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demo243

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Everything posted by demo243

  1. At this point we were good to fire. Cranked for oil pressure... nothing... pulled the filter back filled the pump from the filter adapter and pre filled the filter. Cranked again... OIL PRESSURE! Now we are good to fire... Go to start... no spark... first though was the edis coil and the plug wires thinking they werent contacting each other... swaped to a different coil... still no spark... a little more digging to relize that when the ignition was on the megajolt unit had power, but when I turned the igntion to start the megajolt unit would lose power --- hence no spark since I am running a hard limiter on the megajolt board, power to the coil is provided from megajolt. A few calls with Rag10 and we had that rewired and sorted out to provide constant power when cranking. Next issue... wont fire... keeps trying and backfire out of the carbs but wont run.... seems like timing is off... hand crank to TDC and check all the markings and the trigger wheel and sensor... everything is lined up perfect.... Did some reading on the Autosport forums (megajolt forum) and someone mentioned they crossed the coil wires and had to swap the plug wires.. Swap the plug wires... FIRES FIRST TRY! Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Plugged in a straight 15 degree map and damn it is dead on with the timing light... 15 degrees does not budge. Shut it down to drive it the next day.
  2. side note--- back to electrical... Oddessy PC680 using T3 bracket mounted to a piece of alum stock behind the passenger seat Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Hard to see in this photo... but ran power to a 200amp circuit breaker mounted under the pass seat then goes to the started an a 175amp mega fuse in the engine bay Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr
  3. Couple of other issues... The OBX 4-2-1 header wasnt even close to fitting... even with a big F'n hammer.... Ordered up a Megan 4-1 shorty and it fits great. If you are handy with a welder you could clock the flange on the lower pipe a few degrees and it would fit fine too... for me a temporary solution of a 2" exahust extension flange allowed me to clock the lower portion as needed... the rest of the exhaust is pretty hacked together but it works... definitely needs a visit to a good exhaust shop. Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Another issue I encountered was the trans bushing/isolator. Most said the 240/260/280 worked fine.. but with the T3 crossmember it sat realllly low.... ended up picking up this energy suspension one, Ill have to dig up the part number. fixes it well enough... although I did need to open up the trans mount holes to allow it to slot forward and backwards... Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Long story short... not impressed with the Mckinny Mounts or the T3 trans xmember... Still amazed someone hasnt "dialed" in this swap and offered mounts... but I guess there are alot of different routes people go. Once the engine and trans were in I had to sort out the drive shaft. --- the shaft that came with my car had seen better days, and rather then shorten it again and rebuild it, I called the guys up at the driveshaftshop.com and had them custom make a 3" aluminum driveshaft. Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Fit in perfectly - great guys over there Radiator also needed to be taken care of. Really didnt like the CX racing one and had heard of people using the AFCO 80104N but without many photos... liked the dim's and price an pulled the trigger Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr This shows a comparisson to the Koyo 510 rad -- AFCO on left and Koyo on right Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Found some generic floor isolators on Grainger for the lower mounts and bent up some aluminum stock for the upper mounts Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Then went to oreilly and politely asked the guys to let me browse their rad hose selection to see if I could find some that fit --- Part numbers still on hoses- they were cut down FYI so the ones off the shelf are longer with an extra bend or two Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Due to the rad inlet and outlet being bigger then the KA inlet and outlet I did need to use some hose shims that were aquired off of summit racing You will notice in this shot I had to go to an inline thermostat in the upper hose... more on that latter IMG_2198 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr
  4. Dropping it in did not come easy.... some issues I was expecting... but not as many as I encountered... Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr The biggest issues were with the motor mounts and trans bracket.... currently running the T3 trans bracket and McKinney motor mounts... not really happy with either.... Ray fabbed the pan up with a stock 510 xmember and stock 510 soft mounts... but when I went to mount it up something was different with the xmember.... so it didnt fit right. I ended up using the McKinney mounts to get the extra height to clear the pan from the xmember and the steering linkage.... not stoked... but they will work... Was having a hell of a time getting 510 soft mounts to work Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Also I felt the engine was really far forward... so with the help of Rag10 I got some custom hard mounts fabbed to set the motor back further into the bay Will need to get some shots of these... cant find em on my phone/flickr
  5. Then I began work on building the motor- Parts back from the machine shop... both heads were really bad... rolled the dice on a Rock auto head... its working now... but not without its trouble.... Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Custom trigger wheel instal for the EDIS/MegaJolt Install Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Rock Auto Head Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Core Plugs installed and block painted Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Fresh bearings Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Wiseco Pistons and Eagle Rods Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Working on rings and bottom end install Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Coming together Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Timing done Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Buttoned up Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Home work bench aluminum stock custom fab hahahah --- block offs and trigger wheel sensor mount Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Ready to drop in Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr
