Anonymous Waffle

Been a bit since I've updated. Some of the prep was for powerland. Put in a 510 aluminum radiator. Picked up a pair of 720 4x4 springs from pick n pull. Made my own air stacks, using a backing plate of a 411 sss filter, and used a press and trailer hitch ball to create a cone. Not perfect, probably not practical, but it works. Due to being lowered four inches, I went ahead and made a carrier bearing spacer, and replaced the carrier bearing rubber with a 1 inch sheet of rubber. Might be temp, might be permanent.

Man that bumper looks like its straight out of mad max. Nice project man

This is an awesome start to a thread! I also live in Sacramento, close to elk grove, and I daily drive my 620 everyday, and use it for work! I've been daily driving for almost 2 1/2 years, and put about 25000 miles on it. I've also done two trips up to Canby Oregon with no issues. If you ever see a orange long bed in sac, its probably me. If you're relatively close to the rancho area, I would recommend looking up Sacramento Datsun Owners club on facebook, and this friday we'll have a meeting at Round table pizza at 2234 Sunrise Blvd. We've got plenty of people who'll have parts and plenty of knowledge! Just as a fyi, I am still running 4 way drums on my truck, and they work okay, if you have them adjusted right. Going to discs in the front are definetly worth it if you have the time and money, but drums are more than doable. In fact, I changed out all of my brake cylinders and brake master, and drove with 30+ year old brake shoes.. I was short on money, so I rocked them for a short period of time, I wouldn't recommend it though. If you ever need help, just message me on here, I have a surprising amount of free time so I don't mind a little drive to help out!

Hey thanks! I'm 5'8 or a 172 cm, so I sit rather comfortably in my truck. My bench is pushed up pretty far, but I think my 'new' bench is broken, as the tilt of the back support doesn't hold a spot, it just leans all the way back. I'll need to fix it when I pull it to fix the seams and cushioning. The Z seats I had made it nice to drive when I pushed it hard around corners in the mountains, but its not very comfortable for long trip drives. The bench is definetly the way to go. If you have trouble finding benches, there should be a couple of threads about people talking about bench swaps, like bronco rear seats and d21 seats, etc etc. From the pictures I've seen, you have a very clean truck there!

Well updates! Been a while since I picked up a new project, not a datto, but a 1988 Mazda Rx7 Turbo II. Here's a pic for whoever cares, sitting since 2003, got alot of work to do. When we pulled it out of the owner's garage. My 620 started to spring a head gasket leak in the #1 cylinder, causing it to burn coolant, and pressurize the coolant system on the engine side. So off the head went. Oh and did I say this was happening over christmas? It was fun, the motor is definitely a low mileage motor, with no ring ridge, and all cross hatches showing. #1 cylinder plug Pulled the valves and put in new valve seals and did a quick valve job. I believe this head hasn't been shaved from the looks of it. And it wasn't warped and within spec according to the book, so I just cleaned it up and threw it back together.

My l20 has SU's and I daily it just fine. As long as you do your normal maintenance (damper oil, lubricating the linkage, occasional tuning), its a great setup. My setup runs too ruch since I have the incorrect floats to float bowl covers, but i still get 19mpg in the city and 28 highway.

Those dually fenders are exciting! I've always wanted to see a dually short bed. Keep up the awesome work!

Hey guys, last night my original fuse block died. The plastic retaining the head lamp clamp melted right through. It was just due time I presume. So I threw the eBay fuse block on to get it home and I got home no problem, but I noticed that with key off, accessories that are supposed to be hot on ign is hot constantly. (Radio and tachometer) and drained my battery. Who can tell me why this fuse block is wired like this, and if I can just splice it to copy the original fuse block?

I also had a feeling that might have been stock, but I never had anyone else try to check. I'll be checking with one of my local club members later this week, thank you for the information.

Title pretty much says all. If I am holding the brakes, and I pull the hazard, it won't blink, it'll just hold the hazard on. Does anyone know what could cause this? Is it possibly too much power being drawn from the brake lights? Or a bad back end ground? It's not the biggest problem, I can just pull my E brake and my hazards work.

