Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 23, 2023 Report Share Posted January 23, 2023 @SupDoc - Chrome platers in Lodi? I have been using a couple shops in Sac, but they are always months out on their schedule. How long was the wait for the shop in Lodi? Quote Link to comment
SupDoc Posted January 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2023 12 hours ago, KELMO said: I forgot to ask this question when I saw the T3 GTX2 LCA's installed. Did you reuse the original washers where the LCA attaches to the X member? I reused them on the wagon but a) it looks a bit goofy, and b) depending on who responds to your email questions there, you can either get detailed information or very little information. Also, thanks for posting that pic of the Futofab adjuster. I was on their site recently and did not see it. Time to reinvestigate that. When I bought the car from the previous owner, it didn't have the stock LCA's. He already had Troy Ermish do a lot of work to the car to get it road-worthy, including installing these adjustable LCA's with heim joints. When I got the LCA's from T3, I noticed that they were set up the same way as Ermish...no washers. Although, both versions do have stepped bushings that go into each side of the heim joint. FYI, Futofab must have a picture of an older version of the adjuster on their website. The one they sent me is much cooler looking, with their name engraved on the outside. Quote Link to comment
SupDoc Posted January 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2023 12 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: @SupDoc - Chrome platers in Lodi? I have been using a couple shops in Sac, but they are always months out on their schedule. How long was the wait for the shop in Lodi? If I remember correctly, San Joaquin Chrome (in Lodi) took around 2 months to plate those two light housings. I got the impression that it would have taken longer, if they had been larger/more complicated parts. 1 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted January 24, 2023 Report Share Posted January 24, 2023 Thanks for the pic. Looks like the inner washer is still being used. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 24, 2023 Report Share Posted January 24, 2023 11 hours ago, SupDoc said: If I remember correctly, San Joaquin Chrome (in Lodi) took around 2 months to plate those two light housings. I got the impression that it would have taken longer, if they had been larger/more complicated parts. Worth a shot. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
SupDoc Posted February 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2023 Installed two 9" electric Spal fans on my Koyorad. Had to perform Datzenmike's fan-clutchectomy modification to make enough room. Ended up with about 1/4" of clearance. When those fans kick on, the temp drops amazingly fast. I almost think I could get away with just one fan, but we'll have to see how it behaves during the hot summer months. 1 Quote Link to comment
SupDoc Posted March 6, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2023 I changed the oil for the first time since owning this car. Used Nissan brand oil/fuel filters. Installed a reproduction engine ID plate, since the original was missing. I highly recommend "control_decals" on Ebay, for anyone that is looking for one. Installed Machinespeed billet glove box knob and special edition glove box emblem. 2 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted March 6, 2023 Report Share Posted March 6, 2023 Curious about where you sourced the filters. The part #'s are close...16400-H8501 & 15208-W1103 are what I use. Thanks, now I gotta rivet my engine tag in so I can keep up with the cool kids. The glove box parts look awesome. Quote Link to comment
SupDoc Posted March 6, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2023 3 hours ago, KELMO said: Curious about where you sourced the filters. The part #'s are close...16400-H8501 & 15208-W1103 are what I use. Thanks, now I gotta rivet my engine tag in so I can keep up with the cool kids. The glove box parts look awesome. I bought the filters from Z Car Depot. They have a pretty good selection of parts for all Datsun vehicles, not just the Z. As much as possible, I try to buy from vendors, like them, that are supporting the Datsun community. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 6, 2023 Report Share Posted March 6, 2023 It would be neat if the engine ID tags were sold with different displacement and horsepower. Quote Link to comment
