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Everything posted by demo243

  1. demo243

    Datsun BBQ......

    Planning on it! Hustling to to get her together
  2. demo243

    Datsun BBQ......

    Random Harley that showed up
  3. demo243

    Datsun BBQ......

    Bummer dude What happened? get it sorted out???
  4. demo243

    Datsun BBQ......

    I got a spare block too, but sounds like Lozer has you cvered. Got heads and other crap too Anyone got a shorty ka24de header? Or anything other then an obx? Having header problems with my swap
  5. I knew it wasn't gonna a be easy ... Especially with carbs:... But I did think the actual mounting wouldn't be the easiest not the hardest.......
  6. It just suprises me that no one makes mounts... I mean come on someone makes em to swap into an AE86... Up in norcal- but Rag10 is gonna help me out with the mounts
  7. Sorry all- been busy .... lazy... and frustrated.... time for some more updates Distributor block off- Trigger wheel sensor Then came the fun.... Been around with the motor and trans mounts for more hours then Im willing to admit.... this is the most frustrating part... With the T3 trans mount forward it puts the engine way to far forward... with it back facing it actually puts it in a nice spot with the engine pretty close to the fire wall.... but this requires new hard motor mounts... also the t3 trans xmember even with the energy suspension bushing is going to require a spacer... pretty bummed on that.... also in trying to get everythign lined up I may have gotten a bit carried away with the cut off wheel... and this car is gonna need some sheet metal work... Also even with the engine and trans lose it still seems like the drivers side mount is further back then the passenger side.... no matter how I tweak it all anyway pictures are worth a thousand words or something like that Lots of clearance this way The angles are off too on the mounts verses the x-member... So super frustrated right now... really just want to load it on a trailer and drive it somewhere to have the engine/trans/driveshaft taken care of.... The other option is get some custom mounts fabbed kinda like the ones below... and then drill the holes for the soft mounts myself.... photo stolen from the510realm If using the stock 510 soft mounts Id like to pull them up to there stock positions too.... but I dont think i can take accurate measurements myself to make this happen..... Nobody said this would be easy....
  8. Block Mounts are definitely right. You can only mount then on their specific sides. The passenger side front is offset down to clear the filter adapter. Ive got both s13 and s14 block mounts and it looks like the s14 ones actually sit it just a hair back Going to cut some more of the trans tunnel as it seems to be hitting a little bit, but I dont want to cut to much since the trans actually needs to drop down about an inch to meet the x-member... need to get under there to look at driveline angles too though...
  9. Well its in- But it didnt go willingly.... and Im not particularly happy with how its sitting... Pan and Pick-Up showed up - Big Shout out to Trophy24!!! and some nice looking work by Ray at Garage Autohero Spec Stage 1 Clutch and Fidenza LW Flywheel Putting up a good fight.... Got it in the car with the header up but then ran into a clearance issue so ended up pulling it off to mess around with positioning. So its in.... But Im not happy with it... I forgot to snap a photo of it... but I can not get it to mount up on 510 soft mounts with the upper soft mount hole aligned with the lower x-member hole... passenger side will mount up but then the driver is about an inch behind where it needs to be... managed to wrangle it on there but then the driver side mount was super tweaked. Was able to get it in and bolted up with the McKinney Mounts, but this puts it higher then I want and still doesnt give me the clearance I want.... also puts the trans about an inch in front of the trans x-member. --- also I feel it might not be in the engine bay straight either (rear end of the motor kicked to the driver side a hair) Plenty of clearance on the driver side... Passenger side it super close though... and it shouldnt be this close based on the photos Ray sent me when he fabbed up the pan So I am thinking I need some custom block brackets to offset the motor back about an inch --- plenty of room to move it back I could potentially slot or re-drill the stock block brackets but that ill only get me 1/4-1/2" and I would like to go a full inch back- maybe a hair more... need to take some measurements But ideally I get something fabbed like what Duke or Creepy did - Dukes - Creepys - Or possibly something like the 620 mounts but those are fully fabbed.
  10. Can't weld... Yet... But I'll keep that in mind.
