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demo243

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Everything posted by demo243

  1. Garage is about 90% there --- still some clean up to do, and Ill probably add a few more shelves... but with rain in the forecast tomorrow I stuffed the truck in there! Enough room to get between them, and just enough room to access the tools and keep the bench usable. And if I really need access to the drill press while the truck is in there... I guess I could just work from the truck bed hahaha
  2. Depends on how low you go— but I’d probably advise against it. Both cause the wheel is low and cause the tailgate isn’t very tall. My wheel would definitely hit... these leafs are pretty soft I’m dropped on 3” blocks in the rear. That’s a Large 27.5+ bike with a 130mm fork and a big 3.0 tire up front. Ive never been a fan of carrying bikes over the tailgate either way... to much chance for it to get dinged up- and seen too many dented down tubes even with pads... just not a great way to carry bikes, but to each there own
  3. Here’s one of threads about using the spacer https://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=29668&start=45 Bump back a page for some more info on fitment--- its for an SR but should be very similar to the KA as I had the same issues with the KA, I believe their end mount points are the same. https://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&p=268172
  4. Most people seem to use the stock L series engine mounts in the lower holes, but they bind a bit... I had trouble with that and ultimately couldn't use them. I went with McKinney mounts, but wasn't super impressed with them, and I dont know if they are even operational any more... There is a post on the 510Realm about using 1/2" spacers between the block and the iron mounts to align the iron mounts with the stock L series isolators--- I'll see about digging it up... but it looked good and I have been planning on trying that at some point. Side note - I also had my iron mounts off the block tweaked to set the engine back another ~1" in the engine bay. Puts it very close to the firewall... but should help with the weight dist. Needs more LOW! But definitely missing alot of weight so who knows where it will end up Looking good!
  5. Oh hot damn! Thats my favorite color... and somewhat local... Patina is killer... but I suspect it holds some "hidden treasures". Gotta watch this one, no way my wife would let me get another one... but maybe.. Im sure it will go too high being on ebay...
  6. Posted this in the 510 thread... but applicable here too... So not much to update on the datto front... but making some big progress on the garage! So I have posted a few photos before... but essentially this is what I started with--- there used to be parts under the bench on the right and a bakers rack with parts behind the car too--- but those have been moved to the basement of the house for now... probably forever. Anyway, it was very functional, with a killer size work bench, but the whole place was filthy... probably 100 years or dirt... and felt really small with the 510 in there. Then I got the 620 and the poor thing was stuck outside in the snow all winter and I would rather not do that again. Plan was to tear it down and build a bigger one... but with Covid, pulling permits, demo costs, the kid on the way, and all new windows in the house; well the garage got back burnered.... So time to do what I can to make it functional for now --- anyway again here is where I started... I got to work and tore everything out--- Then got to work painting the inside white to help reflect light and fell cleaner Painted-- had to move everything back in to close it up... You can tell there was a ton of old dust as it bleed through the paint even after shop vac'ing every wall. Shuffled things around and stuffed the 510 back in the corner. Test fit again to fit both the 510 and the truck in there--- Its TIGHT... but doable... mostly to get the truck out of the rain and snow... but also to open up the garage... The MOST IMPORTANT UPDATE! The Datsun Racing Banner! Then I got to work building a bench in the back left corner--- had to run some new power to move the outlet, and got some additional lights, but that was easy... Its the smallest bench I have had in a while... but not too bad... As I left it off for the night--- Up next is to add some more shelves--- a bunch of 6-12" shelves up high --- a big 20-24" shelf above the trunk of the 510 and maybe another above the car itself. Then planning on adding a ~20" shelf/bench on the left side above the 620 bed for the drill press and grinding wheel, usable when the truck isnt in there, but able to get the truck bed underneath it... More to come!
  7. So not much to update on the datto front... but making some big progress on the garage! So I have posted a few photos before... but essentially this is what I started with--- there used to be parts under the bench on the right and a bakers rack with parts behind the car too--- but those have been moved to the basement of the house for now... probably forever. Anyway, it was very functional, with a killer size work bench, but the whole place was filthy... probably 100 years or dirt... and felt really small with the 510 in there. Then I got the 620 and the poor thing was stuck outside in the snow all winter and I would rather not do that again. Plan was to tear it down and build a bigger one... but with Covid, pulling permits, demo costs, the kid on the way, and all new windows in the house; well the garage got back burnered.... So time to do what I can to make it functional for now --- anyway again here is where I started... I got to work and tore everything out--- Then got to work painting the inside white to help reflect light and fell cleaner Painted-- had to move everything back in to close it up... You can tell there was a ton of old dust as it bleed through the paint even after shop vac'ing every wall. Shuffled things around and stuffed the 510 back in the corner. Test fit again to fit both the 510 and the truck in there--- Its TIGHT... but doable... mostly to get the truck out of the rain and snow... but also to open up the garage... The MOST IMPORTANT UPDATE! The Datsun Racing Banner! Then I got to work building a bench in the back left corner--- had to run some new power to move the outlet, and got some additional lights, but that was easy... Its the smallest bench I have had in a while... but not too bad... As I left it off for the night--- Up next is to add some more shelves--- a bunch of 6-12" shelves up high --- a big 20-24" shelf above the trunk of the 510 and maybe another above the car itself. Then planning on adding a ~20" shelf/bench on the left side above the 620 bed for the drill press and grinding wheel, usable when the truck isnt in there, but able to get the truck bed underneath it... More to come!
  8. Those pieces are so brittle... been meaning to try and make something to cover the column on the 620...
  9. So many toggles ! Hahah The metal ones do make a difference though! ive got a couple in the 620 that light up red when toggled on for the yellow fogs and fan over ride.
  10. Not much to update. Yet... Reworking the garage setup so I tore out the existing work bench and a few other things—seems big now with just the 510 in there. The plan is too clean out this old garage and at least paint the inside to make it a bit more friendly... And then it’s going to get crowded this winter— Its a tight fit... but they make it in there! Probably not for everyday parking... but at least able to get the 620 in the garage for the winter or those rainy spring weeks.
  11. Not much to update- just driving it around... Big truck - Little truck Quick Home Depot run Dat-Ass Oh - I guess some exciting news— The has a garage spot for the winter! Requires totally reworking my garage set up... but it fits in there!
  12. demo243

