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Everything posted by pope_face

  1. Thanks for the support guys. It was originally posted on dirtyimpreza.com. I've been more active on there for a while than on here, while I built my Subaru. I haven't read through it again, so I apologize to any Subaru specific references (I've caught at least one, just skimming through it). I'll tweak it again at some point to remove those references (for those people who aren't Subaru-savvy). Most of the pictures are off the internet... I just searched for images that suited what I was trying to indicate. The write-up I did myself (with some help from the internet, a university Physics textbook, and williaty on DI).
  2. CliffsNotes Version: - In the past, lighting in your car consisted of halogen-filled bulbs containing a filament. Each light took a particular style of bulb, and each bulb had it's own socket. While it doesn't matter as much for most lights, this is very important for headlights. - Headlights consist of a reflector and a lens. In the older style cars, the reflector collected the light and aimed it ahead, and the lens was cut to refract the light and form the beam pattern (either high-beam or low-beam). In newer, "crystal clear" headlights, the reflector is precision cut to provide the beam pattern, and the lens is only a protective cover. In either case, the reflector (and lens, in some cases) is designed to work with light that hits it at a very particular angle. This light has to come (essentially) from the focal point of the reflector. - As we mentioned above, the socket for headlights is very important. This is because there is a variety of halogen light bulbs available. Each of these lights is a different size and length, and the filament is in a different position compared to the mounting point. Because the filament is what makes the light, and because the reflector is designed to collect light from the focal point, this means that the filament needs to be at the focal point. So, if you use one bulb in a housing it wasn't designed for another, the filament won't be in at the focal point, and the light from your lights will be scattered. - Unlike halogen bulbs, HID bulbs are filled with a gas (like Xenon) that's heated up by a pair of electrodes. Rather than the light coming from (essentially) a point source (the filament), the gas itself glows. This is like having thousands of individual point sources. If you put an HID bulb in a housing designed for a halogen bulb, you're essentially doing the same as putting a halogen bulb in a reflector designed for a different halogen bulb. However, it's much worse in the case of the Xenon bulb, since you get much more light output per watt, so not only are you scattering a large proportion of the light (making it useless and annoying), you're scattering a lot more light (making it even more useless and annoying, and making you a douchebag). - So, if you want HIDs, you need to use a projector housing and lens designed for the HID bulb. You can then install the projector into your stock housing, as long as you have the "crystal clear" lenses. If you've got the lenses with the beam pattern cut into them (like the early GC/GF Impreza), then it's useless to put projectors in because the lens is just going to scatter the light anyway. Long story short: If you want HID lights, make sure you have stock headlights with clear lenses (like the GC RS headlights), and use a projector housing and projector lens designed for the HIDs you want. Install the projector housing and lens into your stock housing (make sure you get the alignment right), reinstall your headlights onto your car, and enjoy your new light output. If you do it any other way, you're just wasting your money.
  3. Now, as you can tell, there are only two basic styles of headlight: Those that use the reflector to make the beam pattern, and those that use the lens. However, all these lights tend to be quite large: The rectangular ones tend to be about the size of a postcard, while the circular ones are usually larger than a CD. So, what happens if you want a smaller diameter light, but don't really want to lose output? In that case, the best option might be a projector. These, like normal headlights with a lens-based beam pattern, use a reflector at the back of the light to direct the light forward, and a lens to fine-tune the light. However, the reflector in a projector light is much deeper than a regular headlight. This makes the reflector much more efficient at collecting the light and aiming it forward. Also, these lights use a rounded lens, rather than one with patterns cut into it. Also, while a normal lens-based low beam uses the pattern to refract the light and get the cut-off, projector lights use a physical shield inside the housing to prevent some of the light from hitting the lens. In other words, rather than "redirecting" the light passing through the lens towards the road, projector lights use a little piece of metal to create a shadow above a certain point. See how nice and crisp the top of the beam is, compared to the halogen low beam pattern above? Projector lights are available in two styles: Halogen, and HID. Halogen projector lights work as mentioned above: A filament has an electrical current applied to it, which causes it to heat up and glow. As with all other halogen lights, the filament is located at a certain point in the light, and the housing/lens is designed around that. HIDs use a similar process to create light. HID stands for High Intensity Discharge, and the bulb is basically made up of two electrodes embedded end-to-end in a little glass capsule. Much like halogen lights (which are filled with a gas), the capsule is also filled with a