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demo243

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Everything posted by demo243

  1. Well maybe it's not the simplest but it is tried and true
  2. I think your over thinking this... to each their own... but the simplest way to improve your headlights is to upgrade to H4 bulbs with a modern relay set up. You can pick up a hella h4 conversion housing and bulbs for about $70 on amazon and add in a few bucks for a relay set up, run a couple new wires and your good to go. This is what I just put in my 620-- HELLA 002850811 135mm H4 High/Low Beam Halogen Conversion Headlamp Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G7A9YS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_471YDbFQJM96G I swapped the inner bulbs for some sealed yellow bulbs on a stand alone switch
  3. been meaning to do it on the 510... and now Ill have to do it here.
  4. Ends up I have a parasitic draw on the truck as well... went out to unplug the hazard switch and see how the signals worked... but unfortunately the battery was dead... Short term solution will be to install a circuit breaker on the positive battery cable - same as I have on the 510 - so that I can disconnect the battery. Was planning on doing this anyway since I like being able to disconnect the battery when its not being driven for a while... although I guess this messes with the ECU and potentially the speedo/odometer... hmm just thought of that... We'll see...
  5. Just making some notes and thoughts.... I think my Idle/Start issue may be related to the IACV - saw a thread over on the realm mentioning that IACV issues can be over come by "cracking the throttle old school style" which is exactly what I have done. For my turn signal issues... I wonder if power is back feeding through the hazard switch and activating both sides instead of just one. If I remember correctly I think I tied the turn signal out put and the hazard out put for each side together and then connected them to the frame harness that runs back.
  6. More Progress!!! Got the dash in an hooked up! Could have left a couple leads a little bit longer.... unfortunately... but made it work, was just a little trickier to hook everything up then I hoped. Happy with the result though! Still need to bolt it in tight, but have a few more things to work on and figured there was a good chance I might have to take it off again so I left it loose. 20191110_162517 by devon M, on Flickr 20191110_162510 by devon M, on Flickr Also hooked up the O2 sensor and the last little bits on the CanAm box. Had to make a few adjustments on where things connected, but figured it out. I never did run a direct ground from the ECU to the chasis?1?!? not sure if this is needed... but didn't want to cut anything else. Then cranked for oil pressure... and tried to fire it! .... but ran into trouble.... You could hear it fire, but it wouldnt run and then I would have to let it sit for a few minutes before I could try again.... Click the image for link to video 20191110_150318_1 by devon M, on Flickr Figured out the Key Pwer on the CanAm board was getting power under cranking... but not under ignition. Spliced it into the ignition tab on the ignition switch and that solved that... but still couldnt get it to run... Then I gave it some gas on starting... and it went!!!! but still wouldn't hold idle... had to keep giving it gas to keep it alive... Click the image for link to video 20191110_151245_1 by devon M, on Flickr Ended up adjusting the pedal stop to set the idle... I dont think this is correct... but it worked for now... .It looks like there might be an adjustable screw on the throttle pulley at the intake that I can mess with so I think I am going to try that.... but for now it RUNS! Click the image for link to video 20191110_151728_1 by devon M, on Flickr Still got a bunch of work to do though... Brakes are still soft... air is getting in somewhere, and I have new discs and pads to install up front. My turn signals aren't wired up correct... they work fine in the front, but the way I connected them to the hazard/brakes lights didnt work... either turn signal activates both sides- hazards work fine - and when you step on the brakes it cancels the turn signal... which is backwards, it should cancel the brake light to that particular side and let the signal override it. I tried to hook the tach up to the ECU output... but it didnt work.. I had heard that this is a problem on the KAs so I just need to hook it up to the coil - Also need to check the reverse switch... I out a new one in... but maybe didnt wire it right since the reverse lights arent working... lastly I need to deal with the thermostat... didnt seem to want to open... same issue I had on the 510 swap too when I pulled the heated core... ultimately i still blame this on poor placement by nissan... being the the thermostat is before the engine so the heat needs to back track to the thermostat to open it... if it is moved to the upper rad hose the water pump forces the hot coolant toward the thermostat so it is more likely to consistently and accurately open... I dont really want to put an inline thermostat in... cause draining this radiator is going to be a pain in the ass... but I think it will ultimately be the right call.... we'll see... Next up is get an alignment and then I need to get it registered so I can drive it to the exhaust shop and get the exhaust work done.... Need to get the lights figured out if there is any hope of registering it in Mass... but in order to register it in CT I need to drive it to a shop there to get the vin verified... bugger...
  7. Bumped to the second page... been kinda busy so sneaking work in when I can... winter is nearly upon us here in the northeast... which is a huge bummer... hoping to get it running soon do I can drive it a bit before the salt flies Anyway... Re did the rear brakes. Brake pedal is still a bit soft though... hoping the master isn't bad... Also took this shot - guess I'll ne trimming these bump stops... Fabbed up some quick crude mounts for the ECU... not pretty but they will work Added a fan override switch and a real fancy sound system Then got to work on the CanAm board- got it mostly wired- al though still a few questions... Does the ecu bup need a separate inline fuse? Or is that built into the board? Since I don't have the stock 620 fuse panel... I cant use the old coil wire... based on the 510 diagram it looks like the black and white went to both the coil and the resistor tab on the ignition switch so I ran the key power wire to that tab... Still need to ground the ECU.. and hope the rest of the wires are correct... harness wasnt in the best shape and had been previously cut near the blue connector... tried to chase a few wires down and it looks like they spliced in later in the harness... so I used the ones that were already cut... I have these three spare connectors... that I have traced back to see what they do yet I also still need to figure out how to wire the o2 sensor in since I cant seem to find that pigtail... picked up a one wire sensor... but not sure if I need a 3 wire sensor... Also have this plug open in the engine bay... should something be plugged into this? Besides those questions I think the truck is pretty much wired up! Almost time to drop the battery in and test it all.... well gotta put the dash in first. Might have to make another kick panel to cover all this... Then fill it with oil and coolant ... crank it for oil pressure... and hope it fires!
  8. I run yellow fogs on the 510 and will on the 620. I use em as daytime running lights... amazing how many people dont see a red car
  9. demo243

