benzo

At first i was not liking the car or the matte black rat rod look as it seemed to be played out a lot lately but when i look at your car more I like it more. I liked it more with the pics of the steelies as opposed to the Z wheels. seems to add more character or reminds of some mooneyes old school stuff which is rad. I would like the car more with bumpers on and the front fender signals on. got to bring the back down but I bet you had that planned already

I brought over some mugen wheels years back but the place was in Japan and it was very secure and I wired money to them and in about 2 weeks they showed up at a different area at the airport. I had to go to customs and clear the paperwork and I don't remember paying fees but just took a while to get clear the paperwork. Once it did they told me to wait on the tarmac and a forklift came with the wheels. normally some places may say 3- 4 weeks as they may be sending it by boat and it takes a bit to fill the container and a while to clear customs and believe you have to go and pick them up at the port. I don't believe it will come to your door. That would probably cost a lot more. as for way to track it not sure. Did you wire money?

that car looks like a car troy ermish had in his shop a bit back. He had a friend or the guy that does muffler work convert a wagon to a two door. sort of like the toyota corolla wagons.

I emailed you the pics of what I have for sale

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I like the Z more. seems to handle better and more a sport car feel. I had a Z before and own a wagon now and I still would like to get another Z again. just has a good sports car feel

i agree with Datzenmike. I have a nissan comp header and for my Long rod motor it rubs the floor pan a bit as it is meant for a L16/L18 motor in a 510. I even heard from dave rebello who built my motor that even the stock manifolds are very good and told me if I change out to just get a stock manifold. he says he did not see any major change in hp and actually for lower rpm's the stock is better. If I get another man I will change out as I would like to get rid of the knocking at times. I know of other guys who have stock mans of hot motor setups with good results. I would say if you can jet hot coat it if you want cooler performance.

cool ass car. I would love to own one or a Z again. I was in japan last year and walking in Kyoto out in the burbs and heard something and turned and it was a skyline looking just like yours. sounded sweet and nice. came by so fast I could not get time to get my camera to get a pic. hold onto that car.

might have to make this one. lots closer to me.

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someone correct me if I am wrong. I would think you would have to drill and tap the manifold for a nipple to connect the vaccum advance as that distributor relies on it to perform well. If not you may have to use a dist like a single point with pertronix and have it recurved. I am running dual sidedrafts with the pertronix but I notice others who use sidedrafts with the matchbox dist hook up the vaccum advance. right now the motor may be loading up with fuel since the dual sides are adding more fuel and the dist is not firing off or timed correctly to burn off that feel giving that bogging situation.

nice score. let us know how it drives and what motor you are using and pics. always wanted to know how the single sidedraft runs.

The TC bushings if you are looking for oem go to Motorsport auto and order the ones for a Z. you can also get the delrin bushing as that is what I did and what a difference and it is not noisy like using urethane. if not you can get the delrin kit from carter boad at vg30.com. if you want to see it installed check out my myspace page under garagelife or my flickr site under smartmonkey

remembered seeing that vid a while back. very sweet and flat handling car.

That is one thing I like about Nitrous. lots of fun and not very expensive to start off and makes things interesting. I make good hp on my Lseries but I do remember driving turbo or Nitrous motors and it was lots of fun. you have the all around package. clean car. strong motor. have fun. Oh one thing i noticed and correct me if I am wrong. I think I see the nitrous nozzle close to the the throttle body. I notice that when you move the nozzle closer toward the filter the nitrous is smoother and lets the mixture atomize better. I used to do Nitrous on Ford Probe V6's and it made a difference and also on Hondas with dry kits unless you switch to Wet system or direct port. Have you looked at hogging out the throttle body and extrude honing the intake man.

as much as I like 510's or cars I would not spend too much on cars. I would rather keep the money and invest or use it toward owning a home. whoever has 50K for a 510 has either gots to be nuts or got a lot of money to burn.

just noticed something in the pic. I personally would re route the fuel line as that may become a fire hazard. rubber hose over a moving or vibrating motor can wear a hole in the hose and a fire will happen. i would also move the fuel filter more toward a area away from the motor as sometimes so many joints from clamps can cause a fire from a possible loose clamp. just don't want to see a cool potential ride go to toast.

would love to see pics of your work to get the paint off. let me know how it drives with the single side draft. here a lot of conflicting stories. is your motor a stock Lseries?

you should be able to get new tie rod ends and ball joints from a parts store. san jose area should have good shops. I would change all lower arm bushings with oem. idler with oem style or delrin. tension rod with stock style rubber or half stock rubber and delrin outer. steering box brace get from anyone or if you can wait I am making some more. bumpsteer spacers are nice to have also and of course get a alignment. it really depends on what you want out of the car and how much money you want to spend.

looks like a inner tie rod in the pic. I got those from my local parts guy. not very expensive at all. I think they were moog or some brand. most good parts houses should be able to get them. as for the idler bushings just get either oem or get the delrin bushings. I am going with oem on my car. I changed all other bushings and joints and what a difference.

I have a wagon and I used for the front 280ZX strut assemblies and brakes with tokico shocks and ground control coil overs with 300 lb springs with bumpsteer spacers,1" swaybar and I replaced all bushings and ball joints and tie rods and got a alignment and used 14" rims and the car drives good for san francisco streets. I am not very low but low enough to have a nice look. on the freeway it drives smooth. If you want you can also go short stroke shock and that should help with ride comfort. In the back I personally do not like being low. I am 2" with blocks and I believe that is good enough but depends on where you live. san francisco streets are not low friendly.

i used the 80/90 gear oil as that is what is said to use. you can also do adjustment to it also at that time you check fluids to try to get rid of freeplay or slop

not a bad looking start for a wagon. if you can get the primer off nice the yellow is nice. would look nice with those wheels. I really like the seats. just need some nice door panels and interior and it would be very nice. how does it drive with a single sidedraft? I have been wondering about that setup and hear the lynx manifold is nice to use.

that is nice. torque is sweet both NA and nitrous. real street ripper. got to see the graph. I bet it is very flat. It is kind of nice you went with a nice ecu and ignition control

yeah that is sad. I like hondas and the respect for where they came and where they are headed. same goes for toyota. sad that Nissan does not put more into it as they have been very important in japanese culture as well as motorsport culture.