it is nice for a daily driver and I live in san francisco with lots of hills. no ill effects. if you want to go to 9 lbs i know there will not be a major issue but I would get a unit made for that weight versus milling a stock one down as taking off that much metal may make it scary and not as strong. I have used fidanza units in other cars and they work well. you can make a motor with the z22 bottom with a good ported head and intake system and cam matchup and make good power. 150 whp is not impossible but I bet you can make at least 130 whp and your car would really move still. good luck