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Cardinal Grammeter

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About Cardinal Grammeter

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    East of Pittsburgh PA
  • Cars
    1974 620

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  1. Cardinal Grammeter

    Flush or Recessed Broken Bolt in Aluminum Removal

    I'm going to try MIG today hopefully - depends how long I last in the heat roofing my house... FYI: My buddy blew up his Mini Ductor - one of the coil's insulation was damaged and it was shorting out, so it died. Also, the inductive heater only works on magnetic steels - just like inductive cook tops.
  2. Cardinal Grammeter

    Flush or Recessed Broken Bolt in Aluminum Removal

    Just swapped out my CO2 MIG bottle so I'm thinking about the MIG thing. Still have to see buddy with Snap On Inductive Heater Tool. Since the boss is a protruding cylinder longer than the bolt, there should be an inductive coil that should work perfectly. For example: Inductive Loops Bolt Buster Boss is right by the fuel pump. Don't like the idea of welding 1in away from he FP. There don't appear to be any fuel leaks or odor so is probably OK, but still... NOTE: The FP bolt that has the Neg Battery Cable was not tight at all. It was when I installed but I'm guessing all the engine vibration loosened it. (I've had many 4-cyl cars and none of them vibrate like mine. If I ever put a clutch in it, the flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disc will be individually balanced.)
  3. Cardinal Grammeter

    Flush or Recessed Broken Bolt in Aluminum Removal

    ADDITIONAL INFO: This is the ground boss on the head by the fuel pump for the negative battery cable. And it was broken 10 to 20 years ago I'd have to guess. So the corrosion has been going on for a very long time. I'm tempted to do the alum since I could easily clamp a hose on the boss to join and seal a makeshift reservoir for soaking. Fill it up and forget about it for a few days. And I could speed the process up by drilling through the "stud" too - that would expose clean metal which is more reactive.
  4. Cardinal Grammeter

    Flush or Recessed Broken Bolt in Aluminum Removal

    The way I've done this in the past in cast iron, but not as effective in alum due its high thermal coefficient of expansion: Drill through bolt using LH twist drill Using largest feasible oxy-acetylene, tip, heat the stud quickly before aluminum expands. This will yield bolt in compression so when it cools, it will be smaller. Unscrew bolt with easy out or larger LH twist drill Has anyone tried these methods which are all over the internet? Hot alum (potassium or ammonium aluminum sulfate?) dissolves steel w/o harming aluminum. NOTE: Saw a tube using the McCormick spice effectively. Building up with weld. Supposedly weld only fuses to the steel. Build up until can grab with vise grips. NOTE: I've also read that you can lay a nut on the alum and fill with weld in one step. Burn oxidation away with car battery. Build up with weld and then with good "arc-welding" jumper cables, run big current through bolt touching built up weld and aluminum near bolt. Slot bolt with auto body saw or Dremel cutoff wheel or similar, heat aluminum and unscrew bolt. (this would deface the aluminum with a slot. Or any other methods????
  5. Cardinal Grammeter

    earth ground for chassis harness???

    UPDATE: Finally a little time to work on this. The ground boss on the head has a broken bolt in it - that is why they used the fuel pump bolt. Don't like to booger drill and tap - like to extract properly and preserve boss threads. Note: Seem to recall if you arc weld to the broken bolt, weld will not stick t the alum - so just build it up and by that time, it would come out easily. I turned the headlights on (low beam) and measured 8 to 26ma at various locations: 15ma at the throttle cable firewall nut and 26ma from the broken "B" VR loom wire. I did find a problem with the large "B" from the Neg Bat Term to the very large (>1/4in) spade connector in the loom: the ring connector @ the NBT is corroding and the wire itself seems like a smaller gauge than in the loom. Don't know if that is intentional but don't see why since there is a fuseable link on the Pos Term. MODIFICATIONS: Secondary Body Ground: There is a heavy spot-welded firewall bracket for the hydraulic lines that actually has a hole in it for at least a 1/4 in bolt. That is going to be my second body to battery (keeping strap from NBT to radial support bolt Alternator Grounds: 1) to VR mounting screw and 2) to the NBT. ____________________ NOTE: The throttle cable is a ground path which will always have some current flowing through it. To be sure there is negligible current through it, the alternative parallel ground paths must be much larger gauge and/or much smaller resistance.
  6. Cardinal Grammeter

    earth ground for chassis harness???

    I'm also worried about how much Loom Damage was done when the VR "B" completely burned down. There appear to be a lot of "B" splices within the Loomb (as shown in the FSM.)
  7. Cardinal Grammeter

    earth ground for chassis harness???

    Thanks for the gound cable location, Mike. I saw some tubes about good grounds for sound systems and the ultimate body ground is the seat belt bolt. I DO NOT like the Loom ground ring connector on the Headlight Relay mounting screw. It is a small sheet metal screw into base thickness sheet metal. Also, the VR "B" and Loom "B" should not share that connector. If that screw goes open, then the ground path is no longer through that screw, but through the VR. The Loom and VR should have separate grounds points.
  8. Cardinal Grammeter

    Forum down today???

