Jump to content

Cardinal Grammeter

Senior Member
  • Content Count

    781
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

177 Excellent

About Cardinal Grammeter

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    East of Pittsburgh PA
  • Cars
    1974 620

Recent Profile Visitors

6,942 profile views
  1. Didn't know that about drum shoes - that they are thicker to allow for grinding. FINAL UPDATE: My plan was to get the Wagner drums from RA but by the time I figured out how to return the bad ones, they were out of them. I found ONE on eBay and all I can say is that it is the closest thing to a "billet" part imaginable - they are 80% machined surface from ANY view angle! ...and it was smooth as silk when installed.
  2. 6 lugs, 6 lobes. Same as honing cylinders with a deck plate: 6 head bolts around cylinder, 6 lobes. Any time you apply a local load to a structure, it is reacted somewhere else. I believe the problem is thermal distortion due to poor casting dimensional tolerances: Drums had massive balance cuts in them indicating lots of metal in the wrong place. This would produce warping when any thermal gradients from friction area to hub - in this case, thick sections would conduct heat faster than thin sections resulting in different thermal gradients and hence thermal expansion of the casting. It doesn't take much to grab the shoe when you consider what a 1/2 turn of the adjuster accomplishes. This was noted when testing: for the first 60 seconds, there was NO pulsation. But after a minute or two, the pulsations appeared - and this was with the brakes adjusted loose. I put the OE drums back on and it was pure butter. Returning and upgrading to some Wagners which are supposed to be the finest you can buy. Definitely better than Bendix and Raybestos.
  3. Brakes worked perfectly. When the bottom star wheel brake adjuster housing broke away at the backing plate slot, it put a shallow gouge in the drum - I think I could have had it cut and be within spec - I decided to get a new drum. Since the other drum OD backing plate seal edge was half missing since rusting away, might as well replace it too. So I put 2 new $17 RockAuto DuraGo drums on it. Now the rears vibrate terribly like massively out of round. When brakes are dead cold, it seems like they do not, but when the brakes heat up the smallest amount - like driving a 1/2 mile w/o using them - the vibration is present. (The brakes are loose and the drums turn w/o any drag.) The vibration is NOT apparent in the brake pedal. When the truck slowly comes to a stop, I can feel the brakes grabbing, letting go, grabbing, .... etc. So I'm thinking some kind of brake surface issue. I took them off to inspect. There was an uneven surface finish: a band of shiny surface was present on both drums - the rest of the drum area was dull. Even though there was no significant circumferential variation, I thought maybe it doesn't take much variation for circumferential "patches" of broken in areas (these would grab more), to be realized. So I roughed them up with a coarse cartridge roll and swapped them side to side. Minor improvement but still unchanged. Things I will be checking: *) Replace one side with old drum - If vibration goes away, new drum bad. If NOT: *) Replace other side with old drum - If vibration goes away, both new drums bad. If NOT, well... that should be impossible. I am also worried that it may not be a 2-lobed out-of-round elliptical distortion but a 6-lobed distortion due to lug nuts. If the new drums are bad, I'll try to observe runout on axle. This is VERY annoying...
  4. Sounds like your B8000's are probably the same belt length as mine. QUESTION: Mike, did your 620 retractors have that positioning tang above the bolt? I was at a friends house that has a 240z and has been a Datsun guy for 40 years. He is over 6' tall and while not skinny, I would say he has a slight belly on him but nothing someone would call fat. He said I think even in his 240 and possibly another car, while he could fit in the belts, there wasn't much extra room left at all. I'm guessing is THE ANSWER is that early Datsun seat belts were designed for small people. As time passed, these seat belt lengths increased. I wonder if 720 belts would work?
