1975 620 Longbed "Shelley"

[Jskinny]

2 hours ago, hobospyder said:

Come get it if skinny doesnt

 

Thanks for the offer hobo, a 5 speed swap will be a spring project more than likely though. 

 

Have at it draker. 👍

 

 

 

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

77-'79 S10 200sx has them for the standard transmission and optional on the '79 2dr. hatchback A10 HL510.

 

Also on the '80- A10 HL510 (all models) in Z series flavor and on the '77- B210 in A series flavor.

 

Adequate for an L20B/Z20 but not a Z car

These are the dogleg options, correct? Pretty sure I've seen additional models on some of the other 5 speed threads. Don't really have a preference, just want something that lowers rpms at higher speeds without sacrificing too much low end torque (eg getting a longer? ratio diff). 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Be honest I dig this truck!!!!!!!the red hood grew on me!!!!!!!!

put a huge NGK decal on hood

https://www.ebay.com/itm/384755431571?hash=item599535f893:g:kLgAAOSwiThiGm8D&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8JapEUpQs5BFkxIB4vG3qNmp3rQ83P7AumqWL89nFLv8Fw9T0GlPiroKtJdKvymWr8N5TjDsMhPmkNlJdKyL6Y6Z1cckUqKJ4Kajv3ukr8y6JCHmPue%2BDnX%2FD6nalAtkKWS0Z5HZza4RJo2%2BmZGaxKM4Gtdw4w9ibR2wb5up2a6U%2FRr7Czm%2FblFaeFh%2Fy021xn2U%2Fd60HU3AJURCBziuzXruHmHgUevTotwvgaH8wupgXN1qt0BCC2uIid5Ku1OojRS8pvRti32DqvtGSlze%2BQwTOftUnm%2F5Z1Paq9EqMbljGuJ%2B55EL3pzPiWDWzhIavA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7yyl-WQYQ

Edited November 17, 2022 by banzai510(hainz)

[Jskinny]

Was browsing the ads thread and i think this confirms the color i'll be going with for my wheels. Was debating whether to do gloss black or gloss red but i think on my truck this will look 👌.

 

On 10/25/2022 at 12:13 PM, carterb said:

^^  Looks awesome!

 

While we are on the subject of 620's

 

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-620-pickup-7/

 

 

 

57 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Be honest I dig this truck!!!!!!!the red hood grew on me!!!!!!!!

put a huge NGK decal on hood

Haha, thanks! Yeah I have a white hood but honestly the red one is better. I did get an NGK sticker, just have to decide where to put it. 

[datzenmike]

3 hours ago, Jskinny said:

 

These are the dogleg options, correct? Pretty sure I've seen additional models on some of the other 5 speed threads. Don't really have a preference, just want something that lowers rpms at higher speeds without sacrificing too much low end torque (eg getting a longer? ratio diff). 

 

The later 210 had an even smaller A series optional FS5W60L through '79 that was a dogleg. Dogleg merely refers to the reverse above first shift pattern. The '80 and on 210 had an optional FS5W60A that was a regular H pattern shift. These won't fit an L series engine and it would quickly eat them.

 

R  2  4

NNNN

1  3  5

 

The dogleg is an advantage racing where first is seldom used and 4th and 5th is a straight up or down shift. Around town where getting into second often needs to be done 'smartly' the up over and up to second gets no praise. Like anything you can get used to it.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

6 hours ago, Jskinny said:

 

Thanks for the offer hobo, a 5 speed swap will be a spring project more than likely though. 

 

Have at it draker. 👍

 

 

 

These are the dogleg options, correct? Pretty sure I've seen additional models on some of the other 5 speed threads. Don't really have a preference, just want something that lowers rpms at higher speeds without sacrificing too much low end torque (eg getting a longer? ratio diff). 

I don't know that I would want to install a dogleg 5 speed in your truck. They weren't the strongest transmissions.

 

Refresh my memory guys, did the 620 come stock with the Z car style 4spd or the 510 style 4 spd with the removable oil pan? If the former, then a 280Z 5 speed will bolt right in.

[Jskinny]

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Like anything you can get used to it.

Exactly 👍

 

20 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I don't know that I would want to install a dogleg 5 speed in your truck. They weren't the strongest transmissions.

Good to know, and it sounds like they wouldn't fit well if at all. 

 

So in theory, when I'm looking for one, if it's the dogleg style it's safe to say just move on for my application... 

 

There's probably a thread already that goes in depth for this, but what's a good price point to look for nowadays? I saw one out of a 78 or 79 620 listed a while back for either 6 or 800$, since it seemed pretty steep i didn't pursue that option. 