    I was panicking over the thought of Life Without Ratsun... I as in the midst of an electrical problem posting and I think Ratsun was down for almost 2 days.
  9. Cardinal Grammeter

    earth ground for chassis harness???

    I've just discovered I have a big ground problem: Ruined 2 accelerator cables Totally burned the VR black wire which also broke off at the harness. This is how I have things connected: Neg Bat Cable to Fuel Pump mounting bolt Braided Strap from Neg Bat Term to Radiator Mounting Bolt Observations of my 74 wiring: Small VR black wire, same size s the other VR wires Large Alt Black wire to Loom Large Loom ground to Headlight Relay sheet metal mounting screw into the radiator support just to the right of the radiator. Large Loom ground from Net Bat Term The only small wire is from the VR. Where does it terminate? or is there a loom internal splice to the large black wires? Further regarding the VR: For this wire to fry, if the circuit is as shown in the manual, another VR wire would have to fry since it would be in the circuit loop with the big amperage. However, I believe the ground wire is also connected to the VR chassis in which case if the body ground lug was not making contact, the current would make its way up the small black to the VR chassis which is screwed to the body. Is it possible the this ground lug is 3. above? I checked mine and I could rotate the lug under the screw head with my finger. Using a small sheet metal screw for a major ground lug is just wrong. Some electrical system weirdnesses: Dash lights very dim Turn signals cause headlights to dim Every once in a while, charging up a hill winding engine out, engine would shut off without any warning. By the time I pulled off the road, engine worked just fine. The monkeys that cobbled this truck up got into the wiring around the battery. ... might be missing another.... I would have though the braided strap from Bat Neg Term to Rad Sup would have been sufficient.
  10. Cardinal Grammeter

    Where to post Forum Help and Suggestions? (all my content)

    It seems that Search Forms will bring back old stuff over one year old - that's how I found some of my old stuff. Only My Content seems to be limited to 1 year.
  11. Cardinal Grammeter

    74 620 Throttle Cable wore thru sheath

    EDIT: Irrelevant since failure most likely due to bad engine/body ground. I don't like changing the title of a long thread - it would confuse people who read it and then later wanted to come back to it. Adding to the title is OK, maybe I should have tried that. Another problem is that people who read the origin title may not be interested in any more discussion of that topic not knowing that new information was present. Searching really needs an AI approach. I'm looking further into the Villhill motorcyle cable kit which is $20. Also, a lot of motorcycle cables have a 90* metal tube bend at one end. If this was at the manifold end, there would be a straight shot to the firewall. But not sure if this would work. Brake cables have small displacement and high load while an accel cable has large displacement and low to medium load - would it saw through?
  12. Cardinal Grammeter

    74 620 Throttle Cable wore thru sheath

    Yes, I know, but 74 620 Throttle Cable wore thru sheath - Options? did not state the aftermarket stuff is questionable. If someone buys an aftermarket cable and then thinks they are safe to arrive at their destination, they need to know just how bad these cables can be. So I decided it was worth a new thread with a Title that called attention to this - and that discussion of a robust solution would be good. Right now the Venhill U01-4-100-BK Universal Motorcycle Throttle Cable Kit for $20 sounds like it might be a good way to go. The sheath is spiral metal with plastic cover and teflon liner. I have to contact them to see if they are OK with 2" radii bends.
  13. Cardinal Grammeter

    74 620 Throttle Cable wore thru sheath

    EDIT: Irrelevant since failure most likely due to bad engine/body ground. My 620 is my daily driver. The ATP cable box looked like it sat on a shelf for 20 years. I think the original cable lasted longer What may have accelerated wear was the cable was about 1in too long so I had to run the sheath adjustment all the way to the end making the bends more severe. Might be best to go to a motorcycle shop and have one made with a teflon liner and maybe make it a long longer to eliminate the tight radius bends. But I will never buy an ATP cable again. And yes, carrying a spare, definitely!
  14. Cardinal Grammeter

    74 620 Throttle Cable wore thru sheath

    The hard plastic sheath appears to have not been able to take the heat, embrittled, fractured and chunks fell off exposing the cable. There are alternatives: Pioneer CA8635 NAPA BK 6101624 Has anyone noticed any difference between any of these replacements? Would like to find a LifeTime warranty for this garbage...
  15. Cardinal Grammeter

    74 620 Throttle Cable wore thru sheath

    UPDATE: Installed the ATP Y-640 Accelerator Cable early October 2017 and it has failed less than 8 months later. Failure was the hard plastic sheath embrittled, fractured, and then chunks of it fell off completely exposing the cable. EDIT: Again, with a completely melted and broken black voltage regulator ground wire, it is most likely this accel cable also failed due to ground current. The comment that the sheath was "baked an brittle" suggests the cable cooked it.

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