    StreetFighter 620

    Was tough to get any good photos... Here is what I am running- Block off plate and the hose coming off the back goes back to the “L” port at the back of the block Plugged here — would like to clean it up at some point... but it seems to be working
  13. demo243

    StreetFighter 620

    Sorry caught up with house stuff— I’ll try and grab some photos tomorrow
  14. demo243

    StreetFighter 620

    On my 620 I have the same setup as your first picture capped off there. No issue yet with the rubber plug, but I suspect I’ll have the same problem with it as I have on the 510 and will need to upgrade to a nicer silicone one... as for the next two photos—- I made a block off plate for the port that is being pointed to in the 3rd photo. then I took the hose coming off you lower loop in photo 2 and ran it straight back to the fitting at the back of the block as shown in the last photo. Hope that all make sense. ill take a fresh photo tomorrow for you made sure my coolant was topped off and the system bled of air. have not had a problem—- runs a bit warm on the highway ~200-210, but hasn’t gone above that and cools back to 190 once I’m not cruising at 80. Don’t know what rad I have but it’s not small... double pusher fans. In my opinion the thermostat position on the KA is terrible... it requires the heated coolant to back flow to the thermostat to open it or the whole system to heat up... compare that to a L series where the thermostat is after the engine on the outlet where the water pump is constantly pushing the heated coolant toward it- as soon as the coolant in the engine is warm it is forced against the thermostat causing it to open— makes more sense to me, so that is why i moves it to the outlet hose on my 510– that engine actually stays too cold... unless I’m really pushing it.
  15. yea need a short one for the truck too—- these cabs are small hahahh
  16. Got a link to that adapter? looks nicer then the cheapo I used on the 620...
  17. demo243

