demo243

The cheap solution- https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/4-ft-x-6-ft-x-3-4-in-thick-rubber-stall-mat I threw one of these in the 620. People were worried about it trapping water underneath, but I have found it actually tend to keep water off the bed.

That thing looks in great shape! You should check out the bed on my 620 hahahah its got hacked fiberglass patches on it. In reality its still functional though...

I thought titan wheels need to be bored out for the 620? if so then a hub centric spacer would need to be too. if not hub centric then it might be ok

Wahoo!!!

What are the turns for each mixture screw? since that’s showing idle it could be as simple as that.

Could be the throttle plates sealing/not sealing completely? when are you checking your plugs? Technically to get a proper plug reading you should romp on it and shut it off immediately and then pull the plugs, no idling or cruising.

These pulled up on google pretty quick. Stud spacing and thread should be correct. Not positive on the bore. Never used em so no guarantee they fit. https://www.titanwheelaccessories.com/products/1-6x5-5-6x139-7-wheel-spacers-12x1-25-studs-for-infiniti-nissan-trucks-suvs?_pos=2&_sid=fd31f0cc2&_ss=r&variant=29220899848215

Got my front sway sorted out. In my rush to get something ordered I ended up ordering an endlink from ebay--- well I thought I ordered two... but only one arrived --- checked the order again and sure enough only one. This time I got smart and checked O'Reilly first. Should have done that the first time... They had Moog endlinks available same day! Ordered a pair of those and picked them up this afternoon. After that it was a pretty straightforward instal. I did end up trimming the sleeves down about 1.5cm... probably didnt need to go quite as short, but I just couldnt get enough compression on the endlink to get the nut threaded on. In the end the nuts are now bottomed out on the threads, but the bushing are bulged enough that I do not expect any issues. If it should loosen up later on Ill just add a few washers in there. Took it for a quick spin around the block and the truck definitely stays flatter. Can't wait to test it out more. I really missed driving this truck over the winter.

Which bump stops are those? I think I remember you mentioning it earlier... Looks like they could be easy for me to trim. 620 needs some new ones and if they are slightly narrower even better.

Posted on the KA thread on the realm, but saw this here and did some digging for some photos. This is how much I had to bash in the OBX/ISR header to get it to clear the steering box by a few mm - I might have even bashed it in even more... The bigger issue I had was that after the 2-1 connector it seemed to angle up right into the frame rail and floor... If your handy with a welder or have a good exhaust shop you could probably hack it up and make it work. Ultimately I wasn't happy running such a hacked header so I went with the shorty megan racing header. There are some knock offs of the megan header on ebay as well - or their used to be. As for ECUs - I believe either the Auto or Manual will work- I think I remember reading about a bunch of 240 guys running the Auto ECU for a higher rev limit. - but dont quote me on that its been a while since Ive done the research.

Unfortunately pretty much all the photos I saw that people posted on facebook look the same- either with the bar facing forward or reverse. Time will tell if its an issue. Still waiting for my endlinks to do the front so cant drive the truck yet to see how it is.

Those full radius stacks look rad!

Yea... Im 3" inches so I trimmed my bump stops which removed that point on them. I went ahead an installed the rear sway yesterday as you have it (as the instructions tell you to mount it) - I pulled my cut bumps and angled them too. One of these days I need to find a replacement option for them. We'll see how it goes... Tried to mount the front bar up to but I guess the '78-79 trucks need longer endlinks so I had to order up a set of those.

Ive been looking into them a bit since Mikunis are stupid expensive now... Supposedly the best of both worlds, more tunability like the Webers (and I think can run most of the Weber jets), but has the reliability or should a say stability of Mikunis in their ability to hold a tune. There are a few builds floating around with them, but really not much info. I think Redline sold them for a little bit, but now it seems you need to get them straight from Japan... If I find myself a 2 door 510 and do another carb KA swap I may run them since I wont be ponying up for Mikunis... Although I am also interested in running the Mikuni HSR bike carbs. I think one of the biggest advantages for Webers is just the availability and knowledge out there around them - with Pierce and Redline supplying them and who know how many mechanics (backyard and professional) that know how they work- there is just so much info. But I am partial to Mikunis - both from an ease of use (so far) and just an appearance standpoint.