  5. QUESTION: Do you still have your 710? (Wonder why the swap and YES, my B8000 belts slide through the lock too - so that is "620 correct.") QUESTION: Could you measure the retractor belt length? If it's 93" then I've got the correct belts and they simply are not big enough for a fat guy.
  6. Just thinking: RETRACTOR LOCATING PIN: (try to determine if these belts are from a 620) The 86820-B8000 retractors have a bent metal "pin" that fits through a 5/16" hole about 2.5" above the mounting bolt to keep the retractor from swiveling on the bolt. I had to drill this hole in my cab meaning that there should be a different cab part number. Further, since the belts are stamped 1975, the cab year should be 1975 or 1976 Checking cab part numbers: Early Cab was used until 7507 which sounds like it was used or the 1975 model year. But since the early cab doesn't have the locating holes, these belts could not be from a 1975 cab which the seller claims was the case. 1st Cab revision was 7508 to 7707 which could have the locating holes and the 86820-B8000 belts. NOTE: Looks like model year transitions from July to Aug - QUESTION: Is this correct? # part# model from to qty 1 COMP-CAB METAL 60010-B5555 T 7508 7707 1 60010-B8050 T 7507 1 60010-B9335 DX 7708 1 60010-B9350 DX 7602 7707 1 60010-B9835 T 7708 1 60010-B9836 CAMP 7807 1 THE OTHER PART NUMBER: TK-720-1713C Could this be a Takata Kojyo part number? Cannot find any TK links even on google.jp BUT Takata is referenced all over the place regarding Nissan seat belts. IF BELTS NOT FROM A 620, WHAT THEN? That leaves a 610, 710, and B210. I've tried to find pics of these cars to see if the seat belts "look the same." A smaller car, like the B210 might be able to get away with a 93" belt length??? BUT, the short stiff inboard belts are definitely for a bench seat which I don't think these cars ever had - therefore, these belts have to be from a 620
  7. I wonder if a search through Japanese google would bring back something? I don't think WayBack would do any good.
  8. This is the tag from the retractor assemblies which don't appear ANYWHERE! THEORY: It's an obsolete superseded #? I had a 510 Wagon belt in my 620 with the following #: 86820-N2200 which appears nowhere in carpartsmanual.com, HOWEVER an online search brought back a superseded # H6820-B5002 which does appear in carpartsmanual.com I will call dealership next week and see if it has been superseded. (But I would think it would be online which again makes no sense.)
  9. What year/engine is the air cleaner for?
  10. Was your short inboard belt which lays on the seat made with just a web strap? Now my short belt has a hard plastic cover over stiff metal and is not flexible by any stretch of the imagination. It is so stiff in fact, that there is a sharp 45* twist right before the lock so that the lock is not digging into your side when tightened. If it was sticking out another 12": a) it wouldn't be laying on the seat but pointing off in some weird direction, and b) would be very uncomfortable when everything is cinched up. There are also ton's of airplane style extenders. I haven't taken the time to see if the 620 uses the same lock shape. I was also thinking of installing a longer belt in the retractors however the plastic cover appears to be formed or shrunken over the mechanism. Would it be possible to stretch it off if warmed in hot water??? Obviously retractors are not meant to be tampered with. Oh, and here is a LOT OF INFO from the 1200 folks (again!): http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Seatbelts And finally, I'd like to find out what the superseded part # is for 86820-B8000.
  11. I do not understand what you did. I like the "Costs about $10" and "Keep the old belts!" Thanks, this Extender, when you say "...bolted...on the floor..." do you mean where the short, stiff belt w/the push button lock is bolted? The "Spindle", what parts is this? part of the Retractor? ...or are you talking about one of those "inline" "belt winders"?
