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LSD options for h190


Crashtd420

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I'm curious as to what failed first, and what symptoms you had.  It looks from the ring gear wear patterns that engagement was good, but then something shifted and you had engagement at the inside diameter of the gear and thus damage to the nose of the pinion teeth.  Bearing fail or side gears break or something else?

 

You've also given me an idea of what to use old jean material for.  😀

Edited by iceman510
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4 minutes ago, iceman510 said:

I'm curious as to what failed first, and what symptoms you had.  It looks from the ring gear wear patterns that engagement was good, but then something shifted and you had engagement at the inside diameter of the gear and thus damage to the nose of the pinion teeth.  Bearing fail or side gears break or something else?

 

You've also given me an idea of what to use old jean material for.  😀

In my opinion the spider (pinion) gears and the cross pin failed first.

 

Note how the hole in the casing for the cross pin is elongated. The spider gears were seeing a huge amount of torque, the hole for the pin elongated, bringing the mesh of the spiders too far apart. The loose mesh decreased the spider gear tooth contact, which increased the pressures at those points. Kaboom.  

 

Also my opinion, any open differential that has spider gears of unequal size is prone to failure. The smaller gears always go first. High Cycle Fatigue.

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Side and pinion gears only move when one tire spinning or on a turn. Straight ahead and not moving against each other they equally share the load. The rate of turn is equal to the difference in tire turns between the outside and inside tires in a sharp turn. During a 'burn out' the spiders are turning twice as fast as the side gears while at the same time transmitting power to the spinning wheel. On a 30' turning circle the outside tire turns roughly 2 times more than the inside, a quarter that on a 90 degree turn and on the highway much much less.

 

Look at the wear at the thrust washers.

image.thumb.jpeg.7ddb610bb4f4ac8a469c3eecdec7ad0c.jpeg

 

 

Below, pinion and ring gear teeth do not break like this from driving but from shock loads. Same with the oval pinion hole.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.27d4802e8340464001057bd356412d69.jpeg

 

image.thumb.jpeg.8c687a72bfea70219f2e00b450860054.jpeg

 

 

 

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I had that spider gear pin break in my C200 dually axle and elongate that same hole, but I did not break any teeth/gears, the driveline rang like a bell(clanged) when reversing direction and sometimes shifting into second gear, that 1971 Datsun 521 work truck had a rolling weight of 3400lbs back then, with the trailer it was close to 6000lbs, since then I added a dump bed and the truck weighs 3900lbs now, I have 4.625 gears in it.

 

 

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I never did any burnouts with the h190. With the sr20 though, it would break traction just from accelerating hard in 1st and 2nd. It would routinely break traction with just one wheel, and sometimes traction would bounce back and forth between wheels. Hence the need for beefier parts and the LSD. 

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On 3/18/2024 at 4:38 AM, Wildcat Walker said:

The driveshaft flange flange/yoke on the H233 is much larger than the H190. The WD21 with H233 uses a Spicer 1310 U-joint. I'm not concerned with trying to match any junkyard parts for the driveshaft, as I will be running a custom shaft. There may be a bastard joint out there that you could adapt a 620 shaft to a H233 yoke, just know that you may be shifting the "fusible link" in the driveline to the driveshaft. 

 

 

You can buy a brand new yoke for a 280Z with the T5 and get a 1310 yoke for the transmission. 
Then you would just need the rest of the donor shaft. 

https://zcardepot.com/products/transmission-driveshaft-slip-yoke-input-240z-260z-280z

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43 minutes ago, ]2eDeYe said:

 

 

You can buy a brand new yoke for a 280Z with the T5 and get a 1310 yoke for the transmission. 
Then you would just need the rest of the donor shaft. 

https://zcardepot.com/products/transmission-driveshaft-slip-yoke-input-240z-260z-280z

If you don't feel like scouring wrecking yards, any driveline shop can source all new parts.

 

You could try looking here - https://www.driveshaftparts.com/

 

I've used new CV heads from these guys. They are definitely not OEM parts, but good parts at a great price.

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  • 2 weeks later...

20240330-134549.jpg

 

Pulled a set of 31 spline axles and the LSD goodies from another Xterra to use on the H233 swap for 720 . Also scored a 3.9 gearset from a 92' D21 King Cab 2WD with VG30 and Auto Trans. Interestingly, the 95' D21 King Cab 2WD with VG30 and Manual Trans had 29 spline axles, whereas the 92 had 31 spline. The truck pictured above had been hit from the passenger side right at the wheel and the axle was snapped off at the bearing housing. 

Edited by Wildcat Walker
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