  11. Yea I'm in Pacifica I've read about those guys in the south bay too- they seem to have a good rep- I was gonna reach out to them about shortening and custom built too I saw you picked up that 510 with honda motor - I remember browsing through that build thread - I think he used the same wiring harness I'm planning on. How the wiring look? EDIT: I think that was a different yellow 510 on stanceworks with a Honda swap.... Idk been wasting to much time at work researching datsuns hahaha
  12. Bit out of order... One of these things is not like the other... pistons came with one wrong set of rings... who knows.... Head is on Cams in and timing done Did some header bashing for clearance Throttle position sensor mounted Simple throttle cable bracket but should work Teaser shot of the pan - should be here Wednesday or Thursday
  13. Ok time for some updates. Bottom end buttoned up Mostly buttoned up long block Block off plate for coolant out of the timing cover, also plugged the rear coolant- wish there was a better way then just a rubber plug... but that piece isnt moving... put a spare cap in the glove box so Ill be ready should it dry and crack Crank pulley before paint - they machined down the inner most belt so the trigger wheel was a press fit interface, couple tack welds to be safe, then balanced Had a scare with the crank pulley... not sure if I screwed up or the machine shop did, but the trigger wheel ended up about 2 teeth further before TDC then I originally wanted it... My plan was to run a bracket off the block for the magnetic sensor... but with it being 2 teeth off this put the sensor too low... spent about 2 hours trying to trouble shoot it before coming up with this plan, that I think will actually work out better for me since it will be easier to fab and I dont need to tap anything. Going to make the bracket out of .625" thick aluminum bar so it will be stiff and place the sensor right inline with the trigger wheel, the spacers were just to test it.
  14. Thanks! More updates to come soon! Pan should be here this week- long block is complete except for the pan and a block off plate or two. Hoping to get the engine in the car by this weekend at the latest. Then I can start wiring. Wahoo Moving along. Anyone have experience with driveshafts from the driveshaft shop? Will probably just have mine shortened... But if it needs new joints the cost may come close to a custom aluminum one from them....
  15. Wiseco - 8950XX what ships with the pistons. Not sure the specifics.
  16. Not running turbo - NA all the way! with Mikunis! Although not completely rulling out an eventual blow through set up........ doubtful though As Noted above wiseco call for .0158 first ring and .0194 2nd ring for NA Street/Strip Right now I am at .019 first and .017 second - so I can easily bump out the second ring to .019-.021 FSM states .017 1st and .019 second so I think thats where I'll end up. General consensus is though I could easily run .019 first and .021 second - only potential issue might be a bit extra blow by....
  17. doctor510 - Congrats on 510 post btw
  18. First engine build so I guess mistakes are bound to happen... Just happy I caught it before I fully built it up. Already have a parts/cost log... scary... Working on a measurement log as well. Just got caught up in the reference build thread and mixed the numbers up. Yea second ring. Wiseco says minimum for oil control rings is .010 which all just a bit bigger then that direct from wiseco so no need to file those.
  19. With everything I've got into this motor I'm just gonna do it right and order up 2 new ring sets. Thought I was doing good double checking everything and still screwed up jahaha
  20. Building a NA - will be running my mikuni 44s on it and eventually a stage 2 cam. Redline will likely be around 7k: The chart with the rings shows a .005 top and .0055 bottom ring multiplier - which equates to .017 top and .019 bottom for street/stock - nitrous or drag get a bigger gap
  21. So building my ka right now and I might have messed up Over bored to 89.5 running wiseco pistons Wisco says to run .017 top and .019 bottom. I was reading another build thread as a reference and mixed em up So I've got .019 top and .017 bottom (only on two pistons - realized before I gapped the other rings so I stopped) Wiseco says to gap the second ring larger to reduce top ring flutter or lifting .... Proper thing to do would be to order new rings. .... But how much of a difference will .002 make if I were to size up the 2nd to .021 and run .019 top and .020 or .021 2nd- which o believe are still with in factory spec
  22. I've got one- shoot me a pm. I snap some photos later.
  23. Rock auto of all places....
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