gas. However, unlike a halogen bulb, the electrodes are not connected by a filament; Instead, they are positioned close enough to each other to produce a spark when a current is applied to them, much like a spark plug in your engine. Although a spark can be visible, this isn't what produces the light in an HID bulb. Instead, sparks are repeathttp://cliff.hostkansas.com/pffimages2/Hella_H9_Low_Beam_%28640x320%29.jpgedly produced in order to heat up the gas inside the capsule, and it's this heated gas that emits light. In the case of cars, that gas is Xenon, which is why most HID lights are referred to as "Xenon" or "Bi-Xenon" lights. While Bi-Xenon makes it sound as if there's two bulbs inside, that's not true; There is only one bulb in a Bi-Xenon projector. But, remember that little shield in the projector housing that blocks part of the light to make it a low beam? In the case of regular Xenon projector, that shield is either there (for a low beam light), or it's not (for a high beam light). In a Bi-Xenon, the shield is there, but it can be moved out of the way by a little solenoid. The bulb stays on all the time, but when you're driving around the city, the little shield is in front of the light so that you don't blind other people. When you head out onto a dark country road and turn your high beams on, you're not actually turning on a different bulb, you're just moving the little shield out of the way to let more light out. Now, if you've been paying attention, you'll remember that halogen bulbs use a glowing filament at the focal point of the reflector, and that the reflector (and the lens, in some cases) are designed to collect that light and focus it into a certain beam pattern. When you switch between high beam and low beam, you're switching between the filaments, and that changes the focus of the light on the reflector and lens, which causes a change in beam pattern. But, when you switch between high beam and low beam in a Bi-Xenon light, you're physically blocking part of the light from reaching the lens. These are two completely different systems: One "moves" the light back and forth to change the beam, and the other blocks part of the light from reaching the lens. With such huge differences in function, why would you want to use one type of bulb in a housing designed for the other? That would be like trying to hammer screws into wood, or trying to use a screwdriver to drive nails: They might seem similar, and they serve the same purpose, but they function very differently and you'd look pretty ridiculous doing it. Instead, what you should do is retrofit the projector housing into your stock headlight housing. However, remember that there are two types of projector lights: Halogen and HID. Both use a little shield to make the beam pattern, so the million dollar question is: Can you use HID bulbs in halogen projectors? The correct answer is... No! If you've been paying attention, this should be obvious to you. Remember near the beginning, when I said that some bulbs for your house used a coating on the inside of the glass to diffuse the light, and that other bulbs didn't? Well the same thing applies here: Halogen bulbs use a filament that acts as a very localized light source. When a projector is designed for a halogen bulb, it is made with the assumption that the light will only be emitted from that very localized point. HIDs, on the other hand, act more like the "frosted" bulbs: It's not the filament that glows, it's the gas inside the capsule. The capsule has to be much bigger in order to fit both the electrodes and the gas, and because it's filled with hot, glowing gas, the light appears to come from the entire capsule at once. The light from a certain point in the HID bulb might be at the focal point of the projector, but most of the light would be off and bounce around unpredictably. This would be like having a lot of filaments in a halogen bulb: Even if you could focus the light from one of the filaments properly, all the light from the other filaments would negate that and just "spray" out randomly. Say you've decided to go the HID route anyway; You've got your stock housing, you've got the proper projector housing, and you've got the proper bulbs. Can't you just install that in your stock housing and be done with it? Well, maybe. Remember the two basic styles of headlights? One style uses the reflector to focus the beam, while the other uses the lens and the reflector. And what are the three basic components of a headlight? The bulb, the reflector, and the lens. We already know how important the bulb is, and both basic styles of headlight use the reflector to focus the beam, but I only mentioned the lens for one type of headlight. What about the other? Well, in the case where the reflector creates the beam pattern, the lens is only there as a protective cover; It doesn't actually do anything. These are the "crystal clear", or just "clear", headlights that people talk about. So, why does this matter, you ask? When the light leaves the projector, it's only going straight ahead, so it shouldn't be hitting the stock reflector anyway. And if the stock housing uses the lens to make the beam pattern, won't that just refocus the light from the projector and make it better? Technically, no... In fact, it'll make it worse. We already know how the lens can refract the light to make a nice beam pattern. The lens doesn't care how the light hits it, and will refract it regardless of where the light is coming from. However, it's designed to refract light hitting it in a very specific way: This is how the reflector focuses the light from the filament on the lens. A projector is already designed to do that: It aims the light hitting the reflector at the lens, and the lens then