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About DHale_510

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  • Birthday 09/06/1947

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  • Location
    Nampa, Idaho
  • Cars
    11 Datsuns; 8 510s, 2 Zs, 1 1200
  1. DHale_510

    L20b, Weber 32/36, 93 Octane Timing Help

    Also the distributors will wear out. The vacuum advance plates are particularly prone to sticking, so the actual advance can vary widely, causing very carburetor fault like effects. You can wiggle it by hand to see if it sticks or you can look at the timing with a light. All the movements need to be smooth. The L20b is more timing sensitive than the smaller motors, I found that knock occurred first at 5000 rpm, far above the audible range for "ping". It also liked much slower advance curves than the stock distributors were set for, so there was power in re-curving to a slower rate, otherwise you just have to live with retarded maximum timing settings, like 22* maximum, which is optimum at the 3500rpm or so that the distributor maxes out at. That overadvanced ignition may feel like a misfire or stutter. It is a bad thing. Dennis
  2. DHale_510

    Shock absorbers

    The 280ZX rear shocks also hold the springs. They have much larger and stronger mounts than a 510, and they are longer. I guess it really depends on how much fabrication you want to do, but they are not a simple fit. Dennis
  3. DHale_510

    280zx struts

    I have had brake hoses that deteriorate internally and act as sort of a check valve to cause this problem. Dennis
  4. DHale_510

    Datsun 411 supercharge???

    Back in the day my buddy and I hopped up a few BMC A series motors in a Sprite. We never supercharged one, but did manage to double the power with a little help from Mr DeLong and adding compression and so on. Lifetimes of the motors was dramatically reduced, like about a year of street driving. Others did try the Judson superchargers with almost identical power gains and durability losses. Then we started using bigger engines to the same power with greater durability. My favorite combination was a Datsun R16 roadster motor in a Bugeye Sprite. It was a bolt in after the heater was removed. BMC mounts were interchangeable. Now I would consider a R20 forklift conversion.... I think some guys have replaced their J motors with A13 and A15 motors. Still really old and authentic with less cost, more power, and real durability. The last NOS Judson I saw was asking about $1500 and that was years ago. Maybe a Torquestorm or such could be made to fit but it hardly fits the '50s look. Dennis
  5. DHale_510

    Ever have a strut gland back off?

    Yes I have had this problem. It was apparently caused by a strut insert that was a bit short. I "shimmed" the assembly with a couple of washers so a full thread or more was visible at the nut and never had it happen again. I presume that the strut insert was hammering" the nut a bit like an impact wrench. Dennis
  6. DHale_510

    R160 diff limit

    I have run 300hp in a welded up one without trouble with the differential. The rest of the package was trouble though. I have run over 200.000 miles, about 1/3 on track, on a factory LSD one without trouble. I have run over 500K miles on a stock one behind a 100hp L 16 with mostly sticky tires. Any tire you can put under a 510 fender will not overstress a R160. A LSD will more than double the strength of a R160. Welding one is not a LSD and likely will shorten its life. Maybe the question is vague, maybe a R160 is pretty strong. Dennis
  7. DHale_510

    Mazda rx7 rear end

    The attraction of the RX7 differential is usually the clutch LSD, disc brakes, and the 4 x 4 1/2" bolt pattern. Unfortunately few RX7s came with these. The relatively rare '85 and '86 GSLSE models were the only ones like this. They were coil sprung instead of leaf sprung so all the mounts are different. and they were wider wheel base than the older Datsuns. They are not really bargain garage find parts, but they work very well is you can adapt them. I think all the 620s had 6 bolt wheels so not even that part works. Dennis
  8. DHale_510

    Is Go Kart steering possible

    Gokarts and formula open wheel type racecars owe much of their immediate steering feel to light weight and roll centers at the same point as their center of gravities. They do not lean before turning. I doubt you can achieve either with a 510, I've certainly tried but only gotten close. But then neither of those have our wonderful lift throttle oversteer to enjoy. Sometimes it all equalizes out.... Dennis
  9. DHale_510