 

 

[datzenmike]

The '73 620 with the L16 engine had the F4W63 almost exactly the same as the 510 wagon. It was 26" long with a two part case and removable oil pan on the bottom.

 

The '74 and on 620 used the F4W71B 4 speed used on the earlier '72 and on 240/260/280z car.

 

The '77 and on 620s were available with an optional FS5W71B 5 speed same as used on the '77 and on 280z car.

 

Both the 4 and 5 speed 71Bs were 31.5" long with a center steel adapter that held the gears, sandwiched between a front and rear aluminum case. Strong enough for a 6 cylinder 150 hp car.

 

If you drive primarily in town and rarely on the highway a 5 speed is a waste of time.

If you do a lot of highway driving a 5 speed might give slightly better mileage by reducing cruise speed RPMs.

If you think a 5 speed is faster, well then it's also a waste of time to get one.

If you think 5 speeds are cool well, I can't argue with that.

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I thought I remembered seeing a square oil pan on a 620 trans. Thanks for clearing that up.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I don't know what they go for now days, but considering everyone wants the 280ZX trans instead (because of the "close" ratio) the regular 280Z trans should be plentiful.

 

I used to pay $100-$300 for them in good condition.

[datzenmike]

Close ratio is fine, gears all nice and minimal RPM drop on shifts, what I don't like is the 25.5% drop into 5th.

 

My wide ratio is.................. 43% 34% 26.5% 19% nice even drops that reduce as you go up in gears.

The ZX close ratios are..... 39% 29.5% 23.5% 25.5% 

[datzenmike]

1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I thought I remembered seeing a square oil pan on a 620 trans. Thanks for clearing that up.

 

Earliest 620 was March '72 but they get grouped in with the '73 model years. Usually the changeover is Aug/Sept back then.

[Jskinny]

Great info guys, much appreciated!

 

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

If you drive primarily in town and rarely on the highway a 5 speed is a waste of time.

If you do a lot of highway driving a 5 speed might give slightly better mileage by reducing cruise speed RPMs.

If you think a 5 speed is faster, well then it's also a waste of time to get one.

If you think 5 speeds are cool well, I can't argue with that.

1. I do about 50/50

2. Don't care too much about mileage, other than making sure It's not running overly rich, but sound mainly. And less RPMs = less stress to the drivetrain overall

3. Not worried about speed - I'm happy to cruise low (kind of) and slow. Kind of like life.

4. Yeppers

 

2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I don't know what they go for now days, but considering everyone wants the 280ZX trans instead (because of the "close" ratio) the regular 280Z trans should be plentiful.

So would a wide ratio trans be better than a close ratio paired with a stock l20b since they don't make heaps of power anyway? I was reading that typically wide ratio is used on heavier vehicles or powertrains with a longer torque curve so perhaps the power to weight ratio would come into play there - the 620's not super heavy but when you compare the hp/torque per pound it seems like it would be similar to a newer truck. just speculating though. 

 

[datzenmike]

Wide ratio spreads the distance between first and fourth effectively giving you more torque on take offs. Much needed if it's a work truck and carrying loads. If just a commuter then a mid ratio is better. There are no close ratio 4 speeds leaving only the close ratio 5 speed from a later non turbo 280zx. And the 5th over drive is so high it is hardly usable on a heavy truck.

 

That said, they will all work, just some are a better choice for what you want. 

[Jskinny]

Been a while, the good weather is finally back. 

 

Got some new tires, and replaced the original bias ply spare. I was wondering if there was a way to tell what year the old one was from - yeah I know I can probably google it but hey extra photos are fun. These were the only numbers I could find apart from the tire size.

 

Here's some photos from recently:

 

One thing I'd like to figure out is if there is a way to get the fuel gauge to read properly. This is what it reads when the pump shuts off - could I assume the float is just getting stuck?

[thisismatt]

There should be a DOT code for any tire after 71, with the last digits used for the date.  Before 2000 it was only 3 digits with two corresponding to the week, and one corresponding to the year as it was assumed tires wouldn't be used more than 10 years.  After 2000 it went to the 4 digit code with two for the week and two for the year.  If it's only the spare you're talking about, it's possible it could be a pre-71 tire and have no date code.

[Jskinny]

Got the better carb arm thing, gas pedal feels much better. Might need a bit more fine tuning but overall I like it better.

I keep forgetting how to add imgur photos - for future me's reference - Get share links > BBCode (Forums) > remove before and after link.

