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Everything posted by demo243

  1. I am pretty happy with Speedhut gauges. Install was easy. Only issue I am having with them is the remote button to set the fuel gauge isnt working.... The biggest reason I went with them was the ability to choose my colors and that all the gauges would match. Here is my Speedhut Setup. Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr
  2. demo243

    Just bought a 521

    Didnt get a chance to meet you- but got a few photos of the truck. DSC_0758 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0754 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0885 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr
  3. Heres the full album Larz Anderson Japanese Day
  4. Never started a thread for this... But saw a ton a Datsuns there, and recognized a few- DSC_0737 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0740 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0744 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0758 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0772 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0782 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0788 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0800 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0815 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Stuck as fuck.... always laugh at this stuff... but give em props for driving a car so low static... DSC_0826 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0862 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0868 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0885 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0892 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr
  5. Glad I bumped into you! Gotta share some photos of the truck. Looks good! DSC_0734 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0740 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0849 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0853 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr DSC_0855 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr
  6. Its doable (my 510 is proof) your best off with the rwd KA24DE from either the 240sx or the frontier. I dont know anyone who has converted a FWD KA to a RWD setup. I recall reading a few threads about it but nobody ever did the FWD to RWD conversion. As Datzenmike said there are 3 main issues converting a KA to carbs. 1) Timing - The truck KAs are very similar to the L series engines and I believe you can just use a L series distributor (but youll need to do some more research to confirm that...) The 240sx KAs the distributor runs of the cams and wont work. Some people have hacked together an L series distributor to make it work... but your best bet at that point is to go with a crank triggered ignition such as megajolt, gives you much more ability to tune it and will be rock steady. 2) Carb manifold - they are out there, but not easy to find. Ive got two, one from Ed Pink which is supposedly the Nissan Motorsports one, and a second cast one from EWL (Edwin.... something... saw him on the facebook ratsun group a while back). I liked the look of the cast one and used that. both of those are for sidedrafts (Mikuni or Weber). So you'll need to track one of those down or make your own. You can buy flanges for both the KA side and the sidedraft side of the manifold and then will just need to connect the two. 3) Fuel - not a big deal, just run a carter low pressure fuel pump, toss a regulator on it to be safe and to dial in the pressure. You may or may not need to run an electric fan, but might as well for ease of use. There is a 620 floating around that was using a downdraft carb on a KA, was all over instagram not sure if he is on here- I think it was farmerjoe? Here is a link to my KA build -Starts about half way down this page https://ratsun.net/topic/46032-red-71-4dr-carbed-ka24de/?page=20 The short answer is though, I would avoid using the FWD KA or start doing some research.
  7. Ill keep an eye out for you. Planning on running down to the show tomorrow. Probably shoot to be there around 11. Unfortunately I wont have the 510 with me. Just didnt have the time to run down and get it... and didnt want to just park it out in the open in Everett....
  8. T3 might be able to machine you a custom set? They seem to have the ability to do a fair amount of custom work.
  9. The guy definitely didn't know what he was looking at... but he did comment on how much work I must have done in the engine bay. This was in the bay area at the Daly City DMV if it makes a difference.
  10. I think its been mentioned already... but Ill just throw it in here for reference. I registered my 71 510 with a carb'ed KA swap in Cali about a year ago (prior it was registered in CT). Being older then 75 there was no smog check. All I had to do was drive it to the DMV for them to verify the VIN. No questions about the swap at all... although technically the swap was not Cali legal as I removed all the smog equipment from the KA to run carbs on it. If someone really wanted to be a dick they could have sent me to a STAR facility where it would have failed inspection.... but the DMV people did not care.
  11. 1100 lbs in the stock location is about the same as a 275lb spring on coilivers (someone has a rough conversion somewhere on ratsun) due to the leverage the rear arm has over the stock spring being that it is inboard from the axle shaft. When you go coilovers you move the spring all the way out to the end so the wheel/arm loose that leverage and it becomes more of a 1:1 ratio. I'm running 300 front springs on my coiliver and cut in half 650 eibach spring making it 1300lbs per side in the stock locations I also have a big sway bar front and a rear sway... need to measure that one though. On smooth pavement the car is on rails and there is hardly any roll... however when it gets rough it does "skip" a bit... and I think I need to replace my shocks as they are not valves for such heavy spring rates. The car also doesn't like the rain... gets very twitchy when its wet.... but old falken tires probably don't help that
  12. I think were both pretty tied up the next few weekends... but yea we should definitely get together. Always happy to lend a hand wrenching too if you need it.
  13. Its been a while, since I bought a speedo cable, but last I did I just got it from NAPA for a pretty reasonable price.