Teaser Shot! Picked up a bunch of parts from a local 510 guy including these wheels. I didnt think they would even be close to fitting since they came off a flared car... but low and behold, we are CLOSE! I think they are 13x5.5s and are wrapped in some 215/50s that are old but in good shape. I need to swap a caliper bracket back in to hopefull clear them as the calipers are just dragging right now... but my other brackets should get me an extra mm or 2...3... Gotta check the rears as well but I think we'll be ok. Might even let me drop her a little bit more! Slamming this car!

Went ahead and just bolted the rear bar up. Posted it up on Facebook and a few people showed that they ran the bar reverse (extended out to the back of the frame)... thought about it for a few minutes, but decided I liked the cleaner look of it pointed forwards better--- and I didnt want to take the u-bolts off again... So I threw the axle on jackstands, pulled the wheels and jacked the truck up by the frame to get some more room between the frame and the leafs. Was able to just squeeze the drill in there and get the holes drilled. All back together Then I got to work on the front. Without a sway there already I was guessing a bit... but figured it had to go over the tie rods. Got it into place and then found out the end links were too short... gggrrrrr... In Dave's defense he does have it listed as up to '77 I believe... Post this on facebook as well and a couple people mentioned that the '78-79 trucks had longer endlinks... tired the local hardware store, but the longest bolt they had was 6" which is what was supplied- I need a 7-8" bolt to clear... A quick ebay search pulled up the "proper" endlinks for only $18 so I ordered a set of those. We'll see if that works when they get here.... Pretty bummed I didnt get to drive it this weekend... As I feel with most Datsun aftermarket parts... I wish it all just worked....

Started working on the rear sway this afternoon... but hit a snag... it seems as if the bar is a touch too wide. It essentially sits on top of the axle u-bolts and looks like it will hit the bump stops and potentially the frame on full compression. I shot Dave a note with some photos to see what he says. I can potentially notch the bump stops which solves that problem but still looks like it could hit the frame on a really hard bump. I also thought about the possibility of flipping the bar so it points backwards... but that wont solve that issue... just might make it slightly easier to install. Over all seems like it could have been positioned better--- or made a little bit narrower with a bit more flare at the ends to catch the frame. Anyone have any experience with this bar? Hoping to button it up tomorrow--- which means drilling the frame...

Any issues with the bumpstops/frame catching the sway bar? Working on installing my rear futofab sway now and it seems similar to yours - basically sitting on top of the u bolts and looks like the bump or frame will hit the bar on full compression... essentially taking away ~1" of travel from my already very little bit...

Depends on tire and wheel offset. I am running a 15x7 +20 w/ Falken 205/50 tire on it and I need a 10mm spacer to get the tire to clear the strut housing - so essentially a +15 wheel. With that set up and lowered pretty low on T3 conversion coilovers on stock 510 struts I still rub with rolled fenders. If you pulled them you might be able to get something more in there... but 15x8 I would think would be pushing it... I really want to run Rota TBTs but they are a 15x8 0 offset and there is no way I can fit them without a really good fender pull or flares. Why do you want to go so wide? What engine are you running? Unless your running some big power #s you really dont need anything wider then a 205 tire.

I believe it works for a '71 Manual Sedan Specifically - But sounds like it should work for '70-73. As with everything Datsun "your milage may vary" - I thought I mentioned it in my earlier post but looks like I didn't. Heres the link where it came from. https://www.z-car.com/blog/cars/datsun-510-wiring-diagram It came in handy for me - I have a '71 Manual Sedan... It also came in handy for me when I did my re-wire as it helped me to better understand how things tied together and how to re-use some of the stock switches and what not.

Sweet! Easy to pick up some hardware now.

Anyone happen to know the hardware size for the stock 620 sway mounts up front? The FutoFab bar says to re-use the hardware... but my truck doesnt have a sway on it. Havent crawled under there yet to figure it out...

First real warm spring day yesterday! Was able to steal out to the garage for a few minutes in the afternoon to pull the truck out. Didnt have time to do much... but tightened down the fuel line off the tank where it was leaking last time I drove it. Hoping thats all it was... Weekend looks like it might be "warm enough" so Ill try and get out to install the swaybars. Just need one more good rain to wash all the salt off and then Ill take them out on the road. The 510 is still in hibernation... little bit longer till that comes out.

Damn that truck looks clean! I need one more good rain up here to wash the salt off before I rip mine around... Sounds like your getting close!

Check the ground - My 620 had a bad ground when I got it. New battery cable and ground made all the difference. Had similar issues, sometimes it would start fine, other times it would be really slow to crank or not crank at all.