  6. While all that was going on I had Ray at Garage Autohero fab up a custom rear sump pan and pick up for me. Really great work, the end result was pretty awesome--- big thanks to Trophy again for letting me borrow his block so Ray had something to fab it up on since I was down here in CA and Ray is up in WA... its a bit expensive to ship a block up.... Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr
  7. In the process of tearing the wiring apart I decided it would be easier to upgrade to Speedhut Gauges and build my own dash then try to adapt all the 510 gauges. So I ordered a set of Speed huts and began work on a custom dash Speed huts are in Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Started with cardboard templates Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Then transferred it to metal. Ordered some metal from onlinemetals.com got some thin alum sheet metal. Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Used the corner of a 2x4 and some clamps on the work bench to make the bends Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Then used the appropriate hole saws to cut holes in the dash Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Got some universal 12v cig lighter and usb adapters, and painted it matte black Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr
  8. Yea its kinda of a waste to not use their connectors... But I think getting their wires was worth it both for the many different colors but also because they are labeled. You could potentially build a kit... All the wires are more then long enough to connect. Yea I know the uni filters aren't ideal... Plan is eventually go to itg s Need to get my afr working ... Sitting at a constant 7.4 no matter what.... Going to try and recalibrate it The other issue I am having right now is with the tps sensor and megajolt. It will allow me to calibrate it.... But then it's not reading it when running ... So right now it's just on a straight 15 degree map
  9. While all that was going on I started thinking about getting the gauges to work... knowing there was going to be some wiring needed I pulled the dash and found a ratsnest... I dont think there was a single wire that was one solid color for its entire run length. Also included were some less the stellar connections and even a hot wire left totally un protected Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr I made the bold move and ripped it all out- only thing I left was the tail light harness. After much research I decided on the American Auto Wire Highway 15 kit - if i were to do it again I would probably go for the 22 even though I dont need all of the fuses... just nice to have the extras, and for any one with interior lights or accessories or running fuel injection I would go the 22 as well. I chose this mostly for the fact that the fuse box comes with out wires connected allowing your to run only what you need and potentially do one wire at a time - after thought... it would be cleaner to run groups of wires together. I think my wiring organization is acceptable for my first time but definitely would prefer it to be a bit cleaner. It is also worth noting that i didnt really use any of the connectors provided by American Autowire using mostly 3m heatshrink crimp connectors. I did use there wires though as the labels should prove helpful in the future should i need to track down any wiring issues- Highway 15 fuse panel- Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Mounted with the megajolt box next to it on a piece of aluminum on the fire wall - later I mounted the fan controller between the two Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Nothing special but I highly recomend getting some space to lay everything out -- just makes it easier to see what you have Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr As I said... not the cleanest.. .but you can see most of it... and almost all wires are constant and marked from fuse to destination. All engine wiring goes through the hold right under the fuse box, all accessory (lights and what not go through the lower right hole) - mounted the relays for the headlights and horn under the glove box. Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr With the American Autowire instructions along with a 510 wiring diagram plus some tech support from Rag10 I was able to get it all wired and working. Only think missing are reverse lights. Just need the connector for the trans. Head lights are wired using the american auto wire switch with power going to two relays and then the stock stalk connecting the ground for either the high or low beams.
  10. Forewarning - it seems my uploads got jumbled around so this may jump around too... The build it self also jumped around alot as it was done over a year and half with lots of frustration and interuptions First step - Pull the L Motor - Never dug deep enough to figure out what the issue was ... but it was knocking bad after throwing the crank pulley off at Thunder Hill Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr And sending stuff off to the machine shop - Thanks Busta! Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr For those interested in KADE carb manifolds these are the two I was able to find -- This is an unknown origin - many have said its the Nismo/Nissan USA one but those were produced by Ed Pink and he said it was not one of his Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr This one is I believe the Nissan Motorsports USA one - made by Ed Pink Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Liked the look and Quality of the EWL one so I used that one --- after much searching I still have been unable to find any information on who produced it.
  11. Red would fit the colors of the car better... but I am partial to the look of the blue NGK wires
  12. Damn its been a long time.... Well just like everyone else Photobucket screwed this thread...... So I have switched to Flickr.... and hopefully this will work. I am working on ripping all my old photobucket photos and will try and dump some of the better ones. In the mean time--- finally and update. Its Alive! After a year and a half she drove under her own power again. Still got plenty of kinks to work out but its running.... So stay tuned for the inevitable photo dump--- Heres to tearing out my L... Building a KA... and dealing with all the associated issues that arise... including a full rewire. Bear with me as it may take a couple days to get it all uploaded.... but Ill just leave this here to keep you entertained. IMG_2198 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr
  13. demo243

    Datsun BBQ......