  14. Planning on making that one! My car is still down in CT at the moment since I dont have a garage to keep in here yet... but the plan is to bring it up for that weekend. Also been working with @B^2 to get his 510 up and running. Side note for you two-- on MA inspections have either of you gone through since the new cameras? I need to get the car up here so I can have someone look at it and tell me what wont pass... worried about the small holes at the corner of the trunk... and other random holes since the interior is gutted.
  15. Subb'ed hoping to bump into this truck at some point now that I'm in MA.
  16. Yea mines similar. 4th is the worst. 5 is loud, 3 is higher in the RPMs. Hate to change the flywheel though... one its a pain... but with the aluminum driveshaft and the lightweight flywheel the engine revs QUICK
  17. My B&M is pretty notchy... and doesn't like 5th much. 1-4 are smooth ish... but 5th will grind unless I go slow. Doesnt always like to go into reverse either. Also for reference I am running Redline MT-90 in the trans and Royal purple in the rear diff (4.11 LSD) I'm running halfshafts and some old rubber rear diff bushings.... and it sounds like mine is just as loud as yours so Im not sure half shafts will help at all. I was running the energy suspension poly trans mount, but threw in a GM rubber mount with hardly a difference. Still running poly McKinney motor mounts though. I think @Duke is on to it with the harmonics issue... probably not helped by the partially counterbalanced crankshaft. I wonder if an upgraded damper would do anything? ATI ?? drop some cash? But yea to Dukes point... I think there are some harmonics going on that are then amplified by the lightweight flywheel, aftermarket clutch, big aluminum drive shaft and tin can of a car...
  18. Rockcrusher! that is the best way I've heard to describe the noise... drives me crazy. Interested to see how the changes affect it. Are you running a stock shifter or short shift? I was reading on some of the 240sx forums that the B&M shifter I have can cause some more noise too... don't have a stock shifter to try though...
  19. I'm not the only one!!!! My supposedly rebuilt trans in my KA swap is really loud on decel in 4th and 5th... and even 3rd above 3k. Running a Fidenza light weight flywheel, spec stage 1? clutch (id have to go back and check what I bought hahaha) and a 3" aluminum drive shaft. I dont think its quite as loud outside of the car... but inside the car with no interior and poly mounts its loud as shit! Been keeping my eye out for another trans to swap in and see if it helps... but sounds like it may not make a difference. Although I still need to go in and check the pinion angles to see if that helps at all.
  20. If your looking to run a distributorless ignition definitely look into megajolt, it uses a Ford Edis system which is fairly easy to source. It's pretty easy to set up. Both Duke and I are running it on our carb'ed DEs.
  21. Cast "production" intake - EWL - hard to find. I got lucky and found it second hand... but I stumbled upon the guy who makes them/ imports them on the Ratsun facebook a little while back. I think his name was Eddie La Puebla i think?? Ed Pink made the ones for Nissan Motorsports NA - that one is a welded manifold. I've got one of those stashed away as well, but I liked the look and quality of the cast one better.
  22. Running Megajolt - got a set of Mikuni 44's bolted to the side of the KA, so Megajolt takes care of the ignition. 20180413_172943 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr
  23. Here's some inspiration for you --- this is the pan I had made for my KA - Ray at Garage Autohero welded it up for me --- not sure how the CA bottom end compares to the KA. The other thread to check out is Dukes thread - he did a rear sump pan on his KA and is now running a steering rack as well. Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr IMG_0663 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr
  24. Also added benefit to a rear sump pan is protection from impact as the crossmember is still in front of the pan. I went custom rear sump pan for my KA swap. When I did the math on getting the crossmember cut and rewelded or buying someones already flipped crossmember and then having to get a new sway bar it pretty much evened out.
  25. Only the 2nd page this time... not too bad - Finally got some time to work on the dime. Went down to CT for a few days to take care of some issues. Pulled the engine the reseal the oil pan--- hoping it holds this time... 20180503_152105 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Tried to use the "stock" 2?0z trans mount.. but it dropped the trans too far and in turn angled the engine too far back so it hit the firewall... oh well back to the poly mount... Got a new TPS sensor and adapter for throttle shaft--- and it works! Which allowed me to finally update to a real ignition map. Ill have to screenshot a photo of it later, but its basically a tweaked version of Dukes map adjusted for a TPS sensor instead of MAP. Could probably use some fine tuning, but it works for now and the car runs much better then the flat 15 degree map I was running before. 20180505_171845 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr For anyone interested, and hopefully this helps someone else since I had a hell of a time trying to figure it out... Kinsler Fuel Injection sells these TPS sensors, and this adapter for a 3/8" throttle shaft (such as the one available from pierce manifolds) I used the clockwise rotation sensor for my application. Screen Shot 2018-05-05 at 10.55.52 PM by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Some engine shots... it just looks too good!!! 20180413_172927 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr 20180413_172945 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Also worked out a few other electrical kinks - added a second fuse panel. Got the reverse lights working. Got the AFR wideband gauge working. And finally got my speedo working!!! Ended up being a bent pin in the vss sensor, carefully bent it back and it works. All my gauges work now!!!! So since everything was working I took it out for a spin --- 20180505_200811 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr 20180505_200833 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr
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