benzo

For me I replaced the tie rods,ball joints,shock and springs when did the zx conversion, T/C bushings with experimental engineering kit, adjusted steering box and added a brace,idler bushings with experimental engineering delrin kit, got alignment. car is steady.

I would say that pull to one side feel when you hit ruts on the freeway may not be a loose steering box but maybe more the tension control rod bushings are worn out. I had that feeling and changed bushings and that helped a lot but all in all changing all bushings and worn out suspension parts and tightening up the steering box and getting a alignment did a lot for my car. car is steady at high speeds and drives well all in all.

oh yeah that also would work

well they stated in the ad bangkok but yes bangkok is easier to recognize and figured that but we had asked them several times what area they are in as if it is somewhere we know we can make it out to see them. My friend is thai and knows thailand well and if they responded to where they are we may of been able to locate them. the fact that we did not get a reponse after several attempts and ample duration of time made me weary of sellers like this. makes me think they have something to hide. In a ideal world sellers should not sell stuff if they don't even have it in hand or can get quickly to make sales. but then again like buying things online it is buyer beware. I still don't trust ebay at times regardless of a sellers rating.

I have a wagon lowered about the same amount maybe more and I am using ZX struts and ground controls. I have very little negative camber or almost 0 camber. I am using bump steer spacers. The only way you can correct camber is either to use camber plates or bump steer spacers or even maybe adjustable control arms that can let you move the strut inward. also don't forget to get a alignment and adjust toe also. you should consider changing all bushings if you have not done so as the car is pretty old and a lot of the bushings are or maybe so worn it can cause a lot of freeplay in suspension adding to wearing out items like tires.

yeah i see these guys on ebay from Thailand and they have good prices and seem legit but recently my friend was going to Thailand and we had asked if we can come to pick up items and they never responded. seemded sort of shady

I saw this a while back from TWM and thought it would be a great set up for datsuns converting over to fuel injection. definitely better cold staring and round the town fuel economy.

welcome and good luck with the new home and family. I live in san francisco maybe we will meet up in the future. there are many others I want to meet also in the bay area and north

Hood bumpers are little rubber pieces that go on each side of the fenders so when the hood closes it rest on these to keep the hood from vibrating

I am interested in the tach for 60 obo? do you still have it? thanks Benzo

Yeah try contacting Dan at DGR fab. He may have some 1" bars from customers who swapped to SR/KA motors. I got one from him for a real good price. I have the addco and it works and fits well. if you are in LA try mario at TSR also.

Thanks Hainz for the diagram. my wires are sort of faded. I may switch back to my bosch coil and ballast resistor as I did not see a big improvement or maybe none to using the pertronix coil. all it did mainly was clean up the engine bay. to me it seemed maybe the bosch may have been better.

personally I would not lower a car too low. I know it looks good but sometimes it can hurt you handling wise. I would rather have better handling over looks. but anyways if you use a 3" block and then want to add a 1" to make 4" I would not just stack it. I would look at at least welding it to make sure they are one piece. as for the wedged style blocks I think those are good for say trucks/cars where you are mounting the axle under a leaf to raise a vehicle as that would really affect pinion angle but on 510 wagons the axle is above the leaf so what you are doing with the blocks are moving the axle closer to the chassis. now as for pinion angle. it would seem if the axle is going up higher it would make the pinion and axle more inline with the driveline but it is dangerous in terms of banging the driveshaft to the tunnel and diff housing on the chassis. now as to the 4 link if you do that handling would be better as you would have more control or adjustment due to helm joints and coilovers but that is up to the budget. take a look at the thread I believe jesusno2 is doing. that looks interesting and sane. as for me I use 2" blocks and new shocks and have been changing bushings and use a rear sway bar and handling is not bad. looks wise I am fine with 2" low. just need a panhard bar. Good luck and If anyone has anything to add to this would be great as education about suspension is good info to learn.