    KA with sidedrafts

    Guess I never posted these--- Here is what I am running in my Mikuni 44s on my KA24DE - obviously a different set up on different carbs, but could be a good reference point. My KA is bored out with forged internals but at a stock 9-9.5 compression. I got these specs from Duke who is running basically the same set up on his KA24DE 44 Mikuni Jetting - KA24DE 37mm Venturi 160 Main Fuel 250 Air 57.5 Pilot 40 Pump
  10. demo243

    KA with sidedrafts

    👍 I was clicking through one of your links and they were all referring to 40's so I got a little nervous you might be undercarbed... but 45s should be fine. Im running 44s on my twin cam KA.
  11. demo243

    KA with sidedrafts

    Been following this kinda on an off for a while... and I'm sure you mention it somewhere - but what size carbs are you running? 40s or 45s ?
  12. Been working a bunch on the truck. Didn't get to do much last weekend, but hustled this weekend. Got all the "truck" wiring done- 20191020_185128 by devon M, on Flickr 20191020_185135 by devon M, on Flickr Still need to wire up the can-am box and make sure the engine harness is properly connected. This is what your bench should look like when rewiring a Datsun ..... datsun wiring diagram.... universal diagram... individual install instructions (gauges,etc...) ... and in my case KA can am box diagram.... 20191020_214810 by devon M, on Flickr 20191020_214804 by devon M, on Flickr But not all is well..... Pushed the truck back into the garage tonight and noticed a wet spot on the drive way..... 20191020_185158 by devon M, on Flickr .... turns out something gave way in the driver rear brake.... I suspect it is the wheel cylinder.... hoping I can fix it easily. As much as I want to do full disc brakes on the truck it is money I didnt want to spend yet... proof it is the rear brake leaking... 20191020_185215 by devon M, on Flickr Dat.. Ass... with one side on a jack stand hahahaha 20191020_214903 by devon M, on Flickr Getting there---- engine bay 20191020_214842 by devon M, on Flickr How it sits in the garage for now... Its been kinda nice being able to store stuff in the bed... but also is anoying cause I need to put the truck in the garage every night and the 510 ends up outside in driveway under a cover.... that should change soon
  13. demo243

