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Montana Datsun Revival


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Still having fuel issue… Removed tank and cleaned pretty good just a small amount of surface rust in there now but overall pretty clean. Blew into pickup tube it’s not plugged or anything…

Used carb cleaner to blow out the lines and carb cleaner flowed out both ways.. replaced all the rubber lines with new.. put in 5 gallons of good gas cranked it over and it started right up fuel filter filled with gas all the way.. gas was really dirty in the filter but I figure that was just the carb cleaner spraying out the lines and running it would clear it up the rest of the way… went to start it a couple days later and now it’s hardly getting any fuel again and not starting… at this point I feel like it can only be some sort of plug in the fuel

line from rust or something, or a bad fuel pump. It’s odd that sometimes it gets gas fine then it will 100% without any warning stop getting gas and not run at all Thoughts? 

Edited by sick620
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Changed fuel pump still intermittently not getting gas. Maybe the fuel line is clogging ? I can’t see how if I was able to spray carb cleaner through the line.. maybe I just need to change out the hard line? 

Edited by sick620
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How are you determining that the pump is not pumping any gas? because it doesn't start??? Next time it won't start  pull a plug wire off and stick an old plug in the end. Lay on a grounded surface and try to start the engine. Got spark?

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Yeah definitely have spark and definitely not getting gas, you can see that the fuel filter is bone dry when it has the no start condition… it comes and goes running great then all of a sudden gets no gas, then you start it the next day or whatever and gets gas great… Removed tank and soaked in clr and pressure washed it has a little surface rust inside otherwise it’s pretty clean in there… sprayed fuel line back and forth but the first little bit of gas was pretty black when I put it together so maybe it’s just that fuel line intermittently is clogging?… when I put it back together it started right up, turned it off figured it was fixed, next day started it up to go to the gym and wouldn’t start at all no gas… thought it had to be fuel pump sometimes losing prime and not pumping but no that can’t be it..

 

was also thinking bad rubber line at tank with big air leak or something but now we have all new rubber lines…

Edited by sick620
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7 hours ago, sick620 said:

Yeah definitely have spark and definitely not getting gas, you can see that the fuel filter is bone dry when it has the no start condition… it comes and goes running great then all of a sudden gets no gas, then you start it the next day or whatever and gets gas great… Removed tank and soaked in clr and pressure washed it has a little surface rust inside otherwise it’s pretty clean in there… sprayed fuel line back and forth but the first little bit of gas was pretty black when I put it together so maybe it’s just that fuel line intermittently is clogging?… when I put it back together it started right up, turned it off figured it was fixed, next day started it up to go to the gym and wouldn’t start at all no gas… thought it had to be fuel pump sometimes losing prime and not pumping but no that can’t be it..

 

was also thinking bad rubber line at tank with big air leak or something but now we have all new rubber lines…

Maybe try bypassing everything for a moment just to test functionality...

 

Do you have anything to gravity feed the carburetor temporarily?

 

Then you could run the engine and see what the pump is doing .. 

Then use a temporary gas can and see if the pump feed the carburetor now, then move to the line and tank....

Basically isolating each system.. maybe even leave a secondary can attached over night and try restarting with that.... 

 

Have you tried spraying a little starter fluid when I doesnt start?

That might help get the fuel moving better.... 

 

Any idea how the pickup tube looks in the tank... mine was roached out and had pin holes in it .... 

 

 

 

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 If it was running, the carburetor should be full of gas. Even it you took the fuel pump off there will be more than enough to start the engine and drive a block.

 

The carburetor has a glass window on the front. Does gas show when starting?

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There’s no glass window in the Weber.. it’s a brand new Weber so I don’t think sticky needle and seat but maybe 🤔… carb issues wouldn’t cause the fuel filter to all of a sudden lose gas and show empty would it? I’m gonna try running off a gas can eliminate each part one at a time until i figure it out… pickup in tank looked to be in pretty good shape and it’s seemed clear unclogged when I cleaned everything..

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Again the float chamber should be full of gas from the last time it was used. This gas is more than enough to start even with the choke on and drive away. There's no way it can jump up through the needle valve and siphon back into the tank.

 

Next time it won't start right away take the air filter off and look into the carburetor and work the throttle. Does the accelerator pump squirt gas? it should.

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3 hours ago, sick620 said:

There’s no glass window in the Weber.. it’s a brand new Weber so I don’t think sticky needle and seat but maybe 🤔… carb issues wouldn’t cause the fuel filter to all of a sudden lose gas and show empty would it? I’m gonna try running off a gas can eliminate each part one at a time until i figure it out… pickup in tank looked to be in pretty good shape and it’s seemed clear unclogged when I cleaned everything..

If a new Weber I'd agree problem is probably not there.... 

 

I assume the filter drains due to gravity... 

I think I mentioned trying some starter fluid to help it prime again...

How new or old is the pump?

 

You could add an anti drain back valve before the filter to help keep fuel in the filter for startups,  but like Mike said there should be enough residual gas to restart and get the fuel flowing.. 

 

 

 

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Haven’t had time to diagnose…

 

but I went out and looked at it and now the fuel filter was full

of gas… tried starting it took a second for carb to fill them started up great… ran it

for 30 seconds and shut off looked at fuel filter and it was empty…

 

this is so weird because I run it out of gas carb and fuel line and all then it’s off and somehow it has gas in the filter from sitting… but then only run for a bit and it’s running out of gas in the line again.. I think a rust line is the best explanation but I don’t get it ..

