0R4NGE

[shlammed]

Few things to report.

 

BRZ trans fits super well.  There will be no clearancing needed for the body of the transmission.  Depending on final placement of the engine I may need to make some clearance for the clutch release arm.  I didnt have the engine or JBC subframe with me to actually get the engine placed.

 

Here it is jammed all the way back against the firewall, the engine would likely only barely clear the firewall here.  The trans is the same height as the frame rails.  I would need to make a doghouse for the clutch slave if Im able to place the engine this far back.

 

Here it is where I expect a KA/sr swap would normally sit.  Maybe a little bit of extra clearance required but maybe just a good whack with a hammer and it would work too.

 

 

Finished up my tip-over jig and got it all bolted on.

 

It worked.

 

 

Next time I go up I hope to have some prep materials with me to start cleaning the bottom up.  I think Im past the disassembly part now.  Big feelings!

[iceman510]

I should have built one of those jigs to do the bottom of my car before I put the whole interior and glass back in. 😠

 

How are you planning to mount the starter?  Looks like it originally went backward from the bell housing flange.

Edited March 4 by iceman510

[shlammed]

11 minutes ago, iceman510 said:

I should have built one of those jigs to do the bottom of my car before I put the whole interior and glass back in. 😠

 

How are you planning to mount the starter?  Looks like it originally went backward from the bell housing flange.

The starter goes forward on the Honda engine. The Subaru trans starter hole gets blocked off

[iceman510]

11 minutes ago, shlammed said:

The starter goes forward on the Honda engine. The Subaru trans starter hole gets blocked off

 

Ah, I see it now. I didn't pay attention to the adapter fit to the block.

[shlammed]

All good!

This combo Im hoping should work pretty well.

 

As an aside you mentioned before "before you put the glass and interior in"  Mine has full interior and glass and I tipped it.

[shlammed]

Slow going with house renos starting up.

66mm skunk2 came in.  I will be blocking off the emissions hose on top since thats for a relevant Honda and the B series MAP sensor.  Cut it off, tap it for a small plug fitting. Debating if I will run coolant or not.  I will probably taper from the throttle plate to 74mm to match the intake manifold.

Drilled the intake manifold MAP sensor port to 12mm for a Bosch TMap sensor.  Its a pressure/temp combo.  Saves me from welding a separate fitting for air temp and this is 3bar if I ever need that extra 2bars of positive pressure.  (plus I already had it)

[shlammed]

Not a lot to update; doing a hella renovation on the house and I get fully invested in my projects to get them all done.  This one means I am down my ensuite bathroom at home so Im pushing for it.

 

BUT.

Thanks to the internet.

On a semi-local car discussion board I inquired with a person who has a car that Im looking for a part for (brz clutch).  This person has a forced induction FRS and have been through more than one egine.  they did have an extra clutch and were able to get it out for me.  Being that Im up to my ears in house stuff I threw it out there to see if anyone was making the trek from where they are to me about 2.5 hour drive away. 

 

Fortunate to say but now I have a new-to-me OEM clutch for my swap that will at least get me going if not more.   Thanks to all who were involved.

 

This is a budget build at the end of the day and things like this really keep me progressing.

Edited April 19 by shlammed

[shlammed]

Bathroom renos done.

 

Going to the cottage for a friends weekend thats calling for a bunch of rain.  Hopefully I will get some time to work on the chassis.  I have accumulated the epoxy primer, prep materials, and shortly should have the raptor liner for the underside of the car.

 

Also going to remove the battery tray since I doubt I will be able to fit it with the header there.

 

Anyone used a honda half rad jammed to one side of the opening and their intercooler vertical on the other side in these cars?  Not a lot of room for proper cooler air flow and stacking coolers vs side by side coolers could be an interesting thought.

[shlammed]

Very not ORNGE in part of the car now.

 

Managed to prep the driver wheel well area this weekend while still enjoying some time at the cottage.  Also removed the battery tray.

Hope to get some more time soon to do the other corner once I weld up the cut from the battery tray where the bump came out.  Heading up this coming weekend again so I may be able to do this again.

 

I took the engine up to the car with the JBC xmember and it looks like it should all fit fairly easily if I get an oil pump from a 2.0

 

 

 

 

[shlammed]

What thickness is the stock metal floor?

[shlammed]

Passenger corner scraped of coatings to metal and shot with some epoxy primer.

 

Hoping to have the rest of the underside and engine bay done this summer then scuff it up and spray some raptor liner on the underside and wheel wells.  Bay will get some BMW U94 Fire orange.

 

 

 

[shlammed]

Ordered some cheapo used S13 coilovers from ebay that should also allow me to run caster like specified in the JBC manual.  that will at least get me rolling and driving but I have very low expectations for the ride quality out of them straight out of the box.   