focuses the light into the beam. If you then put another lens designed to focus light in front of that, that lens would refocus the beam in a different way, and you could end up with some very awkward beam patterns. It would be like having 20/20 vision, and putting on someone else's glasses... You can still see, but your vision would be all weird, and you'd still look ridiculous. What's the moral of the story, you ask? Well, the moral of the story is that most lights aren't designed by some 16-year old in a basement, and they're more than just a mirror and a piece of glass. Automotive lights are carefully designed around existing bulbs to provide the best illumination for their intended purpose, whether it's high-beams, low beams, fog lights, or driving lights. When new types of bulbs or lighting are invented that provide better illumination at a lower weight, cost, or power consumption, often times the old designs won't work, and engineers must work to redesign the existing standard to adopt this new technology. While DIY is great for saving money and learning about your vehicle, there are some things that no sane person would do without having a lot of knowledge and experience. For example, you wouldn't take your engine apart and start putting in parts from other cars "just because they fit", and "you think it'll work better". Headlights fall into the same category; They are very carefully designed so that all the components work together as a system, just like an engine. While messing up your lights won't cause your car to explode, having lights that blind other drivers can get you a ticket, into an accident, or into a fist-fight. If you're going to do it, understand what you're doing. Even if you think you know what you're doing, you're better off talking to a professional. DISCLAIMER: While I made this thread to give people some information on how lights work, and how Xenon bulbs and HID projectors can interact with stock halogen housings, this is not an invitation or challenge to install HIDs (or any other type of light) into a housing not designed for them. The author (myself) takes no responsibility for any damages including (but not limited to): Emotional, mental, physical, or financial damages, injury, or death that arises for any attempts by you or anyone else to dismantle, modify, destroy, or otherwise do anything with any part of your or anyone else's vehicle. While the author strives for accuracy, the information above cannot be guaranteed and all individuals are recommended to do their own research. Again, the author is not liable, nor takes any responsibility, for anything you or anyone else does. If you don't know, DON'T DO IT.
  4. This is a write-up I did for a different forum, but I didn't see anything of the sort on here, so I thought I'd share it with you guys too. This is mostly directed to those people who like to put HID bulbs into halogen housings, which doesn't seem that common on here, but it might help people give some idea of how this all works before they start fooling around with their lights. The first post is just general info on lights and how beam patterns are formed. The second post is specific to projector housings and HID's. The third post is a Cliff's Notes version (if you want to know why you shouldn't do it, but don't care about the science behind it). The Guide To How Lights Work, And Why You Should Care (or How Beam Patterns Are Formed, And Why HIDs Are So Controversial) Most (if not all) of us know that a light will turn on when we apply electricity to it, and will turn off when that electricity stops flowing. This is true for any light, whether indoor or outdoor, in your house or in your car, LED or halogen. All of us have had experience with indoor lights, like the kind you have in your desk lamp, or in the ceiling of your house. The old-style of these lights - the incandescent bulb - was basically a thin wire (called a filament) suspended on two metal posts, with a glass case (the "bulb") around it for protection. When you flip the light switch in the house, electricity (or an electrical current, to be more exact) is applied to the filament, causing it to heat up until it glows. The more current that's applied, the brighter it gets. Now, most of us know not to look directly at the sun, as it can cause damage to your eyes, and most people tend not to look directly at lightbulbs either. If you did look at a light without any protection (like sunglasses or welding goggles), it would look like the entire bulb is lit up. For some time, lights were produced with a white coating on the inside of the glass. This coating diffused the light, scattering it in all directions and making it more pleasant. However, halogen lights nowadays are made with clear glass, and you can see the filament inside them. These bulbs don't have the coating to diffuse the light, so when you look at them with sunglasses or welding goggles (but don't try this at home!), you can see that it's just the filament that glows, not the entire bulb. The lights in your car work on the same basic principle: A bulb basically contains a filament suspended on metal posts, and you connect it to your electrical system by plugging the base into the socket. When you apply power to the bulb, it heats up the filament until it begins to glow. In this case, the glass is clear, so it doesn't diffuse the light. Instead, all the light comes directly from the filament, like in the picture above. However, light has one very interesting property: It only travels in a straight line (at least as far as we're concerned). While it might seem like the light gets everywhere when you turn on the lights in your house, it's not because the light curves around until it gets there, but because