1975 620 Longbed "Shelley"

[Jskinny]

 

Got the new slave cylinder installed & bled... i think. It feels like there is less resistance and the clutch engages much closer to the forward end of the pedal stroke. I bled it a bunch, and got the steady stream of fluid. It works fine, just feels a bit more spongy. Is there anything else I should look at?

 

Went for a quick spin and the speedometer/odometer actually work now. 

 

 

[Jskinny]

Gas gauge was about a needle width below E when I got to work, so on the way back I filled up. These washington gas prices are lame. But hey, confirmed my fuel tank is a sizable upgrade...

 

I also got a temp sender but I'm not sure how it would attach. I'm assuming the existing nut would hold it in place, but the connection itself is different. The one that is currently reading just above cold when fully warmed up is connected via a slide on spade terminal.

Do i need to get a new connector for the new sender?

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

What terminal is on the existing temp sender? Blade?

 

http://www.vintageconnections.com/

 

Search for terminal, not connector. Connectors are the plastic housing that hold the terminals.

[banzai510(hainz)]

those hex nuts that hold the sender in .if not carefull its going to crack the housing PB Blaster that fucker.

 

I usually have a spare USED whole housing with the sender and swap that in.

[Jskinny]

On 7/20/2023 at 10:22 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

What terminal is on the existing temp sender? Blade?

 

http://www.vintageconnections.com/

 

Search for terminal, not connector. Connectors are the plastic housing that hold the terminals.

This looks like a good resource, thanks!

[Jskinny]

On 7/21/2023 at 12:37 PM, banzai510(hainz) said:

those hex nuts that hold the sender in .if not carefull its going to crack the housing PB Blaster that fucker.

 

I usually have a spare USED whole housing with the sender and swap that in.

I don't think I have a housing... it's just the sender and the retaining nut. Unless you mean the thermostat housing?

[banzai510(hainz)]

I went to remove a sender and the lower housing cracked.

 

I had a spare and used that then leater installed a new housing and sender when I redid the motor.

[Jskinny]

6 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I went to remove a sender and the lower housing cracked.

 

I had a spare and used that then leater installed a new housing and sender when I redid the motor.

 

Hmm, the sender seemed to come out pretty easy on mine, didn't take it all the way out since I didn't want to have coolant/water drain all over the place. 

 

Just need to get around to measuring the size of the sender terminal and get some ordered. 

 

[Jskinny]

Got the new temp sender in - but after my 30ish min commute the temp gauge was still sitting in the cold zone, probably the same spot as before. 

 

Fuel gauge has only ever come up to about halfway when full, which from what I've read is pointing to a problem with the voltage regulator at the gauge (since both fuel and temp aren't working properly). 

 

Going to pull out the gauge cluster assembly, try cleaning the contacts and see if that works... anything I should be aware of when doing this?

 

[Jskinny]

Did some cleaning of the engine bay today. Looks much better overall.

 

 

 

Cleaned the spark plug wires, now they look brand new.

 

Skipped most of the engine parts, mainly waiting to take the valve cover off completely and repaint it, will be easier to get to then.

 

Unfortunately my daily is out of commission until some parts come in on wednesday, so I'll be commuting in this for the week. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

whats thaT red WIRE GOING AROUND T THE BACK TO THE PASSENGER SIDE?

[datzenmike]

Power to the fuel pump from the ignition side of the coil?

 

Fuel filter should be on the suction side of the electric pump. It protects the pump from debris but more importantly that filter is not designed to hold any pressure.

[Jskinny]

Yeah it's power to the fuel pump. 

 

Haven't noticed any leaks, but good to know, I'll add that to my list. 

There is another filter between the tank and the fuel pump, so the pump is probably fine for now. At least better off compared to just a filter after the pump. 

[Jskinny]

Got a few things done.

 

Got the wheels blasted:

 

Uncovered some wheel size numbers, thought I'd make note of them in case they are useful in the future. Then painted them. 

 

 

And put them back on the truck:

 

 

And put the caps on. Really happy with the results.

About a year ago:

 

And now:

 

I also decided to enter it into the local car show at the Skagit fairgrounds.

 

There was a pretty good turnout:

 

 

My personal favorite:

 

I also removed the aftermarket rear bumper - looks a bit cleaner to me.

 

And somehow I won the People's choice award. Was pretty unexpected since there were some seriously nice builds.

 

[Jskinny]

I'm also working on some replacement kick panels. I cut them out of 1/8" acrylic, just need to adjust some edges for them to fit nicely, then drill the mounting holes.

 

Also realized I was missing the strike plate for the glovebox. Thought about designing one but wanted it in time for the car show, so i just ordered an original off ebay. unfortunately it arrived after we got back but I might attempt to design one and get one made to see how they compare.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Oh man, that '59 Chevy looks just like one I sold a few years ago. I should never have sold that truck.

 

Nice job on the trophy!

[]2eDeYe]

Congrats on the peoples choice. 

[datzenmike]

Amen. The 620 is my favorite truck. 4 1/2J x 14 was the standard size 620 rim though the later '78-'79 rim was lightly different to clear the disc brake caliper.

[hobospyder]

You going to this one saturday?Saturday? Maybe sunday....

 

Definitely Sunday for the car show. Here is a link

 

https://www.skagit.edu/auto-expo/?fbclid=IwAR0YbvX6a0bUgdlF5oY_S6M3NHKw3Yu1y63erWyy4SaUuVJky2ApLU3akUs

[Jskinny]

3 hours ago, hobospyder said:

You going to this one saturday?Saturday? Maybe sunday....

 

Definitely Sunday for the car show. Here is a link

 

https://www.skagit.edu/auto-expo/?fbclid=IwAR0YbvX6a0bUgdlF5oY_S6M3NHKw3Yu1y63erWyy4SaUuVJky2ApLU3akUs

Haha not planning on this one.

 

 

On 9/27/2023 at 6:20 AM, datzenmike said:

Amen. The 620 is my favorite truck. 4 1/2J x 14 was the standard size 620 rim though the later '78-'79 rim was lightly different to clear the disc brake caliper.

Yeah I remember Mike bluehands mentioned that in one of his videos.

 

[Jskinny]

When I went to leave the skagit car show, the truck started pretty slowly. It seemed to crank fine so I assume it's not the starter, but when it turned over initially it was a very slow, "clunky?" rpm until it slowly came up to the typical idle speed...

I'll try to get a video or something of what it sounds like in the next little bit here.

 

Another thing that has popped up is a clattering sound, usually most noticeable when idling. Might need to adjust the valves or maybe something to do with the timing chain tensioner...? 

 

 

 

[hobospyder]

Start with valves and timing and then move on to chain tensioner. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

If this noise just started, it could be that the rubber face of the chain tensioner ground or broke off, and the chain is not now riding on metal. This is common with old tensioners (and guides) as the hot oil hardens the rubber over time making it brittle.

 

EDIT - NOW riding on metal

Edited October 5, 2023 by Stoffregen Motorsports

[Jskinny]

Here's another clip, lots of noise along the entire valve cover, not just one side from what I heard.

 

Planning to work on it tonight, will see if I can check the tensioner... I assume the timing cover has to come off the front of the block though for that?

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

Rocker may have come off.

Lock nut on adjuster may have loosened

 

There's no way the tensioner can pop out unless the cam sprocket is removed and lots of slack introduced.