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Solex door locks in a 510


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Solex locks are outstanding! the cheapest easiest security precaution, and they work!


Not only do these provide you with a round pop machine style key, but they have a deadbolt position in which the door cannot be unlocked without a key (not even from the inside)


Here we go:


Ugly locks... on my car the passenger side was considerably worse. looked like several screwdrivers had attempted entry



First you need to remove the door panel. If you've never done this before you should turn back now. Heres a little trick for those pesky window crank clips.

just slide a rag between the crank and the panel (or the little plastic washer if there is one) basically wherever the clip is. Now you're going to slide the rag back and forth around the crank until you pop the clip off (think of flossing...or a stripper) WATCH OUT FOR THE CLIP!!! you should know this already...they fly off into the land of disappearing clips!



Now you need to remove the linkage to the stock lock. I found the best way is to remove the arm from the lock. This is yet another stupid little clip but it is less likely to disappear. still, be careful and set the clip somewhere safe





Remove the "arm" from the linkage "rod"



Remove the plastic bushing, you'll need this so be somewhat careful



And now you can take out the stock lock. Just slide the probably rusty clip off, you might need to do some ply-ing, so get your pliers



Put the arm back on the stock lock, and reinstall the clip. If your locks are still good, keep them, you never know when you might need them (or the solex) for another car



If you try to slide the new lock in now you will find out that the hole in the door is too small in a couple of ways. grab a file and get working. the most important is the smallest of the slots. I would recommend doing this a little bit at a time and test fit the lock until it fits. THIS IS GOING TO MAKE A TERRIBLE NOISE, just thought you should be warned



remove the clip from the solex lock and install the number 3 arm. You'll see when you get the kit, theres a bag with several different arms, the one you need has a 3 on it



SIDE NOTE: at this point you should be sure that you are using the right solex lock, They ARE side specific. just make sure that when you put it in theres a slot pointing up, and one pointing forward (on the face of the lock). This is pretty basic, but I'm guilty of doing it wrong the first time :mad:


Remember that plastic "bushing" clip from the stock lock, now is the time to fit it into the new lock arm. Again be careful. This isn't a perfect fit, it'll be somewhat tight



slide in the new lock



install the new clip and the linkage "rod" You will need to bend the rod slightly in order for the deadbolt position to work. It just needs to be able to push a little further down than normal. This is really simple, try and test until you get it right



In order to test the lock, you need to make the latch think that the door is closed. just throw the latch with a screwdriver, it's simple


Once you're sure that the lock works right and the deadbolt functions properly (you shouldn't be able to unlock it from the inside) you can put the door panel back in.


And there you have it, New locks that are impossible to pick! Happy motoring!


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Corolla guys like them, I bought them off a guy on hachiroku.net, there's usually someone selling them there ever couple of months.


They will work on nearly any car with a seperate lock...yes they'll work on a 620, an I imagine the instalation would be nearly the same.


totally worth the $45. The set comes with a trunk lock too, might be good for a tailgate?

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  • 1 month later...

I like the idea, but aren't these similar to the Kryptonite locks you can open with a Bic pen? The ones that Kryponite spent a whole lot of money to send out free replacements for? I know those were Ace brand tubular locks, but these don't seem any different. Does anyone know if they are?



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after reading a few threads asking the same thing on various other sites (i just googled solex lock bic pen) it seems that these solex locks are a favorite upgrade in england and australia with the express purpose to stave off "15 yo hooligans" that jimmy the standard-key locks with screwdrivers and rifle through your loose change and cds. i read through a half dozen threads (googled: solex locks) saying they were a great upgrade from standard out dated locks but that they were by no means an end all answer (i don't think anybody thought they were), but that they do keep out the average knuckle dragging thug that wants quick entry into a vehicle for a couple bucks, some cigarettes and a few cds. i think it's a cool upgrade personally, plus i didn't get the door keys from the PO. i don't think it's gonna prevent somebody from getting into your vehicle if they really really want to (glass breaking comes to mind, that's how they got in my civic a few christmases ago), but it'll make some of the thieves think twice before they try and bust the lock.


edit: after some more reading i've found that even the kryptonite locks that were so popularly opened by a bic pen have been redesigned and are now not able to be opened by a bic pen.

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yea after reading everything i read, i don't think that's an issue anymore, if you're buying an old kit, maybe worry a little but i don't think solex has ever had the problem, just those kryptonite locks, which as i understand did not use solex brand locks. it's too bad there's not a way to make the solex door lock work as an ignition setup, i need new door locks, so i might be doin this conversion, but i think it'd be cool to have the doors and ignition match and them be these trick solex locks.

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well i was thinking of a key/button setup. i'm a geek and i like the look and functionality that are in some race-car setups. or maybe it's just that big powerful things need switches to be flipped and buttons pressed. like airplanes and big boats and tanks and shit. haha. for that matter i could just use the third solex on a custom lock box /glove box and put the start button inside there HA.

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the door locks have three postitions. Lock/dead bolt, neutral, unlock. In the neutral position the act like a normal lock, you can lock or unlock from inside...turn one way or the other to lock or unlock.


Then theres the deadbolt position. This is the same as where you turn it to lock the door, but you can put it there and remove the key and it dissables the inside lock so even if you bust out the window, theres no way to unlock or open the door.


The trunk lock is sprung, only rotates one diretion and springs back. Just enough to bump the latch open. Like I said, this would probably be the one to use if any as it would be a decent momentary "switch". But you would probably have to set it up so the lock actually pushed a seperat switch.


You might be able to swap the lock cylinder into a standard ignition, but that seems like too much work. Just put a panel of switches in POWER FUEL IGN FAN and a great big GO BABY GO button for the starter. just be sure to put it all behind a secret panel, and/or instal a seperate kill switch somewhere.

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  • 2 months later...
Just put a panel of switches in POWER FUEL IGN FAN and a great big GO BABY GO button for the starter.


YES! I am so putting a "GO BABY GO" button on my truck... :D


I never heard about these locks, but they sound pretty good... I've heard about using power deadbolts in cars, but these sound a lot easier to put in, and a lot cheaper to get...


And... couldn't you just eliminate the spring in the trunk lock and wire it up to act as an on/off switch, then have a momentary button for the starter? Or, as has been mentioned, put all the power switches and starter button behind a panel and use the trunk lock on that... you could probably make it a pop-out panel too... turn the key to pop out the cover, stick it in your glove box, and then when you need to leave the car just shut down the switches and replace the panel.

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I'm planning on something like that myself, but I'm thinking of going with a small cash or lockbox... something out of staples or office depot. As long as you drilled holes (and used grommets!) for the wires, you could mount switches or circuit breakers inside, and wouldn't have to worry about anyone getting into the box from the outside... if you really wanted to step it up, you could even make all the wires the same colour and route them all through the same hole, so even if someone ripped the wires out from the box, they wouldn't be able to just splice them all together.

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