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demo243

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Everything posted by demo243

  1. demo243

    Weight loss

    If you are asking about the Lexan windows - NO they are more trouble on a street car. Lexan scratches very easily and would be a nightmare on a street car.
  2. demo243

    Weight loss

    Have you swapped this engine in yet? Does it fit?? Straight 6's in 510s is not an easy swap. A quick search brings up 277lbs? for the engine. Thats without the transmission. I am not sure I believe this as both a SR and KA are heavier.... and the SR is an aluminum block... Either way you may consider a more tried an true 4 banger swap (SR or KA) - both engines with a turbo are easily capable of putting out big power numbers. As for weight, if you want it to still be street comfortable forget about loosing weight. Still dont know what you have in the car and what you are willing to do with out... but if you want to loose weight start with all the non essentials - headliner, backseat, smaller battery, carpet, sound deadening, speakers/audio... etc. At a certain point power out weighs weight loss... but also think about weight balance. If you cant get the 6 cyl. far enough back in the 510 engine bay it will throw off the balance. As has been said... you can save a hair of weight with some fiberglass body panels... but that adds alot of work to get fit and finished... or you can give up on any and all creature comforts and build a race car... Either way ... Lets see this car!
  3. demo243

    Weight loss

    Post some photos! what is left in the car? What are you willing to sacrifice? 4 doors are a little bit heavier to begin with I think... I’ll look back and see if I can find my corner weights with my old l20b. need some more info on what you still have in the car and what your willing to drop
  4. This truck is going to be SWEET! Cant wait to see it.
  5. I used to like BAT... they always had some cool cars that we pretty good deals... Now they are just driving prices up wild! Everyone with a rusted shell thinks they are sitting on a pot of gold. Cars that are worth $500 bucks are being advertised at $5-10,000! I know they will never get that price, but it has really driven up the cost of driveable cars. I have really started to hate the site.
  6. Glad to hear you got it figured out! Seems a lot of people are afraid to rewire their cars... but it’s not that bad and is so much nicer with new wires.
  7. I Was going to this fall but but a couple other things got in the way $ wise... probably in the spring- I think it would help drive a bility a lot... there is a lot of roll in the turns.
  8. Check the steering arm to strut bolts - especially if you are running bump steer spacers, if those come loose you will get play that could cause that wobble.
  9. Could be a number of things- when does it shake? Under braking? Under coasting? Under braking indicates pad material on the rotors or “warped” rotors. While coasting or under acceleration indicates something in the linkage- like worn tie rods.
  10. I used to say that... now mines pretty low. I’d go lower in the front of mine but then I can’t turn cause the tires rub to much hahaha
  11. Well I guess thats it... The end of Datsun Driving Season here in the northeast--- 4" of snow in Mass today... and the salt truck definitely drove by! Untitled by D M, on Flickr Hopefully I am wrong, and we get a good couple days of rain to wash the salt off and I can sneak a few more days in.
  12. Well I guess thats it... The end of Datsun Driving Season here in the northeast--- 4" of snow in Mass today... and the salt truck definitely drove by! Untitled by D M, on Flickr Hopefully I am wrong, and we get a good couple days of rain to wash the salt off and I can sneak a few more days in.
  13. The unfortunate early end to Datsun driving season... mine are tucked away in the garage... saw the salt truck drive by earlier, so unless we get a good couple days of rain they will stay there.
  14. demo243

    My 1971 521

    Just push the truck half out the garage then - achieves the same result of giving you space to pull the hoist back
  15. demo243

    My 1971 521

    Might help if you turn the truck around so you can pull the hoist with the engine out enough— or you can push the truck half out the garage to do that
  16. demo243

    My 1971 521

    I think you’ll have enough space- may have to shorten the chain on that harbor freight hoist and keep the chain on the engine short.
  17. demo243

    My 1971 521

    I got one of the levelers... but it ended up being more work then it was worth... at least for me. It was easier to just move things around by the tail end of the trans. Leveler also didnt let me get the angle steep enough to drop the combo in. It does add a good 10+" to the height you need to raise it as well so if you have a tight spot it will be tough.
  18. demo243

