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Cardinal Grammeter

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About Cardinal Grammeter

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  • Location
    East of Pittsburgh PA
  • Cars
    1974 620

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  1. I'm going to have to take a couple pics of the sexy gloss black tank paint job and the shiny zinc plated mounting bolts. It's inspirational! Now if I can muster the energy to install my 5-speed that is taking up space in the garage (!)
  2. Finally.... FIXED! Was going to put the signal wire on the sender ground terminal just to demonstrate a "Full" reading gauge. As I was sliding the signal wire of the "nail head" terminal, it immediately got stiff and "scratchy" when rotated. Oh Snap! The terminal, when slid all the way over the nail head was actually loose. Sliding it not even 1/8" moved the terminal to where it clamped strongly. I knew it was immediately solved. And it was. Took 30 seconds.
  3. UPDATE: Fuel Gauge quit working since yesterday. This job is standing on my last nerve...
  4. I sort of kept the acid off the T terminals which looked like brass. Bending the arm in the rheostat is an old "scratchy" volume control trick. I inspected it and it looked less worn than the sender out of the new tank from OK - so I didn't mess with it. The Gates hi pressure E85 hose is not that stiff, was easy to put on. More room between tank and frame than I expected. So far, the fuel gauge is working fine. _______________________ On REDUNDANT GROUNDING: The black wire connects the Sender and Tail lights an is rounded somewhere on the chassis. However, there is a ground path to chassis though the ground terminal of the Sender. The path is Sender chassis > Lock Ring > Tank > Tank Brackets > Frame. If that proper chassis ground fails, ALL the ground current will go though the Sender ground terminal. SAME PROBLEM occurs with the Voltage Regulator: If you lose the proper chassis ground, ALL the current in that black wire goes through the small ground wire to the VR > Inner Fender > Chassis thus melting the insulation off and even oxidizing the copper until no metal is left - it breaks then. CHASSIS GROUND LUGS: It would be nice to know where these are.
  5. I was wondering if having the sender out of the tank for a day, letting it dry out, if a fine layer of oxide formed on the rheostat windings? And then after some usage (wiping) and protective gasoline and vapor, wiper contact was restored?
  6. Looks like it is corrosion or a mechanical connection problem: Drove to lunch, no gas gauge. Drove to dinner GAS GAUGE WORKED! Really perplexing because yesterday, I seriously wigged the connections on the T-posts on the sender. So what other thing could have a dodgy connection?
  7. Thanks for the tip about the tail lights. Are you saying the black wire to the sending unit is the ground for the tail lights? So the tail light ground is through the fuel tank sending unit? OR the black wire at the sender is also the tail light ground and the proper chassis ground is somewhere else (not the sending unit.) The latter makes more sense since if the tank was to be the ground, there would only be a single wire to the sensor. So the assumption is the tank is not grounded and the sensor ground is carried to the proper chassis ground. If that's the case, due to the painting and greasing of the mounting bolts, the tank itself may not be grounded to the chassis. JUST CHECKED: Have tail lights so the tank is grounded as is the fuel sensor ground terminal. Since I have TEMP, that means I should have regulated cluster voltage at the yellow. Tomorrow I'll touch them together. I do not see how I could have damaged that sending unit. Perhaps when I etched the exposed top to get rid of the rust I somehow ruined the connection to the fine ni-chrome wire on the inside...
  8. NO DOOR inthe 620 bed. And OF COURSE, being as meticulous as possible, new tanks is in, various maintenance done, exhaust repair done, more rust proofing done, and.... The @#$*(&#*(@ fuel gauge is dead on EMPTY! I checked resistances of my old gauge in the new tank and got readings. I'm pretty sure I have the two wires on the right terminals. I was thinking if I put the SIGNAL wire to the GROUND terminal, I would get a FULL. However there is so much paint on the tank, it is entirely possible it is not grounded. TOMORROW: Are the wires on the right terminals? (YELLOW is SIGNAL and that is the post with the black insulator) Is there voltage on the SIGNAL wire? Is the GROUND wire grounded? Do I get FULL if those two wires connected?
  9. UPDATE; Dust shields not possible since brackets do same thing. Old tank failed because rust starts with water getting between flanges due to capillary action. Tank was perfect in that regard, but I should have ran a fine weld sealing those edges. I have to laugh! Desert junk yards ship tanks all the time since a few days in the sun and they are totally fumeless. It takes forever for a tank to "fume out" in non-desert areas - so they do't ship.
  10. Got it out only broke 2 screws, torched out the stufs. TANK WAS SCRAP AND it was NOT THE ORIGINAL TANK! So I'm installing at least the 3rd tank... There was mud piled up on the sending uni and the side flanges where the 2 bolts are. I'm thinking of making a splash shield that will be held in place by the 2 bolts. I have a 8.5' siding brake and am thinking how to design it...
  11. Got a beautiful tank from Bud's from OK. VENTING: I don't have the expansion tank, nor the canister (although I'd like to get one to go with the plumbing that is still intact.) I'm thinking: *) Block or connect together the 2 top tubes that go to the exp tank *) Connect the remaining (aft most) to the line at the top of the filler neck. EDIT: put a "T" in this hose near the top and let this be the vent - maybe some hose hanging from it *) Use a vented cap NOTE: My current tank has some of those top fittings unconnected so maybe just hook up the way it is now since it doesn't seem to be a problem. The filler neck tube is unconnected too. HOSE: Concerned about the PITA supply line side fitting up against the frame. If that hose goes bad, have to remove tank to fix. In concerned about longevity and alcohol. Maybe use Gates fuel injection hose? There are Marine and Aviation hoses that are better. The PTFE lined hose is great but should use special fittings - I don't want to mod the end-bulged tubes coming out of the tank. EDIT: Just talked to tuner friend and NAPA sells an E85 "rubber" fuel injection hose. I'll use that. These are the clamps I want to use but might use the screw type considering how access is (if any): SPLASH GUARD: I might make something to keep spray off the forward 2 bolts on RHS that rot out. DEATH: I laugh! I'm doing this job like I want truck to last 40 years - I'm 67! hahahaaaaa
  12. I bought the engine mounts. But they are probably hard too since they were manufactured many years ago. Cold weather really makes a difference as the rubber in them gets harder and more engine vibration is conducted to the frame and then body. If I would replace mine, I would try to make them softer by drilling holes in the rubber of cutting some of it away. (Must be done in such a way as to not start tearing and failure.)
  13. Ratling is not good. And yes, 2-bolts has a very stiff and very weak axis. Is there much of a bad on the block? If the pad is narrow that is double bad. A 2 bolt U-bracket is used in V8's a lot - the Studebaker V8's have a cast feature on the exhaust manifold with 2 studs holding just such a bracket. But then V8's balance much better. I know that some 4-cyl's have a balance shaft which means the 4-cyl cannot be balanced well.
  14. Good Grief! That's pure nasty! A lot worse than losing the adjusting bolt, huh? When it snapped off did the adjusting bolt fail or hold? I guess the 3-bolt change is acknowledgement that the engine does vibrate. (I've noticed when below zero and the motor mounts are like rocks, that vibration goes everywhere. I even bot new mounts for $5 each on RA but hey, I'm too lazy to replace them. ...what was I thinking.)
  15. I've heard of one guy talking about "tightening all his bolts" before going on a long trip because the L-series engine vibrates so much. Well mine fell out and slid back over an inch - I have no idea how the fan belt stayed on and kept doing its job (at least enough to keep the warning light off and the water pump turning.) Having every SAE bolt and screw know to mankind, I had to go to Lowes to buy a M8 x 1.25 - 25.
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