benzo

for the most part. you should take a look at the outer squeegees and the door seals. if you want to add power locks and such I would for sure check the felt and squeegees inner and outer and change those at the time you take off the door panel. I know people also put sound deadening like dynamat inside the doors also if you wanna go that far

I just contacted Riley at Lynchburg and bought window channel felt at 48.75 for two doors. He also sold me inner squeeges at 11.00 ea. not bad. he was very nice and helpful. let you all know when the parts arrive and the fit.

selling a pair of used but almost new 8" long 2.5"id 200lb springs for 60.00. paypal accepted. buyer pays shipping. if you want pics message me Thank you

pair of used but almost new eibach ers springs. good for coil over set ups. 70.00 for the pair. buyer pays shipping. paypal accepted.

I guess choose a spot and I guess just stick to it and we can all do another location for future locations. I just think a spot just needs to be designated. as for bbq'in I am cool with that. Personally if I was hosting the meet I would supply the grill and coals but others attending should bring food or drinks. I would definitely bring food to cook and drinks. (hot dogs or links or short ribs or burgers). Let me (us) know a spot and date and I we can go from there.

yeah a outdoors place is cool. a place with parking and maybe eating or bbq spot is cool. maybe if there is a spot that would offer parking given attendees contribute something or buy some food that would be cool. I wonder about those 1/4 lb burger joints like in hayward if they would do something like that or a Mel's drive in or In and Out.

I would not mind meeting up. for me sf is best or maybe as far as Oakland,berkeley,san jose. I was wanting to do a meet also but with work it has been hard for me to email or message others to meet but since you brought it up I would like to meet others also Benzo

I guess it all depends on money and skill. I personally like torque and HP and yes I have been a honda fan and Nissan as well as chevy so I have a good feel of what is out there. I always wanted a S200o motor as I like Honda's motors and good mix of power and reliability. another motor I like is the SR20 but not too much into the turbo as I had turbo motors and they are one more variable to mess with. I really like the NA stuff. maybe I am gettin old another thing you have to remember is a lot of the newer honda motors are chain and not belt driven now. belts can and do stetch at high rpm's and you can do some damage to a motor. chains don't stretch so easy. a motor that is rev happy does not matter if it is chain or belt. more so in design and what the head and cams and valvetrain can flow. I have built some honda motors that rev to 9000 rpm but you have to watch the belts as they do stretch. good luck on deciding on a motor though and have fun as I guess that is essentially what it is all about.

Hey Hang 510 what is llRC Wagon? not sure what you meant?

thanks for the info. I did some searching and that helped show me pics of what to look for. just to clear so I can confirm the visual pic in my head. I take wagon diff chunk out of the housing and take off the side gears and put that on the truck diff and put the truck diff chunk into my wagon axle housing? does this sound correct? Thank you all the pics help a lot. hopefully if I can do this I can chronicle all of the work to show others to help them Benzo

If your motor is stock for the most part I would say use the stock manifold as it is not that bad. I would use a header if you have extensive work like more compression or head work and cam. Headers mainly help top end. Another advantage of the header may be weight savings but I have seen some strong L series motor even using stock manifolds. I am even considering changing back to a stock manifold for reliability and I am making a good amount of power.

Hi Datzenmike thanks for the info last time. I had a question. if I go to a junkyard what year truck should I look for to get the rear end with the 4.11 gears? I am not sure what the truck body looks like and what I should look for on the rear end. also could I just change out the center chunk without changing the whole axle on the wagon? I believe I heard or was told I can do this. Thanks Benzo

Hi all I have a 71 wagon and I have installed the Zx front brakes but was wondering about the master cylinder. my question is will the ZX master bolt right in? does it have the same mounting pattern? also will the difference in feel and performance from the stock 510 master be worth the replacement? Thanks Benzo

Thanks VG Wagon I totally was not thinking and I don't need to change shocks. if anything I should cut the bump stops a bit. Thanks all for the feedback