    Just bought a 521

    Ive got an odyssey PC-680 in the 510 behind the passenger seat and it has no problem cranking and starting the KA. Will be running the same thing in the 620. Previous owner mounted one behind the the bench seat up against the back wall of the cab.
  14. This is inline with what I was reading. I know one of the issues with Dynos is that even with fans, there isnt much air flow through the radiator like being out on the highway so I think that is part of why they want to keep the pulls shorter. Also they may have realized how you drive your truck/what you use it for and felt that a quicker 3rd gear pull better reflected how you drive it and the actual loads your engine receives. Im not sure what the shop would have to gain by inflating his numbers... he wasn't paying them to tune it, just for them to drive it and report on the numbers his engine was making... also not sure I have ever held my 510 at full throttle for 12 seconds- in a 4-5 speed if you held it for that long you would be bouncing off the limiter if you have one... otherwise you would need to shift. I dont think I've even ever held my tacoma (auto) at full throttle that long... well barely 0-60 in the truck is ~7.7 so if we assume 0-75 we are probably close to 10.
  15. Was great meeting up and cruising in! good call on getting there early as we got prime spots! Sorry though as I didnt really take any pictures...... 20191006_105550 by devon M, on Flickr 20191006_105936 by devon M, on Flickr 20191006_114426(0) by devon M, on Flickr' 20191006_104346 by devon M, on Flickr
  16. Decided to go red for Aux gauges--- the speed and tach will still be white, but I think the red will help tone it down. 20191003_183354 by devon M, on Flickr Also picked up a new steering wheel for it once its running 20191003_183746 by devon M, on Flickr 20191003_190156 by devon M, on Flickr Since I decided to rewire it, figured I would upgrade the headlights too--- H4 upgrade for the outer lights, and ambers for the inners. going to wire the ambers on a separate switch to run as fogs. Highs and lows will be on the outer lights. 20191005_140513 by devon M, on Flickr 20191006_181123 by devon M, on Flickr If you look closely you'll see I through some Hella Supertones in there as well.... these cars/trucks are small... so if someone is messing up while driving I want them to know! 20191006_181128 by devon M, on Flickr I was then gonna start working on the wiring... but got side tracked by the nasty "insulation" that was put on the floor.... So I ripped it out.... and bugger these floors are rough..... haven't looked at the back half yet. Driverside- 20191006_164851 by devon M, on Flickr Pass side 20191006_164903 by devon M, on Flickr Then I took the leap! No turning back now. 20191006_172614 by devon M, on Flickr Pulled the wiring harness... and it feels great! While there might not be anything "wrong" with it... although there is... this stuff is so old... and will be much cleaner once redone. 20191006_181142 by devon M, on Flickr Engine compartment cleaned out --- only thing left is the KA engine harness and a few sensor wires 20191006_181114 by devon M, on Flickr Here is the plan for the new fuse box and can am board. ECU will I think be on the firewall. 20191006_185800 by devon M, on Flickr 20191006_181850 by devon M, on Flickr
  17. I dont know about the different tanks... but if the factory electric pump is external then I doubt the tanks are different. Should be a pretty easy swap for you. Remove the mechanical pump and make a block off plate to cover that hole. There are some for sale somewhere for l series engines... but easy enough to make one out of plate or thin bar stock aluminum. Then you just need to install a low pressure fuel pump somewhere in line. There is likely a soft line connecting the tank to the hard fuel line, that's an easy spot to sneak one in. In my 510 i put the pump in the trunk. On my 620 its mounted to the frame rail. Running carbs it cant hurt to put a regulator in there to, and Webers and mikunis can be pretty picky about fuel pressure. A pretty commonly used low pressure pump is available from Carter, then I think I'm running a Holey regulator to dial it in on my 510 with carbs.