    V8 swap

    Another way of looking at the cooling problem is air flow. The stock radiator and mounting has good airflow for about 100 hp. Your V8 is about three times this, so it needs about three times as much radiator AND three times as much air flow. The grille area is not likely big enough for this, and you can not cut away so much that the front suspension gets weak. so the seemingly silly in the bed [or even roof] option starts to make sense. Otherwise either lots of airflow boosting fans [mechanical ones almost always move more air than electrical ones] or very special aerodynamic tricks like fancy race cars use. Dennis
  10. DHale_510

    Mikuni vs Weber

    The installed venturis are more relevant then the Mikuni vs weber question. It is usually best on a street car to have slightly smaller venturis than intake valves. You get the widest power band this way. I have also found the Webers tune easier on smaller motors, Mikunis on larger ones, and the Mikunis have fewer expensive parts to tune, but are harder to find. Usually the Mikuni manifolds have better throttle linkage than Canons. SUs are always easier and cheaper, generally work fine once set and not fiddled with. Webers are pretty much the opposite. Dennis
  11. DHale_510

    L20b u67 head

    Now he needs to understand that the lash pads come in many thicknesses and are critical to the assembly. They need to allow a centered wipe pattern on the rocker to keep them from cutting into the cam. They change with a reground cam, resurfaced rockers [this avoids the mismatched confusion trouble], reset valve seats, replaced valves, resurfaced heads, and maybe just wear. The poster started with a problem of a missing lash pad and these problems were never addressed. If your machine shop doesn't understand lash pads and thinks the threaded adjuster is there to make all of these adjustments [like Chevy], you need another machine shop that knows Datsuns and Mercedes. Stoffergren maybe knows this better than anyone else on this list. He has setup several heads for me in the past. Trust him. Dennis
  12. DHale_510

    Steering box brace - any good?

    My old low buck steering box fix was a Mazda RX4 reinforcing plate. It is about 1/4"" thick, mounts on the wheel side of the wall and fits perfectly. I suppose old RX4s are pretty rare now, but the plate was simply a flat piece. I made one for the Pink Car and welded it to the body. That car has seen a fair amount of use with no problems. Dennis
  13. DHale_510

    Short 510 front springs

    Bump steer spacers allow you to level the front control arm so the steering is in better alignment. A car with the steering arms at different angles from the control arms will have less accurate steering and less predictable handling. Maybe we really should have called them roll center correctors from the start.... but here we are. They also are needed to clear ZX calipers at half pad wear. The unsung problem with the rear end is toe correction. Any lowering of the rear ride height will cause toe out which will greatly affect the way the car handles, usually in a "bad" way. It will swing the back out much more quickly and wear tires much more quickly. It is hard to see and harder to correct and always there when the visible negative camber angles are there. This has destroyed more 510s than any other thing methinks.... The other problem with cutting springs is while the stiffness increases linearly with length [half a spring is twice as stiff]. the loss of load capacity is about twice as much. The car will bottom out much easier even though it is stiffer. Bottoming out just happens at the wrong time too, when you are going hard. Bottoming will overload the tire at this critical time and you will slide, skid, need a quick recovery. Bottoming is not too stiff, it is too soft. Most parts of the car are as unhappy about it as your passenger, and will leave you about as quickly. Dennis
  14. DHale_510

    Just wondering

    L motors like rather high temperatures, or at least what looks high. Maybe it's because the aluminum heads and temperature sensor location have much better heat conduction that the iron Fords of old. Also, 40 year old gauges and sensors are not exactly accurate and reliable. Most L motors today have too fast advance curves. This will cause higher temps and even preigntion. I have found that preignition or knock on my L20b first occurred at about 4500rpm, way above where I could hear it. This was found on a dyno with a sensor. The ideal curve turned out to be wider and slower than any factory combination so I had to engineer a special setup. My racer L18 with crazy compression and electronic crank fire was even more radical but it tuned nicely with the electronics instead of with mechanical springs and things. I think the L motors were designed for higher octane fuel and have rather high compressions, especially after a "rebuild" with a shaved head or flat top Z car piston upgrades. Dennis

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