[Jskinny]

Need to get a few gaskets, why not get a whole set? But why would there be such a big price difference between the 2?? Only seems to be a minor increase in selection for the 200$ set. Kind of sketched out by the apex set if its that cheap...

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

Up to Dec. '77 all 620 gas tanks were 11 7/8 US gallons, after, that the King Cab was 14.1 US gallons.

 

The fuel pump has nothing to do with the gas gauge. Pull the Yellow send wire off the tank and ground it with the key on and the gauge should move to FULL. If it does then the gauge is fine and the sender must be sticking. But first....

 

 

 

Is this just after shutting the ignition off?? When warmed up the gauge should read right in the middle of that 'run range'. Again pull the temperature sender wire off the sender on the thermostat housing and ground it. The temp gauge should go to full hot.

 

If either gauge does not go to full hot or full, the gauge volt regulator for the gauges may be bad. I would do the temperature gauge first as it's the easiest to get to.

[banzai510(hainz)]

200 is too much.

 

depends on what is really needed. alot is not used.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

10 hours ago, Jskinny said:

Need to get a few gaskets, why not get a whole set? But why would there be such a big price difference between the 2?? Only seems to be a minor increase in selection for the 200$ set. Kind of sketched out by the apex set if its that cheap...

 

 

 

Those blue paper gaskets for the front cover are the first sign of crap. The oil pan gasket looks to be more paper than cork. Another bad sign.

[Jskinny]

14 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Up to Dec. '77 all 620 gas tanks were 11 7/8 US gallons, after, that the King Cab was 14.1 US gallons.

I don't have the stock fuel tank, its a box that was added at some point, measures 12x12x36". Got an easily accessible drain plug too.

 

 

 

 

15 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Is this just after shutting the ignition off?? When warmed up the gauge should read right in the middle of that 'run range'. Again pull the temperature sender wire off the sender on the thermostat housing and ground it. The temp gauge should go to full hot.

 

The previous owner said he didnt have the right temp sensor, so thats why the temp barely creeps past the line second from the left - in the photo i took of the gauge, that's what it reads after i've been driving around for a while, fully warmed up. So I grounded the connector to the temp sensor and sure enough, the gauge read hot. New temp sensor needed!

 

 

7 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Those blue paper gaskets for the front cover are the first sign of crap. The oil pan gasket looks to be more paper than cork. Another bad sign.

Good to know, I'll probably just go with fel-pro, seems to be a good brand...

[Jskinny]

Got a few wiring questions - 

 

There's a ground wire coming from the battery that has been cut for whatever reason - I'm thinking the wire i'm holding and the bit with yellow tape on it should be connected, but as I'm not confident with electrical/wiring i haven't yet.

 

 

In the wiring diagram, the yellow taped off wire connects to:

1. Side flasher, R.H (maybe left, too. might have missed that)

2. Tank unit gauge (maybe contributing to the fuel gauge problem?)

3. Rear Combo lamp RH, turn 

4. Rear Combo lamp LH, turn

5. Beam (on the guage cluster)

6. Turn signal

7. Wiper washer switch

8. Heater motor

9. Wiper motor

 

Should I just connect the two and see if that fixes anything? 

[datzenmike]

When you reconnect that wire first slip on a sheath of heat shrink tubing and use a suitable size crimp on connection. If it has a plastic cover I would cut it off and solder it also. Then slide the heat shrink tubing in place and heat it for a nice professional looking connection. This wire should ground the body sheet metal and may fix your other electrical problems.

[Jskinny]

No issues so far after connecting the ground wire. 

 

I pulled the speedo cable out and sure enough it snapped about 8 inches from the transmission side.

 

Replaced it with a new one and got the odometer to move for the first time since I've had this truck.

 

While I was working on the speedo cable, I noticed a slow drip from the slave cylinder, and then when I pressed the clutch pedal.... straight to the floor. Checked the master cylinder and it was completely empty. Refilled for now, it was still wet in the bottom so I don't think it was empty for too long...

Not sure what would have caused this to leak, since I've driven it all over the place since I brought it home, but for some reason now it decided to go. Maybe since I had the front end jacked up for a day?

They are cheap enough to replace, so I'm just going to get a new one to fix the leak. Probably Beck Arnley or Luk brand - any preferences here?

 

[datzenmike]

This is likely the low point on the speedometer cable and if the outer sheath is damaged water will collect there. Imagine what happens when it freezes.

 

Continual use seems to keep these things in shape. Seen this with brake cylinders when they sit for a long time. You start using them and suddenly they leak.