  18. So came across something very interesting... the truck in the photo above... IS MY TRUCK! - I was looking at the photo going.... those mirrors are the same, that bumper is the same, those wheels are the same, it looks like the maroon seat is the same... Then I found a copy of the old for sale ad and sure enough there was a VIN posted and it is the same. Looks like it was down in Texas at some point, and the paint looked to be in much better shape, and looks to have had a good clean L series engine in it. Its actually pretty sad... The bed and tail gate are so beat up now... and at somepoint some started to paint it teal... Anyway here are some more photos from the add. 1978-datsun-620-regular-cab-shortbed-texas-truck-rebuilt-motor-new-clutch-7 by devon M, on Flickr 1978-datsun-620-regular-cab-shortbed-texas-truck-rebuilt-motor-new-clutch-8 by devon M, on Flickr 1978-datsun-620-regular-cab-shortbed-texas-truck-rebuilt-motor-new-clutch-2 by devon M, on Flickr 1978-datsun-620-regular-cab-shortbed-texas-truck-rebuilt-motor-new-clutch-5 by devon M, on Flickr Still trying to find a date of the for sale ad....
  19. It would depend on your final ratios... but I did a quick search... bored at work.... sounds like 3rd gear is not uncommon, and is a little easier on the engine, especially at the lower RPMs.
  20. Sounds good to me! Now hopefully I can steal enough time tomorrow to give the car a quick wash
  21. The other big question is... white or red for the auxiliary gauges.... I don't think I can change the speedo and tach since they appear to be sealed units.... but all the other gauges use a replaceable bulb, which come stock with white LEDs. I was a bit worried about the whites being to bright so I grabbed a spare red bulb I had lying around and threw it in one of the gauges.... hmmm.... Sorry for the crappy photos... phone wouldnt take a good one in the semi dark garage. 20191001_175413 by devon M, on Flickr 20191001_175417 by devon M, on Flickr
  22. Its kind of an all or nothing deal for me.... I don't want to keep chasing down issues or have to hack things back together. There are already some missing wires... and a lot of the connectors are literally falling apart... I know its not the "purist" way of doing it... but I already did away with the stock dash so it goes along with the plan of updating things... ___________________ Been doing some digging and the only major issue I forsee if the tail/stop/direction lights... I want to get rid of the stock 620 light switch and use the American Autowire one connected to a relay set up for the head lights --- similar to how I wired up my 510 (I'll dig up that diagram later) --- the rears might be a bit tougher though as the turn signals use the same wiring? I plan to keep the stock 620 stalk for high beams and turn signals--- although I will be looking for a replacement there too since mine is pretty beat up... I guess to simplify things I could split the tailights up... but that wouldn't be ideal... I do plan on running a 3rd brake light up in the window inside the cab, but it sounds like it will be easier to tap into the brake switch at the pedal for that... Hmmm gotta do some more digging.
  23. Well Screw It! I'm ripping out all the wiring and redoing it. I replaced the burnt out fuse I had issues with and charged the battery up. Went out and messed around with it a little bit last night and still having issues with the dash lights, and now I have no tail lights... indicators work though... Could I fix it? Sure its probably only a few wires away from being ok... but its still old wiring and its still messy.... and I am hoping for this truck to be a turn key driver. Fresh wiring is definitely a good step toward that. I did the re-wire in the 510 and while it was a pain I feel like it did clean up a lot of things... and I really like the modern fuse box and the ability to relocate it. I went ahead an ordered the same American Autowire Highway 15 kit I used last time on the 510. It isn't the cheapest kit, but definitely one of the cleaner ones, and even though I won't use most the switches, I will use the headlight switch, and some of their connectors. Its a bit of an extra cost that I wasn't planning on putting into this truck... and will offset some of the other plans further down the road as well... but I think it will be worth it. I think I am going to mount the fuse panel, along with the Can AM box on the passenger side kick panel. I picked up the T3 ones and that should be a nice mounting point. ---- On another note... tired of climbing around the old ratty Datsun steering wheel so I ordered a 14" wood with black chrome one and a Boss adapter with Nissan horn button. I was looking for a Datsun one... but the extra time and cost wasn't worth it... Nissan is close enough.
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