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Advice please


Toneloc521

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That throttle return spring setup is special. 

 

You should set the timing at idle with the vacuum advance disconnected. The vacuum timing only comes into play at cruising speeds at part throttle. It advances the timing about 5 degrees to help with efficiency when you're holding a steady speed. At low speeds and wide open throttle, there isn't enough vacuum to get it to actuate, so it doesn't do anything during those conditions.

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1 hour ago, Toneloc521 said:

Should I replace the vacuum advance?

 

Take the vacuum advance hose off and suck on the end while watching the rotor with the cap off. It should turn clockwise about an inch??? whatever. Hold the vacuum with your tongue over the end. The rotor should not return until you release the vacuum. If you have this it can be assumed that the vacuum advance is working.

 

 

06A0C7A0-8E0E-4FC4-AAC4-7947D1BD7242.thu

 

This is an absolutely terrible return spring set up. The spring should be in line with the throttle cable pull and should be no larger (stiffer) than needed to return the throttle plate to idle. Anything else will gring the throttle plate bushings away.

 

 

 

57 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

That throttle return spring setup is special. 

 

You should set the timing at idle with the vacuum advance disconnected. The vacuum timing only comes into play at cruising speeds at part throttle. It advances the timing about 5 degrees to help with efficiency when you're holding a steady speed. At low speeds and wide open throttle, there isn't enough vacuum to get it to actuate, so it doesn't do anything during those conditions.

 

Vacuum advance is ported above the throttle plate so if the idle is set properly, and it should be so that centrifugal advance is not messing your timing settings, there will be NO vacuum advance. Idle for the 521 is 600-650. Not sure when centrifugal advance starts so set not much higher than 750. All carburetors since the late '60s use ported vacuum advance for emissions purposes. 

 

Once timing is set, connect or disconnect the hose and there should be no change in timing either way. Above idle the throttle plate lifts up to the vacuum advance port above it and begins sending a vacuum signal to the distributor. There are 9 to 11 degrees advance @ 14.5 to 16.5 inches of mercury vacuum on a '71 distributor. Vacuum advance is load dependent. The more you step on the gas the less there the vacuum signal, the less the  advance. 

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8 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

Take the vacuum advance hose off and suck on the end while watching the rotor with the cap off. It should turn clockwise about an inch??? whatever. Hold the vacuum with your tongue over the end. The rotor should not return until you release the vacuum. If you have this it can be assumed that the vacuum advance is working.

 

 

06A0C7A0-8E0E-4FC4-AAC4-7947D1BD7242.thu

 

This is an absolutely terrible return spring set up. The spring should be in line with the throttle cable pull and should be no larger (stiffer) than needed to return the throttle plate to idle. Anything else will gring the throttle plate bushings away.

 

 

 

 

Vacuum advance is ported above the throttle plate so if the idle is set properly, and it should be so that centrifugal advance is not messing your timing settings, there will be NO vacuum advance. Idle for the 521 is 600-650. Not sure when centrifugal advance starts so set not much higher than 750. All carburetors since the late '60s use ported vacuum advance for emissions purposes. 

 

Once timing is set, connect or disconnect the hose and there should be no change in timing either way. Above idle the throttle plate lifts up to the vacuum advance port above it and begins sending a vacuum signal to the distributor. There are 9 to 11 degrees advance @ 14.5 to 16.5 inches of mercury vacuum on a '71 distributor. Vacuum advance is load dependent. The more you step on the gas the less there the vacuum signal, the less the  advance. 

So going back to the throttle spring are we talking the small one hooked up to the throttle or the black bigger spring? The black one hooked up there has an arm

on it but it is stiff 

Edited by Toneloc521
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we almost need to start over whats the proplem???? NOW

 

you have 2 set of points and hopefully you put the correct wire back in the orginal spots.

I thought the bIG condenser is the main points and should be a blk red wire and the 2nd condenser is blk yel or yel black.  I MIGHT BE WRONG ON THIS but that what I had when I had  2 set of points. YOUR PHOTO show the blk/yel on the main set of points and a BLUE wire on the 2nd set of points. WHER does this BLUE wire go?????????  Maybe you got them reversed BUT maybe that was my 510 colors, Cause I see the dist CLOCKED HARD to one side on the timming plate also

anyway you only need 1 set(with the bigger condenser) to run the truck anyways I never used the second set and didn't use the blk/yellow wire. I switch to a Pertronix ignition and don't use any of those now.

 

You GAP the points????????  if there is NO SPARK

 

Since this is a weber carb did you cycle the gas linkage and see if gas is squirting in there?????????? If not then you don't have fuel in the carb

 

You poull the center coil wire from the dist cap and place near ground like a bolt asnd see if it spark when you trying to start the truck?  IF Yes then your fine. If not then you got a point issue or no power to the coil  or a HOT start issue

 

 

a BAD vacuum advance is not going to cause a NO START

 

 

this is a SIMPLE FIX

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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8 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

we almost need to start over whats the proplem???? NOW

 

you have 2 set of points and hopefully you put the correct wire back in the orginal spots.

I thought the bIG condenser is the main points and should be a blk red wire and the 2nd condenser is blk yel or yel black.  I MIGHT BE WRONG ON THIS but that what I had when I had  2 set of points. YOUR PHOTO show the blk/yel on the main set of points and a BLUE wire on the 2nd set of points. WHER does this BLUE wire go?????????  Maybe you got them reversed BUT maybe that was my 510 colors, Cause I see the dist CLOCKED HARD to one side on the timming plate also

anyway you only need 1 set(with the bigger condenser) to run the truck anyways I never used the second set and didn't use the blk/yellow wire. I switch to a Pertronix ignition and don't use any of those now.

 

You GAP the points????????  if there is NO SPARK

 

Since this is a weber carb did you cycle the gas linkage and see if gas is squirting in there?????????? If not then you don't have fuel in the carb

 

You poull the center coil wire from the dist cap and place near ground like a bolt asnd see if it spark when you trying to start the truck?  IF Yes then your fine. If not then you got a point issue or no power to the coil  or a HOT start issue

 

 

a BAD vacuum advance is not going to cause a NO START

 

 

this is a SIMPLE FIX

 

9DE54FC0-BB91-41D6-91F2-CE9AC49E4D66.jpegYou talking about this wire? If so this wire goes now where literally just hanging out there i am doing the work this weekend

Edited by Toneloc521
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