it bounces off of things. The easiest way to see this is by looking at a laser, which is a form of very focused, high intensity light. It only travels in a straight line, and the easiest way to get it to change direction is by bouncing it off of a surface, like a mirror. You can see this for yourself at home by making shadow puppets on the wall. When you shine a light on a wall in a dark room, it makes a bright spot on the wall. When you put your hand, a cardboard cutout, or anything else in front of it, you get a shadow on the wall. This is because the light doesn't go around your hand, but instead is blocked by it, preventing the light rays from hitting the wall. On the other hand, if you take a flashlight with a focused beam and shine it into a mirror in your bathroom, you can actually light up the wall opposite where the flashlight is facing. In fact, you can even light up yourself, even if the flashlight is pointing away from you, because you're bouncing the light off the mirror. Now, "Why should I care?", you ask? Well, we already know that light comes from the filament, and that it only travels in a straight line, so the only way to get it to go where we want is by redirecting it. For most of the lights in your car, it doesn't really matter where the light goes; For things like turn signals, brake lights, or reverse lights, you just need to see that the light is on, not direct it anywhere. However, when it comes to headlights, the direction of the light is important. We need the light to reach (relatively) long distances so we can see what's in front of us, but we also need to prevent that light from blinding anyone coming towards us. If you've ever been on a dark road, and someone was coming towards you with high-beams on, you know how annoying (and dangerous!) that is; It becomes almost impossible to see what's in front of you. But, wait a minute, if light is emitted from the filament, and only travels in a straight line, then how do we get such a nice beam pattern with low beams? The answer is: Reflection. Headlights essentially have three parts: The bulb, the reflector, and the lens. The reflector is essentially a giant curved mirror. As the light emitted from the bulb (the filament, to be exact) hits the mirror, it bounces off and changes direction. However, this change in direction isn't random. In fact, the light will bounce off at exactly the same angle as it hit the mirror. It's kind of like throwing a bouncy ball at the ground; If you throw it straight down, it'll bounce straight back up. If you throw it at an angle, it'll bounce up at an angle. The lower the angle you throw it at, the lower the angle it'll bounce back up with. In the case of the reflector in your headlights, the mirror is curved around the filament, so every ray of light that hits it gets reflected pretty much straight ahead and down. In fact, the way the reflector is designed puts the filament at the focal point of the mirror. That is, if you were to shine a light straight at the headlight from outside, the light rays would all converge at the filament of the bulb. This gives you lots of light straight ahead and on the ground when you have your low beams on, but still has a nice cut-off higher up to prevent light from shining directly at other drivers. But, what about high beams? If the light is reflected from the bulb to make the low beam pattern, how can you have high beams by just pulling on the switch? Wouldn't you have to change the bulb? The answer is: Because the high beam filament is placed in a different position than the low beam. Remember that the reflector is very carefully curved to put the filament in your bulb at its focal point. As mentioned above, this means that (almost) all the light given off by the filament is reflected straight ahead and down. If you change the position of the filament, it's no longer at the focal point; This means that the light given off by the filament will now hit the reflector at a different angle, and then will get reflected at a different angle. This changes how the light is focused. Some good examples of this are flashlights with an adjustable beam, like a Maglite: If you shine a flashlight at a wall, the light emitted from the bulb bounces off the reflector and makes a pattern on the wall. If you turn the top of the flashlight (which contains the reflector), you can change the pattern, from narrow/focused, to wide. What you're doing is actually moving the reflector back and forth, while the bulb stays in the same spot. Because the reflector stays the same, the focal point never changes, but the position of the filament relative to the focal point does, and this gives you the different beam patterns. Now, in most new headlights, the lens is clear and you can see the reflector. Like mentioned above, the reflector does the job of focusing the beam. However, a lot of old lights don't have clear lenses. Instead, they have patterns cut into them. In this case, it's not reflection that causes the beam pattern, but refraction. Refraction is the change in angle of a ray of light when it passes from one material (a medium) into another material. To be exact, it's the change in angle of a light ray when it passes from one medium of a given density, into a medium of a different density. For example, when the light ray goes from air into water, or air into glass. While this may sound strange, it's actually pretty common... If you've ever looked at a glass of water with a straw in it, you may have noticed that the part of the straw in the water doesn't seem to line up with the rest of the straw. This is because the light is refracted as it passes from the higher density medium (the water) into the lower density medium (the air). The same applies to the