    Planning on it! Hustling to to get her together
  14. demo243

    Datsun BBQ......

    Random Harley that showed up
  15. demo243

    Datsun BBQ......

    Bummer dude What happened? get it sorted out???
  16. demo243

    Datsun BBQ......

    I got a spare block too, but sounds like Lozer has you cvered. Got heads and other crap too Anyone got a shorty ka24de header? Or anything other then an obx? Having header problems with my swap
  17. I knew it wasn't gonna a be easy ... Especially with carbs:... But I did think the actual mounting wouldn't be the easiest not the hardest.......
  18. It just suprises me that no one makes mounts... I mean come on someone makes em to swap into an AE86... Up in norcal- but Rag10 is gonna help me out with the mounts
  19. Sorry all- been busy .... lazy... and frustrated.... time for some more updates Distributor block off- Trigger wheel sensor Then came the fun.... Been around with the motor and trans mounts for more hours then Im willing to admit.... this is the most frustrating part... With the T3 trans mount forward it puts the engine way to far forward... with it back facing it actually puts it in a nice spot with the engine pretty close to the fire wall.... but this requires new hard motor mounts... also the t3 trans xmember even with the energy suspension bushing is going to require a spacer... pretty bummed on that.... also in trying to get everythign lined up I may have gotten a bit carried away with the cut off wheel... and this car is gonna need some sheet metal work... Also even with the engine and trans lose it still seems like the drivers side mount is further back then the passenger side.... no matter how I tweak it all anyway pictures are worth a thousand words or something like that Lots of clearance this way The angles are off too on the mounts verses the x-member... So super frustrated right now... really just want to load it on a trailer and drive it somewhere to have the engine/trans/driveshaft taken care of.... The other option is get some custom mounts fabbed kinda like the ones below... and then drill the holes for the soft mounts myself.... photo stolen from the510realm If using the stock 510 soft mounts Id like to pull them up to there stock positions too.... but I dont think i can take accurate measurements myself to make this happen..... Nobody said this would be easy....
  20. Block Mounts are definitely right. You can only mount then on their specific sides. The passenger side front is offset down to clear the filter adapter. Ive got both s13 and s14 block mounts and it looks like the s14 ones actually sit it just a hair back Going to cut some more of the trans tunnel as it seems to be hitting a little bit, but I dont want to cut to much since the trans actually needs to drop down about an inch to meet the x-member... need to get under there to look at driveline angles too though...
  21. Well its in- But it didnt go willingly.... and Im not particularly happy with how its sitting... Pan and Pick-Up showed up - Big Shout out to Trophy24!!! and some nice looking work by Ray at Garage Autohero Spec Stage 1 Clutch and Fidenza LW Flywheel Putting up a good fight.... Got it in the car with the header up but then ran into a clearance issue so ended up pulling it off to mess around with positioning. So its in.... But Im not happy with it... I forgot to snap a photo of it... but I can not get it to mount up on 510 soft mounts with the upper soft mount hole aligned with the lower x-member hole... passenger side will mount up but then the driver is about an inch behind where it needs to be... managed to wrangle it on there but then the driver side mount was super tweaked. Was able to get it in and bolted up with the McKinney Mounts, but this puts it higher then I want and still doesnt give me the clearance I want.... also puts the trans about an inch in front of the trans x-member. --- also I feel it might not be in the engine bay straight either (rear end of the motor kicked to the driver side a hair) Plenty of clearance on the driver side... Passenger side it super close though... and it shouldnt be this close based on the photos Ray sent me when he fabbed up the pan So I am thinking I need some custom block brackets to offset the motor back about an inch --- plenty of room to move it back I could potentially slot or re-drill the stock block brackets but that ill only get me 1/4-1/2" and I would like to go a full inch back- maybe a hair more... need to take some measurements But ideally I get something fabbed like what Duke or Creepy did - Dukes - Creepys - Or possibly something like the 620 mounts but those are fully fabbed.
  22. Can't weld... Yet... But I'll keep that in mind.
  23. Yea I'm in Pacifica I've read about those guys in the south bay too- they seem to have a good rep- I was gonna reach out to them about shortening and custom built too I saw you picked up that 510 with honda motor - I remember browsing through that build thread - I think he used the same wiring harness I'm planning on. How the wiring look? EDIT: I think that was a different yellow 510 on stanceworks with a Honda swap.... Idk been wasting to much time at work researching datsuns hahaha
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