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demo243

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Everything posted by demo243

  1. Yes used the factory Ignition switch on both. On the 510 I got the connection from Vintageconnections and connected it that way. On the 620 I just used female spade connectors on the ends of the wires.
  2. Here is the set up in my 510 - Hooked up all the relays under the glove box. Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Here is the set up in the 620 - Running a custom dash on this so the relays are behind that for the headlights 20191106_214945 by devon M, on Flickr
  3. Complete rewires can be done - done it in both my 510 and 620. Painless "can't" help you as all there stuff is ford/gm oriented... same as all the other wiring harness kits... but there are plenty of people who have used them. If you know anything about car electrical systems its not that bad a job, just takes some time and a little bit on ingenuity. I used the American Autowire Highway 15 kit for both of my rewires, but both cars are running pretty stripped down systems. Sounds like you are planning on running some additional items so it would probably be worth getting the 22 or similar kit so you have the spare fuses--- even if you don't use them as intended. You will have to re-use some of your plugs or you can get new ones from http://www.vintageconnections.com/ . Essentially you likely wont use any of the switches or connectors that come with the wiring kits. Although I did use the headlight switch on both cars and connected the lights with a bosche relay set up. Both jobs took me about 2 weekends to complete. I definitely recommend getting the CanAm box set up for the VG, made wiring in the KA in 620 super easy and keeps the engine wiring separate from the car harness. I'll dig up a couple photos of my two set ups
  4. Both a running full new wiring harnesses so the external regulator is removed, along with choke relay and what not. The KA alternator does has a two prong plug, and I believe the wiring of that plug is part of my problem. When I did a drain test, when I unplugged that 2 prong plug the light dimmed considerably. Need to do some more digging on the Alt wiring. Charges fine, but it is obviously drawing power when off.
  5. demo243

    my 1974 dats

    Both have KAs in them so updated to the KA alternator. Thanks! Ill order up one of the switches an see how it goes...
  6. demo243

    my 1974 dats

    Thats what I am looking at... one from ebay... guess Ill pull the trigger and see how it goes Yea new harness- American Autowire Highway 15 kit. Used the same kit for my 510 as well. Takes some time comparing diagrams and getting it figured out... but most all the wires a new an labeled now. Only big issue I have on both the 510 and the 620 is a drain on the battery--- but I think that is associated to the alternator... I think... On the truck right now I am just dealing with the Turn Signal Issue... reverse lights but I think that is just the switch, and the tach signal as well but that has to do with the KA swap.
  7. demo243

    my 1974 dats

    Did you rewire your turn signal switch? or get a new one? Looks like yours is pretty fresh. I just did a rewire of my 620 and I am having trouble with the rear brake lights/signals... when either the right or left is on both flash and when you press the brake both go solid... its like the interupter in the turn signal switch isnt working....
  8. They haven't salted the roads yet here... once they do datsun driving done
  9. I might be interested is that 4.88 gear set.... gotta get the truck driving first... Hoping to reg it in the next two weeks or so
  10. demo243

    Bent valve?

    Actually I have a digital copy of the '78 service manual I can send you. Dm your email and I can send it. Or check here-
  11. demo243

    Bent valve?

