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Everything posted by demo243

  1. demo243

    245/70/16 Too Big?

    Don't know what the wheel specs are other then they are 15's --- these are 215/65r15s on my 620; 3" blocks on the back, and backed off torsion bars up front. The rear passenger side appears to just clear the fender, the rear driver just kisses the fender. Fronts are ok--- but I don't know the wheel offset or width.
  2. Thanks! Its kept under a cover right now so hopefully ok! Planning on keeping an eye underneath the mat either way.... easy enough to pull out if needed. Hopefully I'll get a new garage built this spring and I can then park it inside with the 510.
  3. demo243


    In what... ?!?!?!? Carbs!?!??
  4. Spent some good time driving it today! This thing is pretty fun to drive! Up to ~65 miles on it I think - Although I need to check the speedo against a measured mile... Seems to be pretty close based on the phone GPS though. For some details on the exhaust--- running the Megan Racing Shorty header. Had the local exhaust shop fab everything else up beyond that--- 2.5" tubing all the way; 4" Magnaflow Round Muffler; unknown resonator/muffler thing.... The shop did a nice job, used an angled flange to get it around the torsion bar, then back up under the truck, added a 2 bolt flange to make it easy to take on and off, then the magnaflow, then my unknown muffler, then a turned down tip to dump behind the bumper. Overall really happy with the sound! Sounds good, louder at high RPMs but not so loud that I need ear plugs.... and quiet enough down low that the wife is happy--- and probably my neighbors too.... Cut the bumpstops in half today as well since it was basically riding on them... definitely helped. No photos of that though... Had a small fuel leak pointed out to me by the exhaust shop--- looks to just be a old hose clamp on the line at the upper back of the tank. Easy fix. While I had the wheels off, I figured I would paint the new... but already rusting drums... I guess the grey paint they came with and machined surface wasnt going to last long.... Then took it for another rip up to Tractor Supply to pick up a bed mat --- 4'x6' ~1" stall mat for $45. Trim out the wheel wells and I am happy with it! Truck is running pretty well for the most part. Pulls strong. But it is having an intermittent stumble... seems to be mostly at partial throttle at ~2.5k rpms- ie when your just cruising... some sensor is obviously not working right... could be my single wire o2 only on the #4 cylinder... could be mad... could be tps... could be the idle air control that isn't working--- although that should only be idle.... Im sure it doesnt help that I am essentially reseting the ecu every time I park the truck either since there is a drain on the battery --- I am pretty sure I have that narrowed down to the alternator... Brakes are still soft... but drivable... I think once it gets warmer I am going to delete the booster--- I just like being able to hit the pedal and have the full feedback, like my 510 has--- probably bump up to a 7/8" master at the same time from a z-car since they were disc front and drum rear as well. Might delete the NSLV valve as well... we'll see... One last photo to leave on!
  5. demo243


    What's that KA for?!?!?
  6. Got the exhaust done today. It was 10 degrees when I left this morning to drive down to the exhaust shop.... one of those mornings where I really wished I left the heater in.... Truck was off the lift by the time I got back to the shop... but pics to come this weekend hopefully!
  7. Thats a sight for sore eyes!!!!!! Good to see Steezy again
  8. I had a new fresh 1 piece made up for my ka swap 620. Was about $350 a couple days at the local driveshaft shop. Just give them a call first and ask them which measurements they need
  9. demo243


    The Champion and Koyo radiators for the L series are very close to the stock size. You should be able to find some measurements from them. JEGS and Summit Racing will let you search radiators by size and inlet/outlet and other options --- Understanding that you might not be able to order from them... they are a very good resource for part numbers for both aftermarket and oem options
  10. demo243

    Brake bleeding help!

    If you pump the pedal does it build any pressure and get stiffer? Easier to feel with the truck off since the booster is out of the equation then. I've had issues with a bad master before where the lines bleed clean... but it was still pulling air in through the master-- so it would bleed clean and feel good... but then be soft and if I bled the master again I would get more air out of it. I might be having the same problem in my 620 now... could not get it bleed with the 2 person method... tried speed bleeders, but the ones I got didnt sit well in the caliper/wheel cylinder.... finally got a vacuum bleeder which helped--- allows me to build a solid pedal feel in 1 1/4 pumps on the pedal... but still not right, leading me to believe there is still air in the system. I think it maybe getting in through the bleeders as I bleed the system --- I need to pull the bleeders and tape them then try again. A note of caution on the 2 person bleed method--- I think it has a tendency to do damage on our old master cyclinders where the seals may not be as soft as they once were...
  11. That's odd.. I switched over to Flickr a while ago and my laptop is 9 years old? Still works... and my crappy Samsung s7 still works on Flickr too... A little more tedious on the phone... but doable...
  12. It was cold and windy today... but I braved it and did a quick ghetto alignment I'll check it again when it gets warmer... but it was about an 1" toe'ed in before and now its about 3/16ths toe'ed in - much closer to spec. With the toe alignment done it was time to drive her! A few laps around the block to get the steering wheel as straight as possible... and I was off! Took it to the gas station to fill her up with some good Shell 93 Then off to Tractor Supply - I think Im going to pick up a Stall Mat to use as a Bed Mat. Took a look today but didnt buy. Then stopped on my way home to grab some brewskies Definitely going to be a fun truck! Next stop is definitely the exhaust shop! I think I am partially deaf now from the hacked exhaust dumping underneath the driver seat.... Ran into a slight issue with it studdering... right around 2k rpm when at partial throttle it bogged down and nearly died... then it got pretty hot--- nearly 220.... seams like the same problem I had on the 510 which is that the thermostat on the KA is in a terrible place requiring the hot coolant to back track out to it to open.... instead of being forced against it by the water pump.... Will probably relocated the thermostat to the upper rad hose at some point like I did on the 510, its just much more consistent when it opens... Still needs some brake love too... it quickly builds pressure with one pump, and will stop even without pumping it... but not as good as I would like... Thinking about pulling the booster and going with a 15/16th 280zx master --- same as I have on the 510. I know it takes more effort... but as soon as your on the pedal your on the brakes, and the feedback is much better... we'll see.... Hard Parked for now! Hopefully exhaust Saturday... then I am going to rip the shit out of this truck ALL THE TIME!
  13. demo243