Edited by sick620
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6 hours ago, sick620 said:

Haven’t had time to diagnose…

 

but I went out and looked at it and now the fuel filter was full

of gas… tried starting it took a second for carb to fill them started up great… ran it

for 30 seconds and shut off looked at fuel filter and it was empty…

 

this is so weird because I run it out of gas carb and fuel line and all then it’s off and somehow it has gas in the filter from sitting… but then only run for a bit and it’s running out of gas in the line again.. I think a rust line is the best explanation but I don’t get it ..

Is it possible the tank vent is blocked? 

 

Definitely a wierd situation....

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This phenomenon was very common in NJ when the state mandated MTBE in the fuel. Rubber gas lines would collapse when suction was applied.  Two of my cars also suffered from delaminated inner cores allowing no fuel to pass in one direction but fine in the other.  The hard lines were corroded in the low places constricting fuel flow.  One had a pin hole leak in the pickup tube in the tank which meant I was fine until the fuel level dropped to half a tank then I was getting only enough fuel to run at just above idle.  

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  • 5 weeks later...

We have this oil leak on the drivers side I’m assuming it’s coming from the timing cover, the corner where it meets the head and the block any ideas on sealing it without disassembly?

 

also I got the fuel issue resolved for now by bypassing factory line and running a rubber line all the way to tank…

 

 

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Edited by sick620
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With the fuel supply do you have enough rubber line to bypass the hard lines? I had similar issues filter had fuel after sitting but turned out my pickup was blocked...so pulled the tank and sorted but sounds like yours is okay.  The other is try a rubber line from a petrol container and see if that works okay.

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Updates:

Truck runs good with rubber line ran AL the way to tank. Still needs brakes replaced in front you have to double pump to stop, and clutch is only working if you press pedal half way down, so slave is still not in adjustment... Also clutch hydros must have a leak because it takes a while to get the clutch pumped up and working if it's Sat for a while...I'm wondering if some of these issues have to do with rusty hard lines (like our fuel line issue we were having)

 

We are way too excited probably but we got a matching bed trailer to tow behind it ☺️

 

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Edited by sick620
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01325311-2A8F-4607-91C1-C0A8FE2601ED.thumb.jpeg.96930da7d26ad1ab677db1e1e1bd1b32.jpeg

 

Most likely the valve cover gasket behind the thermostat and hard to see. Power wash the shit out of it and when dry rinse with brake cleaner. Check right away after running it.

 

Pumping the brakes means one of two things...

 

1/ there is still air in the lines or MC. Air compresses, brake fluid will not. You are squeezing air.

2/ the front and rear shoes are not adjusted up to the drums properly. Takes more than one pump to get the shoes against the drums.

 

Clutch...

 

Bleed the slave first. Fill the reservoir and keep an eye on it that it doesn't go dry. Pump pedal several times and hold. Loosen adjuster air bubbles and fluid should squirt out. Close adjuster and let pedal up. Repeat till only clear fluid comes out.

 

Now look at clutch pedal. Push on pedal with thumb. It should move easily about 1/16-1/8 inch before resistance increases.

 

Now check the push rod clearance on the clutch arm. Should be 1/16 inch of looseness. Adjust as needed and tighten lock nut.

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On 8/24/2022 at 2:25 PM, datzenmike said:

01325311-2A8F-4607-91C1-C0A8FE2601ED.thumb.jpeg.96930da7d26ad1ab677db1e1e1bd1b32.jpeg

 

Most likely the valve cover gasket behind the thermostat and hard to see. Power wash the shit out of it and when dry rinse with brake cleaner. Check right away after running it.

 

Pumping the brakes means one of two things...

 

1/ there is still air in the lines or MC. Air compresses, brake fluid will not. You are squeezing air.

2/ the front and rear shoes are not adjusted up to the drums properly. Takes more than one pump to get the shoes against the drums.

 

Clutch...

 

Bleed the slave first. Fill the reservoir and keep an eye on it that it doesn't go dry. Pump pedal several times and hold. Loosen adjuster air bubbles and fluid should squirt out. Close adjuster and let pedal up. Repeat till only clear fluid comes out.

 

Now look at clutch pedal. Push on pedal with thumb. It should move easily about 1/16-1/8 inch before resistance increases.

 

Now check the push rod clearance on the clutch arm. Should be 1/16 inch of looseness. Adjust as needed and tighten lock nut.

 

Regarding leak. It is definitely not coming from valve cover gasket. And definitely coming from either head gasket or timing cover where it meets the head gasket 

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Sorry about sideways photos I'll edit later from a pc... Cut off anything I could to make it as light as possible, still need to take the drum brakes off of it. Going to mount a cargo carrier to the top of the bed rails and bolt down a cooler to the front,,

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Edited by sick620
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31 minutes ago, sick620 said:

 

Regarding leak. It is definitely not coming from valve cover gasket. And definitely coming from either head gasket or timing cover where it meets the head gasket 

 

It's possibly the head gasket as the only place this can easily happen is around the timing chain.

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Ok it does look like it may be leaking from valve cover.. it seems like it barely leaking so I don’t know how it’s looking so bad on the side of the block but this is the only place that looks moist after spraying everything down with brake clean.. thank god. Was afraid I put something back together wrong or head was warped or something.. 

7884116B-2CBA-4272-BE31-3243AFEA9386.jpeg

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