    The FSMs were available online off of one of the nissan web sites I heard they got taken down though... I'm sure some one has one. That l series book mentioned earlier is really good too. They can be found on ebay or amazon for a decent price sometimes
  12. I would say just build it and drive it! I hate seeing cars get passed along and never finished cause they aren't perfect... Just drive it! But back with your earlier comments now is a good time to take stock on the engine and see where you are at... if your sr20 is in pieces or not finished might be the perfect time to offload it for a complete and running drivetrain--- be it L, sr, or ka
  13. I looked back at my wiring... Dark Green + Black/Red are tied into the front turn signals and the dash indicators same as the diagrams... Light green + black/red are tied into the rears and spliced together after the hazard and turn switch. Flasher power in is seperate to both the hazards and turn signals since my fuse panel allows for it - both tied in through the blue wires... there is an aditional power wire that I had to both--- red and green--- but i pulled it and it seems it doesnt do anything.... tried looping the two green wires in the hazard switch and that didnt help either.... Not sure where to go with clearing up the rear tail light issue... according to my test light it stems from the switch... but could be in part of my wiring... hope that all makes sense...
  14. Yea adjusted the rear drums which helped The turns on my 510 work... but I dont have hazards... Truck has both turns and hazards.. but it's not canceling correctly... I have complicated it in both vehicles as I have rewired them both with a new fuse panel from american auto wire. I have a toggle in the 510 ready for the hazards but haven't figured out how to run the wiring... In the 620 I kept the stock hi/low/left/right and hazard switch... but it's still not working
  15. Got a few minutes to mess around... Still cant figure out what's going with the rear lights... I think there is an issue with the turn signal switch... seems like the brake cancel isn't functioning.... Brakes are still soft... but they will lock up at least 2 of the wheels.. so could just be how they are. I am running a 15/16 master in my 510 without a booster so thats the comparison... Still have something ticking on the left side of the engine. Kind of an intermittent electrical tick... bummer I'll try and get a video up later.... Didtn get to figure out the issue with reverse lights or plate light... or tach ... still lots to figure out
  16. If your messing with it sure ... a turbo gets more complicated... stock turbo with stock tune no issues... The other thing to keep in mind is how much power is too much... at what point is the car not "fun" to drive anymore... My 510 with a hopped up l20b, mikuni 44s and a big cam was a blast to hoon... just enough power to cause a ruckus and find the edge without doing mach 10 on back roads and risking impoundment ... the ka is fun but almost feels too much sometimes I miss my old turbo Subarus sometimes. But like the simplicity and instant throttle response of NA. KAs have a lot of good low end torque which is great for street driving too not having to wind it out all the time
  17. Definitely better to run separate gauges - coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure are priorities. Not sure about the SR, but the KA has two temp sensors in the outlet from the head, one is for the ECU and the other is a simple single wire for the dash gauge. You can use the single wire one to wire in an after market temp gauge. For Oil Pressure and Temp it will depend on what you have for outlets- again not sure what the SR has, but the KA has two off of the oil filter bracket, SR should be similar. If you have two and they both will clear the sending units you can run pressure off of one and temp off the other , the other option is to add a T fitting or get one of the oil filter spacers with additional sending unit mounts. I prefer electronic sending units/gauges, the mechanical temp gauges will likely require a bunch of adapters to run.... Speedhut has some nice gauges for pretty good prices and they come with sending units.
  18. Oh yea... post some pics!
  19. Congrats on the car! SRs typically fetch a bit more $ then a KA so get a good one if you trade it. Both engines have their advantages and disadvantages. The transmission will fit but you need to swap bell housings so better to trade engine and trans for engine and trans... or keep the sr trans as a spare. Essentially they are the same behind the bell housing.
  20. demo243

    StreetFighter 620

    Interesting... Might have to look into this.... I got something clicking - sounds electrical - on my KA swap right now coming from the left side of the engine
  21. Got a little more work done this weekend. Did the parasitic draw test and its not coming from the fuse panels... I think its related to the alternator. When I unplugged it the light dimmed--- didnt go out but dimmed --- and both the 510 and the truck are set up the same way so it would make sense. Need to do some more digging... Also unplugged the hazard switch, and the rear signals both still flash when either the left or right is selected, so its not back tracking through that, I am thinking maybe all the way back to the brake switch as when you choose a signal (left or right, or hazard) and stem on the brakes its not canceling and the indicators are coming up solid... need to go back and look at how I connected them all together... must have spliced something pre turn signal switch I think... Added in a circuit breaker on the main battery cable - there was a mega fuse already there, but I prefer to be able to easily kill power to the whole vehicle. Also added some new super fancy $7 floormats --- picked up some door mats from lowes for $7 each and trimmed em down. Not too bad... and hides the gross floors. 20191117_115626 by devon M, on Flickr 20191117_115637 by devon M, on Flickr Then got to work on the brakes.... still having trouble with them... bleed everything--- both front and rear master, front load sensing valve, front brakes, rear brakes, rear load sensing and center load sensing... still soft... did it again and same thing. A double pump stiffens the pedal up which leads me to believe there is still air trapped in the system somewhere.... they still seem to work, but not very confidence inspiring.... And then it began to snow--- well actually started snow about when I started the brakes... so did that all through the snow... 20191117_141803 by devon M, on Flickr 20191117_143535 by devon M, on Flickr Need to get these brakes sorted... and then I can get it to get aligned and then exhaust work done...
  22. Gotta keep this in mind for my 620.... thanks for the info! Use this is I want to do a front brake upgrade.
  23. Yea that's what I am using. When I got the wheels they had some inner clamp on wheel weights. I mentioned it as it is something you need to specify to the tech mounting and balancing your tires.
  24. demo243

    BadPenny LIVES!!!

    As ]2eDeYe said... This truck is RAD!!! Looking forward to seeing more of it!
  25. Alot will depend on the tire... I am running Rota RBs 15x7 +25 on the front with some Falken Azenis 205/50r15 (known to measure wide) and I needed a 10mm spacer to happily clear the 510 strut on my '71 510 --- so essentially making it a +15 wheel --- also had to roll the fenders a little bit. If you went with a 195 tire you would probably be ok in both the fender and strut clearance. Out back running the same set up and the +25 puts the inside edge of the wheel very close to the a-arm - can't run a clip on wheel weight on the inside, had to roll the rear fenders a bit as well which is tough on a 4 door with the seam... might be easier on a 2 door.
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