headlights in older cars: The light from the filament is bounced off the reflector, but not perfectly. If you were to take the lens off an old headlight, the beam pattern would still be pretty scattered, even though the reflector aims it forward. Instead, the lens does the rest of the work, fine-tuning the light rays bounced off the reflector and making the nice pattern. Now, most things are cheaper when you can make and sell lots of them. If you've ever had to get custom parts made up for your car (like brackets, exhaust, or anything), it's usually more expensive than buying something already made. This is because a company (or individual) has to hand-make everything. However, if you're going to be making a few, it's usually cheaper to make a mold. Still, if you want to produce lots, you need to start investing in machinery and setting things up properly to make the part. The same thing applies to light bulbs. While there are many different types of headlight bulbs available on the market (H3, H4, 9003, 9005), they tend to be used in many different vehicles. However, they each have a different plug and mounting system; You can physically put a 9005 bulb into an H4 housing, but you won't be able to use the mounting system to make it stay in, and you won't be able to plug it in to your wiring harness. This is because each different type of bulb has the filament in a different location, and headlights are designed in such a way that the filament of that particular bulb will be in the right spot. If not, then you wouldn't be able to get a consistent beam pattern with a given bulb. However, all bulbs of a given type do have the filament in the same location. This is why you can replace the bulbs in your headlights, and the beam pattern will still look the same. Projectors and HIDs are covered in the following post.
  5. I'll stay out of the "reducing lumens debate" (as that brings up a whole lot of issues I have with people and headlights), but I've used Duplicolour Metalcast spraypaint with good results. About $10 a can up here, and I've used red and smoke. Both turned out quite well... I smoked the lights on my Subaru (tail, fender, and corner), and they held up to a fair bit of abuse. I did a few coats of the smoke, followed by a few coats of clearcoat. In the two years the lights were on the car, I had no issues with fading, chipping, flaking, etc. They also hold up to soap and water, but will come off with 99% isopropanol. The lights are dark enough to cover some damage on the inside, but you can still identify the red, amber, and clear sections in full sun, and I've never had issues with the police. Stay away from VHT Niteshades though, unless you want the lights completely black. Having said all that: Apparently the Duplicolour Metalcast yellow/amber is supposed to be a good match for the classic yellow Euro headlights. I haven't used it personally, but given my experiences with the other colours, I wouldn't hesitate to try it.
  6. I'll definitely be watching this thread to see how the drivetrain works out... I'm in need of a new engine and transmission for my truck, and a motorcycle engine is certainly something I've considered more than once. 1700 lbs is pretty light... Lighter than I would've expected. I've got a 521 with the same 4.88 gears (it's got a J13 too), so if it works for you, then it might be an option for me. Keep up the good work! Oh, and welcome to the forums (although you're already receiving a warm welcome from everyone else :D).
  7. I'm surprised nobody's mentioned it yet, but a ground/power wire upgrade in the engine compartment usually helps a lot. I haven't done one in a while (especially not on a Datsun), but basically: - Increase the gauge of all ground wires. This includes the engine to body, starter to body, and body to negative battery terminal (and transmission to body, if there is one there). 4 gauge or 2 gauge is probably ideal (0/1 gauge may be too heavy to work with). Welding cable is popular, and might be cheaper than "automotive" cable. I've also heard that welding cable is more pliable (IIRC, it has thinner strands, but a lot more of them, than comparable automotive wire). You can also get "fancy" cables from most shops that deal car audio (the specialty shops should have cable that you can purchase by the foot). - Increase the gauge of your power wire, from the battery to the fuse box, and from the battery to the starter. Again, 4 gauge (or larger) is probably a good choice, but remember that you might need to upgrade the size of your main fuse (or fusible link) to match if you intend on drawing a lot more power from the fuse box. - Add extra ground cables. Not totally necessary, but it doesn't hurt. - Use new, heavier ring terminals wherever possible (personally, I use crimp-on terminals, and then add some solder to make sure they won't loosen over time). Replace (or at least clean up) your battery terminals. Use some dielectric grease on your connections after they've been hooked up (dielectric grease is non-conductive and may cause intermittant problems if applied before you tighten everything up). Clean the rust/paint off your attachment points to get a better connection. That's really all there is to it, as far as I recall. You can buy kits online that'll get you all the parts you need, or you can go to your local automotive (or specialty tool) shop and get the cable you need there. Auto shops should have the terminals too. Heatshrink on the terminals is a nice finishing touch, and allows you to coordinate ground and power cables. Should cost less than $100 in parts, and it can be done in an afternoon. On cars this old, simply replacing the cables should get you a better connection, but may as well upgrade them at the same time.