 

It will let me get focused on other things for now but the ultimate goal is to run some bilstiens all around.  maybe I can use these coilovers with good strut/shock inserts and quality springs to make these into a budget coilover system with separate spring preload from height adjustment

 

[shlammed]

I have a set of 225/45/15 scrubs coming my way to see what I can do to fit them.  I dont have one of those fancy wheel fitment jigs but that would be cool, i should try to find one.

[shlammed]

Was able to get the front ARP's pressed in.  Did a short welding job in trade for the studs.

A friend pressed them in for me.

The internet delivers again.  Figuratively and literally.  Fortunately I now have some tires to make work in a 225/45/15.   Ive talked to a handful of people who have made big wheels fit and it seems like I should be able to do this.

Confirmed fit with minimal mods:
205/50/15's on both 15x7.5 et0 and 15x8 +22.  Should be able to fit it no problem with some math lol.  Looks like a 15x9 with offset of +10 to +15 range will be the sweetness if I can find something in that spec. Or step down to an 8 and have a bit more freedom but have to account for more tire flex.

[shlammed]

More work on the resto part of the restomod this weekend.

Will do the trunk area and the wheel wells shortly then I can put the Raptor coat on, tip it back over and get it on all 4.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Cool rotisserie. Looks sort of Trojan Horse-ish.

 

If you can get the car outside, I'd spray the trunk arear with some purple power, then pressure wash it. That stuff is caustic and will remove much of the grime, getting it ready for undercoating.

[shlammed]

The trunk area just looks dirty compared to the bottom I’ve painted. Not a whole lot of grime there, just will wire wheel it off. 
 

the wood roll over jig doesn’t really give a lot of stiffness front/rear so I won’t be rolling it outside until I have it back on the ground. 
 

im debating making a caster jig to roll it around. Anyone have a design for a shop jig for a 510? Not sure if there is a way to mount them and let me assemble the car.  Thinking of this when my wife asked me when I’m painting the remainder of the car. 

[Rustbin]

I built a simple cart out of 4x4s that I had around, this is the only picture I have of it before I put the car on it. The corners have angle brackets to keep them aligned and there are two diagonals to keep it square. I had thought of building supports to attach to the suspension points but the weather was turning and I was in a hurry.

 

 

 

 

It must be nice to just have to clean and paint without having to rebuild the body.

 

[Rustbin]

I just went out and got a couple shots of how its supported, I did put some wood screws in to keep it stable.

 

 

 

The ropes make it much easier to move around.

 

[shlammed]

Yeah I’m super fortunate the car is in good shape. 
 

 

I was thinking about making a steel cart that would have a back to back L angle that would through bolt on the pinch weld but that would probably get in the way of paint. 

[Rustbin]

If you slipped a pipe over the pin for the rear cross member and built a frame that bolts on in place of the front engine mount, then dropped some legs to your L angle, then connected them with cross pieces and a diagonal, it should support the body without interfering with the paint. You could do the undercoating while it's on the rollover jig, then mount it to your cart for painting. The first picture is of the pin locator jig I made, the second is the jig I made to locate the front cross member points when I replace the front frame rails, to give you an idea of what I am suggesting.

 

       

[shlammed]

That is a great idea and would work great for paint. 
 

I was going to build this partially so I could assemble the car without a lift when I’m done with the turn over jig. 

 

The subframes would need to be able to be installed with the cart on it.

Edited August 13 by shlammed

[shlammed]

pressed bearings back in on one of my rear arms... there is a tight feeling spot in the rotation of the axle stub.... im guessing thats not normal?  every rotation it feels tight in the same spot.

 

the bearings are not new.

Edited August 16 by shlammed

[iceman510]

Everything in squarely?  

 

I need to do that job this winter on my race car.  

[edekalil]

On 3/4/2024 at 8:49 AM, shlammed said:

Few things to report.

 

BRZ trans fits super well.  There will be no clearancing needed for the body of the transmission.  Depending on final placement of the engine I may need to make some clearance for the clutch release arm.  I didnt have the engine or JBC subframe with me to actually get the engine placed.

 

Here it is jammed all the way back against the firewall, the engine would likely only barely clear the firewall here.  The trans is the same height as the frame rails.  I would need to make a doghouse for the clutch slave if Im able to place the engine this far back.

 

Here it is where I expect a KA/sr swap would normally sit.  Maybe a little bit of extra clearance required but maybe just a good whack with a hammer and it would work too.

 

 

Finished up my tip-over jig and got it all bolted on.

 

It worked.

 

 

Next time I go up I hope to have some prep materials with me to start cleaning the bottom up.  I think Im past the disassembly part now.  Big feelings!

That is one hell of an idea for a rolltisserie.