    StreetFighter 620

    post a photo of what you have blocked off coolant wise— I deleted the heater on both my 510 and 620 I blocked off the port off the back of the thermostat housing on the KA in my 510 and it caused big issues! That’s where the coolant is supposed to circle back and activate the thermostat- when blocked it doesn’t work... I ended up moving the t-stat to and in-line housing on the coolant hose from the engine exit to the rad. On the KA in the 620 I connected that same port on the back of the t-stat to the the port on the rear of the block on the passenger side and it seems to be working... although it definitely runs warmer on the highway then the 510 does... but the 510 has a huge radiator... so idk... downside of plugging that port off the t-stat housing is finding a good plug... I’m on my 3rd rubber one in 2-3 years... basically a yearly maintenance item... they all just crack... just picked up a nice silicone one I am going to try. i can get some photos tomorrow if it helps.
  18. Do you really want a 17” wheel on a 510? What engine and rear diff are you running? That’s a tall tire for autocross— most people go shorter for quicker acceleration.
  19. Tire dependent too - Im running a 15x7 +25 with a 10mm spacer and 205/50r15s. The clamp I am using to hold up the threaded sleeve, and the sleeve clear fine, but im going to have to bump all the way to a 6" spring to get enough clearance for the spring perch. Going to run some helper springs to keep everything tensioned moving forward on droop.
  20. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/510/front-weld-coilover-kit-datsun-510 Requires a "core" in that you still have the stock 510 struts or you have a set of 280zx --- but all the work is done by you.
  21. Nothing wrong with an R160 behind a KA as long as you dont plan on doing burnouts all the time. The issue with the Subi diffs fitting through the cross member is due to the round driveshaft flange - swap it to the rectangular one from your diff and its all good. 3.54 is going to be really slow, even behind a KA. I run a 4.11 mostly and have a 4.44 in it right now. 4.11 has been my favorite ratio to date - quick enough for fun acceleration, but not rev'ed to high at 80 on the highway. If you can find one --- find one of the early 80's Subaru clutch pack LSDs (CLSD) --- most of them were 3.7s, but you can pull the clutch pack center unit and drop it into any other r160 (even the newer ones, which opens up easier to find gearing options --- ie my 4.44 came from a 2000's forester, but then I used the older center unit in it to adapt it back to the datsun stub axles.
  22. Hot Damn! That is one awesome Z - Nice Work!! Glad you kept the swap in the family, and it is amazing how much space there is left in that engine bay. The car must handle great with the engine so far back in the car, should be nicely balanced. Look forward to seeing where that 620 goes!
  23. I think your over thinking this. If you have working 510 struts it can be easily done, especially since you said you have buddies that can help with the cutting and welding. The process of cutting and welding your 510 struts can be done in probably an hour. Slap on a T3 coilover conversion kit for $265, add their camber plates for $265 and your good to go. Can be done in an afternoon. If you want more stopping power add their Micro Big Brake kits for $895, maybe bump to a 7/8ths master from a 240/260/280z (good for rear drums) or a 15/16ths from a 280zx (good for rear disc conversions) for another $50-100 bucks and you've now got good brakes. All for ~ $1500. Edit.... youll probably want some new inserts in those struts too... so add some Koni sports for $300. So $1800... or Save $200 and use some KYBS... $1600 If want true bolt in without hunting for parts then you have to spend some coin... anything aftermarket from T3, DP, Troy Ermish, etc is going to cost more then what is on the car or what can maybe be found at a junkyard. The advantage of finding 280zx struts is they come with a bigger brake/vented rotor--- as long as the set you get has good calipers that don't need to be replaced or rebuilt--- Also I don't believe they need to be cut down. Something else to think about with the possible swap to 280zx stuff is will your wheels fit? 510 struts like wheels with some offset ~ +15 --- 280zx stuff likes wheels with a 0 offset. If you have a set of wheels you like on your 510 struts, they may not work on 280zx stuff.
  24. If you are looking to buy a prebuilt set without a core this is going to be your best option https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/510/evolved-front-coilover-conversion-datsun-510-using-280zx-spindles If you don't have hubs then you'll need their hubs too https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/510/4-lug-and-5-lug-billet-280zx-front-hubs Pair that with their camber plates and you are good to go.... but $$$$ T3's micro big brake kit looks pretty nice as well - depending on what size wheels you are looking to run. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/510/micro-big-brake-kit-510-using-280zx-struts DP racing does some nice wilwood kits as well. You'll definitely want to bump the master up to a bigger unit if you run any wilwood calipers, they just need the volume - and if running rear disc the 280zx 15/16ths unit would be the way to go - as mike said it will be stiff, so if you don't like that definitely look into a booster. Nothing wrong with 510 struts either --- the T3 kit is really easy to install, and if you cant weld Im sure you could find a shop to do the cutting and welding of the strut tube for a pretty reasonable price, then you can use T3s coilover conversion kit and save a bunch of $$$. People talk about the issue of the small bearings but their are plenty of race cars still running stock 510 struts/spindles, and unless you really drive nasty roads or are top level racing the likely hood of bending a spindle or actually wearing out a new bearing is probably pretty slim.
  25. Swapped the old wire/plug in and it charges fine immediately... back to having the draw... but that’s ok for now with this car... It spends more time parked in the garage so I’ll pop the breaker to isolate the battery... I’ll mess around again later at some point
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