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What about swapping the steering wheel? With the stock wheel in my 620 with an old bench seat it was tight... brushed my legs getting in. Went to a smaller aftermarket wheel and gained some space that way. Don’t hit the wheel now. Stock wheel was to thin for my liking anyway.

Side note - Anyone know what the thread pitch is for the nuts that hold the grill badge on? Found out mine was just glued on... nearly lost it!

Waiting for a hydraulic press to pop out the old bushings from the LCAs before I can put the front end back together so messing around with a few little things. Swapped a new volt meter in. Nothing special there. Also made a simple mount and moved the fuel pump. It had been on its side in the back corner or the trunk, but I didn’t really like the placement and carter pumps are supposed to be mounted vertically- so threw this together real quick with some spare aluminum sheet I had laying around. I’ll shorten the fuel line and lengthen the wires at some point.

Or if you plan on sound deadening a layer of that would probably work too.

I have driven it- to be honest I couldn’t tell you though... the car is so loud... and with poly engine and trans there is a lot of vibration- including the metal t3 parcel shelf and rear firewall which definitely rattle. I do think it’s better then the metal ones which rattle really loudly. I did put a screw in the center of the panel to help reduce vibration if you did it right you could put some thick foam rubber strips between the door and the panel to minimize any vibration.

Interesting seeing some real photos of that car- definitely rougher then it looks in all the touched up photos that have been used every other time it has sold. I do like the color and dig that engine set up. Those Z wheels aren't working for me... but it comes with the Longchamps.

Awesome I guessed correctly! As you said it probably doesn’t really matter...

I almost picked up the same wheels shortly after I got my truck! Excited to see how they look on yours. Truck looks to be coming along nicely!

I wish I had the space for a couch or something... but making the most of a small garage. If I ever get around to putting a bigger one in I will definitely add something to sit on- maybe pick up a few WRX seats and make some loungers out of them hahaha! I always liked having a beer from those while they were out of the car.

Met a local guy with a Z the other day which inspired me to get some work done on the 510. I hadnt planned on working in the garage, but decided to give it a try. Pulled the truck out moved the 510 in an put the front up on jackstands. The floor isn't level enough that I would want to work truly underneath the car, but it seems to be holding pretty sturdy as it is. Untitled by D M, on Flickr Untitled by D M, on Flickr Starting tearing the front end apart with the plan to redo all of the steering linkages, bushings, and swap in my shorter struts with Koni Race inserts. Got the struts out and swapped the coilovers over, still need to swap the hubs and brake mounts over. Starting mocking up the steering linkage too. Untitled by D M, on Flickr The first question I have is on the TC rod bushings. The Moog replacements have a shape to them which is different then the stock ones. Not sure which orientation to mount them in. A Untitled by D M, on Flickr or B Untitled by D M, on Flickr Currently they are set up in the "A" orientation, not sure that it really matters though. Untitled by D M, on Flickr Untitled by D M, on Flickr Next up is to drop the old steering linkage, keeping the tie rods intact as possible so I can measure and transfer it over to the new ones. Also going to pull the LCAs and replace the bushings in them as well, will probably run to harbor freight tomorrow to grab their 6 ton bench top press for those.

Its amazing how much of a difference it makes. I had been using my craftsmen plastic box... plus what ever other storage each set came. Once I put em all in the roller it becomes so much faster and intuitive - you just learn to know that the 1/4"s are in the second on the right, the 3/8"s in the second on the left, the 1/2"s in 3rd on the right, electrical in the 4th on the left, screwdrivers in the top right... etc It makes for a tall workbench, but I have been building my benches tall enough to store the chest underneath. You could also pick up a piece of butcher block and cut it down to fit directly on top of the rolling chest for more rolling flexibility. Untitled by D M, on Flickr Love seeing shots of other peoples garage set ups.

Got the same chest- has worked quite well for me- even survived a crosscountry move full of tools at the hands of movers.

Its amazing what LED technology is doing. I put 4 shop lights in the back of my garage and it so bright now. I found myself wearing my sunglasses as safety glasses the other day! Having light just makes garages and work spaces sooo much better and more usable.

Didn’t sell on eBay— posted on Facebook now for $9800... smoking crack! I could be interested closer to 3k... but with an auto and rust... sorry not worth $9800

Did you think about a shorter spring? That would move the adjustable perches up the body and there for allow you to lower them further. It will lower the truck as you do so... you may want to run a helper spring to keep tension on the whole system when fully extended. If you want to keep your current ride height it wont help, but seems like your ride height is beyond what was "stock" or last shimmed/aligned too. I didnt read through the whole thread yet.. but just a thought. I essentially have the same problem of maxxed out coilover adjustment on my 510, but I still want to go lower, so I picked up a shorter spring to move the adjustable perches up higher on the body so I can therefore lower them further. Also looks like maybe you have less shock travel then suspension travel? If you remove the spring do you bottom out the shock before the arm hits the bump? - tough to say from the photo, but that would mean you compressed length is too long.