  12. .... but they don't even come close to getting around my 52" waist. There is at least a foot gap between the clasps when fully extended. Did they change the mounting spots? My 74 has the shoulder swivel over half way up the rear window (NOTE: could this point have been lowered to the top of the seat for retractors?) and the retractor is mounted low, basically on the floor board. WTF... EDIT: MY BAD! The seat belts match - the 510 Wagon # was the one I removed from my truck. Argh! LATE NIGHT ZOMBIE MODE (Altzheimers????) So I'm correcting the following: Looks like I may have been sold the wrong parts (Facebook.) What is crazy is that they really look like a matched set with all the mounting washers, bushings, wave springs, etc. AND BOTH BELT Lengths are 93 inches! Fat Guys Don't Fit? I had a 92 Metro and the passenger payload was 550# for ALL 4 passengers! ....and yet, the seat belt had tons of room for me. The retractor assembie labels are LH) 86820-N2200 (1974) which shows up as a 1974 King Cab on the net (https://seainterio.com/86820-n2200) but NO LISTING on Carpartmanual and Looks like this # is superceded by H6820-B5002 (https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-belt-safety-black-h6820b5002) which is for a 510 Wagon 7109 and up RH) 86820-B8000 (1975) which has NO LISTING on CPM nor internet The stiff latch belt has both 86871-B8001 and 86871-B8000 part numbers listed. (the other belt is installed and need to remove to read numbers) EDIT: Since both the 86820 and 86871 end in B8000, I'm guessing they are correct. Could the mounting points be so much different from my 74? Could King Cab or Bucket Seats make that much difference? ____________________ AFTERMARKET SEAT BELT SIZING GUIDE: https://www.seatbeltplanet.com/p-35845-seatbelt-selection-guide.html The belt length is basically 75" + 2(retractor to B-pilar swivel = 28") = 131 inches for the 620. (not 93")
  13. Yeah, mine is too. Wattage info on bulbs is hard to find and forget about OE specs unless you have the Owner's Manual. The 4000 & 5000 series are obsolete. The H5000 & H5000XV series are what is available. The "Problem" was concern of switch/fuse issues since the H5001 High beam draws 50w instead of the OE 37.5w . However further study revealed if paired with the H5006 Low beams which draw LESS then OE (35w instead of 50w) you end up with a net decrease of total High beam current. The LED ones are over $650 not counting the wiring. Too expensive. Converting from OE 4000 series to H5000 series has serious increase in High Beam brightness without any additional power requirements: Low: 19k to 20k High: 40k to 70k And the Sylvania H5000XV XtrVision offer better vision due to color temperature with no additional power requirements:
  14. EDIT: Mike, do you know what the Halogen wattage was that blew your fuses? The following here suggests that a 4-light Halogen upgrade does not increase wattage: I found a 74 and 76 Owner's Manual and the OE were 4000 series bulbs: Inner: High: 4001 37.5w Outer: Low: 4002 37.5w/50w WHAT I'VE BEEN RUNNING FOR 5 YEARS w/o ISSUE: Just checked and I'm running H5006 Wagner Halogen Lows and Koito Highs (might these be the OE bulbs?). Get this, the H5006's are 35w/35w which is lower than the OE 37.5w/50w 4002 Running H5000 series would result in lower current draw on both Low & High beams: High: 4002/4001: 2*50 + 2*37.5 = 175w H5006/H5001: 2*35 + 2*50 = 170w EDIT: An HALOGEN UPGRADE is possible too: The Sylvania H5000XV XtraVision series has the same wattage as the H5000 series
  15. If OE was incandescent, there are 2 possibilities: 1) 5001 50 watt 3.91 amp load ( it's the same load as the H5001 halogen) 2) 4001 37 watt 2.93 amp load This is really interesting, how do you determine what the OE obsolete light was? Delta stuff looks good but the 5.75" are $320 a pair ad the 7" are $365 which is about 10x what I want to spend (!) EDIT: Home Depot has the H5006 special price $5.88 which is about 1/2 price. EDIT2: Called Wagner Tech and they have no information on original bulb specs - they suggested the Owner's Manual which in some cases has info NOT in the FSM. Of course I don't think I have one. Anyone? EDIT3: Found the Owners Manual, 4000 series bulbs are used: Inner: High: 4001 37.5w Outer: Low: 4002 37.5w/50w NOTE: the OM has ALL the bulb specs and wattages.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.