  8. Hey guys, Thanks for the support. Redeye: That looks like a good way of doing it... Nice to know the cab's light enough to put on the wall. Figbuck: I agree about the dollies... I've got both trucks on dollies currently to move them around. If I take the cab and bed off the parts truck, I'll make little dolly frames for them too (I was thinking something pretty much exactly like what you've got your bed on). As for room: Yeah, I know it'll take a bit more than I've currently got, but that's why I'm trying to make room there... I took some measurements of the cab and box the other day, and I think if I stand them up on end, then I'll be able to get them up against the wall and out of the way. I'll probably end up cutting up the parts cab anyway, so it'll be more of a temporary solution. But, I'll be heading out there again in a little bit to try and make some room... I'll start working on storage and a workbench today if I can clear the space.
  9. Alright, good news/bad news time... The good news is that I think I may have figured out how to make some room. The bad news is that it involves cutting up the parts truck. I went out to the garage today to measure the cab and box of the truck, as well as clean a few things up (there's a lot of other stuff in there that needs to be moved or tossed out). There was a stack of plywood blocking access to the parts truck for a long time, so I finally moved it out of the way (a bunch will get used for shelving/workbench) and got a good look at the side of the truck. The upper part of the cab seems decent, but the entire rocker panel on the driver's side is rusted out. I won't be able to get a proper idea of how the rest of it looks until I build some more storage and get some room though, but it's not looking good. There's a bit of rust on the main truck too though, so I may just figure out which one looks more solid, then cut out and replace the rusted sections from the other cab. Building an extended cab is starting to look like a good option too... I could use the extra leg room.
  10. Haha, yeah, I know what you mean... To be honest, I think the "parts" truck might actually be nicer than the project truck. The parts truck had a bit of work done to it (the cab was stripped, had some body work done, and was primed), and it's '72 (so it has the mounting points for the shoulder belt). I've actually considered swapping the cabs over and using the '72 cab on the '70 frame instead. As for what's needed to finish my truck: Nothing really, other than an engine. I bought it as a running vehicle... I actually insured it so I could get it home, and it drove on the streets just fine. Only issue is that it's a manual transmission, and I have trouble using the clutch pedal. I've been toying with the possibility of making some sort of hand-operated clutch, but haven't had the time (or space) to really put anything together to test out yet. I actually bought the parts truck because it was cheap and loaded with spare parts... I think it cost me about $1100 in total to get it back to my place (including ferry costs, truck and trailer rental, and the truck itself). The body was in good shape, it had lots of extra body panels (fenders, doors, and tailgates), a reupholstered seat, a bunch of small parts, and a good windshield (which I managed to crack... speaking of which: Anyone have a line on a good windshield?). Aside from an engine and transmission (and now a windshield), I've got enough parts to complete the main truck, and build the parts truck (and actually, I've got a rotary engine and transmission sitting in my garage, waiting to be installed). But, as for storage: I doubt I could store it anywhere else for the long term (maybe a week or two, at most). I had my Subaru in the yard for a year and a half (first due to insurance issues, then doing modifications), and that won't fly with this one. I think I'll see if I can make it work by putting the cab and box on end, or by stacking the box and cab over each other. Does anyone know the weight of an empty cab or box? I'm wondering if I could lift it with a couple people, or if I'll need a hoist/jacks to pull it off the truck.
  11. Yeah, that's what I'm considering... I wasn't sure if it could damage the body if I store it like that though. If the yards do it though, it might work out...