on my 510 wagon I am using the pertronix and pertronix 3 ohm coil and the red wire from the pertronix goes to the positive on the coil and the black goes to the pertronix to the negative of the coil. now the wires coming from the harness that went to the ballast resistor what seems to look like the black goes to the negative on the coil and the blk/blue and the blk/grn go to the positive side. and then there seems to be one left over black wire I have capped off. I am not using the ballast resistor.

update. well finally got to work on the wagon on christmas day and found out the rear lower spring bushings could work on the upper chassis mount. The only difference is the chassis bushings are a bit longer than the lowers but it does work. on my car the old bushings were not in bad shape but can tell the durometer from old to new was softer so this change should make handling a bit better due to less deflection. you can see pics on flickr site under benzo510 or myspace under garagelife.

I wonder if 510 wagons bushings would work? if so I may be able to get some still. I just got some for my wagon and about to install. can take pics and part #'s and dimensions.

like I had posted if you use the stock pump use the holley regulator you can get at summit. it works good. get a good liquid filled guage also. I used 1/4" fuel line and kept it all the same size. the only difference a electric fuel pump would make would make the car maybe start faster when the car has been sitting a while.

I still use the stock pump with dual mikuni's. I would get the holley regulator that can regulate 1-5 psi or something like that and a liquid filled guage and fittings not very expensive at all and it works. I used fuel injection hose from the pump to the regulator and then from regulator to the carbs. Very simple and clean and works. I can email pics if you want or you can see some on my flickr site benzo510 or myspace under garagelife

oem window channel felt set. good to do two windows. I believe this may fit trucks also. 45.00/sold one set. have one more set Datsun horn button. will fit most momo and sparco or Nardi wheels. 40.00. new Brand new ground control coil over kits for front of 510 or use on 510 with ZX struts 190.00 new. can order special rates if needed New Ground Control Rear coil over kit for 510 coupe or sedan with Koni shocks 520.00 set. New Tokico Illuminas BZ3038 250.00pr. if you want the 90-95 MR2 inserts BZ3125/3126 those are the same price leather datsun shift knob with Datsun red/white/blue logo 40.00 Momo horn button new. 40.00 datsun 510 hood bumpers new 20.00 jdm fuse box cover new 40.00 used hood latch cable assembly 40.00 obo 2 used oem domelights 15 each IM me for pictures or you can see them on myspace under garagelife. please leave your email. buyer pays for shipping. paypal accepted. Thank you

congrats on making that power. sounds nice also. I assume the car is pretty fun to drive. Is the motor running a bit rich?

This is a helpful write up. I just rebuilt my heater valve using a 620 heater valve inards. What I did for replacement hoses as it seemed dealers don't carry no more was I got a hose from a 92- 95 civic part # 79721-SR3-000 or any honda for the most part taking the heater hose from the head to heater control valve . that hose has a close 90 degree bend for the passenger side and also used some of the remainder hose to do the bit of straight on the driver side for the valve. I used honda heater hose clamps as those are a clamp that is meant for heater hoses not like standard clamps as those can cut hoses. I also cleaned out the core inside and out and hardware and fan assembly. make sure to test the core to make sure it is not leaky also.

This is a helpful write up. I just rebuilt my heater valve using a 620 heater valve inards. What I did for replacement hoses as it seemed dealers don't carry no more was I got a hose from a 92- civic part # 79721-SR3-000. that hose has a close 90 degree bend for the passenger side and also used some of the remainder hose to do the bit of straight on the driver side for the valve. I used honda heater hose clamps as those are a clamp that is meant for heater hoses not like standard clamps as those can cut hoses. I also cleaned out the core inside and out and hardware and fan assembly. make sure to test the core to make sure it is not leaky also.

Soon. will try to work on it this weekend and when done will post or direct all to pics. If all goes well I should be able to get more bushings for those that need them

worked on taking out the heater and rebuilding the heater control valve and replacing hoses and cleaning up the carpet. coming along nice

Just got some bushings in the mail and will try to install this weekend. let you all know how it goes