SupDoc Posted March 7, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2023 20 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: It would be neat if the engine ID tags were sold with different displacement and horsepower. They can customize the tag however you want, then send you a drawing of it for your approval, before making the actual product. It's hard to see in my picture, but they can also engrave it with your VIN and engine number. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 7, 2023 Report Share Posted March 7, 2023 Cool. I wonder how far you could take that. Honestly, my '79 620 came with a 2300 and dual carbs. Quote Link to comment
DARIN 510 Posted March 8, 2023 Report Share Posted March 8, 2023 On 3/5/2023 at 4:35 PM, KELMO said: Curious about where you sourced the filters. The part #'s are close...16400-H8501 & 15208-W1103 are what I use. Thanks, now I gotta rivet my engine tag in so I can keep up with the cool kids. The glove box parts look awesome. I think that is the current updated part number. I looked it up. This is for a 280zx. The fuel filter is for a Z. Your part number is for a 510,1200 etc. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 8, 2023 Report Share Posted March 8, 2023 Dodge 318, chevy 305 and Ford IL six 4.9 liter will also work. Billions sold, are universal and cheap, and often larger than the stock filter. Quote Link to comment
SupDoc Posted April 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2023 The original center console was so jacked up from previous owners trying to jam aftermarket stereos into it, that I decided to throw it away and start fresh. I installed one of the Gilson double-DIN consoles with a JVC head unit... 3 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted April 10, 2023 Report Share Posted April 10, 2023 That looks good. I especially like the 1200 emblem for the screen pic. Quote Link to comment
SupDoc Posted May 6, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2023 Why do I constantly feel like I'm paying for the sins of the previous owners. Today, after pulling the flywheel off the L20B, that I'm going to swap into the 510, I found this silicone mess. In all that is holy, if you've gone through the trouble of getting access to the leaking rear main seal, why wouldn't you just replace it the right way. By the way, can someone verify from the picture, is this the actual end of the crankshaft, or is this the cap that goes between the crankshaft and the flywheel that some of them have? This engine had so much oil and grime on it, from the leaking seal, that I had to do some serious degreasing. If you have a death wish, you can use straight up gasoline in a spray bottle, like me. Does a pretty good job. No too bad, but I still need to do a couple more rounds before it's ready for paint. Picture that someone took of my car last weekend, at the Delta Cars & Coffee... 3 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 7, 2023 Report Share Posted May 7, 2023 Yeah, people usually suck. The piece on the end of the crank was used only on automatic trans cars/trucks, and I'm 99% sure it has a male protrusion sticking out of the middle. Nice looking car. 1 Quote Link to comment
DHale_510 Posted May 7, 2023 Report Share Posted May 7, 2023 The little plate was for reinforcing the flex plate on automatic transmission cars. It also is good to use with an aluminum flywheel to keep the bolts from digging into the aluminum. It goes between the bolts and the flex plate or flywheel, not under. The raised part indexes into the flexplate but would not fit under a flywheel well. It seems to have been jammed into the seal here, likely a big part of the leak and goop fix... Dennis 1 Quote Link to comment
shlammed Posted May 8, 2023 Report Share Posted May 8, 2023 The automatic one from my auto car was pretty thick... i wouldnt want to use it under a flywheel. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 8, 2023 Report Share Posted May 8, 2023 Dennis was saying to use it to protect the aluminum flywheel from the bolts, so it would go on after the flywheel, before the bolts went in. 2 Quote Link to comment
SupDoc Posted June 5, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2023 I used the old woodscrews-in-the-seal trick, to remove it. Then, installed the new one with the Kyusha Speed seal installer tool. I also removed the rear cap and installed new side seals (not pictured)... 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 5, 2023 Report Share Posted June 5, 2023 If I were doing that job, and I had the engine on a stand, I would have taken the time to remove the rear main cap and replaced the side seals too. Quote Link to comment
iceman510 Posted June 6, 2023 Report Share Posted June 6, 2023 23 hours ago, SupDoc said: I also removed the rear cap and installed new side seals (not pictured)... Matt- he mentioned that he did do that. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 6, 2023 Report Share Posted June 6, 2023 Oops. Quote Link to comment
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