Yeah thanks for this info and I saw a post with the pic and I do have a 81 zx trans. yeah my first gear starts are a bit weak and my fifth gear is good on the freeway. I think maybe looking for a truck rear end with different gears may be what i need to do. I am thinking the 4.11 ratio. thanks for the feedback.

thanks Datzenmike. seems I would either need to change trans or rear gear or just live with it. curious if I change to the 77-80 trans do I need to mod the drive shaft. i assume not. Thank you Benzo

Hi all I have a 71 wagon with the stock rear end which I believe are 3.70 gears. I have a long rod motor and it makes good power and torque but I feel my trans may be holding the engine from getting the power to the wheels. I believe the car has a 81 280 ZX trans and I suspect the gear ratios may not be a good match for this motor and rear end. I am running 14" wheels. I am wondering if some of you out there may have some info that may help or may recommend a trans that may get the power and drivability correct. Thanks Benzo

for my car which similar to yours that vaccum line on the strut tower is for the original carb and runs back to the gas tank filler tube. you can leave that alone as it won't matter much. as for the nipple on the carbs I don't run any hoses off those either. I think some people that have a vaccum advance distributor run the hose from the dist to that nipple. I myself don't use those nipples to connect to anything.

I was going to either have rebello make me one of those Z24 bottoms with either a KA sohc head or dohc head and he said the reason he does those as some have Z24 blocks for cheap or free and it bolts in to the original X member and you can use the original oil pan and pickup and use a lseries dist. also since he builds them I am sure he does some tricks here and there to make them reliable and of course make power. I myself was going to attempt to make one as I have the block and have the tools to assemble a motor and am just curious on how it would turn out. I know a lot of people say rebello charges a lot but I have one of his long rod motors and for an old style motor it does make power and is pretty fun to drive. even with carbs it can hold up to a lot of more modern cars. Rebello did say the dohc cam heads are way better than the sohc cam heads and even with all the porting of the sohc heads it does not match up as well to even a stock dohc head port.

I personally like 195-60-14 or even 185-60-14 yokohama tires or dunlop rubber. don't get sumitomo. if you can find a 205-55-14 go for that but it may make the tires look fat. I think that 195-45-14 may be too low pro. might look like rubber bands on the car and your ride will be harsh for not that big of a performance from even 60 series tires.

to my knowledge the jets assuming we are talking about the same part should not be able to spin. They should be able to screw in and should be able to stop turning. if you can take a pic of what you are doing and post or send to me so I can see what you are going through. It is like I said in my past post and what had happened to me when the jets vibrate loose. it will cause the car to run bad. I bet this has something to do with your issues

If you changed the plugs and fixed that bad wire that is a good start. I would still look at the cap and rotor and make sure they are in good shape. also consider doing a valve adjustment and get a synchrometer to make sure carbs are synched. I would also open up the covers on the mikuni's to check to see if any jets are loose or if there is debris in there. after all of this I would try to get or use a wideband or air fuel meter and analyze and then consider rejetting the carbs

I personally like japanese imports for the nice feel of power and ability to make flexible power and handling which works for daily use. I have much respect and own a old school chevy truck in the clean lines and personality of american muscle. but all in all old school jdm and u.s. muscle both rock as they are simple and have personality as well as respect by all who drive,own or see them as well as laid down the road for a lot of cars that are on the road today. Benzo

I would check the basics. fuel and spark and check condition of plugs,cap and rotor, timing, also another thing is make sure the jets have not vibrated loose. I had this happen and made my engine run bad at idle but ok when on throttle. after you get it running right if everything checks out try to tune the car with a wideband meter or on a dyno and you may have to get some jets. I am going to be doing this soon on my car to try to fine tune it. good luck Benzo

I have talked to Dave Rebello and he recommends the DE head if I can get one as he says it will blow away the sohc head. I guess I will just have to find out on my own unless I come up with a load of cash and just have Dave Rebello build the motor. I have one of his motors now and it is fun to drive. I rather build on my own to learn and improve on. I have all the tools to assemble motors just need some time and money