  12. I "appreciate" the input, but pornstars aren't going to help my space issue... And I don't want to think of the implications if it could help.
  13. Yeah, I'm really hoping to avoid this... It seems like 521's are hard to come by in these parts, so I'd rather not be too brash in getting rid of it. I've got almost enough parts to build a second one, if I wanted to. I guess I may have to decide whether to keep it all, keep what I need and scrap it, or perhaps put some parts back on it and sell it as a rolling chassis to someone who could use it. Then again, I have considered making an extended cab... It might be a good way of using what I can and gaining some extra room in the process (both in the garage and the truck).
  14. Currently, not much... There's 8' between the floor and the ceiling, which is why stacking the bed on top of the cab would be an option. However, the roof uses trusses for support, and they're relatively close together (probably 16-18" between them). I've got a few things stored up there (spare bumpers for my Subaru, some home building supplies), but there's nothing major. However, the ceiling is not tall enough to warrant putting in a hoist or anything to lift the entire truck, as I still wouldn't have enough room under it to do any actual work. I've got a layout of the garage that I could scan and post up, if that helps... I'll have to head out there again and measure out the size of the box and cab and see if I can figure out a better system. My biggest concern is having enough room that I could position the project truck to pull/install the engine, as well as having the room to actually work on the engine. I've got the trucks on casters right now so I can push them around, and most of the open space will serve double duty (for either working on the trucks or doing fabrication work), but there's no way I can do any serious engine work if I've only got 3' of free space around the front of the truck.
  15. Hey guys, After almost two years of mucking about with my Subaru, I've finally gotten it to the point where I feel comfortable daily driving it (or at least that's where it was a few months ago). In any event, I've finally got the time/money to start working on the Datsun again... I still don't really know what I'm doing with it, but that'll come. However, I do know it'll require an engine swap, and I want to start fabricating parts (for both the Subaru and the Datsun), so I'll need some room to work. Now, I'm fortunate enough to have access to a garage. So far, it's kept my Datsuns (the project and the parts truck) dry and safe, and it's the perfect place to put together a small shop for a bit of welding/metal working. Unfortunately, it's small... It's 21' deep and 17' wide. It's big enough to store both trucks in there side-by-side, but it doesn't leave much room to work (there's only about 5' between them when they're right up against the walls). The other unfortunate thing is that the garage in on a rental property... While I'm fortunate enough to have sole possesion of the garage, there's tenants in the house, and I can't take over the backyard for storage. I also can't increase the size of the garage. So, having said all that: I'm trying to figure out how to maximize my space. I'm already planning on putting some shelves and a workbench along one wall... I'll have some shelves set up for storage of small parts in bins, and I'll leave space under the workbench so I can push an engine and transmission out of the way. I'm also planning on making a long shelf over the workbench for things like doors, fenders, and other large parts. However, a lot of the space is simply taken up by the parts truck... Currently, it's just a rolling chassis with a cab and bed on it. The cab and bed are empty (save for body panels and a couple bins of parts), and there's no engine or interior in it. Now, rather than leaving the truck sitting as-is, I was considering taking the cab and bed off the frame and turning them on end, then storing them up against one wall. I haven't measured it out yet, but I assume the cab itself is shorter than it is wide, and the bed sides are only a couple feet tall, which might save me some room. Since there's no engine or transmission, stripping the frame down should be easy, and I might be able to turn it on it's side and keep it against a wall, out of the way. The other possibility would be to pull the cab and box, mount the cab to a large rolling frame, and then attach the box above the cab. That way I could just push the box and cab into a corner, although it'd still have a reasonably large footprint (probably something like 5' x 6', give-or-take). So: Does anyone forsee any issues with storing the cab/box in an upright position (on one end)? They'll both be stripped to the bare essentials (no glass, doors, tailgate, etc), and I could build a rolling wooden frame to support them (each would get it's own frame). I'm more concerned with the rear wall or B-pillars of the cab bending under the weight. Alternately, is there another way I could do this in order to gain a bit more room in the garage? I'd love to move the parts truck outside and store it under a tarp in the yard, but that's not an option for the time being. Any ideas? If worse comes to worst I'll just deal with the lack of space, but I'd like to be able to keep the parts truck and still have enough room to work.