A 2 bolt flange was welded to it. Its a tight fit between the motor and frame but its in. When the header was in your 510, how did you hook it up to your downpipe?

I guess it's due time for a little update? I don't do too much on my truck besides regular maintenance, since i daily drive it and use it for my work. Most of this work that I had done was done just about a week before Canby in preparation for the trip. Went to a fellow club members place who was parting out a 75' long bed from Oregon, and took a few parts, like a lock set, windows, and the battery tray section. Seriously appreciate the parts he gave me. I'm going to be sand blasting and repairing the little bits of rust on the blue section, and taking what is salvageable (Blue 620 front was smashed from p.o.) and grafting it to my truck. In prep for Canby, my battery was just about to fall out of the ghetto repair we did about a year ago, so I went ahead and made another ghetto repair. Some license plates I picked up for buck cheap at some swapmeets, and a bunch of rivets, made for a pretty sturdy tray. Replaced the windshield and windshield gasket, and Canby was the test to see if it leaked or not. Didn't leak :thumbup: :thumbup: My 240z seats I threw in started to get really uncomfortable in long trips. It's really supportive if you're hitting mountain roads pretty hard, but more than a few hours and your back is pretty sore. So I was really lucky to find a local guy that had a black, notched seat in really good condition, with just a few rips here and there. And my favorite part, SU's baby. It took me a long time to get the right weekend to throw these on. The hardest challenge I had was converting the Mechanical linkage to Cable pull linkage, and I was thinking of using a shaved bolt as the linkage bar, but I took a 280zx intake runner linkage bar, cut it to length, drilled holes, tapped and attached a Nissan Altima Bell Crank. The only problem with my setup is the very intense curved angles the throttle cable is doing, due to my SU's "Smog equipment" and balance tube. This piece is a failed piece, because I didn't realize that a small section of the bar has hardened steel, but you get the idea. (Yes the throttle cable bracket is very ugly, I just kinda slotted holes until it worked)

I've had quite a similar problem as well. 76' with stock 4-way drums. Before Canby I tried to rebleed my entire system and that caused me to have incredibly soft brakes and nearly no pressure. After multiple tries in fixing it, I went ahead and replaced the MC with a 7/8" mc for a Z, and it gave me pressure, but only in the second half of the brake pedal travel. I raised the entire system, bled it thoroughly in order Front MC, Rear MC, Front NLSV, Front R, Front L, Rear L, Rear R, Rear NLSV, Center NLSV. Bench Bled MC, and solid fluid when bleeding. Proceeded to Adjust the brakes like Datzenmike states, and I fear that my NLSV still traps air back and forth within itself, or it is bad. After driving the 1200 miles, my braking situation changed from needing a two pump to brake nicely, I had good pressure with one pump, but the front brakes don't feel like theyre grabbing as hard as the rear, and the front brakes squeal and squeak as if there isn't enough pressure in the front. If your situation is similar to mine, my guess is that you have okay brakes, soft in half the pedal, harder in the 2nd half. And if you release and pump again you'll have good pressure hold and braking. My best bet for you is to completely make sure that the NLSV is completely bled, through and through. I think if air is trapped within, or if its bad, it'll act as if your truck is either "loaded in the rear" or on an incline, causing inadequate pressure to the fronts or rear. I've tapped my NLSV with a hammer once to see if that ever did anything, but I never really noticed it. @datzenmike Do you know if people who owned a 75-77 620 that came equipped with the NLSV and 4-way drums have trouble bleeding the brakes alot? I suspect that the 78-79 with discs in the front have a much easier time in bleeding. One annoyance with my '76' Datsun Pick up Service Manual by Nissan' is that it does not state the bleeding order of the 620 with the NLSV. One word of advice in bleeding drum brakes (By my personal experience) Is to make sure that all of your brakes are adjusted correctly before doing a full bleed. If you have one brakes with inadequate grab (as in it's out of adjustment) it can cause weak braking, especially if its the fronts.