    My 1971 521

    Check out Fbook or Craiglist too- I scored a nice picker and engine stand for $100 bucks around the corner from me when I was in Cali. Worked out perfected--- picked up the KA for the 510 in the morning and grabbed the hoist and stand on my way home. They are big so people want to get ride of them.
  19. Just saw the photo you posted and got me thinking back to my old Tacoma. The 95-04 Tacomas have a very simple hitch. You would have to take some measurements and do some digging but there is a good chance you could find one in a junk yard --- or replacements are not that expensive. Could be a nice tucked up option. Here is a tucked version from All Pro Offroad designed to fit behind their bumper. Mounts between the frame rails. The stock hitch drops down a little bit further. https://allprooffroad.com/all-armor/1995-2004-toyota-tacoma-reciever-hitch-for-wrap-around-rear-bumper.html
  20. Prime driving season! Perfect for those adventures.
  21. Nice looking truck! Dig the new wheels! Everyone has their oil preferences... hahaha. I love mobil 1 but only in my Tacoma. For the dattos I use Valvoline VR1 racing oil- it has the extra zddp in it- just another option for you. The diesel oils might be cheaper. I don’t really need to use it anymore since I’m KA swapped in both... but probably still will.
  22. ok- just went and checked my setups. the only correction I made above is the grounds for the relays. low beam relay is grounded always to common ground. hi beam ground is run through the selector stalk when highs are turned on via the stalk both Low and highs are on. both my 510 and 620 are h4 bulb converted not that it should make a difference
  23. Happy to help! Id have to look into the stock light switch diagram a bit more - or maybe someone else can chime in, but if it isn’t capable of handling the power for the headlights run through it you could add a 3rd relay in there — or potentially reuse the stock original one in that spot. Relays essentially let you use a low power switch to turn on and off a high power accessory- if you aren’t familiar with them. They protect the switch and keep you from running to much power through them. Wiring is a bit weird, but overall fairy simple, just need to get in the right mindset hahah.
  24. Ill have to go check this afternoon and see if I can confirm this... but if I remember correctly this should help. I will preface this with saying both my 620 and my 510 have custom dashes so I didn't need to try to use the stock 510 or 620 headlight switch. With that in mind it was simpler to use the supplied American Autowire headlight switch which was designed to handle the power for the headlights run through it. For reference here is the quick schematic for the American Autowire set up (Highway 15) - you may need to open it up in my flickr page to get the full size or google it. I have this diagram in my 510 build photos--- BUT --- I did NOT wire it up this way --- helps for general idea of how the relays work though. So with all that info--- From the American Autowire Headlight switch --- Park Lights (Brown) went direct to the parking lights with the needed splicing/splits to get to all of them. Dimmer Feed (Yellow) --- this per American Autowire is supposed to go to their floor mounted dimmer switch for hi/low beam power, but I wanted to use the stock 510/620 stalk, so I ran the yellow feed wire to the new relays as the power from battery (30). Crtsy Dome (white) - didnt use since I dont have one. Gauge lights (grey) - to gauge lights HL power in from fuse panel (red) - power in from panel Park power in from panel (orange) - power in from panel Relay set up- Post 30 -- Yellow (from AAW light switch on above schematic)- Power from dimmer feed from american autowire switch, split into two wires and run to Post 30 on both relays. Post 85 - Ground — low beam relay always grounded to common ground- high beam relay grounded to common ground through hi-beam selector stalk Post 86 - Power In (generic) - Run to 86 on both relays to provide power for the relays to function --- be sure to run this from a switched power source! If it is run from a always on source it will drain your battery. Post 87 - Power out - Run from 87 to their respective bulbs (hi/low) with a split off the high to power the high beam indicator. Post 87a - not used Essentially my low beam relay is always on, and power to the lows is supplied through the AAW light switch—high beam headlight relay functions off of a switched ground which is provided by the turn signal/hi-low stalk and the relays have constant power to function. As I said I will try to confirm this later this afternoon.
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