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Cardinal Grammeter

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About Cardinal Grammeter

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    East of Pittsburgh PA
  • Cars
    1974 620

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  1. I had a 4 hour trip into WV and I missed a fuel stop on the interstate. I was shocked how quickly the gas gauge was going down and didn't think I could make the next fuel stop. So I got off the interstate looking for a gas station as per my GPS, but it no longer existed. Much drama ensued. From what I've learned, that worry was totally unfounded since you have fuel when the needle is a full width below the empty graduation. (2-3 gallons still present.) It's always good to know where Empty actually is. Some people when they buy a car, put a can of gas in the trunk an run it dry to see where that is on the gauge.
  2. I have to repair my tank and am trying to "sneak up" on running it as empty as possible. I already have a tiny gap between the edges of the Needle and the E graduation - so how big a gap when actually empty? (I figure a description in "needle widths" or the approaching "E" on the gauge.) I was also thinking I should reinstall my fuel pressure gauge on my cowl since I think I would see the pump starting to suck air before I would notice any engine cutting out. EDIT: Reinstalled FP gauge. Should be very helpful, when I hit zero pressure, I'll still have one bowl of fuel to get off the road safely. (I've got 5 gal in a can with me for when that happens.) EDIT2: Went to do my chores and the FP gauge went to zero before I could get out of my driveway (truck pointed downhill slightly.) So I added about 1 gallon and still no FP (truck still pointed downhill.) I added at least another gallon and I got FP. With 2-3 gallons added the Fuel Gauge needle is centered on the last graduation. NOTE: I TOTALLY HATE damped fuel gauges. BMW had undamped and you would see the needle flying about as the fuel sloshed in the tank. When you got really low, you could "see" the needle hit bottom and then you could wiggle the steering wheel to slosh the gas around which moved the needle and you could fairly predict what you had left. Running below a gallon was no problem. DAMPED GAUGE: I think I read that the damping is a drop of thick silicone oil on the needle axle bearing. I've taken gauges apart and wonder if I could dissolve it away with solvent?
  3. I will do solder if I can, however where it rotted out is the flange where the mounting bolts are. So I need the repaired flange to be strong enough. EDIT: was just thinking: if I can solder it up, I could solder an "angle iron" piece to reinforce/replace the rusted out flange. NEEDLE DESCALER: will use to break up rust SANDBLAST: will use to get down to bare metal but seem to recall this contaminates metal for.... (don't remember) - can use cartridge rolls too BRAZE: I don't think I'd do this since it really is a mess if any subsequent welding required. Might weld and then seal pinholes with solder (!)
  4. Time Left: 2 days and 15 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    new or used shipping to Jeannette, PA 15644

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    Jeannette, Pennsylvania - US

  5. Is there anything new regarding solutions for the early 620 tanks? Claims of a repo out there stated in other threads - perhaps for the later frame mount style? I'm looking at welding mine. The right side mounting bracket has a flange which bolts to the flange on the tank. Water wicks into these flanges and rots out the tank flange. I'll remove the bad tank flange entirely, weld as required, and then weld a flange piece where missing. The Dorman tank is about $200 so even for that money, I'd still weld. $100 and I'd buy one. $150 - hard to say... Even if I found a used one for $50, the shipping would put it way over $l00 from West Coast to Pennsylvania. car-part.com has one listed that is in poor shape for $33.
  6. I'm a bit irritated by another shop I went to. On the phone, I say use whatever black material you have on hand, etc. to keep costs down since work truck - quotes roughly $200-220, maybe $250 if it needs spring work. Then I get there and it's $350, can get any material I want, frame and springs will be painted, etc. and "I have to do a fine job because of my reputation." Although this guy will probably do the best job, I really don't want to do business with him - if he would have said $350, I'd have never drove the truck to him to look at and stuck with the 1st outfit that quoted $375 looking at the truck. So now I'm thinking this Trex duct tape has better adhesive than Gorilla Tape.... @#(*&*#($
  7. Thanks Frank! I suspect the bottom has been replaced: *) The back has 3 groups of ribs which do not line up with the 2 groups on the bottom *) The bottom is usually more worn than the back. But even if the back suffering from sun damage, it's hard to imagine the bottom not having any rips. Given the awful condition of the back, I suspect the bottom was so much worse it had to be redone. *) There is a color difference. But the back coincides with the nice Indo black pic I came up with and NOT the pattern in the parts manual. I'm getting pumped at the thought of a "new" seat! Tom
  8. Need today for tomorrow (Saturday) appointment. I want to get the layout and ribbing correct. Thanks Tom EDIT: After almost 2 hours found a 1980 620 that was sold or 115,000 Baht https://www.one2car.com/en/for-sale/datsun-620-single-bangkok-metropolitan-pinklao-borommaratchachonnani-road/2169393 This looks like the late model rib and wire layout but w/o the cutaway. The parts manual actually shows ribs and wire configuration - the early had almost a bucket seat rib layout: 2 pair of rib groups and 4 wires (2 per "bucket") including on the seat cushion. I really want to find a pic of that layout. (But it's probably not a good idea to put a wire in the seat cushion from a durability perspective. The Thai version in tweed w/vinyl ends I suppose.
  9. I really need to get a seat cover - my seat is tearing up my clothes. There was an old upholstery guy that thought this one company might have OEM patterns. In particular, I want a cover that has provision for the wire rod near the top of the back (top) cushion.
  10. It's a Japanese style (anime) sci-fi cartoon on the Netflix streaming service. I went back and got all the good ones: The truck appears and is RPG'd in epi 7. https://imgur.com/a/38MPfUw https://imgur.com/a/Y438LjC https://imgur.com/a/UoPWQ7g https://imgur.com/a/UoPWQ7g https://imgur.com/PNFWAiK https://imgur.com/RklnjwT https://imgur.com/YsQvJew https://imgur.com/xVmaqSf
  11. It's a 620 King Cab. Early grille. Even some of the instrument cluster. However, NO "DATSUN" on the tailgate - it was left blank. Tried to find images or clips but no luck.
  12. Factory Service Manual (which I have !!!!)
  13. SOLVED: It turns out the hole locations are in the FSM - both for Fender and Door mounts! DUH! (Homer Simpson) Didn't anyone know this?
  14. Unfortunately, there are no part numbers for the main body nor are there pics of the vacuum hose routing/connections. I checked the parts manual and there are 7 configurations: L16 to Aug 1972 L16 from Sep 1972 - hose fitting on base of snorkel L18 - all: angled heat duct pipe since the straight one hits the EGR L20B - all: hose fitting near base of snorkel A) to Jul 76 B) Aug 76 to Jun 78 had Altitude Compensation C & D) from Jul 78 two variants: FED: #18 is a hose, CA Camp: #18 became a T
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