    KA with sidedrafts

    Off topic a bit... but interested to hear you experience with this once you get it installed.... I'm running one on my DE with the 240sx 5 speed and an aluminum driveshaft on my 510 and my trans sounds like tin can full of gravel on decel... sounds like some others have had similar experiences with the light weight flywheel... and that a heavier one quiets the noise--- I'm wondering if there isn't enough inertia to keep things from "bouncing" off each other in the trans.... revs real quick though...
  14. Make sure your plug wires are correct. And if you dropped the oil pump while doing rebuild make sure the shaft is correct as well. 180 degrees off on the shaft will not allow it to fire - might backfire here an there but won't go
  15. You can do it cold, but readjust it later... As Wayno said though... I doubt it's the valve lash... total lack of compression across all cylinders leads me to believe the cam isn't timed right... so your valves are all open at the wrong time
  16. Fel pro should be ok. Did you take the head off with the lower assembly set to TDC? Was the head set to TDC to match? Set the valve lash? - its supposed to be done warm... but this would at least ensure your within the realm of where you need to be - just gotta make sure both the lower and head are at matching TDC set up to ensure there is no valve interference
  17. What did you use as a reference to put the engine back together? Ie did you download a factory service manual or a Haynes manual? Did you follow all the steps? Did you double check yourself after each step?Did you take notes? When you took the head off did you wedge the timing chain? Or did you retime the whole engine? Got the right TDC? When I built my ka I taped a few sheets of paper to my work bench. Allowed me to take notes of torque specs, and order of tightening... etc... and I printed the factory service so I could actually check off steps.
  18. Stole a few more hours today. Put it up and put a vacuum on the brake lines-it's better, actually driveable... but still not 100%- I think I was pulling air through the bleeder threads, need to pull them and tape them... Got my license plate light working too. Just need the alignment and then I can drive it more then up and down the street--- which means I can get it down to the exhaust shop. Hopefully alignment this week- well see if the weather cooperates....
  19. demo243

    ka24de info

    Fyi- Fixed my rich issue with some new injectors- picked em up off Ebay rebuilt from some one with good reviews. Also for anyone looking for a direct from the coil tach signal on an s13 ka24de with the external coil- I used the green and black wire - tapped into it where it was already spliced
  20. Would make sense since the issue started after I ran it out of gas and who knows what is in that tank.... which reminds me I need to check the fuel filter too
  21. Stole some time this afternoon... picked up one of those cheap wifi camera things so I could see down into the intake and block without removing everything... glad I did! Was able to find the larger of the plastic pieces and snag it with one of those claw things... still missing a smaller piece of plastic... but no where to be seen... Then I got the new injectors installed--- just picked up some refurb'ed ones off ebay from someone with good reviews , cost 80 for all 4 instead of 80 for one...--- plugged everything back in and fired it up! Little bit of smoke... but slowly started to clear up... and actually stopped dripping... so definitely running better. Maybe I got a clogged injector? Also figured out which wire to use off the coil to tap into for the tack - tapped into the green and black wire off the coil and hooked it up to the coil - spot on the tach and it works!!!! Still hacked as a test... but will work for now till it warms up. Up next is alignment and exhaust... actually still need too get the brakes dialed... they are still soft...
  22. So we had a nice day in New England so I figured I would get out there and do some work.... Adjusted the drums a bit tighter which helped the brake pedal... but still not right. Pick up a vacuum bleeder to try that to see if I can pull any more of the crud and air out of the lines. Then decided to look into the rich condition a bit. Plugging and unplugging the MAF didnt seem to make a difference... but it was literally dripping out of the exhaust.... I had a whole plant... but then decided I would pull the injectors.... Yea... pulled the first, no problem... pulled the second and the filter got stuck.... pulled the third and well shit--- the oring, plastic tip and spacer above the oring got stuck in the hole.... tried to carefully grab them, was able to catch the oring... but both plastic pieces fell in... Well shit. Went to orielly and grabbed a grabber tool and went fishing--- no luck... turned it over with the starter a few times and didnt hear anything crunch... so at this point I think Im gonna just get some new injectors, fire it up, and hope the plastic pieces get blown out the exhaust..... Bugger.... Starting to really think about throwing carbs on this KA... but that adds alot of cost to this build....
  23. Nothing new to update on the truck... cold and snowy so no not much work going on.... Somethin did show up in the mail today though to keep me busy for a little bit....
  24. Long time no updates... car is tucked away in the garage for winter. I've pulled it out and ran it for a few minutes... but that's it... Starting to have some thoughts about cutting out the roll bar.... Still think I want the option of having one...it will always be a bit of a race car... but thinking a bolt in for the couple days a year it sees track use might be nice to allow for some rear seats... I think Busta Nut put some prelude seats in the back of his four door... looking to see about maybe put an wrx seat in the rear of a 4 door?!?!? Might just be the winter doldrums messing with my head.... Also need to plan on doing all the bushings up front and maybe some new lower control arms and rods in the spring
  25. Freshly painted black block with fresh brass freeze plugs... the best!!!!
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