  16. And pictures are... Where? I don't mind wire-spoke wheels... I've considered doing them on my 521 as well. There was a set recently selling here for $150 for all four... They needed some cleaning, but I figure they would've looked good if taken apart and repainted, especially if the rim and hub were one colour, and the spokes another (white spokes with black rim and hub, maybe?). I never ended up buying them, but I've entertained the idea. But, back to the topic at hand... Did you get the new struts/shocks, and did it help? And where are the pictures? :P
  17. Awesome story! I love it when you see something you want, but for whatever reason it doesn't work out... So, you're bummed for a little while, until... Something much better comes along! Call it fate, karma, whatever... I believe that sometimes things happen for a reason, and just cause you don't get something you originally wanted, you might end up with something better. Or maybe I just try to see the up-side of things. But still, the new truck looks great... It even looks like the same colour as the one your dad had. :thumbup: Good on ya.
  18. Did you do it yourself? Because if you paid someone to do it, then it's not very Ratsun... :D I'm not into rat-tails, personally, but you get an A for originality.
  19. I'm lucky enough to have a Momo adapter that I picked up a while ago from a shop that was going out of business, and it looked like it was produced back in the 70's or 80's... I agree, they are just about impossible to find, but like mentioned above, you can get an adapter to fit the adapter to run any wheel you want. I have a Momo to Nardi adapter for my truck, but you could probably get (or make) a Grant to Nardi, or Grant to Momo adapter. Or, if worse comes to worst, find a destroyed wheel with an intact hub, hack off the spokes, and modify the hub to accept the wheel of your choice. It's a bit drastic, but it's a good way of saving a wheel from the scrapyard.
  20. Awesome, thanks for the update... I know some people have used assorted seals with varying luck, but it's good to know that something so readily available will work well. Any chance we could get some pictures to see how it actually comes together?
  21. Wow... So I come on a couple months back, find a link on how to install some R1 carbs, leave Ratsun for a while (due to school and working on my other car), and when I come back there's some three more pages on this topic, people already have R1 carbs installed (and running!), and VintageRice is working on a header... I love to see progress. :D VintageRice: Didn't say this before, but you're welcome for the link. :) It was your comment on doing my own research that lead to it, so you're partially to blame... :P I still haven't gotten my carbs, but I don't have an engine yet either, so it probably doesn't matter so much. I'll make sure to look out for those other, top-secret carbs you may or may not have mentioned... ;)
  22. Mark: Thanks for that... I'd love to put the 4-speed in there, but I need to find one first... Maybe Datzen wants to donate one to the cause... :D I'll be sure to put a blurb on the back window telling the world how nice he is (it's the least I could do for a four-speed auto). I'm pretty sure the column shift is the B/W, like you said, but Datzen mentioned that the 26" autos came in the '71+ 510's, but that's the 3N71B... Not sure if that length also applies to the B/W units, but either someone will chime in, or I'll find out myself when I pick up the engine. I'm getting excited, can't wait to go get the engine and trans and start tearing into it.
  23. Datzen: Thanks for finally taking part... And sure, I'll accept mad research skills, but it's still all your information. :D Thanks for that note on the length of the tranmissions though... I suppose that means the early BW units weren't the short tail (by which I mean 26")? I'm supposed to get two engines and transmissions from a local Ratsuner, one of which is from an early 510 ('68 or '69, I believe) with a column shift, and one from a '72 or so that has a floor shift. The column shift one has fewer kms on it, so I was hoping to install that one. If not, I'll go with the other... I don't mind losing a bit of top speed with the three-speed, as I don't intend on driving it fast, but I want to be able to get on the highway and do about 90 km/h at a decent engine RPM (I'm hoping 2000 or less, although I'll accept 2,500-2,800 RPM). If it can max out at 120, I'd be more than happy. I don't want to lose too much power either... I'm not planning on hauling a lot, but I'd like to be able to put the occasional engine/furniture/brass statue of Buddha in the bed and actually be able to move. I also don't know where the shift points for the autos are... I'll have to see if I can find that and the transmission gearing info before I decide on a final drive ratio.
  24. Little bit outdated, but I'll likely be doing this very swap over the Summer... I've got an early 510 engine and transmission I'm supposed to pick up in the next couple weeks, and a column shift sounds nicer than a floor shift. Or, I could probably put the shifter just about anywhere... Did you end up trying this swap, or did you just not bother?
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