If you already have the wires--- then you just need a fuse panel. You could use something like z-store box, but you are adding some complexity in that you'll need to reference the z diagram and the 510 diagram to sort it out. If you are going to redo all the wiring I would update the fuse panel then for sure. You could also just pick up a universal block- something like this- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30001?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqfz6BRD8ARIsAIXQCf2ruJNPAau9Hd4_ZdVHNVlOhKopJQiEmIREUxT4jzmL6BogiwHnSIYaAkH5EALw_wcB - Never used the painless stuff, but seems to get decent reviews for the price. The biggest thing for me with a full kit was all the wires are labeled--- the downfall is you have a million colored wires --- if you do it yourself you could cut down on all those colors.

Even if you change the fuse box you are still stuck with all the older wiring throughout the car. If you are running a "stock" set up then no big deal... but if you are upgrading lights, engines, etc then you would be better suited by newer wiring. Your post mentions it all being a mess... so worth starting over? At $200 you are already more then half way there for a full rewire kit. If you already have some electrical know-how then totally doable. If not, its still very doable just takes longer. There are many on here that aren't fans of rewires... saying the the old harness works just fine... which it does if it's in good shape, if not its a constant battle chasing gremlins. I rewired both my 510 and 620 with the American Autowire Highway 15 kit. Both were pretty straightforward. I had no wiring experience before I started the 510 so it took me a few weekends. The 620 was a bit easier having done it once before. As Granyknot said--- I dont see the replacement fuse box by itself as much of an upgrade... just another patch... If you want to get real fancy you can get all the connections from vintage connections and so you limit your butts, splices, and connections.

The hard part is I need to be able to get the truck bed underneath it, which doesnt leave much room for an under support. Im not super worried about it... I don't use it very often and its pretty easy to push the truck in an out --- alot easier then getting the 510 back in the other corner atleast... The biggest thing I realized today, was I was thinking about picking up a 6 ton bench top press, which would have to go there, I think, so maybe I wont be bolting any of that stuff down... We'll see...

Keep your eyes peeled and save your pennies --- they are out there, and as said before they tend to come in waves. Your "below" the rust belt... but everything I have seen down that way is rusty... watch for rust! Certain spots aren't so bad to repair but others can be a nightmare. If you are lucky you might be able to pick up someone elses unfinished "imported" (from the west coast) project. Datsun prices are all over the board right now... everyone thinks their rusty mess is a gold mine, but if you wait you can get one for a reasonable price. The 720s seem to be a bit easier to come by and usually a little less expensive if you aren't picky. The early ones were still Datsuns before the name changed to Nissan. Keep your eye on facebook marketplace (change your location around too, although it seems they have now added a 500 mile radius). Craiglist and Search Tempest are still valuable, and usually have better deals, but they arent as active anymore. Good luck!

Garage is about 90% there --- still some clean up to do, and Ill probably add a few more shelves... but with rain in the forecast tomorrow I stuffed the truck in there! Enough room to get between them, and just enough room to access the tools and keep the bench usable. And if I really need access to the drill press while the truck is in there... I guess I could just work from the truck bed hahaha

Another thought... Sway Bars? Saw a post on Facebook about someone installing some Addcos... then saw that FutoFab makes them... There is definitely some good roll to this truck in the corners, but that is part of the fun I guess... Wheels are turning and I am thinking about maybe adding a pair.

Garage is about 90% there --- still some clean up to do, and Ill probably add a few more shelves... but with rain in the forecast tomorrow I stuffed the truck in there! Enough room to get between them, and just enough room to access the tools and keep the bench usable. And if I really need access to the drill press while the truck is in there... I guess I could just work from the truck bed hahaha

Depends on how low you go— but I’d probably advise against it. Both cause the wheel is low and cause the tailgate isn’t very tall. My wheel would definitely hit... these leafs are pretty soft I’m dropped on 3” blocks in the rear. That’s a Large 27.5+ bike with a 130mm fork and a big 3.0 tire up front. Ive never been a fan of carrying bikes over the tailgate either way... to much chance for it to get dinged up- and seen too many dented down tubes even with pads... just not a great way to carry bikes, but to each there own

Here’s one of threads about using the spacer https://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=29668&start=45 Bump back a page for some more info on fitment--- its for an SR but should be very similar to the KA as I had the same issues with the KA, I believe their end mount points are the same. https://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&p=268172

Most people seem to use the stock L series engine mounts in the lower holes, but they bind a bit... I had trouble with that and ultimately couldn't use them. I went with McKinney mounts, but wasn't super impressed with them, and I dont know if they are even operational any more... There is a post on the 510Realm about using 1/2" spacers between the block and the iron mounts to align the iron mounts with the stock L series isolators--- I'll see about digging it up... but it looked good and I have been planning on trying that at some point. Side note - I also had my iron mounts off the block tweaked to set the engine back another ~1" in the engine bay. Puts it very close to the firewall... but should help with the weight dist. Needs more LOW! But definitely missing alot of weight so who knows where it will end up Looking good!